Wave shoaling (original) (raw)
Il fenomeno dello shoaling avviene quando le onde che si avvicinano alla linea di riva aumentano la loro altezza relativamente al diminuire della velocità. Si dimostra tramite la conservazione del flusso di energia che dal largo arriva fino a riva. Fino a che l'onda non arriva a frangersi si può supporre che il flusso di energia si conservi.
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| dbo:abstract | Als Shoaling (englisch gesprochen [ʃəʊlɪŋ]) oder Shoaling-Effekt wird im Küstenwasserbau die gleichzeitige Verringerung der Wellenlänge und Vergrößerung der Wellenhöhe bezeichnet, die beim Einlaufen einer Tiefwasserwelle in einen Flachwasserbereich der Küste zu beobachten ist. Läuft eine Tiefwasserwelle in einen Flachwasserbereich ein und berührt die Welle den Grund des Gewässers, wird die Wellengeschwindigkeit und damit die Wellenlänge verringert. Aus Gründen der Energieerhaltung muss die reduzierte Bewegungsenergie in potentielle Energie (Lageenergie) umgewandelt werden, was durch eine vergrößerte Wellenhöhe sichtbar wird. Der Shoaling-Effekt nimmt bei abflachendem Gewässer immer weiter zu, bis die Welle bricht. (de) El asomeramiento es el efecto producido en las ondas del mar (oleaje) al reducirse notablemente la altura del fondo marino a su llegada a la costa. Se produce a partir de que la ola alcanza profundidades menores a la mitad de su longitud de onda, disminuyendo su velocidad de propagación y la longitud de onda, pudiendo disminuir o aumentar su altura y en general adquiriendo mayor peralte. Cuando el oleaje se aproxima a la costa con un determinado ángulo de incidencia, se produce la variación de la velocidad de propagación a lo largo de cada frente de onda, tendiendo a adquirir una disposición paralela a las líneas de igual profundidad (isóbatas), en un fenómeno de refracción. (es) Dalam dinamika fluida, pendangkalan gelombang (bahasa Inggris: shoaling) merupakan efek perubahan tinggi gelombang air ketika ombak merambat pada perairan yang lebih dangkal. Dalam kondisi stasioner, penurunan kelajuan transpor harus disertai dengan kenaikan kerapatan energi supaya fluks energi tetap konstan. Panjang gelombang yang mengalami pendangkalan akan berkurang, sementara frekuensinya akan tetap konstan. Pada perairan yang dangkal dan memiliki kontur paralel, gelombang yang tidak pecah akan meningkat tingginya ketika memasuki perairan yang lebih dangkal. Hal ini terjadi pada gelombang tsunami yang bertambah tinggi ketika mendekati garis pantai. (in) Il fenomeno dello shoaling avviene quando le onde che si avvicinano alla linea di riva aumentano la loro altezza relativamente al diminuire della velocità. Si dimostra tramite la conservazione del flusso di energia che dal largo arriva fino a riva. Fino a che l'onda non arriva a frangersi si può supporre che il flusso di energia si conservi. (it) In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves, entering shallower water, change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the group velocity, which is also the wave-energy transport velocity, changes with water depth. Under stationary conditions, a decrease in transport speed must be compensated by an increase in energy density in order to maintain a constant energy flux. Shoaling waves will also exhibit a reduction in wavelength while the frequency remains constant. In other words, as the waves approach the shore and the water gets shallower, the waves get taller, slow down, and get closer together. In shallow water and parallel depth contours, non-breaking waves will increase in wave height as the wave packet enters shallower water. This is particularly evident for tsunamis as they wax in height when approaching a coastline, with devastating results. (en) Shoaling is het hoger worden van golven bij een strand. Een goed Nederlands woord is hiervoor niet beschikbaar. Doordat de voortplantingssnelheid van een golf afhangt van de waterdiepte, gaat die golf steeds langzamer lopen als hij in ondieper water komt. De voorkant van de golf vertraagt hierdoor eerder dan de achterkant, en de golf wordt dus korter. Omdat de energie van een enkele golf gelijk blijft, maar over een kortere lengte verdeeld moet worden, wordt de golf dus hoger. (nl) Na dinâmica de fluidos, o empolamento de onda é o efeito por meio do qual ondas oceânicas, ao entrarem em águas rasas, sofrem mudanças de comprimento, ou altura. Isso é causado pelo fato de que a , que também é a velocidade de deslocamento das forças de onda, sofre variações a partir da profundidade da água. Sob condições estacionárias, uma diminuição na velocidade de transporte deve ser compensada por um aumento na densidade de energia, a fim de manter um fluxo constante de energia. Ondas em empolamento exibem uma redução de comprimento enquanto que a frequência permanece em constância. (pt) |
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| rdfs:comment | Il fenomeno dello shoaling avviene quando le onde che si avvicinano alla linea di riva aumentano la loro altezza relativamente al diminuire della velocità. Si dimostra tramite la conservazione del flusso di energia che dal largo arriva fino a riva. Fino a che l'onda non arriva a frangersi si può supporre che il flusso di energia si conservi. (it) Shoaling is het hoger worden van golven bij een strand. Een goed Nederlands woord is hiervoor niet beschikbaar. Doordat de voortplantingssnelheid van een golf afhangt van de waterdiepte, gaat die golf steeds langzamer lopen als hij in ondieper water komt. De voorkant van de golf vertraagt hierdoor eerder dan de achterkant, en de golf wordt dus korter. Omdat de energie van een enkele golf gelijk blijft, maar over een kortere lengte verdeeld moet worden, wordt de golf dus hoger. (nl) Na dinâmica de fluidos, o empolamento de onda é o efeito por meio do qual ondas oceânicas, ao entrarem em águas rasas, sofrem mudanças de comprimento, ou altura. Isso é causado pelo fato de que a , que também é a velocidade de deslocamento das forças de onda, sofre variações a partir da profundidade da água. Sob condições estacionárias, uma diminuição na velocidade de transporte deve ser compensada por um aumento na densidade de energia, a fim de manter um fluxo constante de energia. Ondas em empolamento exibem uma redução de comprimento enquanto que a frequência permanece em constância. (pt) Als Shoaling (englisch gesprochen [ʃəʊlɪŋ]) oder Shoaling-Effekt wird im Küstenwasserbau die gleichzeitige Verringerung der Wellenlänge und Vergrößerung der Wellenhöhe bezeichnet, die beim Einlaufen einer Tiefwasserwelle in einen Flachwasserbereich der Küste zu beobachten ist. (de) El asomeramiento es el efecto producido en las ondas del mar (oleaje) al reducirse notablemente la altura del fondo marino a su llegada a la costa. Se produce a partir de que la ola alcanza profundidades menores a la mitad de su longitud de onda, disminuyendo su velocidad de propagación y la longitud de onda, pudiendo disminuir o aumentar su altura y en general adquiriendo mayor peralte. (es) Dalam dinamika fluida, pendangkalan gelombang (bahasa Inggris: shoaling) merupakan efek perubahan tinggi gelombang air ketika ombak merambat pada perairan yang lebih dangkal. Dalam kondisi stasioner, penurunan kelajuan transpor harus disertai dengan kenaikan kerapatan energi supaya fluks energi tetap konstan. Panjang gelombang yang mengalami pendangkalan akan berkurang, sementara frekuensinya akan tetap konstan. (in) In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves, entering shallower water, change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the group velocity, which is also the wave-energy transport velocity, changes with water depth. Under stationary conditions, a decrease in transport speed must be compensated by an increase in energy density in order to maintain a constant energy flux. Shoaling waves will also exhibit a reduction in wavelength while the frequency remains constant. (en) |
| rdfs:label | Shoaling (de) Asomeramiento (es) Pendangkalan gelombang (in) Shoaling (it) Shoaling (nl) Empolamento de onda (pt) Wave shoaling (en) |
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