Augusta Treverorum today's Trier (original) (raw)

- Roman Trier (Bell tower of St. Gangolf's at Trier seen from Porta Nigra)

You may wish to see an introductory page to this section first.

## Rheinisches Landesmuseum of Trier: reconstruction of Roman Trier: A) Porta Nigra; B) Palace/Basilica; C) Kaiserthermen; D) Roman Bridge across the River Mosel

The Treverians aspire passionately to the reputation of being descended from the Germans; since by the glory of this origin, they would escape all imputation of resembling the Gauls in person and effeminacy. Tacitus - Germany - Translation by Thomas Gordon The origin of the town is lost in the times of fable; the favourable position is likely to have early enough attracted settlers. They were included in the Roman Empire, were first heathens, then Christians, were subdued by the Normans and the Franks; and at last the beautiful country was incorporated into the Germanico-Roman Empire. (..) Whoever looks back into the annals of the city will find repeated mention made of warlike devastations committed in this region; the valley of the Moselle, and the river itself, being favourable for the movements of armies. Even Attila, from the farthest east, with his countless host, made both his advance and retreat through the region bordering on this river. (..) The city suffered also more than once from civil wars; as must ever have been the case in episcopal cities, where the citizens could not always agree with the half lay, half ecclesiastical sovereign authority. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe - Campaign in France in the year 1792 - Translation by Robert Farie All who are interested in the beauties of nature and the relics of antiquity, cannot fail to be gratified in ascertaining that, in five days' easy travelling, they may pass from the shores of the Thames to a spot where they may have the opportunity of at once satisfying their curiosity, and gaining instruction by the contemplation of specimens of Roman workmanship, so grand in character, so varied in object, and so perfect in condition, as probably no other locality beyond the Alps would be able to exhibit; specimens which also convey a full idea of the features distinguishing the monuments that adorn the ancient capital of the world. Johann Hugo Wyttenbach - The Stranger's Guide to the Roman Antiquities of the City of Treves - Edited by Dawson Turner - 1838

## Walk along the medieval walls built on the site of the ancient Roman ones near Porta Nigra (see similar walks at Mainz and St. Albans in Britain)

This very ancient city stands on the bank of the Moselle, in a valley of exuberant richness, surrounded by low, vine-clad hills. (..) Julius Caesar, when he first led the Roman armies into this part of Europe, found Treves the flourishing capital of a powerful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of the Romans, rendered them great assistance in conquering the neighbouring tribes. The Emperor Augustus established here a Roman colony, under the name of Augusta Trevirorum, and bestowed on it the privileges of having a senate and magistrates of its own. (..) At later times it was the residence of the emperors, Constantius Chlorus, Constantine the Great, Julian, Valentinian, Valens, Gratian, and Theodosius, and became so eminent in commerce, manufactures, wealth, and extent, and withal so far advanced in learning and the arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived here, calls it the second metropolis of the empire. (..) Treves is at present a decayed town, owing the chief interest it possesses for the traveller, to the Roman remains still existing in and about it. No other city of Germany or northern Europe possesses such extensive relics of the masters of the world. They are not, it is true, in the best style of art, and are remarkable rather for vastness than beauty; and in this respect bear no comparison with the Roman remains in thesouth of France or in Italy. Indeed those who expect to find on the banks of the Moselle anything which will bear comparison with them will certainly be disappointed. They have likewise suffered severely, not only from the Vandalism of the Vandals themselves, but from the prejudices of early Christians, who believed they were doing good service to their religion by effacing all traces of Paganism from the earth. Many of the buildings have been demolished, to furnish materials for modern constructions. John Murray - A Hand-Book for Travellers on the Continent - 1838

## Porta Nigra: external front

The Black Gate, Porta Nigra (Schwartzes Thor) called also Porta Martis, is the most interesting monument of antiquity in Treves; though its architecture, it must be confessed, is heavy, and its proportions ungraceful. Neither its age nor use have been satisfactorily ascertained, but it is reputed (with much probability) to have been built in the days of Constantine the Great, between 314 and 322. It was evidently designed as an ornamental, rather than a defensive, structure. The double gateway, and the numerous windows so near the ground, could not contribute either to resist or annoy an enemy. It is more likely to have been an arch of triumph. Murray Porta Nigra is regarded as the symbol of the Roman presence in Germany.

## Model of Porta Nigra before the French occupation: (left) town side; (right) external side

Like most ancient structures the lower part of it, as far as the tops of the gateways, had been buried in process of time beneath earth and rubbish, so that the entrance to it was by a long flight of steps leading to the first floor. In this state Napoleon found it on his arrival at Treves. It is insinuated, that a want of ammunition, as much as a taste for art, induced him to free the building from its incumbrances, as he went no further than tearing off the thick lead from the roof, which he melted into bullets. The work of improvement has been carried into effect by the Prussian government; the building has been divested of its ecclesiastical character, and restored, as far as possible, to its original condition, the earth having been cleared from its base. Murray A plate by Alexandre de Laborde in the introductory page shows Porta Nigra in ca 1820, after some of the additions made to turn it into a church had been demolished. The remaining evidence of the church is covered in page two.

## Porta Nigra: town front

As far as my observations have extended, I know no buildings so aptly to be compared to our Porta Martis as the two gates of Autun, the Porte d'Arroux and the Porte St. Andr�. (..) Their size, indeed, is less, and they have not the circular termination at either side; but excepting the absence of these members, and of the row of columns below, there is nothing to forbid the idea of both having been constructed upon the same plan. Wyttenbach

## Porta Nigra: details showing the use of engaged (i.e. partly projecting from the wall) columns and pilasters, a characteristic of Roman architecture; see them at Colosseo

It exhibits various marks of the dilapidations of barbarous ages and people. The masonry, of vast blocks of sandstone, rough on the outside, was originally so neatly fitted together, without the aid of cement, that the joints of the stones could scarcely be discerned; but they have been chipped and mutilated at their angles, in order to extract the metal clamps which united them, and now seem to hang together by their corners. Murray Today Porta Nigra, the northern gate of the Roman enclosure, is dated ca 160-200, most likely 170 during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, so well before the time of Constantine. Its purpose was mainly a ceremonial one, as it gave access to a colonnaded street leading to the centre of the town; had it been built by Constantine for the defence of the town, it would have resembled [Porta S. Sebastiano](Vasi10.htm#The Plate) or [Porta S. Paolo](Vasi11.html#The Plate).

## Roman Bridge

The Bridge over the Moselle is most probably the oldest Roman monument in Treves, and founded in the time of Augustus; it is mentioned by Tacitus, and the date of its construction has been fixed by a learned antiquarian about 28 years b. c. It originally stood near the middle of the town, which has gradually dwindled away till it has left it at one extremity. Having resisted the storms of barbaric invasion, and the wild times of the middle ages, it was blown up by the French during the wars of Louis XIV. In consequence, the only ancient parts remaining are the piers of large lava stones. Murray

## Roman Bridge: piers with ledges to support the wooden upper structure

What now remains of the original bridge is confined solely to the foundations and lower portions of the piers. As the Romans are in the habit of saying with regard to the Colosseum "quod non fecere barbari, fecere Barberini" so with us the polished era of Louis XIV reduced to a ruin what the comparative savages of the dark ages had spared. This noble relic of antiquity was doomed to be blown up by the French army in the campaign of 1689; but, happily, the strength of its masses was such as resisted total destruction. The huge blocks of basalt used in the construction of this bridge were, as in our own Porta Martis and the Cyclopean walls of Italy, piled upon each other, without the intervention of mortar or cement. Their size is from six to nine feet in length, three feet in width, and the same in height. I speak only of the several portions just mentioned as original; for there is nothing of the kind in the arches, which were restored by the Elector Francis Lewis between the years 1717 and 1720 and are altogether of sand stone. According to Palladio and Bergier, the old Roman bridge at Ariminum bore a strong resemblance to ours. Wyttenbach In origin the Roman bridge had ten arches, rather than six as today. It was most likely built by Agrippa as part of the road linking Lyon to Cologne.

## Palace/Basilica in a plate from "Alexandre de Laborde - The Monuments of France Chronologically Classified - 1816-1836" (the town was annexed by France between 1794 and 1815)

The Palace of the Electors and Bishops, a very handsome and extensive building, is now turned into a barrack. It stands partly upon the site of an enormous Roman edifice, a fragment of which only now remains; the larger portion having been demolished in comparatively recent times, to make way for the episcopal edifice erected in 1614. The colossal fragment still existing has been included in the palace, and goes, with the vulgar, by the name of the Heathens' Tower (Heufenthurm): with the Valets de Place, it has longed passed for the Palace of Constantine. (..) The gigantic proportions of this Roman edifice, whose walls are more than 90 feet high, and 10 feet thick, give a very good idea of the vast dimensions of the whole when entire. It is at the same time a master piece of architecture; as the bricks and tiles, of which it is wholly composed, remain to this day perfectly smooth on the surface, solid, and compact, and the walls, after the lapse of ages, are without a crack or seam. Additional interest attaches to these old walls, if we consider them as the favourite residence of Constantine, and that out of them issued the decrees which governed at the same time Rome and Britain. Murray

## Palace/Basilica

It has ever been the unanimous opinion of the learned in art, that Roman architecture, even in its latest times, is characterized by an imposing elevation, solidity, and boldness. Did such an opinion require any confirmation, it would be afforded by the subject of this portion of my treatise; a building on which it is impossible to fix the eye without feeling a conviction, that we have before us a noble relic of a great, a splendid, and a powerful people. (..) The portion now left of this monument of antiquity was, in its primitive state, no more than the western side of the building, together with the northeastern semicircular tower. The whole of this building was turned into a barrack, at the time Treves was in the hands of the French; and it is still employed for the same purpose. (..) The whole is of burned bricks, each of a square form, fifteen inches in diameter, and an inch and a quarter thick. The layers of mortar which connect them are of the same thickness as the bricks; the mortar itself is so tenacious that its strength is at least equal to their own; and it would be more easy to break either, than to separate the one from the other. When perfect the wall was pierced from end to end with two rows of open, round-headed arches, one above the other; those of the lower tier encircled with two concentric ranges of brick voussoirs, the upper with three. (..) Even as late as the first half of the seventeenth century we are assured by Alexander Wiltheim (a Jesuit known as the first archaeologist of Luxembourg) (..) that in many places he was able to trace indications of cavities in the walls, the remains probably of niches that had contained statues of colossal size. Wyttenbach

## Palace/Basilica: interior which houses the Evangelical Church since 1856

The building is thought to be a basilica which Emperor Constantine added to the residence of his father Constantius Chlorus. Here the Emperor received embassies or administered justice. It was greatly damaged by bombings in 1944. It was reconstructed without all the modifications and decorations which were made during its long history, in order to highlight its original basic structure, which might have resembled that of the main nave of S. Paolo fuori le Mura before the 1823 fire.

## Kaiserthermen - eastern end: (left) its assumed XVth century aspect; (right) in a plate by Laborde

Treves possesses some remarkable specimens of the architecture of the earlier period of the middle ages: I have little knowledge of such things, and they afford no pleasure to a cultivated mind. Their aspect, after a slight inspection, confused me; many of them are buried amongst heaps of rubbish, or broken, and turned to other uses. Goethe In front of the Palace extends an open space of ground, now used for drilling troops: at its further extremity stand the shattered remains of the Baths. Until within a few years, they were included in the fortifications of the town, and were half buried in the earth; so that the windows on the first story being on a level with the ground, served as an entrance into the town, and were barbarously broken away at the sides, in order to admit the market carts of the peasantry: from this the building got the name of the White Gate. Murray

## Kaiserthermen - eastern end

The materials of which this building is composed, are limestone and bricks, disposed in alternate strata; excepting only in the spacious and very beautiful arches which are of brick alone. In the lower part of the walls there are, generally speaking, three tiers of brick, alternating with as many of stone, about the centre, more commonly two rows of stone, with three or occasionally two of brick and towards the top, only one layer of brick. The whole is cemented with thick seams of mortar. This alternation of different materials was at that period, and for some while afterwards, the common style of Roman masonry; though instances are to be found where, for some particular cause, blocks of stone alone were used. The original walls of London , which are attributed to Constantine, are of a similar mode of construction. Wyttenbach This construction technique is known as opus listatum; it was employed also in the Baths of Constantine at Arles; other impressive examples of opus listatum can be seen in the Walls of Constantinople and in the Aqueduct of Los Milagros at Merida.

## Kaiserthermen - eastern end: northern side; the large apse is an entirely modern construction

Under the direction of the Prussian government, it has been laid bare to the foundation. Vaulted rooms, reservoirs, remains of a hypocaust, earthen pipes, and channels for the passage of water, hot as well as cold, have been brought to light, and fully explain the original destination of the building. The massiveness of the well-turned arches, and the thickness of the walls, will excite admiration at the skill of the builders who raised them, and surprise at the violence which has reduced them to so utter a state of dilapidation. Murray

## Kaiserthermen: (left) "balneum", small bath; (right) underground service passages

It needs scarcely to be subjoined that the Thermae, using the term in its full signification, must have been of considerable extent. (..) We may therefore safely take it for granted that the same was the case at Treves, as elsewhere, though hitherto our knowledge only extends to a portion of the baths and the conveniences for heating them. The latter which I had fortunately the opportunity of seeing are now hid from view. Wyttenbach Archaeologists have now a more precise understanding of the dating and purpose of the structure. It was begun by Constantine who wanted to provide his capital with baths adequate to his rank, perhaps to imitate Maximian and Diocletian who built large baths in Rome. When he became the sole ruler of the Empire he chose [Constantinople](Storia11.html#Nova Roma) as his residence and activity at Trier came to a halt. In ca 370 Valentinian I finished some parts of the structure, but with the purpose of turning it into a palace with barracks. Only a small public bath was actually completed. During the Middle Ages a castle was built at the eastern end of the structure and a church and a convent were built in other parts. The external southern walls were incorporated into those of the town.

## Amphitheatre: overall view

My young friend (i.e. Wyttenbach!), with whom I enjoyed many pleasant scientific and literary conversations, was also very well informed about the history of the town and neighbourhood. Our promenades, therefore, when the weather was tolerable, were always instructive, and I was able to note the things of principal importance. (..) My guide, whilst communicating the historical details, drew my attention to buildings of very different periods, the most of which were curious, and therefore worthy of observation; but few of them afforded pleasure to a cultivated taste, like that derived from the monument at Ygel. The remains of the Roman amphitheatre I found not without interest; but as the building had fallen in, and had, in all probability, served for several centuries as a quarry, little was to be deciphered. We admired, however, the way in which the ancients, in their wisdom, were able to produce great results with moderate means; and how they had made use of the natural advantages offered by the site between two hills, to lighten the work both of excavating and building. Goethe The Amphitheatre is dated ca 160-200, similar to Porta Nigra.

## Amphitheatre: southern entrance to the arena

Our Amphitheatre had two principal entrances, one to the north, the other to the south. The former of these was first opened by the excavations of 1816. The latter remained closed till within the last few years, up to which time the elliptical form of the whole had not become visible. The labours then undertaken were on the most extensive scale, and were also conducted at a great expense; it having been indispensable for the purpose to make considerable purchases of adjoining property. Wyttenbach The arena itself, excavated out of the solid rock, and carefully levelled, is 234 feet long and 155 broad: deep channels for water run round and through the centre: they were supplied by an aqueduct. Horns, tusks, and bones of various wild animals have been discovered in digging, and one or two cave-like vaults in the side walls were, it is supposed, the dens in which they were confined previously to exhibition. This Amphitheatre, capable of holding about 6000 persons, was of humble pretensions in comparison with those of Nismes,Verona, or the Coliseum, as, instead of being surrounded by several ranges of vaulted arcades of masonry, the sloping banks of earth, thrown up in excavating the arena, served to support the seats for the spectators; all traces of which have disappeared. The stones were probably used for building houses, as the amphitheatre was long regarded no otherwise than as a quarry. Murray

## Amphitheatre: underground facilities. You may wish to see some floor mosaics depicting the combats which took place in this amphitheatre in the introductory page

It is interesting in an historical as well as an antiquarian point of view, as it was upon this spot that Constantine entertained his subjects with an exhibition, which he called Frankish sports (Ludi Francici) and which consisted in exposing many thousand unarmed Frankish prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. He twice repeated these diversions (a. d. 306 and 313) and the fawning chroniclers of the time have not scrupled to call it a magnificent sight, "magnificum spectaculum, famosa supplicia." So great was the number of victims, that the savage beasts stopped short in their work of destruction, and left many alive, fatigued with slaughtering. Those who survived were made to fight as gladiators against one another; but they are said to have spoiled the amusement of the hard-hearted spectators, by voluntarily falling on each other's swords, instead of contending for life. Murray

## Vineyards surrounding the Amphitheatre on Martisberg

About a quarter of a mile from the baths, outside the walls, is the Roman Amphitheatre. It comes unexpectedly into sight, being scooped out of the side of a hill covered with vineyards, which, but a few years ago, extended over the arena itself. Murray It was on the banks of the Moselle that the Romans founded their Augusta Trevirorum, the parent of modern Treves. The hills on either side they dedicated to Apollo and to Mars. Wyttenbach After ascending the first slopes of the Martisberg, with its ruins, and mounting a little higher, we had a view of the Apolloberg. The eye now ranged from the foot of the Apolloberg, over river, bridge, mills, town, and country; the vineyards, not yet quite leafless, both beneath our feet and opposite us on the first slopes of the Martisberg, displaying themselves in pleasant relief, making us feel what a blessed region we were in, and awakening a feeling of happiness and pleasure, which seems to float in the air in the countries where the vines grow. The Moselle wine of the best sorts, which we obtained here, appeared, after this survey, to taste even better than before. Goethe

## Barbara Baths: two of its halls

It would seem that Roman Treves must in addition to the Thermae, whose ruins we are still permitted to admire, have likewise been able to boast of baths, no traces of which are now remaining. Wyttenbach Wyttenbach could make this statement because Alexandre Wiltheim had described the existence of remaining structures of Roman baths inside a convent dedicated to St. Barbara and made a drawing of them (it opens in another window). These were destroyed by the French in 1675. Recent excavations have unearthed the foundations of parts of the construction which was very large and was built before Kaiserthermen.

## Newly found Roman and medieval buildings in Viehmarktplatz

Excavations on the site of the old cattle market have identified remains of Roman and medieval buildings. They were discovered during the construction of an underground parking ramp. They are now part of a modern venue for conferences. It appears that in the IVth century an existing building was adapted to be used as a public bathhouse.

## Excavations at Viehmarktplatz: (left) a bathtube; (right) sewer

The image used as background for this page shows a drawing of a Roman relief from Laborde's book.

Move to the Rheinisches Landesmuseum or see some other monuments of the town.