October Restaurant Buzz: What’s New in Paris (original) (raw)

“I do very well three things: my job, stupidities and children.”
– Alain Delon (November 1935-August 2024) RIP

October’s a deliciously mellow month in Paris. Celebrate autumn at the 91st Fête des Vendanges harvest festival in Montmartre, admire magnificent works at Art Basel Paris, then hit up the restaurant scene. Here’s the buzziest food news.

Ducasse Baccarat

Here’s the happening event of la rentrée. The former Cristal Room Baccarat is now Ducasse Baccarat with Alain Ducasse taking culinary charge of the handsome mansion that was once home to Vicomtesse Marie-Laure de Noailles (1902-1970). Today it’s the proud Parisian showcase of the Baccarat crystal museum.

Designed by Jean-Michel Frank for Marie-Laure de Noailles, the chic bar now features cocktails by star mixologist Margot Lecarpentier (from Combat in the 19th). Chef Christophe Saintagne is overseeing two separate gourmet venues: the first is relaxed on the ground floor, the other is more gastronomic, situated on the first floor, in the former “Crystal Room”. Saintagne was the Michelin three-star chef at Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée, then Le Meurice, before launching Le Papillon in the 19th. Heading the kitchens at Ducasse Baccarat, he’s bringing a new vision, at once contemporary, gastronomic and artistic, to this unique location.

On his team is Robin Schroeder, from Thionville, Lorraine, who has worked at the Auberge de l’Ill in Illhauesern and the Brenner, Baden Baden, and who collaborated with Mathieu Viannay for the launch of the Mère Brazier grocery stores.

“Together, we’ll reinvent the historic Maison Baccarat located in the heart of the 16th arrondissement. We’ll make it a place of experiences, moments of life and unexpected encounters where art, crafts and gastronomy interact from mid-day to midnight,” says Alain Ducasse.

DETAILS
11, place des Etats Unis, 16th
Metro: Iéna
Tel: +33 (0)1 84 75 13 15

Ducasse Baccarat. Photo: Bertille Chabrolle

La Ferme du Pré

Yes, there’s a farm right in front of the Michelin 3-star Pré Catelan, in the heart of the Bois de Boulogne! Celebrating 27 years at the stoves of this elegant maison, Chef Frédéric Anton recently launched the beautifully bucolic Ferme du Pré. It’s found in a historic, half-timbered building of the former dairy- renovated by architect Pierre Yves Rochon with antique tiles, toile de Jouy, and copper pans on the walls. There’s a summer terrace and cozy, chic “inn” attitude for winter.

In the country kitchen, Frédéric, Mehdi Sgard and the team create traditional bourgeois cuisine, rediscovering the tastes and flavors of yesterday with the sophistication of today. All served on splendid old plates, silver dishes and cutlery garnered from the rich reserves of Pré Catelan.

On the menu, there’s country terrine, cod Grenobloise, boudin noir maison, boeuf Bourguignon, “Sunday” roast chicken, and ris de veau. Desserts include profiteroles, rum baba and peach Melba. Match with a flute of champagne (€19). Or go for the white Sancerre (2022) Domaine Daniel Crochet (€50), or red Burgundy Domaine David Duband (2021). Average spend – €56 per person + boissons.

DETAILS
Bois de Boulogne, 16th
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 14 41 40
Metro: Porte Maillot – then Bus 244 stop Bagatelle-Pré Catalan or Porte Dauphine

courtesy of La Ferme du Pré Catelan

La Renaissance de PUR

The Park Hyatt has two contemporary restaurants: Café Jeanne, handy from 7 am-midnight, and the Michelin-starred Pur – recently redecorated by hip, young architect Hugo Toro for divine dinners.

Since 2006, Chef Jean-François Rouquette (Taillevent, Le Crillon, La Cantine des Gourmets, Les Muses) has been creating fabulous cuisine, including the signature tepid red lobster, and the suckling lamb from the Pyrenees, cooked several ways (roasted rack, stuffed saddle), and served with tasty side dishes such as baby artichokes stuffed with quinoa and seaweed tartare. Don’t miss the cheese from Marie Quatrehomme and the shortbread and soufflé tart, prepared with Venezuela grand cru chocolate, hazelnut praline, and cocoa nib ice cream.

The delicacy with which chef and his team present these fabulous creations is a “PUR delight!”

DETAILS
Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme
5 rue de la Paix, 2nd
Metro: Opera
Tel: +33 (0)1 58 71 10 60
Open Tuesday-Saturday Dinner only

Marius Gare de Lyon

“A sunny new restaurant in a Parisian train station,” writes New York Times magazine. In the heart of the Gare de Lyon, the Brasserie Marius opened its doors under the direction of brilliant young Chef Yoni Saada.

Marius proudly presents itself as a culinary meeting place within one of Paris’s most iconic stations. This restaurant is the result of the collaboration between SSP France, world leader in transport catering, and chef Saada, known for his modern and innovative approach to Mediterranean cuisine.

Every detail of Marius is designed to offer a unique gastronomic experience, combining tradition and innovation in an elegant and friendly setting. Travelers and Parisians will appreciate dishes celebrating the generosity and sunny flavors of the Mediterranean. On the menu, you’ll find creations such as sea bream tagine with candied lemons, and tender lamb chops with chermoula.

Obviously, at this location, Marius offers a menu covering all times of the day, from breakfast to dinner. Start the day with an express or Mediterranean breakfast, or enjoy lunch and dinner (average spend about €30) with kemia – a combo of cold and hot snacks, served with a glass of boukha, the traditional fig spirit. There’s also super salads, avocado toast, truffle rigatoni, the Marius burger, and beef tartare. Marius Dolce Vita includes a wicked chocolate mousse.

The restaurant highlights a nicely chosen selection of wines to accompany each dish, showcasing vintages from the Mediterranean region and Côtes de Provence (€34). For a quick meal before taking the train or for an evening with friends, Marius promises a warm and gourmet culinary journey.

DETAILS

Open daily from 5:30 am (for breakfast) until 9 pm
Place Louis Armand, 12th
Metro: Gare de Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)6 12 91 72 71

Jean Louis Nomicos

“We announce with great pride that our chef Jean Louis Nomicos has just been awarded the Gault&Millau d’Or 2024 prize in the Paris Île-de-France region. This distinction is the fruit of his talent, his passion and his commitment to offering you exceptional cuisine. To celebrate this great success, the chef invites you to come and discover his new creations, from Tuesday to Saturday lunch and dinner, where delicious seasonal products are in the spotlight”.

DETAILS

16 avenue Bugeaud, 16th
Tel: +33 (0)1 56 28 16 16
Metro: Victor Hugo

19 Saint Roch

“The most fashionable table in Paris”, writes the Financial Times. Here’s where chef Pierre Touitou translates the minimalist aesthetic of his family’s cult brand APC into his own culinary genius. To quote the FT review: “The dessert, which followed a starter of raw line-caught grouper with cherries and walnuts, and duck with bell pepper au jus and giblet salad when I visited, is one of the standout creations of chef patron Pierre Touitou, who is probably best known for running the kitchen at buzzy natural wine bar Vivant and its little brother Déviant in the 10th. The cooking at 19 Saint Roch is ‘less brutalist and punchy’ than anything you would have found at those previous venues.” Read the full review here.

DETAILS

Open Tuesday-Friday Lunch & Dinner
19, rue Saint Roch, 1st
M: Palais Royal Musée du Louvre
T: 01 40 15 00
https://www.19saint-roch.com

Lead photo credit : Ducasse Baccarat. Photograph: Laurine Paumard

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !