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Papers by Jessica Harpley
The Journal of Dress History, 2020
This article examines the Victorian chatelaine, a rarely investigated accessory with a function t... more This article examines the Victorian chatelaine, a rarely investigated accessory with a function that has been attributed to the lack of pockets in Victorian women's clothing. Whereas previous study into the chatelaine has concentrated on design and material culture, this article explores perceptions and representations of the chatelaine. A textual and visual analysis of literary and photographic representations of the chatelaine considers how the accessory functioned to expose women's possessions to the male gaze, and regulated femininity via unique gesticulations and appended tools.
Multiple conflicting qualities emerge, portraying the chatelaine as an aid to domesticity
and femininity, and as a flirtatious novelty central to interactions with the opposite sex.
Adopted by women of all ages, the chatelaine served a variety of functions, providing
women with the means to display and enact their domesticity, femininity, and
fashionability whilst engendering an emotional supportive role through its tactile
materiality.
Book Reviews by Jessica Harpley
Journal of Design History, 2021
The Journal of Dress History, 2020
This article examines the Victorian chatelaine, a rarely investigated accessory with a function t... more This article examines the Victorian chatelaine, a rarely investigated accessory with a function that has been attributed to the lack of pockets in Victorian women's clothing. Whereas previous study into the chatelaine has concentrated on design and material culture, this article explores perceptions and representations of the chatelaine. A textual and visual analysis of literary and photographic representations of the chatelaine considers how the accessory functioned to expose women's possessions to the male gaze, and regulated femininity via unique gesticulations and appended tools.
Multiple conflicting qualities emerge, portraying the chatelaine as an aid to domesticity
and femininity, and as a flirtatious novelty central to interactions with the opposite sex.
Adopted by women of all ages, the chatelaine served a variety of functions, providing
women with the means to display and enact their domesticity, femininity, and
fashionability whilst engendering an emotional supportive role through its tactile
materiality.
Journal of Design History, 2021