Bald Nomad (original) (raw)
Well… how did I get here?
David Byrne was 28 when he recorded “Once in a Lifetime.” 28 seems like a lifetime ago. I guess it was. A lot has happened in the last 12 years. My friends from then are married, some now divorced, most have kids. I made new friends, lost touch with others. I guess that’s the story of life. Maybe the story of my life is told in song lyrics. My high school yearbook quote was “what a long, strange trip it’s been.” That really was a lifetime ago, but I was oddly prescient.
Today is the 5-year anniversary of my Grand Experiment. I had bought a one-way ticket to Australia, to see about a girl, but more than that, to see about life. Computer screens and adjustable chairs, air conditioning and fast food, my life had stagnated. Often I’d wonder, if something happened, how many days would it be before someone found my body. When day-to-day the only people I spoke to were those who served me food, the answer was: many.
It was, and is, the best decision I’ve ever made. A high-speed off-ramp in the inevitable sad course of my life. It didn’t go the way I’d wanted at the time, but it turned out the way I needed.
I can’t believe that was 5 years ago. Time compresses as you age. That seems like the day before yesterday. Yesterday, though, I was lying in a hospital bed. Wait, no, that was 2017. Doped up on dilaudid and feeling every bit like someone had scooped out my insides for a looksee, I had the introspection anyone would in that moment. High as fuck and fading in and out of consciousness, I had a serious talk with myself.
“Geoff,” I said.
“Yes, Geoff?”
“This dilaudid is legit. Absolute magical shit.”
“Yes, Geoff, but that’s not the point.”
“Purple is a funny word.”
“Stop it.”
“Tastes like cinnamon.”
“Dude, come on.”
“This could have been it.”
“I know.”
I realized three things lying on a drip in that bed. The first is obvious, that life is a fluke and one moment you could be eating a cookie, the next you’re getting cut from stem to sternum as surgeons frantically try to stop your artery from detonating. YOLO!
The second thing I’ve talked about before, and it’s the satisfying answer most people like to hear. That I looked at what I was doing with my life, and thought, yeah, let’s keep doing that. You see, I’d had my crisis of existence in 2013. My offramp had taken me through Australia, and then on to the world. There were ups and downs, but mostly ups, fewer downs, and I’m far happier today than I was then. Happiness is not a choice. Fuck that insidious bullshit. Happiness is a journey. You need to figure out how to be as happy as possible, as much as possible. If that means medication, so be it. If that means exercise or travel or puppies, go for it. If you’re not hurting others or yourself in the long run, fucking do it. You’re the only one who can figure that out.
The third thing I realized, or at least thought about more, I haven’t talked about. It’s not great but it does tie this all together. You see, I drove myself to the hospital. My life, like everyone’s, is a series of decisions. The decisions I’ve made, starting with the one to move to LA, have resulted in me having the pieces of an externally-amazing life. The house, the shiny cars, the months of travel. It’s a life that seems to instill Facebook jealousy and Instagram envy. But it is also a solitary one. When it came down to that moment on the cliff over the abyss, I was alone.
Except… I’m not. I did drive myself to the hospital, but only because my friend and roommate had gone out that night. The following days were filled with visitors of friends and family. Messages from all over the world flooded in and made me feel more loved than I could have imagined. My LA friends are my family, and I talk to my parents all the time and see them several times a year. I talk to my best friend so often that the physical distance between us is irrelevant. I don’t have the traditional family, of the wife and 1.9 kids, but so be it. That’s not the path my life took.
My sister-from-another-mister Lauren has an oft-repeated joke: In everything, Geoff is the exception. I like it, and as often as not, it’s true. I have a truly peculiar life. It’s unlike anything I would have imagined, and unlike anyone else’s I’ve met. It’s not perfect, but for the first time I can truly say…
I love it.
50 down, 150+ to go
Last year I explored my 50th country. I doubt I’ll see them all. This isn’t pessimism, it’s just not how I travel. I’m not travelling to tick boxes off a list (though I do love ticking boxes on lists). While in Japan last summer I had a deep conversation with Lauren, via Messenger across an ocean, as one does.
I think she was trying to figure out, or perhaps help me figure out, why I spent so much time travelling. The TV show answer is that I was running from something, but that’s not it. I suppose an argument could be made that instead I was looking for something. Or at least, I was.
I think the reality is less dramatic. I’m content at home, I’m content on the road. I have good days at home, and good days on the road. But I think I have more great days on the road. So why not do that? Her questions got me thinking, though, as I’m sure she intended. What did I get out of so much travel?
You can see a million miles tonight, but you can’t get very far.
The truth, as best I could figure it, is rather simple, but also rather odd. I’m searching for what life could be. I want to sit in that magical place where the food is always good, your friends are always around, and tomorrow is the beginning of a new adventure. More than anything else, I think this explains why I travel, and even where.
This magical place, of course, doesn’t exist outside the ends of comedies and the beginning of tragedies. However, I can explore pieces of it. I can spend a few days or a week with a friend in their city, eat, drink, and be merry, and leave before we’re all bored. I can do that again in a different city, and then I can meet new friends in a new city and do it all over again. All the while, talk every day with my friends back home. Then after a few months on the road, I head home and spend time with my amazing friends there. Pieces of greatness to add up to a greater whole. Maybe I just wanna see some palm trees.
I suppose the argument could be made that this isn’t particularly healthy. PG-13 hedonism. A Disneyfied version of life. Except… why not? I’m more successful in my job now than I was when I first started, I have more friends, more good days, far more great days, and far fewer bad days than I ever have. It is, I’ll grant you, a pretty bizarre life. But as far as I can tell, it’s working. I’m not diminishing my long term for the short term. The reality is, I have stronger relationships and friendships now than I did 5 years ago.
Maybe in 5 years I’ll have a different answer. Maybe I would be more content with the wife, kids, and picket fence. I have no idea. I think the only reason I’m curious about that is it seems it’s what everyone else does, despite a lot of people really hating it. That’s not a judgement, just an observation. I see that life like I imagine someone who thinks they might be allergic to shellfish sees oysters. Could those be a satisfying treat, or anaphylactic shock. We may never know…
I certainly have no idea if my life would work for anyone else. I’m not advertising it as such either. I cringe whenever someone says, I assume as some sort of compliment, they “want my life.” No, I don’t think you do. You want parts of my life, just as I want parts of yours.
Because no one has it all. That’s a myth. Everyone has pieces of the magical place. At least, I hope you do. That’s as much as I’ve figured out in my 40 years and 50 countries. You have to figure out what works for you. If you’re not happy, figure out how to get happy, whatever that means to you. Or to be more specific, do whatever you can to be as happy as possible, as much as possible. This crazy Grand Adventure worked for me. I hope you can find what works for you, if you haven’t already.
And wherever that adventure leads you, I hope we can meet up along the way.
]]> Taiwan http://baldnomad.com/taiwan/ Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:51:31 +0000 http://baldnomad.com/?p=1398 #50
Taiwan was my 50th country, and what a wonderful surprise. Well, maybe surprise isn’t exactly the right word. It’s not like I had negative expectations of Taiwan. If anything, I expected it to be lovely. I’d been told by a few people that Taiwan was great, with friendly people and cheap, delicious food.
If anything, they undersold it.
Taipei from Taipei 101
First, the people. In all the countries I’ve visited in my life, Taiwan has the friendliest people. Consistently and repeatedly I’d be greeted with a smile. Consistently and repeatedly people would go out of their way to help. A great example, at a night market some locals offered up what they were eating for me to try, unasked!
Ping, who worked at the hostel I stayed at (more on that later), even offered to give me a ride on her scooter, out of her way, and turned it into a rapid tour of downtown Taipei. Zooooom.
Min, born in China, grew up in HK, and was in Taiwan for film school, brought me to a Cantonese noodle place with the spiciest noodles I’ve ever had. I was sweating. A lot. It was good.
Look at all the crushed red pepper! Spiciest thing I’ve ever eaten.
There was just a pervasive attitude of “Hey, welcome to our country! Thanks for coming, isn’t it great!” Any place at any hour I always felt safe.
It’s a country of 23.5 million people, in a space the size of Maine. Though it’s the 17th most densely populated country, it doesn’t feel it. Busy, sure, but not crowded.
In many ways, Taipei feels like a smaller Japanese city, in its extensive and modern infrastructure and controlled hustle and bustle, just without the endless skyscrapers of Tokyo. Well, with one notable exception:
There are two things I can’t handle well: stairs and humidity. This hike had an abundance of both. Worth it for this shot, and a few more I’ll be using for an upcoming CNET story on Taipei 101.
71 Likes, 3 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “There are two things I can’t handle well: stairs and humidity. This hike had an abundance of both….”
Taipei 101: We went 390m/1280ft above Taiwan to check out one of the world’s tallest buildings
For six years it was the tallest building in the world, and today it stands as an iconic symbol of Taiwan. Not only is it known for its unique design and incredible New Year’s Eve fireworks display, the tower is also the world’s largest LEED-certified Platinum building — that’s the highest level on the US Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design scale.
There are definitely commercial ties to the US and Japan, more so than say, Hong Kong, whose ties to Britain are unmistakable. These countries are probably coming to mind the most perhaps because I visited them directly after and before, but I the comparisons are probably valid.
Cool doggo
Thanks to some fascinating history, Taiwan is the most populous country not in the UN.
Explore the abandoned UFO houses of Taiwan
As the sound of the bus fades, I’m left with silence. The kind of quiet only heat, humidity, and abandoned places can create. Before me is an entrance fit for the elite: multiple lanes approach arching gates. Behind, a tree-lined avenue heads toward the sea. Except instead of a grand, flowing thoroughfare, there’s urban decomposition.
Then there’s the food.
Did you know Mongolian BBQ is neither Mongolian, nor BBQ. It’s Taiwanese, using essentially the Japanese teppanyaki style of cooking. Ever heard of the 85 Degrees Bakery Cafe or the great dim sum of Din Tai Fung? Also Taiwanese. The Taiwanese have a sweeter tooth than most other Asian countries, which if you’re like me, means the food is awesome.
Night markets offer incredible variety of freshly cooked food, and you’ll be stuffed for just a few dollars.
Night market food. Amazing mango smoothie, and the delicious peanut ice cream roll in process and about to be eaten.
Fried sweet potato balls, shredded pork and sweet potato balls, mango smoothies to blow your mind, seared and seasoned strips of beef… so much goodness. Probably my favorite delight is a peanut ice cream roll, which is basically an ice cream burrito. Ice cream cream or sorbet with peanut brittle shavings in a wrap. Bonkers good.
I think my favorite was tiny place across from the hostel. It was run by a husband and wife, with a grandma and a kiddo hanging out too. I devoured, on several occasions, a noodle bowl with a spicy sesame sauce and crushed peanuts. Oh my yum. With a Coke, it was about $2.50.
Noodles!
And lastly, the hostel. Without question one of the best I’ve been to. Top 5 out of the 100+ I’ve stayed at. That certainly helps for the love of a city and country. Star Hostel is walking distance to the main train station, and comprises the top two floors of a building on a side street. Spotlessly clean, and for about 15anightyougetacomfybedinadormroom.For15 a night you get a comfy bed in a dorm room. For 15anightyougetacomfybedinadormroom.For40, you can get a better private room than most hotels I’ve stayed at.
How’s THAT for a common room? On the right, the single, for $40 a night. The glass on the right is the beautiful shower.
They also have a great free breakfast. Can’t wait to go back.
Looking for No Face at the Spirited Away bathhouse. Regardless if Jiufen was the inspiration for the town in the film, it LOOKS a whole lot like the town from the film. From the tremendous amounts and varieties of food available on the old street, to the narrow alleyways and tunnels, to the many, many, MANY stairs, being here is like being transported into the movie. You’re also, unexpectedly, almost always hearing Japanese too, since that’s where most of the tourists are from. Crowded, but the delicious eats make up for it.
62 Likes, 4 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Looking for No Face at the Spirited Away bathhouse. Regardless if Jiufen was the inspiration for…”
And go back I shall. I ended up spending just shy of two weeks in Taiwan, as I realized early that I wanted to come back and take my time exploring. Once I’d decided that, it was easy to just sit back and relax in Taipei, since I didn’t need to rush to see everything.
So I’m thinking Spring. Who wants to join me?
The eerie decay of the Wanli Futuro houses. An amazing place. Check out my CNET story about them: bit.ly/UFOHouses
116 Likes, 6 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “The eerie decay of the Wanli Futuro houses. An amazing place. Check out my CNET story about them:…”
57 as of 2020!
]]> 50 Country Countdown: Part 2 http://baldnomad.com/50-country-countdown-part-2/ Sat, 28 Jul 2018 20:12:54 +0000 http://baldnomad.com/?p=1348 The Adventure Continues…
If you read Part 1, you know what’s coming in Part 2, namely, mooooore!
But first, a quick word about counting counties. There’s no specific way to do this. My criteria to claim I’ve “visited” a country is leaving the airport. Driving or riding through via train both count. I suppose there’s a grey area there if you travel through a country at night, have you really seen it? That hasn’t come up and I doubt it will, but these are the things I think about. If you’re on the ground and see it, that counts in my book. Maybe you haven’t seen it well, but that’s a different conversation.
As far as what counts as a country, well that’s actually an interesting question. There isn’t a generally accepted answer. Personally I count the entity that interacts with other countries, the “country” (i.e. a “sovereign state“). So, for example, Hong Kong and Wales aren’t “countries” by this definition, even though many country tracker apps and even some websites call them as such. Which is to say, count it however you want, this is how I’ve counted mine.
Anyway, lets get on with it.
24: Singapore
The foooood. At an open-air food market I got 3 cha siu bao and a sweet corn sponge thing and it was one of the best meals I’ve had, and it was about $2.
23: Malaysia
I wasn’t a huge fan of Malaysia, at least the part between Singapore and Thailand that I saw.
24: Thailand
Thailand, however, is awesome. The food was amazing, the landscape is amazing, the people are lovely, what a delight.
I had a huge delicious meal, on the beach at sunset, with some beverages, for about $7.
23: Ireland
The otherworldly Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. Most of the basalt columns are hexagonal and all were formed 50-60 million years ago. Or it was built by a giant named Finn MacCool. Either way, it’s an amazing place I got to visit in the summer of 2014 with some delightful Northern Irish friends. Oh, and there is 0 chance of getting weather like this AND no crowds. I may have photoshopped out a few (hundred) people. Other fun (to me) fact: my first Instagram picture ever was the opposite angle from this, but 6 months later and MUCH colder.
96 Likes, 7 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “The otherworldly Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. Most of the basalt columns are hexagonal and…”
Another gorgeous country with gorgeous people. My first visit to the island was to meet up with the sisters Cully in Northern Ireland, who I’d met in Australia. I then headed down to Dublin and had a fantastic night out with Rachael, Paddy, and Claire, who I’d met in Melbourne.
And while a road trip around the entire country with Thaynara was awesome, that’s not the standout moment for me.
My parents were doing a roadtrip of their own in the fall of 2016, and I conspired with my dad to surprise my mom. As far as she knew, I was in Vienna and heading to Japan. Instead, I flew into Dublin the day after they arrived. Dad told me the pub they were at, and yep, I sure surprised her. It was awesome.
Not the pub in question, but this photo’s cuter.
Easily one of the best moments of the year.
22: Monaco
No big stories from Monaco. It’s a tiny country with ridiculous wealth, but very beautiful.
I visited while staying in Nice with those lovely people.
21: San Merino
The first night I met Thaynara, in London, she invited me to stay with her in Florence, which I of course did. After a few weeks in France, I came back, we ate more food, I cooked a dinner that didn’t poison us so I consider it a win, and then I headed to the tiny land-locked country of San Merino.
San Marino: Castles on a Hill
The country of San Marino is completely surrounded by Italy. Like Monaco, you could walk from one side of the country to the other in an afternoon. Why visit this 3rd smallest country in Europe? Well, look at that view!
It’s one of two countries completely surrounded by Italy, and it’s predominantly a mountain with a castle on top. Beautiful castle, beautiful views, and best of all, if you pay the tourist center 5 euros, they give you stamp and sticker for your passport!
20: Brazil
Country #30 and continent #6!
Brasil Aventura
The first stop was the hospital. On a ninety minute layover in Panama, I found some free WiFi, and got this message: “I’m hospitalized.” My friend Thaynara, who I met last year in London, traveled with before, and was heading to visit, had gone from bad to worse and been admitted to the hospital.
I can’t talk about Brazil without talking about Thaynara, my oft mentioned BFF. We met in London in 2014 and just clicked. Well, we clicked after I convinced her jetlagged self to have a drink with me at the hostel bar. We are both glad she relented. Many adventures have transpired since, including Italy (4 times), Ireland, and a half a dozen other countries, most notably her home, Brasilia, Brazil. My life is immeasurably better with her in it.
The National Congress Building, #brasilia #brazil. #travel #oscarniemeyer #sunset
29 Likes, 4 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “The National Congress Building, #brasilia #brazil. #travel #oscarniemeyer #sunset”
As a fan of mid-century architecture, Brasilia might as well be Mecca. Oscar Niemeyer, Lucio Costa, and Roberto Marx designed the entire city, bringing it fully formed from their minds out of the red soil from nothing. The result is a cohesive aesthetic unlike any place in the world.
Sméagol is a good puppers.
Spending time with Thaynara and Sméagol were wonderful, of course.
One of us loves the hammock.
But if I had to single out a specific moment, it’d be this:
Festa Brasileira
The party explodes from the darkness like a joyous firework filled with food and music. Dark dirt roads had stretched for miles. Suddenly, this. Hats and dresses. Lights and colors. Twirling and dancing and singing. A twelve string. An accordion. Voices singing harmonies with words everyone knows but I never will.
17: Spain
Impossible to take a bad photo in this place. The ceiling of the #sagradafamilia.
21 Likes, 3 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Impossible to take a bad photo in this place. The ceiling of the #sagradafamilia.”
Spain. Oh Spain. I had no expectations when I first visited, but now it’s one of my favorite countries. The food of course, with the brilliance of tapas cementing my love for small amounts of a wide variety of foods. The people are lovely, the scenery is incredible, and every moment I’ve spent in this country I’ve enjoyed. This year I did a short tour of the north, San Sebastian and Bilbao to be specific. Good, but I enjoyed the south way more.
The view from Ronda
My first trip to Spain, in 2015, I traveled from Seville to Grenada, before heading south to Gibraltar. Those two Spanish cities are magical in their own right, but in between is one of my favorite places on Earth: Ronda.
The view OF Ronda… and the Puente Nuevo
Perched on adjacent mesas, the small town is joined by an ancient bridge and overlooks the farmland below. It’s like something out of a movie. One of the short list of places I’ve been where I expected to stay for a day or so, and ended up staying a week.
I went back last year with Thaynara and enjoyed it just as much. Don’t miss it. Ronda, and southern Spain, are magic.
The incredible and highly photogenic Court of the Myrtles at #Alhambra in #granada, #spain. #travel #travelphotography #reflections
42 Likes, 10 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “The incredible and highly photogenic Court of the Myrtles at #Alhambra in #granada, #spain. #travel…”
16: Andorra
I love tiny counties, and this is one of the smallest in the world. Surrounded by the Pyrenees, bordered by France and Spain, Andorra is landlocked and, surprisingly, not a member of the European Union. The capital, Andorra la Vella, seems to be set up as a shopping destination. I assume the taxes are less since it’s not in the EU.
That said, the people are just as friendly as the Spanish, so it was a nice side-adventure during my first Spanish trip.
15: Portugal
Lovely Lisbon. A beautiful hillside and seaside city where I have been offered drugs more often in a few days than in my entire life combined. If you go, stay at the Home hostel. Gorgeous inside, with delicious home-cooked meals. I met Maria and Danielle there, who are both so lovely. I just wish I’d discovered the Time Out food pavilion before my last night. All the best restaurants in the city have permanent food stalls there, and holy shit is it amazing.
Exploring the incredible coastal caves and grottos of the Algarve coast.
77 Likes, 3 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Exploring the incredible coastal caves and grottos of the Algarve coast.”
Thaynara and I hit up Faro and Lagos on the southern coast last year, which definitely wasn’t bad.
14: Chile
I had big plans for Chile. 10 days into what would have been 2 months, this happened:
Unintended Interstitial and the Torment of Lost Time
I heard both of the bones in my lower leg break. I didn’t know that at the time, of course. Two pops not much louder than the cracking of a joint. It would be a few days before I got x-rays, but it marked the end of my adventure.
I just wish it had happened before I spent thousands on tickets to Easter Island and Brazil. Oh well. I got most of it back thanks to travel insurance.
13: Greece
After hearing about Greece from my former boss Maureen for years, I finally made it in 2016. Wow. She did not oversell it. Waters every shade of blue and turquoise, white sand and stone, incredible food and friendly people.
This place is just ridiculous. #greece #greece
#mykonos #sea #mediterranean #travel #travelphotography #waves #water #chill #beach #blueskies #bluesky #turquoise #turquoisewater
40 Likes, 3 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “This place is just ridiculous. #greece #greece
The islands of Greece and the mainland of Greece are radically different. The islands, flush with tourist money, feel modern, well-off, and healthy. The mainland of Greece is the opposite. Vast areas of aging infrastructure, borderline poverty, and every bit the country that’s had so many financial issues in the last decade.
One more from Santorini. The town of Oia. This place was absolutely incredible.#greece #greece
32 Likes, 5 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “One more from Santorini. The town of Oia. This place was absolutely incredible.#greece #greece
Both, however, are gorgeous. Thaynara and I visited Mykonos and Milos, then after a few days in Athens, I headed back out for a few days on Naxos and Santorini. Of that bunch, I’d rate them Milos, Mykonos, Naxos, then Santorini, but all were great and really it just depends what you’re looking for. Santorini was a blast especially, buzzing around the island on a rented ATV with Karine, a French Canadian I met at the hostel.
My best moment from here, though, was in the north. The town of Meteora, where I met the fascinating and talented Amy from Arizona. I met Americans in the randomest of places. This place though, wow. It’s where I got to explore the wonders of the precipitously perched monasteries of Meteora. I’d wanted to see them ever since I saw For Your Eyes Only.
From James Bond to Game of Thrones, the impossible and incredible monasteries of Meteora, Greece
The karst rises from the flatland as if escaping the underworld, violently forced up by something down there. The truth is the opposite. The stark, imposing rocks are what’s left after millions of years of weathering take its toll on the surrounding land.
12: Croatia
Croatia is another one that’s tough to nail down a single great moment: Staying in a hostel that’s a train, hanging out in Zagreb with my Dad and then meeting his Croatian friends, meeting up with Christina, a friend from home, in the gorgeous Hvar.
Nearly sunset in Hvar. This town is very photogenic. #croatia #hvar #sunset #port #boats #sea #mediterranean #travel #travelphotography #water #castle #view #scenic #croatia
#HR #islands #island #oldtown #hrvatska #europe #bluesky #fortress #adriatic #adriaticsea #dalmatiancoast
42 Likes, 7 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Nearly sunset in Hvar. This town is very photogenic. #croatia #hvar #sunset #port #boats #sea…”
Exploring the ancient cities of Split and Dubrovnik, land of Game of Thrones, was absolutely a highlight.
From King’s Landing to the Iron Isles: Game of Thrones locations in the real world
King’s Landing, Dorne, the Iron Isles and the North; all these ” Game of Thrones ” locations are scattered around our real world. Croatia, Spain, Northern Ireland and more are all stand-ins for the lands of Westeros. Most of the places where the show was shot are pretty easy to get to.
But it has to be meeting up and camping with Mary, after not seeing each other for nearly two years. Catching up over beers and a campfire, good times.
My favorite story involving a Croatian, however, was in Byron Bay. A guy my age I’d met at the hostel shouted at me “You are one crazy motherfucker!” At the time I happened to be dancing on a table in a bar. Best compliment I’ve ever received.
11: Bosnia and Herzegovina
Another unexpected gem. Sometimes all I need as an excuse to visit someplace is proximity and a cool picture opportunity. In this case, the Stari Most bridge in Mostar. Since it was more or less on the way to Dubrovnik from Split, this seemed like an easy excursion.
This is the Blagaj Tekija (or Tekke), near Mostar, Bosnia. It’s a 600 year old Dervish monastery located at the base of a cliff and next to a spring that’s the source of the river Buna. It was as peaceful as it looks. #blagaj #blagajtekija #tekke #dervish #monastery #mostar #bosnia #bosniaandherzegovina #bosniaandherzegovina
#balkans #europe #travel #travelphotography #mountains #river #peaceful #serene #cliff #buna #littlewaterfall #chill
66 Likes, 5 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “This is the Blagaj Tekija (or Tekke), near Mostar, Bosnia. It’s a 600 year old Dervish monastery…”
Wow. First of all, the people are incredibly friendly. Friendlier by far than any of the surrounding countries (which isn’t to say they aren’t, just that the Bosnians are more so). Second, the food is incredible. You wouldn’t think the cuisine would vary much between Croatia, Serbia, and Bosnia, but it definitely does.
The Beauty Of The Historic Mostar, Bosnia
Mostar is not what I expected. Bosnia is not what I expected. After several weeks travelling through Slovenia and Croatia, I found the people of Bosnia to be the friendliest, and the food to be the best, by far. Mostar is a city still struggling with the effects of the Yugoslav wars of the 90s.
It certainly didn’t hurt that I stayed at a great hostel and met some great people. For an area that people of my age recall predominantly because of the violence of the late ‘90s, it’s a quiet and slowly recovering area that definitely deserves more tourist dollars. Highly recommended.
Inside An Abandoned Underground Yugoslavian Air Base
Yugoslavia was a country in a unique position. It wasn’t fully “the West,” in that it was Communist, but it also wasn’t part of the USSR. It’s military used aircraft from the US, Britain, and Russia . Being in such a position, having allies on either side, but potential enemies too, they planned extensively for the worst.
10: Montenegro
After Dubrovnik I continued south to the ancient port city of Kotor. It has a similar style to Dubrovnik, logical given it’s the same era, but it’s much smaller and tucked into a mountain-ringed bay. A fortified town, the medieval walls of the city extend high up into the cliffs above. Picturesque is putting it mildly. However, the same cruise ships that dock at the larger cities along the Adriatic dock here as well, so during the summer it’s obnoxiously full of Cruise Ship Tourists.
A bit of a rant. I fucking hate Cruise Ship Tourists. I’m all for travel, obviously. However you feel comfortable travelling, whatever works for you, go for it. However, cruise ships are a pestilence. Vomiting their overweight effluent into a city en masse, these people have no interest in experiencing the location, merely to snap a few pictures then reboard their floating palaces, just to repeat the same the next day. It’s like if they could avoid even touching anything, they would.
You might be thinking “but they spend money,” however they spent a tiny fraction of someone who actually visits the place. These people eat and sleep on the boat. Hotels don’t make that money, restaurants make only lunchtime money, if that, and the result is a place as stuffed as the pasty people waddling through it. I’d have less of an issue if they were even slightly conscious of how much they clog the streets like their own arteries, but nope. They’re more important than you, and as such, they can walk 4 abreast through the narrow alleyways, oblivious to their ruinous attitudes.
Now for a fun poop story.
The weather was fairly poor my first few days in Kotor, but on the day before I was to leave, the sun broke through and it wasn’t too hot: perfect climbing weather. I wanted to climb the hill over the city before I left and this was my chance. It’s a lot of stairs and ramps, and I’m not good with either, but dammit, I wanted to see this gorgeous area with my own eyes.
Somewhere up the trail, I started getting a twinge in my guttywuts. Lunch? Ice cream? Random punishment for my hatred of cruise ships? No idea. I wasn’t sure how far I’d gone, if I was closer to the top or the bottom, whether I should continue, or head back and have to climb what I’d covered again.
Convincing myself that I must be at least halfway, and that there must be toilets at the top, I continued on, my intestinal discomfort mounting. I reached the top and…
Kotor, Montenegro. From my hike a few weeks ago. So many stairs. #kotor #montenegro #balkans #mountains #clouds #oldtown #walledcity #europe #view #scenic #bay #adriatic #adriaticsea #dalmatiancoast #travel #travelphotography
50 Likes, 2 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Kotor, Montenegro. From my hike a few weeks ago. So many stairs. #kotor #montenegro #balkans…”
It was just the ruins of an ancient castle. That’s it. No toilets. Not even a private corner where I could relieve my misery. But dammit I’d climbed all this way, so with one hand on my gurgling belly, I took a few photos and then headed, nigh sprinted, back down. I was not going to make it. Two stairs at a time, three stairs, stares from tourists, stares from locals, I was going to explode. More likely, I was going to trip, smash my face in, then explode, my embarrassment complete.
I made it to the city. I dashed to the hostel. I somehow made it. Little did I know that this would be good practice for how my life is post-Incident.
9: Serbia
I just spent a few days in Belgrade, to visit the rather fascinating Belgrade Museum of Aviation. Check out how cool it looks:
A Mil Mi-4 in front of the Belgrade Museum of Aviation. One of the coolest tours I’ve done for CNET. Story and gallery soon. #belgrade #beograd #aviation #aircraft #air #museum #helicopter #mil #chopper #serbia #architecture #architecturalphotography #travel #travelphotography #balkans #yugoslavia #gopro #goprohero4black #goprohero4
55 Likes, 5 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “A Mil Mi-4 in front of the Belgrade Museum of Aviation. One of the coolest tours I’ve done for…”
While staying at the hostel in Belgrade, the owner plied me with home made rakia, aka moonshine. Got a bit drunk. The next morning I woke up and my gums felt like I’d been chewing razerblades. Party hard!
8: United Arab Emirates
I’ll be honest, I’m not a fan of Dubai. It’s like Vegas, but hotter. Not my scene. I can shop in big malls at home.
148 floors in the sky: The stunning view from the Burj Khalifa in Dubai
Far above the desert, in the heart of the city of Dubai, stands the tallest building in the world. A stunning tower of steel, concrete and glass. Here’s what it’s like to visit, along with a ton of photos of the view.
The Burj Khalifa, on the other hand, now that was cool.
7: Malta
The cool buildings of hot Malta.
89 Likes, 5 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “The cool buildings of hot Malta.”
Whether it was the heat, the heat, or the consistently rude people, neither Thaynara nor I enjoyed Malta.
6: Luxembourg
My best story about Luxembourg actually happened in France. After a day trip to Luxembourg City, Thaynara and I were on the TGV heading back to Paris. Now look, Luxembourg and France are both in the Schengen Area. This means that technically there is no border crossing. However, since 2105 France has implemented Passport checks if you enter by train. A fact I knew, but forgot. I’d like you imagine the mixture of surprise and contempt the border patrol officer had when I told him I didn’t have my Passport, and the sneer he gave when I said I was American.
Luxembourg, aka The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. This lovely tiny country is squeezed in between Belgium, France and Germany. Took this pic on a day trip from Paris with @thaynaravic last month. A great day checking off my last western European country and for almost getting denied entry back into France because I’m a bit of an idiot. #bringyourpassport
68 Likes, 7 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Luxembourg, aka The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. This lovely tiny country is squeezed in between…”
My friends, white privilege is absolutely a thing, and in this case it got me into France without a Passport with just my drivers license and a stupid smile.
Anyway, Luxembourg is pretty.
5: Poland
I had an extended layover in Warsaw. I walked around a bit and saw enough to convince me that I want to see more. Perhaps next year.
4: Fiji
If you need me, I’ll be here. Forever.
86 Likes, 7 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “If you need me, I’ll be here. Forever.”
Well Fiji sure was an adventure and a half, damn. Two cyclones, one a category 3 that caused us to be evacuated to the main island… and then have to bunker down at a hotel for 3 days. In all I think we had 3 days of good weather in 3 weeks.
2 Cyclones And 12 Days Of Rain: Enjoying Fiji When The Weather Doesn’t Cooperate
“It intensified overnight. It’s now a Category 3. They’re evacuating the islands.” So ended my Fijian adventure, for the most part. But then, it wasn’t a very surprising end since we’d had rain nearly every day since arriving. Let me back up.
However, wow what a lovely, lovely place. Everyone is so friendly, and the reality is every bit as gorgeous as the photos.
My friend Marie-Eve, who I met in South Africa and again in LA and Australia, was wrapping up a around-the-world adventure, and since I hadn’t been anywhere in over 6 months, I was raring to go somewhere. The night before my arrival she met Felicity, a Brit from Brighton that matched me for wits and sarcasm. The three of us bounced around the islands until it was time to do nothing but sit in a hotel and watch Friends re-runs.
A tale of two reefs: just off the beach at the Mantaray Island Resort, and the other, in the famous Blue Lagoon (where they filmed the movie). The reef was way cooler at Mantaray, but they threw some food in the water at the Blue Lagoon, so the fish swarmed and looked amazing. Also, is the fish in the second photo smiling at the camera?
62 Likes, 2 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “A tale of two reefs: just off the beach at the Mantaray Island Resort, and the other, in the famous…”
Not the adventure I expected, but an adventure none the less.
3: Slovakia
Now this was a fun adventure. As a short day trip, my friend Mary, her girlfriend Chris, and I took the quick train hop from Vienna to Bratislava. We didn’t know what to expect. Mary had never been, Chris had been in her youth, but didn’t remember much. We’d heard conflicting reports about the town. Either it was just a place to get drunk on the cheap, or it was a lovely place to visit, like a smaller Vienna or Budapest. I’d hoped for the latter…
And we were not disappointed. After an expectation-reducing walk from the train station through a boring industrial and residential area, the old town was gorgeous. We lucked out and picked a fantastic restaurant for lunch, Zylinder, where everything we ordered was exceptional.
Then a walk through the old town itself, and up to the castle for some great views and relaxation in the grass.
A brief stop at the “UFO Bridge” (visible in the first picture) for some sunset photos, then drinks and dinner before heading home.
Ever have one of those days where everything was just perfect? Perfect food, perfect adventure, perfect company? This was one of those days. One of the best days I’ve had in a while. Thanks Slovakia, I’m sure I’ll be back.
2: Turkey
The Blue Mosque at sunset.
I’m writing this from Turkey. I’ve been here a few days and I’m just barely scratching the surface. One thing stands out: people are way too outgoing. Outgoing and persistent. Random strangers just walk up to you and start talking. At first I thought just to sell me something, but not always. My normal status is “introvert,” usually “introvert with headphones on” so this consistent and unasked intrusion into my personal space is rather unwelcome. I’m always polite, but it puts me on guard and makes me uncomfortable.
Blue Mosque Tiny Planet
I’m going to guess a lot of you reading this are thinking “FFS that’s how my life is just walking down every damn street at home” to which I’d say, this is exactly what I was thinking. I always empathized, but now I can, at least in a tiny degree, sympathize.
Top tip! If someone has their headphones in, don’t fucking talk to them.
Anyway, Istanbul seems like a very safe city. Even late at night there are families walking around. The food so far as been OK, but the Hagia Sophia was a bit of a disappointment. I understand the need for maintenance in a 1500-year-old building, but it was nearly covered in scaffolding, safety barriers, and temporary walls. Oh well, it’s been around this long, it will probably be there when I go back.
Though disappointingly full of scaffolding, temporary walls, and safety barriers, the incredible beauty of the 1500 year old Hagia Sophia showed though. Well, in Tiny Planet photos like this anyway.
70 Likes, 4 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Though disappointingly full of scaffolding, temporary walls, and safety barriers, the incredible…”
Drumroll please…
I’ve visited 57 out of 217 countries. That is 26.27%.
]]> 50 Country Countdown: Part 1 http://baldnomad.com/50-country-countdown-part-1/ Tue, 24 Jul 2018 22:23:50 +0000 http://baldnomad.com/?p=1304 Adventures, adventures, adventures.
I’ve got a birthday coming up. One with a zero at the end. I had started writing a melancholy post about life, the universe, and woe-is-me everything, and I bored myself. No one wants to read that crap, especially not on something that’s allegedly a travel blog.
So instead, something a bit different. My goal before my birthday this year is to visit 50 countries. I’ve got 3 more to go, and if all goes to plan, I’ll get to all 3 by mid-August. What I thought I’d do is write a chronological list with each country I’ve visited, plus a photo maybe and a little story that sticks out about each. Something funny, interesting, personal maybe. The story of my travels, so to speak. So yeah, still self-serving, but maybe slightly more interesting to a wider audience.
If I’ve timed it right, I’ll have gotten you all caught up right in time to see the final 3, before I head home and drown my birthday sorrows in coffee ice cream and sushi.
Since nearly half the countries I’ve been to I’ve visited more than once, and about half of those way more than once, this chronological list blurs the “chrono” part a bit, as they’re listed based on when I first visited, but the moments mentioned might be far more recent. Also, some are more interesting than others, but, that’s the nature of it all, right?
50: America
Little Fluffy Clouds. This is one of my favorite photos, taken in southern Arizona during a massive road trip around the US in 2010. I’d lost the original, only recently finding it on a harddrive I thought was dead. I need a new road trip. Soon.
61 Likes, 3 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Little Fluffy Clouds. This is one of my favorite photos, taken in southern Arizona during a massive…”
I count the US as one of my countries visited not because I was born there, of course, but because I’ve explored there. 47 out of the 50 states, to be exact. I’ve driven across both ways twice, and its where my love of travel and the excitement for an epic road trip was born. I have fond memories of sitting in the back of the family Subaru, watching the world flash by, as mom, dad, and wee Geoff ventured south to the Chesapeake Bay (that crazy bridge and tunnel), north to New Hampshire and Maine, and more. My dad made me a little lap desk so I could color and read. Good times.
49: Canada
I’m not sure how old I was when we first drove up to Canada. I remember parts of Montreal and Quebec City. Much, much later, a work trip brought me to Toronto. What a lovely city and people.
48: United Kingdom
An epic sunset on the Applecross pass. Scotland is amazing.
66 Likes, 8 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “An epic sunset on the Applecross pass. Scotland is amazing.”
As a teenager, my family and I made our first big international trip. I got a passport and everything. We drove out to the Cotswolds and saw lots of amazing things.
This is one of the hardest countries to sum up, though, since I’ve now been here more than any other country. Somewhere over 14 times, and that’s not counting overnight layovers travelling to or from somewhere else.
London I Love
London grew in fits and starts, bound for a millennia by the slow crawl of humanity. Population density was requisite for a city 300 years ago. As roads began overflowing with humans, horses, sedan chairs, and carriages, London dug down, instead, into the dark depths of dirt, and built tunnels and machines to convey passengers with great rapidity.
So what do I pick? The road trip with Kay to Stonehenge, Oxford, and the best fish and chips I’d ever had (in York)? Driving around Scotland with my dad? Any number of memorable nights and days with Jelley, Grace, Heena, Hayley, Gil, or Holly. Drinking until dawn with Zoe and Georgia?
Jelley and Grace. None of us look our best here, which is why I love it.
But my most memorable moment would have to be meeting my BFF Thaynara, not least because she’d kick my ass if I didn’t.
Happy Birthday shitface
42 Likes, 1 Comments – Thaynara Oliveira (@thaynaravic) on Instagram: “Happy Birthday shitface”
It’s an incredible country. It’s similar to home, yet different. Everyone is lovely, and it’s a place I feel quite comfortable, yet still marvel at the differences enough to make it still feel like an adventure.
However, now I visit primarily to see friends. Such a wonderful lot.
47: Korea
Seoul in the round
My first work trip, and my first trip to Asia, was to South Korea. That trip sticks out for two reasons: Meeting my friend Serena, and getting cured of being a finicky eater. After spending my entire life, until 2003, eating basically nothing interesting (in hindsight), I watched with a combination of horror and awe as friend and colleague Grant devoured everything put in front of him. “What is that,” I asked. He shrugged, and ate more. What happened was some sort of revelation, that I could try things, but not have to like them. So I tried things. A great many things. And, holy shit, food is good!
DMZ
Except for kimchi. That shit is evil.
I’m amused by the thought that nearly my entire diet now are things I’d never even tried before 2003. Life evolves.
46: Japan
After my old boss Mike left Home Theater, I became a lot more important and correspondingly, got to go on a lot more work trips. 2004 was the beginning of this, including back-to-back-to-back trips to Japan, Europe, and Mexico.
2004, 2008, 2016. At this rate, I’ll take this photo again in 2032.
The unintended consequence of this was a bizarre mishap in my social life. Right before Japan I’d gone on a few dates with someone. After what would be our last date, I told her I was going to be travelling a lot for the better part of the next 2 months, but would love to see her again as soon as I got back. This being a pre-Facebook era, there was no way to really verify this I suppose, so all she heard was I was flaking on her, so she treated me from that point on like I’d killed her dog. By the time she realized that, no, I was telling the truth and wasn’t an asshole, it was too late. So it goes.
The Beauty and Wonder of Japan: Part 1
Magnificent. It had been a rough few months. After getting sidelined by a broken leg, I spent nearly 3 months laid out at home. It was challenging. Then, in late April, I got the all clear from the bone doc, and the next day I was on a flight to Japan.
But anyway, Japan. What can I say about Japan. The food, the people, the architecture, the… everything. I love Japan so much. It’s probably why I’ve been there 8 times (soon to be 9). One of the joys of travelling is being in a place that is distinctly different than home. Japan is so that, from driving on the other side of the street, to the serious signs full of cartoon characters, to being surrounded by a sea of black shiny hair. Also random outdoor vending machines, spotless subway systems, and incredible architecture.
And the people. Polite and friendly to a degree that you can’t help but smile in response. I don’t know what it would be like to live here, but to visit is delightful.
Up close and personal with Tokyo’s 59-foot Gundam statue
It’s even bigger than it looks. Standing in front of it, my head tilted back — it’s huge. It’s sci-fi come to life: an 18-meter/59-foot tall Mobile Suit from the anime series ” Gundam.” Built initially to celebrate the series’ 30th anniversary, the enormous statue has traveled around a bit.
It’s hard to pinpoint a single memory to highlight. Drunken karaoke with Greg, Brent, and Danny? Exploring Ginza at night with David, to the terror of our hosts? Celebrating Phil’s birthday in Shinjuku? Meeting the charming Mayu and enjoying a lunch of the best ramen on Earth?
Or maybe the quiet moments on my own, like sitting on a bench in Kanazawa, or exploring Gunkanjima “Battleship Island,” maybe walking the streets of Kyoto in the rain, I don’t know. It’s probably my favorite place to visit.
45: The Netherlands
My childhood friend Abby wanted to do a spring break somewhere, and because the flights were cheap, we settled on the Netherlands. Maybe it was because it was early April and cold and rainy, maybe it was because I hadn’t learned how to travel with friends yet, but… I didn’t love it. It’s fine, but I just don’t get why so many people are so crazy about Amsterdam. I’ll freely admit I need to go back when it’s warm and sunny. From here we drove to Paris.
44: Belgium
Just passed through on the way to France. There’s a history joke there, if you want, but I’ll skip it because I feel bad enough skipping Belgium.
43: France
After 5 years of French lessons, 9 years prior, I finally made it to France. Didn’t remember a damn word… at first. It started to come back to me.
A magical dawn rainbow at the island fortress of Mont Saint-Michel. A double rainbow, actually, but my camera only had the range to pick up the faint outline of the second. One of the most amazing places I’ve ever been. They warn you not to walk out here, as the tide comes in dangerously fast. The risk and muddy sneakers were worth it for this shot, taken in June of 2014.
112 Likes, 12 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “A magical dawn rainbow at the island fortress of Mont Saint-Michel. A double rainbow, actually, but…”
I’ve visited France a ton as well, 8 times, and it is as wonderful as people say. The food is great, the scenery is great, and as long as you’re not in Paris, the people are great too. Top tip: apologize for not being able to speak French, and everyone will treat you wonderfully.
Nice, Monaco, et la Cote d’Azur
Often, while travelling, you visit a place that while interesting, doesn’t live up to the hype. The Batu Caves were that way for me, for example, with their poured concrete floors, piles of trash, and embedded gift shops. That was not the case with Nice and Monaco.
This is another one that’s hard to narrow down the best moment. Expecting to stay in Nice for 3 days and staying 2 weeks, meeting Jelley, Lena, Janice, Paige, and the rest of the crew from Meyerbeer Beach hostel. Sunrise rainbow over Mont Saint Michel. Disneyland Paris with Thaynara (her first Disney adventure!), Cherbourg, another spot I expected to stay for a day and stayed a week, so chill.
But I think, it’s this, which is also one of my favorite pieces of writing I’ve ever done:
96 Hours at the 24 Hours of Le Mans
It’s the greatest auto race in the world, taking place once a year, for 24 hours straight. Running at full throttle for most of the 8.5-mile track, it’s the ultimate test of man and machine. Here’s what it’s like to be there.
42: Mexico
My first visits here were to Cabo, which is sort of like Mexico-lite. It wasn’t until years later, after I’d befriended in London my now-roommate Carolina, that I got to see the far more real Mexico of Tijuana and Ensenada. My memories are more of that, Christmas with her family, and the incredible food.
Seven Tijuana Tacos Not To Miss
Tacos are awesome. Simple ingredients combined in myriad ways to create something incredible. If you’ve never had real tacos, you don’t know what you’re missing. I sure didn’t.
41: Germany
Germany is, oddly, rarely a destination. With the exception of my first visit, it’s someplace I’m usually passing through. No real reason for that, just turned out that way.
But that first visit was to a trade show in Berlin, and fulfilling a lifelong dream, I rented a car and drove it flat-out on the Autobahn. That was only about 112mph, but still, the feeling of having that pedal flat to the floor and zoooooming past other cars. Brilliant. I did it again with my dad in our rented Renault SUV diesel, and this year in a Fiat 500X… diesel. It’s like the rental companies know what I want to do and are conspiring to give me slow cars.
Still fun though.
40: Czech Republic
I’d heard so much about Prague before I went that I was a bit let down by the excessive touristy-ness of it. Like Amsterdam, I’ll chalk this up to a bad visit and pledge to give it another chance in the future.
39: Italy
I don’t have the best luck with Italy. The vast majority of my negative travel stories involve Italy, or more specifically, Italians. From getting robbed on a night train for over $4,000 of gear, to blatantly rude and almost gleefully unhelpful behavior across the entire country. There are many lovely Italian people, but my interactions have been bizarrely and consistently negative. As far as countries I’d revisit, it’s last on the list.
But it’s still on the list, because it is rather gorgeous. Climbing Mt Etna was a real treat, as is Venice, which despite what you may have heard, is an awesome place to explore and get lost. It’s just a whole different world.
Discovering The Delightful Italian Town Of Taormina
Up and down the Italian coast are countless gorgeous towns. The blue Mediterranean waters, the rocky cliffs and shores, it seems they were made for postcards. Far in the south, on the island of Sicily, is Taormina.
But if I have to pick a single story, it’s the town of Taormina, on the east coast of Sicily, perched high above the Ionian sea, home of some amazing restaurants and many memories relaxing with my BFF.
It might be worth going back just for this cheese plate.
38: Vatican City
Vatican City has 5.88 Popes per square mile.
37: Denmark
Denmark is lovely, especially Copenhagen, but my amusing story here goes back 10 years before I ever visited. 15, actually. For my first visit to the UK, I needed a Passport, obviously. The thing is, I was under 18. Kids Passports last 5 years, not the normal 10. This is a fact we hadn’t realized, until I noticed… 2 days before we were leaving for the UK the second time. So my dad and I bolted into Boston to get a rush Passport. Lots of stress, lots of money, but it happened.
Flash forward 10 years. This time I knew my Passport was expiring, in November, but no worries I had no international travel planned and that was 4 months away. Suddenly a work trip materialized and, guess what, most countries won’t let you in if your Passport expires in less than 6 months. So, in the span of a few days, I had to move into my new house, ship a big fall issue of the magazine I was editor of, and do a rush job on a Passport. Ah, stress.
I don’t recommend any of that. Denmark was cool though.
36: Sweden
My first trip to Sweden was a day trip across the bridge while I was in Copenhagen.
Late night Helsingborg #sunset. Just the middle of a great night out. #travel #Sweden #midsummerday
34 Likes, 3 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Late night Helsingborg #sunset. Just the middle of a great night out. #travel #Sweden #midsummerday”
I had no idea that 5 years later I’d meet several wonderful Swedes, and end up spending a bunch of time there. It’s a lovely country, with lakes and endless green… in the summer, obviously.
One of the coolest subway systems in the world: the Stockholm Metro. A Stockholmian (is that a word?) friend took me down here on a recent visit. This is Rådhuset, but a bunch of the stations are this cool. #stockholm #metro #europe #scandinavia #sweet #rådhuset #subway #station #rock #travel #travelphotography #cave #subterranean #organic #brutal #sweden #stockholmare #underground #blueline
54 Likes, 7 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “One of the coolest subway systems in the world: the Stockholm Metro. A Stockholmian (is that a…”
A particular standout was a visit around the holiday of Midsummer, out drinking with Maya and Erika, watching a spectacular sunset at nearly 11pm.
35: South Africa
In a way, the entirety of my life now is a direct result of a conversation at Maureen and Phil’s dining room table. Maureen mentioned that she wanted to go to South Africa, but because of Phil’s work, she didn’t have anyone to go with. I immediately said that I would. Not thinking I was serious, having given it zero thought, she said not to kid. I said I wasn’t because, as you all probably know, convincing me to travel somewhere really is as simple as “hey, let’s go there” and I’m in.
South Africa is the exact opposite side of the world from Los Angeles, almost precisely the antipode. To get there from the US involves one of the longest flights you can take.
It’s so worth it, just to be able to see so many amazing animals in their natural habitat. Elephants, lions, cheetahs, hyenas, hippos, and so many more. An absolutely incredible experience.
But like most of my adventures, the key factor was a who, not a what, eventually leading to this. And that, of course, leading to my extended travelling.
Looking back, that simple conversation over brunch was one of the decisive nodal points in my life. Funny how those pass and don’t seem like much at the time, but become so later on.
34: Kingdom of Eswatini, aka Swaziland
On the South African adventure, we spent a few days in Swaziland. This land-locked country is stunningly beautiful, with mountains in the west and plains in the East.
Though getting charged by a wild boar, petting a wild nyala, and spraining my knee jumping in a pool (because of course I did) are all standouts, it was getting up before dawn and watching the sun rise from atop a mountain, overlooking the savanna below. An amazing moment.
33: Switzerland
In 2013 my dad and I embarked on a rather epic road trip, starting and ending in Zurich, and covering 8 countries and 2400 miles.
My fondest memory was actually our last night, with a delicious dinner at Storchen.
32: Lichtenstein
Vaduz was the emptiest capital city I’ve ever seen. A handful of buildings, seemingly all banks, and no people.
31: Austria
My first visit to Austria was with my dad, on the above-mentioned road trip. While fun, that’s not what comes to mind when I think of this country. That would be my friend Mary.
We’d met in Australia, and my subsequent visits to Austria have been largely to hang out with my friend. I’m actually writing this on her sofa right now and she’s not at all looking over my shoulder making sure I say how awesome she is.
Vienna Vienna
Little City, Big Heart There is something about this city. It’s probably my most visited place after London and Tokyo. And yet, I’ve written nothing about it. A strange discrepancy for someone who writes about pretty much everything. This was my longest visit yet.
30: Hungary
This picture:
Budapest!
29: Slovenia
The awesome Predjama Castle in Slovenia. Built into a cliff, with a huge cave behind. Visited a few years ago on a roadtrip through 8 countries with my dad. #castle #castles #cliff #cave #slovenia #predjama #predjamacastle #europe #travel #travelphotography
41 Likes, 6 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “The awesome Predjama Castle in Slovenia. Built into a cliff, with a huge cave behind. Visited a few…”
This country is delightful. Initially just a stop between Budapest and Venice on our road trip, Slovenia, and specifically the capital Ljubljana, were fantastic and my dad and I quickly fell in love with it. The food is fantastic (especially the restaurant Compa), the city center gorgeous, and the people lovely.
I’ve gone back twice since, including last year staying a week, even meeting up with Kaylee, a fellow American I’d met in Croatia the year before. It’s a gem of a city that’s fairly light on tourists… for now.
Rawr. The 115-year-old Dragon Bridge. Not sure where they got the name. #slovenia #ljubljana #dragon #clouds #rawr #castle #bridge #travel #travelphotography #wings #europe #green #statue
38 Likes, 1 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “Rawr. The 115-year-old Dragon Bridge. Not sure where they got the name. #slovenia #ljubljana…”
Perhaps the funniest story from here is getting pulled over on the highway from Budapest to Ljubljana, then being asked to step out of the car… and then enter the police van… and being told I needed to pay a “special fee” and that cash or credit card would be equally fine. Uh huh.
Ljubljana, Slovenia: An Overlooked Gem Of Europe
Don’t get me wrong, the big capitals of Europe like Paris, Madrid, and Rome, are great. But they’re also big and quite crowded. If you’re looking for that quintessential European vibe without all the hustle and bustle, it’s hard to beat Slovenia’s Ljubljana. Planning a big trip?
Much later I learned that it was legit, that I needed to buy a road tax sticker when I entered the country. This notice was written in Slovene, a language spoken by only 2.5 million people, in small print, on the side of the road. Yep, totally legit. State sanctioned totally legit.
28: China
The Hong Kong skyline from Kowloon. May 2013
This was another adventure with Maureen and Phil. We met in Hong Kong and worked our way, zig-zagging largely by train, all the way to Beijing.
A #tbt to one of my favorite pictures I’ve ever taken. The little one came with the room. More info here on the big one: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_Duck_(sculpture) #rubberduck #rubberducky #rubberduckyyouretheone #hongkong #kowloon #throwbackthursday #victoriaharbour #china #cute #animals #reflections
35 Likes, 4 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “A #tbt to one of my favorite pictures I’ve ever taken. The little one came with the room. More info…”
Hong Kong is amazing, Shanghai was great, and as far as things done, walking along the Great Wall was a solid life moment.
Photo courtesy of Phil Metzler.
On the same trip were some amazing people I still call friends, Hayley, Henrik, Nadine, Eleonor, and of course, Kay. Kay is absolutely my kind of bonkers and we have had several adventures since, always involving food and colorful language.
One of the things that stands out most were the epic overnight trains. Some of these took more than a day, trundling along with crappy air conditioning and no dining car. What do you do to pass the time? Drink. Drink many, many bottles of cheap Chinese wine and have an absolute blast.
One single moment? A night out in Xi’an, where we found a restaurant where the hostess claimed the waiters spoke English (they didn’t) and we had to order with multiple complex dietary requirements using nothing but hand signals, a few pre-written Chinese symbols, and a lot of misunderstanding. It was epic. And fun. And the food was fantastic. If I recall, the bill was less than $70 for the entire meal.
The “Super Mario” restaurant, as we called it. No affiliation, apparently.
27: Norway
One final international trip for 2013: Sweden, Norway, and UK. I was joined by my special travel buddy I wrote about earlier, and we met up with a bunch of the awesome folks I’d met earlier in the year.
A #tbt to a day spent frolicking amongst the fjords with a friend. The incredibly beautiful Flåm Railway from Bergen and back. #norway #bergen #train #mountains #travel #clouds #fog #throwbackthursday #railway #rail #locomotive #travelphotography #europe #scandinavia #flåm #grammasters3
59 Likes, 4 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “A #tbt to a day spent frolicking amongst the fjords with a friend. The incredibly beautiful Flåm…”
The highlight was probably a fjord day trip, by train and boat, that had waterfalls, mountains and more. Simply stunning countryside. Slartibartfast deserved his award.
26: Australia
I don’t know even where to begin with Australia. I’ve written about this magical place so many times before. From my 5 day bender in Melbourne with Paul, Paddy, Norah and Rachael, to incredible few weeks in Byron Bay with Mary, Maja, Erika, and Rowin, to the Great Ocean Road with Marie-Eve and Catherine, to chasing a shark on the Great Barrier Reef, and of course Fraser Island and Cairns with Heena, Zoe, Georgia, and Grace. It’s a country of adventure, and a huge part of how my travels have played out over the following years.
Australia: Ending on High Note
I fled 1770, days late and angry, a little after 1 in the morning. The moonless sky rich with stars as if beckoning for better things beyond. It would be almost 20 hours before I’d stop. Twenty hours, 1,300 kilometers, 800 miles, and one seat.
Honestly, I could do a whole post like this just counting down my favorite moments from Australia. If I had to single out one “travel” moment, it would be on a road trip in Western Australia, after hours on desolate highways, I found myself in Esperance. A fierce lightning storm was brewing over the Southern Ocean, letting me take some of my favorite pictures ever.
Off Esperance, Aus
25: New Zealand
This is easily, the most photogenic place I’ve ever been. Staggeringly beautiful. I think photos tell the best story of this gorgeous place.
That Wanaka Tree. There was about 2 minutes when the sun dipped below the clouds but was still above the mountains. This lit up the fall foliage juuuuust right. Such a magical place and one of my favorite road trips ever. And OK, technically this is a repost, as it was one of the first I posted to Instagram. But back then it needed to be square, and I think it looks cooler wide.
145 Likes, 8 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “That Wanaka Tree. There was about 2 minutes when the sun dipped below the clouds but was still…”
A #tbt to that loveliest of countries, #newzealand. This is the #road to #mtcook. #mountains #landscape
47 Likes, 2 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “A #tbt to that loveliest of countries, #newzealand. This is the #road to #mtcook. #mountains…”
Geoff in Hobbiton
I still carry with me a fake painted leaf from the fake tree that sits atop Bag End. This spot meant a lot to me.
On to Part 2…
]]> Vienna Vienna http://baldnomad.com/vienna-vienna/ Wed, 23 Aug 2017 07:35:50 +0000 http://baldnomad.com/?p=1266 Little City, Big Heart
There is something about this city. It’s probably my most visited place after London and Tokyo. And yet, I’ve written nothing about it. A strange discrepancy for someone who writes about pretty much everything.
This was my longest visit yet. Four days at the beginning of August, then back again the following week for 11 days straight.
Schönbrunn Palace. This and the two pics above were from my first summer visit.
When people ask me about it, I find it hard to describe. “Chill” is my most common adjective, though that is woefully inadequate and overly simplistic. Perhaps my descriptor difficulty comes from the city’s own dichotomy. At once new and old, big and small, worldly yet European. You can walk streets of incredible old-world beauty, yet take a modern metro from anywhere to anywhere in the city. The architecture is distinctly classical and baroque, the signs are all in German, yet you’re just as likely to find sushi and pho as wurst and schnitzel. The faces on the streets reveal it to be far more of a melting pot than you’d expect for the center of Europe.
Despite its 1.8 million inhabitants there’s a small town vibe to it all. Niche boutiques advertise their wares in narrow storefronts. People in outdoor cafes and restaurants sit in twos, threes, and more chatting in all languages while smoking cigarette after cigarette and sipping endless amounts of coffee. Trams rattle past unnoticed by denizens and dogs alike.
This is the summer, of course, and with the long winter a shared memory and foreboding nightmare, the Viennese flock to the many parks and stroll the long strasse to absorb as much sun as possible. My first visit here was at the end of the winter, and it was brutal enough that my dad and I fled to warmer climes.
Throughout the city incredible buildings like the State Opera house, the Hofburg, Schönbrunn Palace, the twin Natural History and Fine Art museums, along with countless other buildings and beautiful cathedrals, all add a sense of quiet grandeur.
There’s angles in the architecture, spinning in infinity.
The incredible ceiling fresco of the Prunksaal, or State Hall, of the Hofburg in Vienna. It’s now part of the Austrian National Library.
43 Likes, 3 Comments – Geoffrey Morrison (@inveterate_adventurer) on Instagram: “The incredible ceiling fresco of the Prunksaal, or State Hall, of the Hofburg in Vienna. It’s now…”
Though an enjoyable city, that itself is not why I’ve visited so often. No, like most of how I spend my life now, it’s because of the people. I met Mary in Australia when I first started travelling. A singular spark of extraordinary light, it has been one of the great gifts of my adventures to have met her and continue to call her my friend. Through her I got to meet Nadja, Lena, and Chris. Their charm and warmth make me feel welcome. Make me feel at home.
So I spend time with friends in Vienna. I eat delicious food in Vienna. I drink in Vienna. I driiiink in Vienna. Because why not. It’s a city with a special place in my heart. I go there just to be there. To be with friends and to relax.
Vienna Vienna, du schöne.
]]> Life and Death and Luck http://baldnomad.com/life-and-death-and-luck/ Mon, 01 May 2017 08:05:16 +0000 http://baldnomad.com/?p=1254 
It’s weird.
It’s weird having been so close to death. I feel like a fraud talking about it. I don’t really feel like I was close to death at all. I can look at the numbers. I can look at the rarity of what happened. I can hear the words of my surgeon echoing in my mind. I take it on faith that I am lucky to be alive.
But it feels unreal. I had no long struggle with chemo. I had no warning signs that doctors cautioned me about. There was no accident or crash, no incident of violence. I felt ill for a few hours, I spent some time unconscious, and now I’m here.
It’s only real when I look down. A lazy red tattoo snakes down my chest, a reminder for the rest of my life of how close I came.
This isn’t to say it’s been easy. Recovery has been slow (to me). The pain has finally subsided enough that I no longer need Tylenol to take the edge off (the Percocet thankfully long gone). I can sleep through the night. Only this last week have I been able to eat or drink cold things. Large amounts of anything still remains elusive, but that is getting better. The worst has been my bowels. Turns out when you take your guts out of your body for a bit, they stop working and take a loooong time to fully reboot. Add in a week of scorched-Earth-level antibiotics, and you’re pretty much not going to absorb anything you eat. I lost 22 pounds because of all this, and half that was not digesting my food properly for over a month.
The body heals, perhaps not as fast as we’d like. The mind though, is another story.
My scar is like a stamp with an expiration date. I’m going to die. Not soon, I think, but who knows? I’ve always understood this, I think more keenly than most people. I’ve always thought I’d die before I got old. Maybe I was wrong about that, maybe this was the bullet dodged?
But now, I think about that a lot. Not, oddly, in a morose way. More in a fatalistic way (literally, I guess). The doctors say that this shouldn’t affect me long term, but if you’d asked any doctor in the world on February 28th what serious medical emergency I’d have the next day, exactly none would have said celiac artery aneurysm.
That’s not to say I don’t believe doctors. It’s that I do believe in chaos. The random chance of the world. I feel the fragility of life in a way I didn’t before.
My best friend tries to convince me this is just like when I got my cast off after breaking my leg. I was so nervous about injuring it again I was timid and hesitant to do anything with it. Maybe she’s right. Maybe in a few months this will have faded and I’ll feel less like there’s another shoe to drop. But for right now, 2 months out, that’s not how I feel. I feel like the future is far more uncertain than I ever feared. I feel brittle.
Had this happened 4 years ago I think it would have profoundly changed my outlook on the world. The thing is, I had that epiphany already. I already took stock in my life and did something about it. Perhaps that’s why I’m not freaked out now. For the last three years I’ve traveled the world, seen incredible things, and met the most amazing people. As I lay there in my hospital bed, taking stock of everything, I realized what I wanted out of life was what I was already doing. I wanted to travel, write, and most importantly, spend time with people I do love and people I will love. I had no near-death crisis questioning my life’s choices. I’d done that with no surgical stimuli. All I wanted was to go back to doing what I had been doing.
So that’s where I’m lucky. Not in having the aneurysm (of course). Not in surviving a catastrophic medical incident, since that was thanks to the the skill of my doctors. No, I’m lucky in that I came out the other side realizing that what I want out of life is what I already have.
Though a bit more couldn’t hurt. I don’t know if I’ll have time to do everything, but I’m going to try.
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