Lionel Dunsterville Diary (original) (raw)

January 1st Monday.
The usual Proclamation Parade and the regiment marched by very well.

January l6th
An epidemic of dinner parties. I have handed over the Church to Major Adye, 87th Punjabis, but I still take the services when the padre is not here. Christmas has left us very hard up, not a sou in the house. Debts are a nuisance, and what I might save is eaten up by interest on loans.

February 10th
Miss Mitchell died on February 1st, rather suddenly. A girl out from home having a good time and staying here with the Nicholsons for a few days. Grace of the Cavalry is being married next week and 2 of the Hanmer children are to be train-bearers. Daisie asked Galfrid if he wasn't rather disappointed at not being a train-bearer, and he said: "Oh, no, when Daddy dies and you marry again, I'll carry your train for you!"

February 15th
We are riding to-day with the Bomfields' party for a Picnic to Rotas fort.

Daisy and the rest of the family keep well. I am well except for the perpetual pain in liver, which must be an abcess after all this time. I often feel very much like the Jhelum Cemetery and it cheers me to see how the building of the Lych Gate has improved it.

February 27th
Hockey week begins to-morrow - It is Lent also of course, but unfortunately in India Lent is always in March and that is the only month we can be gay in. After the winter work is over and before the real bad heat begins.

March 8th
Hockey Week finishes to-day. The theatricals were good and the Chestnut troupe "Dairy Maids" were a great success. Daisy was a Dairy Maid and I had the stage Management. The Choruses were deafening. The other Dairy Maids were Mrs. Dawson, Mrs. Dyke, Miss Fox-Strangeways, Miss Carroll, Mrs. Marshall-Smith, 87th, Mrs. Whitchurch, 21st Cav.

March 15th
My liver gives me incessant pain and I am going to try to cure it thoroughly if I can get to Sonamarg. The endless pain in my liver causes me to dwell rather on it and my diary will become like Wagner's letters to his wife Minna, ¾ accounts of cures and symptoms!

March 25th
A new period of life begins with me to-day. I have started my magnificent gold spectacles. I do not feel that I need them, but I certainly feel an improvement in reading when using them. [pencilled note: still using them Jan 1923]

March 31st
Packing up for Kashmir. We are off in 10 days time if nothing occurs to upset plans, but there is always the chance of an expedition in Waziristan - probably not till the Autumn. Becker returns to Murree to-morrow, and we have no parson for Easter, which is sad, but cannot be helped, I am taking the Easter Services and we are singing an Anthem.

April 11th
The house is gradually getting stripped and we are all very uncomfortable. Daisie does the work of 6 men.

April 12th
We got off at 1 a.m. on Thursday, in our reserved carriage and reached Pindi 6.30 a.m. Saw Mrs. Anstey and had tea, left 7.30 and arrived Murree 12.45, very quick, road good and horses fresh. Our kit was to have come on ekkas, but they could get none, so we have to do the best we can with what Miss Key lends us. Galfrid was very ill for a day or two, 103º and sickness and is in bed now, but cheerful and getting better. I am doing a sort of modified cure, and eating very little. The spring water here is ripping. I have been a teetotaller for a month and non-smoker for a fortnight. The first is very easy. The second very difficult. I long for a smoke.

April 20th
What a sleepy hollow India is compared to the rest of the world. These 3 big ship-wrecks have startled people, 2 P & O's, the Delhi and the Oceana, and now the gigantic Titanic with 1,400 people sunk in the Atlantic. Germany practically declares War on England every day and the fat English people won't see it or do anything to increase their tiny army.

April 29th
Up at 6.0. Tea at 7.0. Left in our tonga at 8 a.m. for Kashmir. Daisie, myself, Rose, Galfrid and baby. We arrived Kohala at 11.40 and stayed there for a big breakfast. Left again at 12.50 and got to Domel at 3.45, where we stayed for the night. The bungalow was fearfully crowded and I slept in the verandah. Kohala was, of course, very hot and the drive to Domel was not pleasant. Just ahead of us on the road, down to Kohala, the mail tonga with all the mails on board, went over the precipice and fell about 200 ft. It is wonderful how people escape. The syce was unhurt, the coachman cut his face and head badly and one horse had to be shot.

I had just been telling Rose that tongas had often tumbled down here and I fancy it made her a little uncomfortable.

April 30th
Left Domel 8 a.m. Arrived Garhi 9.30 had breakfast there, left at 10.30, arrived at our destination Uri, at 4.30,. but bungalow was full so had tea and went into Rampur, arrived 6.45.

Before Uri it began to rain. I was disgusted to find the bungalow full, and the prospect of Rampur equally so, but when we arrived we found it nearly empty. A brand new bungalow built to replace the one that was burnt down. Susanna stands the journey very well and is quite cheerful. Galfrid also enjoys himself.

May 1st
Got up at 7 and had breakfast 8.30. Left 9.16. Arrived Baramula, where our 4 doongas were waiting for us, at 11.15 a.m. As soon as we could settle up everything, we got on the move. At about 6 p.m. one of those very violent storms came on - Just as well it was still daylight. We tied up to the bank for the night in a fairly sheltered place, but all the side mats blew all over the place, and the rain drove in everywhere, beds wet and so on, very cold. However, all was well, and we turned in about 10.0., and got warm. Susan has given up her 10 p.m. bottle, I'm glad to say. so we can turn in when we like. She didn't mind being carried in the night through the wet from one boat to another and she slept like a top.

May 2nd
Cloudy and nasty. Started off about 6 a.m., passed Dubgao at 8.30. I told them not to hurry, but we have one extra man on each big boat to help pull. Daisie and I live in 1 doonga, Rose and Galfrid and Susanna in the other, the servants in 1 cook boat, and the kitchen in another. It is nice and peaceful on the water and very comfortable, but not so cheerful with a cold grey sky and drizzle as it would be if the sky were blue.

They certainly took me at my word about not hurrying, as we got no further than Sopoor which we reached at 12, noon. They said it was dangerous to go on, so we remained moored to the dirty bank while it rained all day long. I set our boat on fire with a lamp after dinner, and put it out just in time. The central beam was well alight and in another two minutes the whole matting roof would have been in a blaze and nothing could have stopped it.

May 3rd
Grey sky, but no wind. Started off 5.30 a.m., 20 boats in a heap, I do hate a dirty crowd like that - Kashmir is certainly getting very beastly.

One or two events I forgot to record.

i Earthquake in Murree on April 25th, quite a sharp shock at 4 p.m.

ii Earthquake April 27 night, slight shock.

iii Found and stole a crested silver spoon at Domel Oak bungalow as a keep-sake. Found the owner later and returned it to Mrs. Bartholomew.

Arrived Shadipore 4 p.m., and on till 7 p.m. and anchored on the right bank. Weather fine and the family cheerful. Galfrid ran and paddled the whole afternoon and got nice and wet and muddy.

May 4th
Started about 5.a.m. Had breakfast on the right bank, reached Chenar Bagh canal at 12.15, had lunch. Tied up our boats alongside Toodles and Betty, Daisie's nieces, in the Chenar Bagh.

May 11th
We left Srinagar 10.30 a.m. Fine and hot, reached Pampur 6.45 p.m., no extra men towing. Irises are beautiful, no other flowers, the panorama is fine, as the snow is low down and plentiful. It is delight to get from that over-crowded social pig-sty Srinagar, into the pleasant calm up river. There are lots of boats on the move, but so far have met no one.

May 12th
Very hot and the flies are simply awful. Started 6 a.m. Tiffin at Lattapur, passed Awantipur 4.30, had tea and went on beyond Larikpur for the night at 6.45.

May 13th
Baby, of course, ill with fever and diarrhoea, Galfrid also, so I suppose we shall have to go straight back to Srinagar. Reached Bij Behara at tea-time 4.30., having just escaped a storm that delayed us a little. Met some nice people, Major and Mrs. Bartholomew' with a baby, Worcester Regiment (Gave them back their spoon).

May 14th
It is peaceful and quiet here and we are very happy. Galfrid and I rowed about in the morning. In the afternoon we did some packing and re-arranging. We have adopted a hen and christened her Maria – or rather she adopted us. She was bought for our food and when we were sitting on the bank 2 days ago at sunset, came and sat with us. I picked her up and put her in Daisie's lap to which she raised no objection. She hangs about our feet all day and never talks to any of the other birds. I couldn't find her at bed-time this evening, but just now discover her at my feet, sleeping peacefully on the boat in the dining-room on a coil of rope and blinking at the bright lamp I have brought in with me. She certainly is too intelligent a bird ever to be eaten.

May15th
It is not unmixed bliss that Rudyard Kipling immortalized me as Stalky in "Stalky & Co." I am always expected to do or say something quite unusual, and I really do not feel myself to be built that way. In China the Americans and Australians were always waiting in vain to see or hear me do something.

Baby's diarrhoea continues, though it has no other bad symptoms.

Bij Behara is delightful and there are only ourselves and the Bartholomews here - but the flies all over Kashmir this year are maddening.

May 16th
Immediately after breakfast, 10 a.m., we set sail for Srinagar, a day earlier than we had intended on account of baby, who gets worse and worse. Children very anxious things. Cloudy day and not too hot. Had all meals on the move. Reached 1 mile above Pampur 7.45 p.m.

May 17th
Baby seems to be worse so I am glad we have arrived Reached Munshi Bagh 11 a.m. The river is no place for babies. Met Toodles and Bettie. Camped just inside the gate of the upper canal leading to Dal Gate, just below Club.

May 18th
Big storm and flood. Daisie and I went up the Takht-i-Suleiman before breakfast, cloudy and no view. To be married to a woman you love is unalloyed bliss, and the possession of nice children makes others envious, and certainly no children could be nicer than ours, but as blessings they are not quite unmixed. One does not grudge the expense of children and the numerous things we have to deny ourselves that childless people revel in, but they are such an anxiety. We came in here because Susanna was ill, and she is still ill, in spite of the doctor's powders. Galfrid has now collapsed and lies in bed with a temperature of 102.2º. From home we hear that in addition to having his teeth wrong poor Leo has to wear spectacles, they suspect him of having one leg shorter than the other and fear, in addition, a predisposition to pulmonary complaints! Poor child! but he seems happy enough.

May 20th
The river rose 10 feet in 8 hours, but the flood passed off well. The road is broken to pieces and the mails can't get through. Still cloudy. Galfrid all right and up. Daisie and I had lunch and tea with Toodles, who tried to shock us by telling vilely improper stories. But she is young and nice and can improve if her husband, Percy, takes enough interest in her to help her. It is dreadful to be young, but it is a disease that time cures. [pencilled note: Divorced later]

May 22nd
Baby gets constantly worse, but is very cheerful. Certainly children are an appalling nuisance. Toodles and Betty spent yesterday with us, and I felt at least a year older at the end of it. Very young people - over 10 years - make one feel rather pessimistic. Was one ever really quite as inane as that oneself at any period of ones life? I suppose so. We were to have left to-day for Manasbal, but baby's illness upsets our plans.

May 24th
I had fever last night and sat up most of the time in the room with our chicken, Maria, who is dying very slowly. It is melancholy work at 2 a.m., with fever in a doonga, pouring rain and ones only companion a dying chicken! Daisie, as usual, is the only one who survives. At intervals she takes my temperature and then gets Susanna to sleep - she has very little rest herself. It rained and blew all night and it rained all to-day. Galfrid has fever and really things are not looking very rosy.

May 26th
Medium fine weather now and we are all cheerful, Galfrid is all right and baby is much better. We start to-morrow at daybreak and hope to reach Ganderbal by nightfall. We are all dying to say goodbye to the dirty over-crowded river and get on the march.

May 27th
We 1eft at about 5.30 a.m., and reached Shadipore at about 12.15 - 2 extra men on each boat and one for each cook boat. From Shadipore through the Anchar lake, beautiful white water-lilies. Arrived Ganderbal 6.45 p.m., not many people there and got a nice place for our boats.

May 29th
37 ponies - 6 dandy coolies - 2 tiffin coolies – 8 riding coolies. We got Rose and Galfrid and the baby off at 7.45 a.m., but had to stay behind 2 hours ourselves to get more ponies. We caught them up at 12.30, and had our picnic breakfast. Very hot this march. Camp Kanjem. Flies terribly bad. Rained a little in camp and blew at night. Daisie and I walked all the way. Rose rode and walked.

May 30th
Tea at 7 a.m. Got off about 8 a.m. Daisie is not very fit. Arrived Surphrar and cooked breakfast 11.30 a.m. Weather fine. Arrived Gund 2.45.

May 31st
Started with fine weather at 7.45 a.m. Snow on last half of roadway very heavy indeed. The road was quite buried and we had to scramble over snow slides. Daisy rode most of the way. I got into camp at 2.30 and found it half under snow. Before we could pitch tents cold rain began, just managed to pitch 2 tents in the mud, in which we passed the night, turning in at 8.30 p.m.

June 1st
A glorious fine day, we managed to dry our kit, dig away snow and get platforms ready, pitched the big mess tent which is a blessing. Did a lot of digging and of course my soft hands got very sore. No milk or butter. Galfrid still very bad and baby no better.

June 2nd
Another fine day. Daisie and I worked from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., without stopping and my hands are split to pieces. Clearing snow off the tent platforms, leveling, dishing drains and starting the garden - We sowed all the seeds to-day and hope to see some sprouts in a week's time. Galfrid is better, but Susanna is still bad, though very jolly and cheerful.

June 4th
Each day is fine with an evening storm from 4 to 7, and fine night. The storms have so far, only brought just a sprinkling of rain. I have had to stop work for a bit as my hands are so swollen. I certainly was not built to be a navvy. We got into our proper sleeping tents yesterday on the platforms that 2 days ago had snow on them - I shovelled the snow off and drained them and they were fairly dry. Hard work, no smoke and no drink. Keeps me fit, but dirt, discomfort and fatigue are bad for the temper. At last to-day we managed to get decent baths in comfort.

June 6th
The cows have twice dug up my garden and I am working hard digging the ditch to keep them out. Daisie does the road making and we each of us do at least 8 hours spade work a day. The snow is melting fast – weather keeps splendid. Galfrid quite fit again - Susanna better.

June 9th
We gave ourselves a day of rest and let our poor hands have a chance of healing. Other flowers now appearing, Forget-me-not, wall-flower, dwarf Iris, white Corydalis, violets and several labiates. Yesterday we completed the garden ditch and engineered the water into it, it has been running now for 24 hours and is quite full, beginning to top over the bank and run down the meadow. When we return to civilised life in England, will one recall with regret, in the midst of frousty humanity, the days when one lived this wild life in tents in the very heart of Nature, forests, glaciers, gales, snow, hail, torrents, rocks, cliffs, huge peaks, and wonderful meadows with heavenly flowers. The simple life indeed, with no tobacco, and milk instead of whiskey! [pencilled note: Yes we long for it - Jan 1923]

June 13th
Got the flagstaff up and it looks very smart. Also dug out a second bed for seeds. Cows made two attacks on garden, but baffled by water - a great success. Susanna much better, thank God, and we are all flourishing. The air is magnificent and I do not at all miss my Whiskey and my smokes, in fact, I now never think of either of them.

June 15th
Daisie and I did another 180 paces of pathway, making now 500 in all - a good deal more to do still to complete the circular road. A splendid fine day.

June 16th
Another glorious day. Life seems very near to Paradise on Earth in spite of money difficulties. I commence my cure on Friday and the book says I shall feel pessimistic. At present I am very much the reverse. Went up the Thejwaz nullah before breakfast with Galfrid to find the red primula and show him a snow bridge. Again in the evening with Daisie going further, crossing by the snow bridge upper and again home by the lower one.

June 17th
Beautiful weather. More road-making. Our total road length when completed, is about 700 paces or something under 600 yards, a little over 3 ft. broad up hill and down dale.
June 18th

Couldn't resist the temptation of a road from my sleeping hut to the office another 100 paces, making 800 altogether. I pitched my office tent to-day on the higher platform and have a lovely view from there. The snow had just melted. Just below me, between the office and the bed-room tent, still remains a large block of the winter snow that will take a week to melt. Galfrid in bed, a little seedy, probably eating too many cherries.

June 19th
Fine day again but occasional showers which we liked for the garden's sake. Dug out and prepared the third bed and brought in the upper irrigation channel for the fernery - precious hard work, but my hands have got hard now and the splits have healed. Daisie, of course, works two to my one and keeps very fit.

June 20th
Finished up all work, did the fourth bed in the garden and completed the upper irrigation. The last lump of snow, just below my office tent, will melt to-morrow.
June 21st

First day of the Carlsbad cure - very hungry work. Found the yellow violet out rather early, also Anemone, narcissi flora, gooseberry, currant and raspberry, all down by the lower Thejwaz stream. Also came across a Bara Sing in the middle of the open meadow, not 200 yards from our tents, a very unusual occurence. Yesterday I assisted a native lady to find a camp - I now find she is the famous Rukmabai or some such name. Refined and pleasant.

June 22nd
A beautiful day - The usual storm at 5 p.m., lasted one hour, no rain. Mrs. Rukmabai came to call on Daisie. We walked after breakfast, up to the Gujars' huts on the spur above camp, about 11,000 feet. Some new flowers - White blossom onion, rhubarb we brought home for the kitchen, as the stalks make a stew for pudding course, and the leaves excellent spinach.

June 23rd
Rain badly wanted all paths are dust and garden drying up. Church in morning, Reverend Cowie, a decent sermon, I read the lessons. More or less a day of rest. Afterwards Daisie and I climbed 1000 feet on to some cliffs. where I knew the Alpine forgetmenots grew and brought some down for the rockery. All doing well and Susanna flourishing but very light - nearly a year old and 18 lbs with all her clothes on! However, she is just beginning to take solid food and may get fatter.

June 24th

Rukmabai called and was interesting, talked philosophy and Vedic Codes and the Christian belief in a God of Love. Afterwards took the Cowies up to the tea-place above camp, they thought it was quite an Alpine Climb and clung on by their eyelids!

June 25th
Before breakfast I took Galfrid up the same place in half an hour and we came down in 12 minutes, about 1000 feet. I am still too strenuous for the cure and must knock off a bit. The fernery is fine.
June 27th

7th day of the cure. Before breakfast climbed 1000 feet with Galfrid up cliffs and home the usual way, a hard climb for him.

June 28th
Glorious fine day, but I want rain - the paths and garden are all dust. Primula Involucrata (scented) by bridge (lower). I did no work all day, but Daisie did, of course. which annoyed me.

June 29th
9th day of cure, feeling rather "Mimsy" like the borrogroves! otherwise well. Temper rather bad. One of the chickens will lay no-where but on my bed and tries to turn me out of it in the early morning. To-day I had to hurry into the bath-room to dress while she deposited her egg on my quilt. Cows have started jumping the moat so now am building a fence.

June 30th
Church 10 a.m. Revd. Cowie S.P.G. Finished the garden-fence, so it is quite safe now. Some wretches camped on our water supply.

July 1st
2 p.m. started for Mt. Sinai with the two Miss Hughes and Brownlow. Daisie and Brownlow reached the top in 3 hours, 5 p.m., i.e. a drop of 600 ft., and a climb of nearly 6000 feet, good going for 3 hours! I and the two Miss Hughes only reached one third of the way up, we made the tea for the others. Found the dwarf rhododendron (anthopogon). The rare Isopyrum grandiflora with beautiful steel-blue-grey flowers and Thalictrum-like leaves. A new primula, mauve to lilac and purple with white centre, very sweet scented (Stuartii) also a Sedum not identified. Primula Denticulata. but pure white, Trollius acantis, Aquilegia Nivalis, Saxifraga rotundifolia. Home by 8' o'clock. I am glad I didn't marry the Miss Hughes, they talk incessantly and about such trifles - shoeing horses on a fishing morning, coachman's ability, illness, childhood, etc. etc. etc. Came home and found the cook and Christie had been quarrelling - one must go, it is a nuisance. My cure goes on, I feel a worm and my liver pains and stomach pains are back again, however, I suppose one must be worse before one is better.

July 2nd
Even here social distractions fritter away one's time. Brownlow came to tea and the evening was wasted - but he is a nice youth. Everything very dry and all the flowers in the meadows are drying up.

July 3rd
Codonopsis ovata. Out with Galfrid, met a lot of little Gujar girls, 6 to 9 years old. pretty, but dirty. They admired Galfrid's pink cheeks very much, stroked his golden hair and patted his turn to see if he was fit.

July 4th
Finishes 2nd week of Carlsbad. Epimedium elatum, Androsace Helvetica, Lagotis Glauca, Lloydia Serotina. Tea on Gujar's Hill about 12,000 ft. Daisie climbed on about another thousand. We took with us Dr. Ernest Never, Revd. and Mrs. Cowie, Rose and Galfrid and Susanna in her chair, strapped onto a coolie's back. Left camp 2 p.m., returned 7.30 p.m. Just escaped a storm, it poured all night, thank goodness. On our return to camp we found Miss Morrison and Miss Mc.Cormick had arrived, they are to stay a month with us.

July 8th
Megacarpaea Polyandra. Climbed No. 1 Glacier. Daisie, Miss Mc.Cormick with Dr. Neve, guide rope and ice axes, left 8 a.m. I left with Galfrid 10 a.m. We ascended to snout of glacier, about 13,000 feet and got lunch ready for when they came down. A good climb for a small boy of 7, 4,000 feet.

July 9th
Mrs. and Miss Pollexfen came to tea - Globe-trotters and frantic suffragettes - they gave us such a doing on the subject of Women's wrongs, etc.

July 10th
To-morrow is the last day of the cure. The diet keeps on till August 1st. It is rather irksome, but there is always some pleasure in doing without things.

July 13th
Somerton Clark arrived. We celebrated Susanna's birthday with tea up 1000 ft. above camp on the Gujar Hill in the big woods. I carried her up and down and she was very cheerful.

July 16th
So far I have felt no good effects from my cure and general self-denial - teetotalism and no smoking, rather the reverse.

July 17th
Start 10, return 5. Up No. 1 Glacier cliffs to West and over the wall. Blue Poppy, big Aster, a beautiful Lactuca, Salvia Hyans, an entirely new microscopic primula. Up to 14,000. A good deal of stiff climbing and I am still very wobbly at the knees. Daisie and I went up different cliffs. Luckily I returned quite by a fluke the same way I went and heard feeble shrieks - Daisie stuck on the cliff and couldn't get down - had been there a long time, poor thing! The blue poppy took some getting. Coolie, on return, fell down and cut his foot and smashed my camera. A very very happy day and just Daisie and I alone for once.

July 19th
Cloudy morning and soft quiet rain. An enormous avalanche last night, 10 p.m., sounded like thunder. I forgot to mention on Wednesday how interesting it was seeing the tons of rocks shooting down from the nose of the glacier.

July 21st
28 people came to Church. An American Presbyterian, Mr. Rice, preached the sermon. At 2 o'clock Daisie and I left on foot for Gund, 14 miles, arrived 7 p.m., after having tea with the Bartholomews at Gugangair, half way. Snow was still lying on the road. At Rewal we found the white pink and the climbing Polygonum. We take a pony between us, but prefer walking all the way.

July 22nd
I forgot to say we are on our way to see my old Hungarian friend, Dr. Stein, the explorer, now Sir Aurel Stein. To-day we marched another 17 miles down the road through Kangan to the 31st milestone, then off, half right through Wusan to Anderwan, about 4 miles. Camped on a tiny spot outside village among Indian corn - not very hot, but flies.

July 23rd
Leave Camp 7.45. Reached Mohand Marg 12 noon. Only coolies, ponies not possible. I forgot to mention yesterday that as the Haro bridge is broken is broken we had to keep the right bank all the way. The new road was rough and a little precipitous, but rather pretty with sort of English lanes. To-day we first did one hour very hot, through Indian corn to base of hill, then straight up 5000 ft. from 6000 to his camp at 11,000, very stiff indeed with sun on back and we were both glad to be at the top and get a hearty welcome. The tiny little marg, with its tiny water supply, is just big enough for one person. Extraordinarily beautiful with blue masses of Cynoglossum and the magnificent blue poppy. Stein, a dear person, very human indeed for a professor and an admirable host.

July 23rd [additional entry?]
Daisie frets after her Susanna! Quiet walks round exploring the place which is very beautiful, but not a patch on Sonamarg and no nice walks or climbs. The view is marvellous. One looks down on the plain, 6000 feet below and all Kashmir spread out like a map before one - Tatakuti, 16,000, in the Pir Panjal to S. and Nanga Parbat 25,000 to N. Srinagar and all the lakes and the Jhelum river. I suppose the finest panorama in the world.

July 24th
Started off at 9 a.m., reached Kangan about 3 or 4 after long rests and meals on the road to spin out the time.

July 25th
To Gund. July 26th left Gund, 7 a.m., arrived Sonamarg 12. noon., 90 miles altogether and glad to be home again.

July 28th
42 people came to church in our compound. There must be at least 60 now in Sonamarg - an awful crowd.

July 30th
Did a Q1 scheme for Creagh. Buchanan arrived. The place is awfully crowded. Strawberries are grand - mushrooms beginning. The Bomfords came to tea.

July 31st
Walked around with Buchanan. Did a scheme with Creagh. Afternoon tea-picnic above camp in wood. I hear Crawford of the 6th Gurkhas shot himself after handing over his regiment - I do not intend to do that. Fox-Strangways died at Jhelum of heat apoplexy the other day. Bill Smithett nearly exploded, but the got him off to the hills packed in ice, just in time.

August 1st
Sonamarg is abominably crowded - it is awful. I am now released from my vows of not smoking or drinking. Since the middle of Lent I have brought one box of cigars which is intact and 2 bottles Whiskey, of which 1½ remain. To-day a single cigar was more than enough treat for me.

August 8th
Another day at home - clouds, but no rain. Killed a snake in camp near the nursery.

August 9th
A splendid day. Picnic up Post Office Hill, its height is about 12,500, Daisie and self, Buchanan, Galfrid and Mr. Rice, a very decent Presbyterian clergyman. Lunch on top, tea at Post Office. Start at 9.0. home at 7.0.

It is sad to see two melancholy husbands whose wives have come to grief, wandering about arm-in-arm. Both are getting divorces - Costello's wife seems to have been more miscellaneous than an animal, and among other experiments has produced a black baby, the offspring of a Rajah! Really I think the Oriental system of purdah and locking women up is the right one after all - the female of the species is not to be trusted with freedom.

August 10th
Galfrid really did splendidly yesterday for a boy of 7, climbing over 3000 ft and down again and out for 10 hours altogether. He was fresh as a lark to-day and off again for an all day picnic.

August 13th
The family all keep wonderfully well - The children are pictures of health. Finances very depressed and looking ahead I really don't see what I can do. Start at 9 a.m. with Daisie and Buchanan for Mount Sinai, easy going, reached top, had lunch 1.30 p.m. Came home 7.30 p.m. Not the least tired after 11 hours with a climb of 4000 ft up and 4000 ft. down home again. Buchanan and I climbed up a big grass slope and then wheeled round to the left to reach the peak. Daisie took a short cut and reached the peak alone, then came back half a mile to lunch, then with us again up the Peak. Found plenty of crystals. For tea Daisie ran on ahead, down about 2000 ft to set the kettle boiling. Buchanan was indignant at my sending her on, but the truth was he had a bad foot and was so slow I thought we would never get anywhere. He said to me "By Jove, Dunsty, you are a lucky fellow, you have drawn a prize, isn't your wife a treasure!" I said yes, I felt sure she was. I think he would have liked to have kissed her! Few men have such a tough little companion who can go anywhere with him and be such a loveable wife into the bargain. Muscular women are generally tough and masculine.

August 17th
A little rain and nice clouds all day. In spite of all my cures and valetudinarianism my pain is worse than it ever has been. More people still, a fearful crowd.

August 18th
Cloudy, but rain held off till evening. 43 people in Church. Susanna is sick and has fever. What a murderous thing Life is. It is so brought home to us in camp where one is surrounded by all the beautiful living things destined for our stomachs. We have a sheep, 8 geese, 14 ducks and about 40 chickens and they are all so friendly in and out of the tents all day long, and with no knowledge of their fate, they love sincerely Daisie and Rose who feed them with a view of later feeding on them. Galfrid is a callous little pig, he has a tame chicken of his own and keeps on asking, "Mummie, when are we going to eat my chicken? I hope he will be nice and fat!". The more one studies any branch of Natural History, the more one sees the futility of individual life, and the absurdity of silly sentiment. The Jain who scrupulously avoids taking life, is still murdering microscopic things which are just as much "Life" as we are, every moment of the day. It is only the question of size. Life is Life, I eat a sheep and he swallows 100,000 microbes - is the Jain better than I am? What we are really taught by Nature - the only lesson - is to fight for our single individual hand - truly a selfish, if necessary, doctrine.

August 20th
Have just heard that I have a year's extension of command which suits me very well, and takes me on to Jan 20th, 1914. I also hear Dr. Hunter-Workman, who passed through the other day, has been killed by an avalanche.

August 25th
30 people in Church, 20 to H. C. Got orders to go to Simla to answer conundrums about the Army-in-India before Lord Nicholson's Committee, so all our plans are upset. Daisie won't stay up here alone. We all leave on September 2nd. It is sad - the garden is just beginning to get interesting.

August 27th
Fine. We dug up our potatoes to-day. They were sown exactly 10 weeks ago, and 3 lbs produced 56 lbs, a pretty good crop.

August 28th
Fine day. Took Rose and Galfrid up Mount Sinai - a climb of about 4,500 feet from the bridge. They both did it splendidly, though Rose sat down a good many times unintentionally. Started 9 a.m. Lunch on top at 1.0. Tea in ravine 4.15. Home at 6.30. Found a beautiful crystal which I gave to Rose. My camera, after I had taken 5 splendid views with it, went down the precipice and exploded on a rock like a bomb-shell. So that's the end of that, alas! A good old camera, was Dora's originally, and we have had it for 11 years - since China.

August 30th
Packing up. Collecting seeds. Marjorie Bomford came to stay all day. Wonderful camp life is. In a damp house you die. Here we have all lived in tents with the ground absolutely sopping, it has never been the least bit dry, and the tent nearly always wet and none of us has had a cold or been anything but very fit.
August 31st

Eating our cabbages - they are very good. And a solitary lettuce. Bomfords came to a farewell Tea. Spent the whole day writing 30 sheets of foolscap - abbreviated replies to 31 questions to be answered before Lord Nicholson's Committee in Simla. The subjects are interesting and all are matters I have thought a good deal over, so glad to give my opinion for what it is worth.

September 2nd
Of course no ponies or coolies turned up and we had to make the best bandobust we could. We got away at last at 10 p.m., with 20 ponies and just enough coolies to carry Susanna's dandy and the tiffin basket. At Gund (14 miles) we went into the bungalow instead of pitching camp, which was a great saving of labour. The rooms are only built with mud walls and no windows, but one wooden shutter that lets in light and air, and publicity. We arrived at 5 p.m., after having a comfortable tiffin on the road near Koolan. Baby very cheerful and Galfrid walked the whole 14 miles, which was splendid for a boy of 7 years old. He was not a bit tired when he got in, but came with me for another walk. Daisie and I walk all the way of course. Rose walked to-day only, and to-morrow she is to have a pony as her feet are sore. We left half our kit behind on the ground at Sonamarg, and goodness knows when it will come along.

September 3rd
Had some difficulties again about ponies and had to go up into the village and threaten everybody before we could make a start. We got up at 5.30 and left at 7.0. Galfrid walked 7 miles at the beginning and 3 at the end, was carried in the dandy 8. Daisie walked the whole way and came in with enormous blisters, but quite cheerful and useful and never ceased working like a slave till it was time to go to bed - she really is a marvel as well as a treasure - no man ever had such a wife.

September 4th
Up at 5.0., started 6.30. Breakfast just outside Ganderbal at 8.30. Tiffin just outside Srinagar 1 p.m. Got into camp 4 p.m., 18 miles - Altogether 50 miles from Sonamarg in a little over 50 hours, very good going for all of us. I am getting old I suppose and felt quite tired. I have never done such an abominable march as Ganderbal to Srinagar. We have always hitherto done it by boat, but were in a hurry this time. The first 5 miles is not so bad over dusty roads and rice-fields, but the last 5 solid miles, bang through the filthy city from one end to the other. Squeezing through the narrow bazars, to the delight of gaping crowds, barking dogs, crowing cocks, squalling children. Myself leading on foot, then 4 coolies, then the dandy with Susanna carried by 4 coolies and attended by Daisie, then Rose riding and Galfrid riding as a rearguard with Babs. Oh the sights, and oh the smells! Poets talk of the balmy odours of the East - what rot - there are always sweet smells of spices etc in Eastern Bazars, but as every street is more or less of a latrine for dogs and human beings the predominant smell is that of a W.C., and one has to be intensely poetic to be able to sniff this up with delight, and speak of it as "romantic". Then 5 miles of road metalled with sharp flinty stones that cut into ones boots, the jostling, smelly crowd, the din of dogs barking. It was Pandemonium! The dust and heat! How Daisie survived it all I don't know. What a blessing to get into camp and have a cup of tea.

September 5th
Eating fruit all day, pears, peaches, figs, plums, apples and grapes. I suppose we shall all be ill, but it doesn't matter. I shall never forget the frightful contrasts of yesterday. Dropping from the beautiful solitudes of Sonamarg, forests, rivers, mountains, glaciers and meadows, plump into that filthy 5 miles of foetid bazar, rank with vile, corrupt and malodorous humanity.

Monday Sept. 9th
Farewell breakfast with the Creaghs. Our tonga left at 11.45 a.m., not hot but rather dusty. Such a load. Daisie and myself, Rose, Galfrid and Susanna. Arrived at Baramula (32 miles) 4.15., left 4.30, reached Rampur 6.30 p.m. Bad luck, dak bungalow absolutely crowded, only one room - I slept in the verandah.

September l0th
Left 6.50, arrived Uri 8.20. Chakoti 10.10. breakfast. Left Chakoti 11.15 arrived Garhi 2 p.m. Left Garhi 2.15, arrived Dulai 5.15. Only one other couple in the bungalow. Nice sands by river for Galfrid and Susanna to play on.

September 11th
Left 7.10. arrived Kohala 8.40. Forest Dell Murree 2.15. Quite nice and cool in Murree. All well, but tired of travelling. Buvkins, the old cat, was delighted to see us and hasn't stopped hysterical purring yet.

September 13th
Tonga ordered for 6.30 a.m., but didn't get away till 7.30 a.m., luckily ponies galloped well, we got down in record time. Met Miss Key on the way up, so glad Daisie won't be 1onely. Not very hot on train. Arrived Jhelum 2.30 p.m. tea in Mess and some work with Adjutant.

September 14th
Left 2.45 p.m. - met Tweddell at Lahore and he and I had dinner together, an excellent meal -

September 15th
Arrived Simla Corstorphanis Hotel in time for lunch. My room is 51, and I find in No. 52 my brother-in-law, Bob Keyworth (who looks matrimonial) a funny coincidence.

September l6th
Engaged passages home for Miss Morrison and the children S/S Umona. Natal Line. Bombay to Weymouth, leaving Oct 11th Poor Daisie will be very sad.

September 17th
The glorious day of the Committee, to which I very much look forward. I most thoroughly enjoyed my answering. The Committee is composed of Field-Marshal Lord Nicholson, Sir William Meyer, a nice little civilian Jew financier, Gen. Sir Percy Lake, Chief of the Staff, Gen. Sir Robert Scallon and Major Richardson as Secretary. They let me talk from 11.0 to 2.0 p.m. and then the Field Marshal took me to lunch at the Club, where I had to drink a big peg and 2 glasses of port which I have not done at that time of day for years - however, it did me no harm I believe. I am not sure that I gave them any very original opinions, but I am sure that I knew my own mind and no amount of cross-examination (chiefly Meyer) made me contradict myself. I now have to stay in Simla till the evidence is printed and I can correct my proofs. Meantime my one idea is to get back to Daisie.

September 18th
Went to Head Quarters about Saxton's case. Spent an hour in the Russian office with Battine who gave me all the latest news. The Persian situation and the Tibetan are sad instances of where we allow the Russians to score off us. Bob went down after lunch. A charming lady here congratulated me on my brother-in-law. The smartest man she had ever seen and "how beautiful in a jacket."

September 20th
Tea with Stoneys - Dinner with the Commander-in-Chief and then to theatre with Lady Greagh: The Little Nichus.

September 25th
At last this trip is over. Packing and paying bills. Left 1.15 with Alexander a Major in the Gunners, who was sea-sick all the way down to Kalka. Not much sleep in the train.

September 26th
At Lahore stayed two hours. Saw Daniell as I passed through Jhelum. Not very hot. Slept at Pindi station.

September 27th
Tonga left 6.45 a.m. reached Murree 12. noon. It was nice to be greeted by the dogs and the cat and Galfrid and the dear Daisie.

September 28th
A quiet day at home. Got a cable announcing the death of my father at Kidlington, aged 83. A fine type of uprightness and morality and a good example to his children, but a man who displayed little love for his family or even affection. Requiescat in Pace.

September 30th
Heard by mail of the death of my brother-in-law, May's husband, Lionel Armitage, a very good fellow and had suffered terribly for years, poor chap! Calamities never come singly.

October 2nd
And so the hour of parting has come. Packing up. Both children behaved like angels. I played a last game of football with Galfrid and he won by two goals to one! These .separations are very sad and poor Daisie will feel very lonely to-night without her Susanna beside her. She is very brave, I think, to submit to it at all. It's bad enough for fathers, but it is terrible for mothers.

October 3rd
Up at 4.30 a.m. The party started punctually at 6 a.m. and in charge of kind Miss Key who takes them all the way to Jhelum. All went off very happily. Galfrid was quite feeling, though he determined not to show it. The house seemed very empty all day.

October 6th
I now find from mail letters that father died on the 17th at 2.30 a.m., and not on the 28th.

October 14th
Toodles and Betty arrived to lunch on Tuesday the 8th. Toodles left this morning for home and Betty remains with us. Toodles is a whirlwind and there is a calm after her departure - she is clever and extraordinarily full of knowledge, but as wild as a cat.

November 1st
We left Murree by moon-light in a fearfully over-loaded tonga, 8½ instead of l½ of luggage. Had a very bad pair of ponies who shied terribly and we were several times nearly over the precipice. The latter ponies were better, but we nearly went over again when the harness broke at full gallop - however, we reached Pindi in under 5 hours. Left by the 11.44 train and reached Jhelum at 2.30. Bettie, I daresay, a little disappointed with the dullness of the place at first sight - hard work unpacking and settling up the house.

November 6th
Local manoeuvres begin to-morrow, with a fight and bivouac. 20th, 37th, 87th, 76th, Yorkshire Regt. King's Royal Rifles, and 21st Cav. Dusty still and water scarce, but not hot any more.

November 9th
Wedding Day! 15 years. Daisie nicer than ever and we are very happy.

After a few days bivouac I find the 19th Yorkshire [pencilled note: Christian] and 60th Rifles [pencilled note: Stuart-Wortley] excellent fellows and the men work splendidly - very different from the army I remember 28 years ago in Malta and Egypt. Christian commanding the Yorks and Stuart-Wortley commanding the 60th, are very good fellows and keen. The 60th Rifles are all Etonians and I must say a good word for Eton - I never knew before how superfine an Eton boy can be.

November 14th
We had a two days' battle with night marching and it was all a terrible fiasco from the Brigadier-point of view. Sir J. Willcocks commanding Northern Army and Sir G. Kitson, commanding the Division were both there to watch and the wretched Mc.Intyre committed every fault possible. To-day I am being examined incommand of an army – look forward to it.

November 23rd
Manoeuvres begin to-morrow when we march to Sohawa. I think all has gone well so far, as far as I and the regiment are concerned and the 20th have a great name. The Yorkshire dined with us on Wed. and the 60th Rifles on the Thurs. Both C.O's are excellent. Christian of the Yorkshire and Stuart-Wortley of the Rifles.

December 3rd
Came back by train from manoeuvres from Sohawa yesterday and the regiment marches in to-morrow. The manoeuvres were rather rotten, but I think my share was all right and I I came back quite pleased with myself. I commanded the brigade most of the time and successfully, the regiment did well and I and the regiment were about the only individuals or corps not sworn at. I liked Stuart-Wortley more than ever, and altogether the 60th were great friends of ours. Ducat and I dined with them. Bettie is ill in bed. I miss Galfrid very much indeed - such a little ripper. And Daisie misses Susanna.

December 18th
Choir very busy practising Carols. Rain at last after clouds for nearly a month, everything was dried to tinder. Bettie is with us and keeps us cheerful. Bob is coming for Xmas, his battery has suddenly been abolished and he is at a loose end - rather hard luck.

Finances are worse than ever - I am quite at my wit ends how to pull through. Bob arrived 4.30 p.m. this afternoon.

Dec. 25th Christmas Day
Jhelum has been fairly gay with two dances and lots of dinner parties so I daresay Bettie is not too dull. Last night she and Bob went to the Club Dance and had a great frolic with the 17th Lancers. Some of their men came round and sang Christmas Carols to us. The children's party at the Club yesterday made us miss our own very sadly. Never mind, they are having a better time at home and Galfrid probably forgetting us both. But he is too good a fellow to do that.

December 31st
Goodbye a good year, welcome the new one. Mrs. Usborne and Mrs. Macintyre are giving a Dance at the Club to see the New Year in and of course we are all going though I would sooner be in bed.

Created: 9 June 2004