The Silent Streets of Rome (original) (raw)

Introduction

Oxymoron n. Figure of speech with pointed conjunction of seemingly contradictory expressions (The Concise Oxford Dictionary).
The statement silent streets of Rome may seem an oxymoron, but in the XXth century the opening of new streets required by modern life led to the isolation of some streets which still retain some flavour of the past, including the lack of noise.

Clivo dei Publici and Clivo di Rocca Savella

These two streets are called Clivo (slope) because they both ascend the Aventine hill. Clivo dei Publici links [S. Prisca](Vasi57b.html#The Plate) with [S. Sabina](Vasi129.htm#The Plate) and Clivo di Rocca Savella links S. Sabina with [S. Maria in Cosmedin](Vasi56.html#The Plate).

(left) Clivo dei Publici; (inset) dome of Pantheon; (right) gate of Accademia Nazionale di Danza

Clivo dei Publici is named after ager publicus a part of the Aventine the Roman Senate opened to all citizens. In the XVIIIth century the area belonged to monasteries or farms of noble families and the narrow street was flanked by low walls interrupted by fine gates.

Clivo di Rocca Savella

Clivo di Rocca Savella was for centuries the main access to the Aventine and in 1285 with the election of Pope Honorius IVit became one of the most important streets of Rome, because the Pope, a member of the Savelli family, preferred to hold the papal court in Rocca Savella, the family fortress at the top of the street. Today the street is open only in day time and a few steps protect it from becoming a parking lot. The first stretch of the street has on the left side the walls of the fortress.

(left) Gate opposite Rocca Savella; (right) section of the street going down to the river

Only a few locals know that the street leads to S. Maria in Cosmedin and to the river and that it has a very fine view over Rome (Clivo di Rocca Savella is also shown in the image used as background for this page).

Via di Villa Pepoli and Via di S. Balbina

These two streets are located on the lower peak of the Aventine, which today is known as S. Saba, after the [church](Vasi57.html#The Plate) dedicated to this saint.

(left) Entrance to Via di Villa Pepoli; (right) the last section of the street along the [walls of Rome](Vasi10.htm#S. Paolo)

At the beginning of the XIXth century Cardinal Fabrizio Ruffo turned a farm between [Terme di Caracalla](Vasi58.htm#Caracalla's Baths) and the walls into a summer retreat. The Cardinal was a very powerful man, who had personally led the resistance to the French in southern Italy, by organizing the so called Army of the Holy Faith, which eventually defeated, with the help of Horatio Nelson, the Partenopean (of Naples) Republic.

Details of the buildings of Via di Villa Pepoli

In the XXth century the area was split into several parcels in each of which there is now a building (of a limited size), some of which are worth looking at.

Via di S. Balbina in January

Via di S. Balbina is named after a [medieval church](Vasi58.htm#S. Balbina). It was one of the very few streets in this part of the Aventine and it still retains the appearance of a country lane.

Medieval buildings near S. Balbina

At the end of the street there is the entrance to the large medieval buildings adjoining the church, which once were used as a monastery and a hostel for the poor. They still show the medieval technique used for building them with alternate layers of bricks and stones. The tower is a sign of the poor security of this part of Rome during the Middle Ages.

Via di S. Balbina in May

Rampa di S. Sebastianello and Rampa Mignanelli

Scalinata di Trinit� dei Monti is one the most celebrated sites of Rome, but it is not the only access to the church. To its left and to its right there are two other steps, where one can avoid the crowds usually sitting on it.

Rampa di S. Sebastianello

Rampa (flight of steps) di S. Sebastianello was built at the same time as the main steps (1720s) and it was decorated with a large niche designed by Filippo Raguzzini. The coat of arms on its top celebrates the French Royal Family (the Bourbons).

Entrance to Palazzo Mignanelli and Rampa Mignanelli

Rampa Mignanelli is named after Palazzo Mignanelli a late Renaissance palace, currently rented by stylist Valentino. The steps offer an interesting view of the church and of the obelisk.