Sciliar : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost (original) (raw)

Overview

Schlern plateau with...Schlern Plateau

Schlern / Monte Sciliar is one of the best known mountains of South Tyrol / Alto Adige and the Dolomites. Its reputation is not due to it's impressive height (which isn't - just some 2500m +) but to the situation as westernmost bastion of the Dolomites, dropping some 2000m towards the Eisack Valley / Valle d'Isarco and Bozen / Bolzano. Also, its shape is unique: a long stretched plateau which suddenly drops vertically on almost all sides. On the northwestern side two huge towers are located - Santner and Euringer - which make the mountain distinguishable from almost any point.

Moreover, Schlern / Sciliar is something of a landmark for South Tyrol / Alto Adige. Even though there are many higher or impressive mountains like Ortler / Ortles, Weißkugel / Palla Bianca or Pflerscher Tribulaun, emotionally Schlern / Sciliar seems to be at the heart of the locals. If you happen to be in the region at the summer solstice and happen to witness the old tradition of "Johannisfeuer", wher huge pires are burned at the base of Santnerspitze / Punta Santner you get a notion of the mystic quality of the mountain. Also, its plateau has been used for farming even in prehistoric times. Several sites have been found, one near the Burgstall / Monte Castello Summit, another near Roterdspitze / Cima di Terrarossa.

As if this weren't enough, Schlern / Sciliar has also been chosen to name the particular type of rock, it consists of: Schlern-Dolomite. It is a type of limestone, similar to what is called Wetterstein-Limestone in the northern Alps but containing a certain amount of dolomite. This type of rock makes up the base of many of the groups of the western Dolomites, namely Pale di San Martino, Latemar, the Geisler / Odle Group, Rosengarten / Catinaccio and Schlern / Sciliar. In general it is rather brittle, resulting in the spectacular towers you can find in these specific groups.

While here on SP (after long discussions) Schlern / Sciliar has been attached to the Rosengarten / Catinaccio Group, in German speaking literature it is considered its own group, thrown in together with Roßzähne / Denti di Terrarossa and Seiser Alm / Alpe di Siusi, Europe's highest and largest mountain pasture. The massiv starts in the east as a single, narrow ridge, which is formed by the towers of Roßzähne / Denti di Terrarossa. After Roterdspitze / Cima di Terrarossa the ridge turns into a broad plateau, which further to the west splits into three distinct ridges:

There are more but smaller summits, which barely make it onto topographic maps but which neverthelesss offer some fine climbing routes (see next section). Especially the two northern towers, Santnerspitze / Punta Santner and Euringerspitze / Punta Euringer have been climbed very early on. In 1880 Johann Santner climbed the east face of "his" tower (UIAA III) while four years later Gustav Euringer und Giovanni Battista Bernhard reached Euringerspitze from its south face (also UIAA III). Additionally, quite a number of long routes can be found on the Burgstall / Monte Castello north and west faces.

In winter some of the waterfalls beneath the Schlern / Sciliar north face regularly accumulate enough ice to offer ice climbing options. There are some half dozen waterfalls, some of which reach heights of several hundred metres. See under "External Links" for more information.

Summit Panorama

Summit panorama towards Roßzähne, Marmolada and Rosengarten Group

Routes Overview

Seiser Alm / Alpe di SiusiSeiser Alm / Alpe di Siusi seen from Burgstall

### Hiking Routes

There is a multitude of hiking trails which surround the mountain and which can be combined in different ways to reach the summit. If you start at any of the surrounding villages elevation gains are huge. Völs / Fié for instance is located at some 900m while the Petz / Pez summit reaches 2564m. Thus, the most popular hike is the one from Seiser Alm / Alpe di Siusi, which you can reach by cable car. But even Touristensteig (tourist trail) scales roughly 1000m. Most, if not all routes combine near the Schlernhäuser / Rifugio Bolzano mountain hut, some 100m beneath the summit of Petz / Monte Pez.

BurgstallBurgstall and the Roßzähne-Ridge

### Alpine Routes

The west and north faces of Schlern show a number vertical walls, on which numerous routes have been developed. Most prominent is Santnerspitze / Punta Santner but there are also quite a number of routes on the Burgstall /Monte Castello north face. Routes can be found on the following features / summits:

For more information including single routes have a look at the following link:
Schlern Alpin - klettern am Wahrzeichen Südtirols

Getting There

Part of Schlern's popularity stems from the fact that it is easily accessible. It is very close to the Brenner Motorway A22 and depending on the place you want to use as headquarter (or from where you arrive) you turn of either at the exit Waidbruck /Ponte Gardena to the north or at the exit Blumau /Prato to the south.

There are a lot of possibilities to stay in the region - I can recommend any village on the balcony beneath the mountain. It probably depends on your other destinations:

Red Tape: The Natural Park Schlern - Rosengarten / Sciliar-Catinaccio


Google Terrain map of the Natural Park Schlern - Rosengarten / Sciliar - Catinaccio

In 1974 the complete region of Schlern / Sciliar and parts of Seiser Alm / Alpe di Siusi was protected by a newly established natural park. Since 2003 it has been extended to include parts of the Rosengarten / Catinaccio group so that the park now contains some 7300ha. Within park boundaries any building activities are prohibited. Flowers, berries, mushrooms, minerals have to be left in their environment. Camping is prohibited and cars have to be parked in the official lots. Moreover between May and October the roads may not be used for car traffic - the hotels, huts and farms are excepted, however.

Accomodation

The Schlernhäuser in front of...Schlernhäuser and Rosengarten

### Villages

Eisacktal / Valle Isarco

Grödner Tal / Val Gardena

Weather conditions

Maps & Books

Books:

Maps:

Schlern Alpin - klettern am Wahrzeichen Südtirols

Images