View 361 May 9 - 15, 2005 (original) (raw)

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Sunday, May 15, 2005

Slept in late. Maybe that will do the jet lag.

It didn't. I seem doomed to sleep most of the day. Nearly everything is closed on Sundays anyway. Santa Maria de Trastevere was crowded for Pentecost. After Mass an elderly sextant in slacks and a white shirt without necktie went about blowing out candles. No altar boys or girls for that, and no ceremony to it.

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2330: Back from a long walk. It's a 45 minute walk from here up to Castel San Angelo and the Vatican. Trastevere is lively on a Sunday night, very much so. There's a stretch along the river between the Sixtus Bridge and the Mazzini Bridge that has no street lights, and it's about 60 feet down from the walk at street level to the paving stones on the walk at river level. The wall is waist high. No street lamps. Perfect place for an accident. I may make use of it.

The graffiti is heavy here, but it thins as you get close to the Vatican. There's almost none along Conciliation Blvd. and none at all inside the Vatican courtyard. Whether they clean it off, or the police are vigilant, or there is actually some respect being shown by the taggers isn't known to me. It may be thought bad luck to desecrate the Vatican itself. Certainly there's no hesitation to mark up the local churches! Many homeless or campers or both on the marble sidewalks under the arches leading into the Vatican. Some had full kits, backpacks, sleeping bags, some kind of inflatable mattresses; campers undoubtedly. Others looked more like bums. And some in between. The area is well lit, and the police obviously patrol the area so aside from the police themselves it seems reasonably safe, and there may be a deal going, sleep here and cause no trouble and we won't roust you.

There's a military area that seems to have been an Arboretum at one time, and a sign that commemorates those taken off to extermination by the Nazis in 1943. I don't find much in the guide books but the post is guarded.

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