| dbo:abstract |
زحف الموج (بالإنجليزية: Swash)، هي آخر امتداد لمياه البحر على الشاطئ (الجزء الأبيض من الماء)، وهي تعمل على تصفيف الشاطئ بعد تراجع الموجة ذهاباً وإياباً. (ar) En el ámbito de la geografía, se denomina rebalaje (reflujo y escurrimiento) al agua de mar batida que se extiende sobre la costa después de que una ola haya roto. Esta acción hace que la arena y otras partículas livianas sean transportadas hacia el mar. La dirección del rebalaje depende de los vientos predominantes, mientras que el escurrimiento es siempre perpendicular a la línea costera. (es) Nuair a shroicheann an tonn an cladach, briseann sé. Tugtar borruisce ar an uisce bán, coipeach a thagann i dtír. ¨ (ga) Swash, or forewash in geography, is a turbulent layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken. The swash action can move beach materials up and down the beach, which results in the cross-shore sediment exchange. The time-scale of swash motion varies from seconds to minutes depending on the type of beach (see Figure 1 for beach types). Greater swash generally occurs on flatter beaches. The swash motion plays the primary role in the formation of morphological features and their changes in the swash zone. The swash action also plays an important role as one of the instantaneous processes in wider coastal morphodynamics. There are two approaches that describe swash motions: (1) swash resulting from the collapse of high-frequency bores (f>0.05 Hz) on the beachface; and (2) swash characterised by standing, low-frequency (f<0.05 Hz) motions. Which type of swash motion prevails is dependent on the wave conditions and the beach morphology and this can be predicted by calculating the surf similarity parameter εb (Guza & Inman 1975): Where Hb is the breaker height, g is gravity, T is the incident-wave period and tan β is the beach gradient. Values εb>20 indicate dissipative conditions where swash is characterised by standing long-wave motion. Values εb<2.5 indicate reflective conditions where swash is dominated by wave bores. (en) No âmbito da geografia denomina-se espraiamento ou espraio, a água de mar a bater na costa e que se estende sobre ela após o rompimento de uma onda. Esta ação faz com que a areia e outras partículas superficiais sejam transportadas para o mar. A direção do espraiamento depende dos ventos dominantes. (pt) |
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dbc:Coastal_geography |
| rdfs:comment |
زحف الموج (بالإنجليزية: Swash)، هي آخر امتداد لمياه البحر على الشاطئ (الجزء الأبيض من الماء)، وهي تعمل على تصفيف الشاطئ بعد تراجع الموجة ذهاباً وإياباً. (ar) En el ámbito de la geografía, se denomina rebalaje (reflujo y escurrimiento) al agua de mar batida que se extiende sobre la costa después de que una ola haya roto. Esta acción hace que la arena y otras partículas livianas sean transportadas hacia el mar. La dirección del rebalaje depende de los vientos predominantes, mientras que el escurrimiento es siempre perpendicular a la línea costera. (es) Nuair a shroicheann an tonn an cladach, briseann sé. Tugtar borruisce ar an uisce bán, coipeach a thagann i dtír. ¨ (ga) No âmbito da geografia denomina-se espraiamento ou espraio, a água de mar a bater na costa e que se estende sobre ela após o rompimento de uma onda. Esta ação faz com que a areia e outras partículas superficiais sejam transportadas para o mar. A direção do espraiamento depende dos ventos dominantes. (pt) Swash, or forewash in geography, is a turbulent layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken. The swash action can move beach materials up and down the beach, which results in the cross-shore sediment exchange. The time-scale of swash motion varies from seconds to minutes depending on the type of beach (see Figure 1 for beach types). Greater swash generally occurs on flatter beaches. The swash motion plays the primary role in the formation of morphological features and their changes in the swash zone. The swash action also plays an important role as one of the instantaneous processes in wider coastal morphodynamics. (en) |
| rdfs:label |
Swash (en) زحف الموج (ar) Rebalaje (es) Borruisce (ga) Espraiamento (pt) |
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