36 Hours in Phoenix (original) (raw)

A scene from downtown Phoenix. Credit...David Kadlubowski for The New York Times

Nov. 27, 2008

LIKE the myth behind its namesake, Phoenix seems to have come out of nowhere to rank as the nation's fifth largest city. Even long-timers have a tough time explaining the city's appeal. Phoenix has left no firm mark in pop culture, aside from a bit role in the opening shot of “Psycho.” The list of famous area residents is rather short: Barry Goldwater, John McCain, Jordin Sparks are among the better known. And the city is an inferno in the summer. The other nine months of the year, however, are gorgeous and sunny, making it a perfect time to visit the city's new bounty of top-notch golf courses, fashionable resorts, eye-opening museums and cool night life.

Friday

3 p.m.
1) MYSTERY CASTLE

All sorts of people, some of them rich and famous, once flocked to Phoenix for health reasons, at least before smog became a big problem. But perhaps none was stranger than Boyce Luther Gulley, an architect from Seattle, who arrived in 1930 to recover from tuberculosis and, while he was at it, built a “castle” largely from found objects. His daughter, Mary Lou, now elderly, occasionally helps out on tours of what is known as Mystery Castle (800 East Mineral Road, 602-268-1581), a trippy monument to Mr. Gulley's imagination. The home is adorned with all sorts of stuff, including tree branches for chairs, crooked windows and Indian artifacts.

6 p.m.
2) TACOS AND MARIACHI

The border is just three hours away by car and more than a third of the city's residents are Latino, so Mexican food rules. Phoenicians argue over the best restaurants, much the way New Yorkers debate pizza, but it is hard to top Garcia's Las Avenidas (2212 North 35th Avenue, 602-272-5584; www.garciasmexicanfood.com), a family-run restaurant known for its traditional menu and cavernous setting. A mariachi band often drifts from table to table, belting out ballads. No, the menu is not daring, but the plates come heaping with home-style favorites like tacos and enchiladas that won't damage the wallet. The juicy Carnitas de Puerco ($9.50) are worth a try.

9 p.m.
3) HOLLYWOOD IN PHOENIX

The juggernaut of downtown construction — which includes a convention center expansion, a hotel and condominiums — has spared a few jewels, including the historic Hotel San Carlos (202 North Central Avenue, 602-253-4121, www.hotelsancarlos.com). Hollywood stars like Mae West and Marilyn Monroe slept in this 1928 Italian Renaissance-style landmark, which still exudes an air of European refinement. Patrons today take their drinks to the rooftop pool and relax under the stars — the ones in the sky, that is.

Saturday

8 a.m.
4) SOUTHWEST OMELET

Locals will invariably steer you to Matt's Big Breakfast (801 North First Street, 602-254-1074, www.mattsbigbreakfast.com ), a popular diner that serves heaping plates of Chop and Chick (that's cutesy for a pork chop and eggs, 8.50).Buttheplaceistinyandthelineoutsidecanbeunbearableintheheat.AmorecleveroptionistowaituntilbrunchisservedattheWelcomeDiner(924EastRooseveltStreet,602−495−1111;open11a.m.to3p.m.),afewmileseastandseveraldecadesbackintermsofdeˊcor.It′sthetypeofplacewherethecookchatsyourearoffwhileservingupsimple,countertopfarelikeafriedeggsandwichonsourdough(8.50). But the place is tiny and the line outside can be unbearable in the heat. A more clever option is to wait until brunch is served at the Welcome Diner (924 East Roosevelt Street, 602-495-1111; open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), a few miles east and several decades back in terms of décor. It's the type of place where the cook chats your ear off while serving up simple, countertop fare like a fried egg sandwich on sourdough (8.50).Buttheplaceistinyandthelineoutsidecanbeunbearableintheheat.AmorecleveroptionistowaituntilbrunchisservedattheWelcomeDiner(924EastRooseveltStreet,602−495−1111;open11a.m.to3p.m.),afewmileseastandseveraldecadesbackintermsofdeˊcor.It′sthetypeofplacewherethecookchatsyourearoffwhileservingupsimple,countertopfarelikeafriedeggsandwichonsourdough(4). Granted, it's not exactly roomy, either, but there's usually no wait and the running banter can't be beat.

10 a.m.
5) REBORN BUNGALOWS

You won't confuse it with SoHo, but some marketers are trying to brand the burgeoning cultural scene in central Phoenix as, um, CenPho. A cluster of galleries, boutiques and restaurants have opened in rehabilitated bungalows along once-forlorn Roosevelt Street, where you'll find exquisitely torn clothing and artwork by the up-and-coming — or came-and-went. Start at Made Art Boutique (922 North Fifth Street, 602-256-6233; www.madephx.com), an eclectic boutique that carries vintage magazines, ceramics and jewelry. Farther up the street is Conspire (901 North Fifth Street, 602-237-5446; www.conspirephoenix.com), featuring the works of local clothing designers and artists and a coffee bar to boot.

Noon
6) BOUGIE BILTMORE

Shopaholics may want to check out the recently remodeled Biltmore Fashion Park (24th Street and Camelback Road, 602-955-1963; www.shopbiltmore.com), a largely open-air mall that has about 70 high-end shops, including Cartier, Cole Haan and Ralph Lauren. If that puts you in the mood for more elegance, head for the nearby Arizona Biltmore Resort and Spa (2400 East Missouri Avenue, 800-950-0086; www.arizonabiltmore.com), a 39-acre oasis of garden and green where rooms start at about $300. You don't have to stay here to walk the grounds and take in the Frank Lloyd Wright-influenced architecture and stunning gold-leaf ceiling.

2 p.m.
7) BEANS AND ART

A sure sign that Phoenix is hip, or getting there, is the rich espresso and other caffeinated delights at the Lux coffee bar (4404 North Central Avenue, 602-266-6469; www.luxcoffee.com), a cheery spot for a midday pick-me-up. The baristas will gladly explain how the specially picked beans are roasted on-site in an old Victoria Lido roaster. But the austere, metallic décor and frequent art shows are just as inviting.

3 p.m.
8) UGLY PAST

American Indian culture runs deep here, with several active tribes and reservations in the region. Just about all of them have contributed displays or material to the Heard Museum (2301 North Central Avenue, 602-252-8848; www.heard.org), renowned for its collection of Native American art. It has won high marks for an exhibit on Indian boarding schools, which captures the little-known experience of thousands of children bused, sometimes forcibly, from their reservations to government schools in order to erase their culture and “civilize” them. Haunting photographs, old uniforms, oral interviews and memorabilia offer a powerful look at this chapter in history.

6 p.m.
9) FLASHY DRINKS

Phoenicians love a good meal as much as the next city slicker, but apart from the posh parlors at the many country clubs, this is a laidback town. No wonder, then, people flock to Binkley's (6920 East Cave Creek Road, 480-437-1072; www.binkleysrestaurant.com), where topflight contemporary American cuisine with a slight French influence can be enjoyed in golf shirt and shorts. Allow extra time to get there: it is 35 miles north of downtown Phoenix and traffic can be unforgiving. The location, a mini-mall with a rent-a-car outlet, may seem uninviting, but the chef, Kevin Binkley, who was among the top 20 contenders this year for a James Beard award, is full of surprises. The amuse bouche is a specialty and Mr. Binkley serves them serially, one more exotic than the other. The last was a piña colada lava lamp, a pineapple consume with simulated caviar served on a brightly flashing coaster. By comparison, the bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin ($38) may seem a little pedestrian, but it doesn't disappoint.

10 p.m.
10) DANCING WITHOUT STARS

If you've never been in a music video, but always wanted to know what it felt like, make your way to the Sky Lounge (132 East Washington Street, 602-229-1110; www.skyloungephoenix.com), a Latin club with a busy dance floor and very fit people. If rock is preferred, one intriguing place is Alice Cooperstown (101 East Jackson Street, 602-253-7337; www.alicecooperstown.com), named after the shock rocker and Phoenix resident Alice Cooper. Food, drinks and live bands. The servers wear “Alice eyes” make up. Need we say more?

Sunday

10 a.m.
11) URBAN DESERT

Phoenix is surrounded by desert, but if marching through the hot, dry plains doesn't sound appealing, stop by the Desert Botanical Garden (1201 North Galvin Parkway, 480-941-1225; www.dbg.org ). Spread across 50 acres in Papago Park, the garden is an oasis of towering cacti, redolent flowers and surprisingly verdant plants in the middle of the urban grid.

BASICS

Several airlines serve Sky Harbor International Airport in Phoenix, including JetBlue, Continental and US Airways. Round-trip fares from Kennedy Airport in New York start at around $350 for travel in January. Renting a car is a must, but be forewarned: you'll need to take the rental car shuttle after collecting your bags to get to the rental center.

For luxury, check into the Arizona Biltmore Resort and Spa, which offers a choice of eight swimming pools, a golf course and well-reviewed restaurants. Rooms start at $300, depending on the season, and go much higher.

Less touristy is the Royal Palms Resort (5200 East Camelback Road, 602-840-3610, www.royalpalmshotel.com), which manages to offer a measure of seclusion amid the city's sprawl. Palms, gardens and fountains abound, transporting guests from the surrounding hubbub. Rates start at $400.

Kinder on the wallet, but much less secluded is the new Sheraton Phoenix Downtown (340 North Third Street, 602-262-2500; www.sheratonphoenixdowntown.com), a 31-story, 1,000-room tower with modern conveniences like flat-screen TVs, speedy Wi-Fi connections and contemporary décor. Rooms start at about $200.

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