Jenny Leigh Du Puis | Cornell University (original) (raw)
Papers by Jenny Leigh Du Puis
Fashion and textiles, Jan 25, 2024
Breaking Boundaries, Sep 15, 2022
Breaking Boundaries, Sep 23, 2022
Fashion and Textiles, Dec 5, 2022
Critical studies in fashion & beauty, Jun 1, 2022
Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus co... more Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus costumes that examines the complexities, histories and representations of circus through representations of material artefacts, ephemera, print media, photographs and other primary sources. Through curated features of the exhibit, we investigate circus costumes’ sociocultural influence on fashion through aesthetics and functional design. The purpose of this article is to explore how digital fashion exhibitions may be developed to create educational resources and how their curation process may be interpreted through theory. To do this, we examine the curation of Flights of Fancy through an exploration of its use of symbolism as an organizational device. We use multiple theoretical lenses, including Erving Goffman’s concepts of the front and back stage presentations of self, along with Anneke Smelik and Susan Kaiser’s updated view that interprets Goffman in the digital/social media sphere, Paul O’Neill’s composition of exhibitions through background/middle ground/foreground and Susan Kaiser’s time, space and place. Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance, digital exhibition (February 2021 – present; Cornell Fashion + Textile Collection, Cornell University Library): https://exhibits.library.cornell.edu/flights-of-fancy.
Fashion and Textiles, May 15, 2022
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2021
Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthe... more Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthetics converge. In this article, we use the term "fashion exhibition" to refer to the organized display of extant dress-related items within museums or other public spaces. Curation, as a form of creative design research, produces numerous outcomes including museum exhibitions, digital archives, and associated publications; however, our field has not yet established a method to peer review fashion exhibitions. In this article, we build upon the work of previous scholars to propose criteria for evaluating fashion exhibitions. In doing so, we aim to elevate the scholarly status of fashion exhibitions, particularly those mounted by modestly funded institutions, and use the recent fashion exhibition, "Women Empowered: Fashions from the Frontline," as an example to illustrate our argument.
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 2022
Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus co... more Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus costumes that examines the complexities, histories and representations of circus through representations of material artefacts, ephemera, print media, photographs and other primary sources. Through curated features of the exhibit, we investigate circus costumes' sociocultural influence on fashion through aesthetics and functional design. The purpose of this article is to explore how digital fashion exhibitions may be developed to create educational resources and how their curation process may be interpreted through theory. To do this, we examine the curation of Flights of Fancy through an exploration of its use of symbolism
Journal of Fashion & Textiles, 2022
The COVID-19 pandemic provoked a surge in the everyday use of face masks for children as young as... more The COVID-19 pandemic provoked a surge in the everyday use of face masks for children as young as 2 years old to adults of any age (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, n.d.). A critical lack of standardization or sizing for children's masks coupled with children's higher respiration rates and lower breathing pressure than adults put children's face mask designers/manufacturers and children's caregivers at a unique disadvantage when designing and choosing face masks. Cloth face masks act as a form of source control and offer a certain level of protection to the wearer, but are currently not regulated for medical use or as respiratory protection devices (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, n.d.; Courtney & Bax, 2021). The American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists (AATCC) released M14-2020 guidance document for nonmedical face coverings in mid-2020 and ASTM published F3502-21 standard for Barrier Face Coverings in early 2021 (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 2020; ASTM International, 2021). Both AATCC M14 and ASTM F3502 are for adults only.
Journal of Fashion & Textiles, 2022
Commercially available children's cloth masks range widely in material type and fabric structures... more Commercially available children's cloth masks range widely in material type and fabric structures, methods of construction, layering, and shape, and there is a lack of sizing systems, anthropometric data or guidelines specifically targeting the fit assessment and design of cloth face masks for children 4-6 years old. To better identify and understand the cloth face mask fit and functional needs of children ages 4-6 years old, the researchers embarked on interdisciplinary in-depth study to investigate commercial market offerings of children's face masks, identify consumer perspectives, and explore mask design improvements through design research. By triangulating results from survey feedback, commercial market content analysis, and wear trial observations, the researchers were able to identify important design criteria that can be used in the improvement of children's cloth face mask design: size, comfort, dexterity, movement, and thermal comfort. These criteria were used to iteratively develop new mask prototypes involving a 3D printed head form, traditional sewing and hand patternmaking skills, and the creation of multiple mask versions to explore the design criteria listed above. The designs were interpreted through Bye's (2010) Problem-Based Design Research (PBDR) framework, which identifies common design research practices in the field on a spectrum and situates PBDR as a process centered on a problem as impetus for design through which artifacts are developed.
The purpose of this design research was to explore the integration of wearable light-emitting dio... more The purpose of this design research was to explore the integration of wearable light-emitting diode (LED) elements with traditional garment/accessory embellishment and construction techniques. Tacit knowledge of circus costuming involving wearable LED tech informed the basis of the research, and couture beading techniques were employed alongside LED application. The ensemble of a metallic brocade coatdress with contrast lining and complementing top hat utilized LED circuitry to illuminate a beaded appliqué on the back of the coatdress. LEDs along the underside of the hat\u27s brim cast light onto the beading, complementing LEDs residing underneath the beaded appliqué. Adaptations to existing computer code were employed to adjust the LED programming via an Adafruit FLORA microprocessor, and design challenges resulted due to the designer\u27s lack of prior knowledge of computer programming. Safety measures against electrocution and conductivity were employed in the form of insulatin...
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty
Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus co... more Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus costumes that examines the complexities, histories and representations of circus through representations of material artefacts, ephemera, print media, photographs and other primary sources. Through curated features of the exhibit, we investigate circus costumes’ sociocultural influence on fashion through aesthetics and functional design. The purpose of this article is to explore how digital fashion exhibitions may be developed to create educational resources and how their curation process may be interpreted through theory. To do this, we examine the curation of Flights of Fancy through an exploration of its use of symbolism as an organizational device. We use multiple theoretical lenses, including Erving Goffman’s concepts of the front and back stage presentations of self, along with Anneke Smelik and Susan Kaiser’s updated view that interprets Goffman in the digital/social media sphere, P...
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2019
Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthe... more Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthetics converge. In this article, we use the term “fashion exhibition” to refer to the organized display of extant dress-related items within museums or other public spaces. Curation, as a form of creative design research, produces numerous outcomes including museum exhibitions, digital archives, and associated publications; however, our field has not yet established a method to peer review fashion exhibitions. In this article, we build upon the work of previous scholars to propose criteria for evaluating fashion exhibitions. In doing so, we aim to elevate the scholarly status of fashion exhibitions, particularly those mounted by modestly funded institutions, and use the recent fashion exhibition, “Women Empowered: Fashions from the Frontline,” as an example to illustrate our argument.
Fashion and textiles, Jan 25, 2024
Breaking Boundaries, Sep 15, 2022
Breaking Boundaries, Sep 23, 2022
Fashion and Textiles, Dec 5, 2022
Critical studies in fashion & beauty, Jun 1, 2022
Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus co... more Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus costumes that examines the complexities, histories and representations of circus through representations of material artefacts, ephemera, print media, photographs and other primary sources. Through curated features of the exhibit, we investigate circus costumes’ sociocultural influence on fashion through aesthetics and functional design. The purpose of this article is to explore how digital fashion exhibitions may be developed to create educational resources and how their curation process may be interpreted through theory. To do this, we examine the curation of Flights of Fancy through an exploration of its use of symbolism as an organizational device. We use multiple theoretical lenses, including Erving Goffman’s concepts of the front and back stage presentations of self, along with Anneke Smelik and Susan Kaiser’s updated view that interprets Goffman in the digital/social media sphere, Paul O’Neill’s composition of exhibitions through background/middle ground/foreground and Susan Kaiser’s time, space and place. Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance, digital exhibition (February 2021 – present; Cornell Fashion + Textile Collection, Cornell University Library): https://exhibits.library.cornell.edu/flights-of-fancy.
Fashion and Textiles, May 15, 2022
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2021
Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthe... more Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthetics converge. In this article, we use the term "fashion exhibition" to refer to the organized display of extant dress-related items within museums or other public spaces. Curation, as a form of creative design research, produces numerous outcomes including museum exhibitions, digital archives, and associated publications; however, our field has not yet established a method to peer review fashion exhibitions. In this article, we build upon the work of previous scholars to propose criteria for evaluating fashion exhibitions. In doing so, we aim to elevate the scholarly status of fashion exhibitions, particularly those mounted by modestly funded institutions, and use the recent fashion exhibition, "Women Empowered: Fashions from the Frontline," as an example to illustrate our argument.
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 2022
Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus co... more Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus costumes that examines the complexities, histories and representations of circus through representations of material artefacts, ephemera, print media, photographs and other primary sources. Through curated features of the exhibit, we investigate circus costumes' sociocultural influence on fashion through aesthetics and functional design. The purpose of this article is to explore how digital fashion exhibitions may be developed to create educational resources and how their curation process may be interpreted through theory. To do this, we examine the curation of Flights of Fancy through an exploration of its use of symbolism
Journal of Fashion & Textiles, 2022
The COVID-19 pandemic provoked a surge in the everyday use of face masks for children as young as... more The COVID-19 pandemic provoked a surge in the everyday use of face masks for children as young as 2 years old to adults of any age (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, n.d.). A critical lack of standardization or sizing for children's masks coupled with children's higher respiration rates and lower breathing pressure than adults put children's face mask designers/manufacturers and children's caregivers at a unique disadvantage when designing and choosing face masks. Cloth face masks act as a form of source control and offer a certain level of protection to the wearer, but are currently not regulated for medical use or as respiratory protection devices (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, n.d.; Courtney & Bax, 2021). The American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists (AATCC) released M14-2020 guidance document for nonmedical face coverings in mid-2020 and ASTM published F3502-21 standard for Barrier Face Coverings in early 2021 (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 2020; ASTM International, 2021). Both AATCC M14 and ASTM F3502 are for adults only.
Journal of Fashion & Textiles, 2022
Commercially available children's cloth masks range widely in material type and fabric structures... more Commercially available children's cloth masks range widely in material type and fabric structures, methods of construction, layering, and shape, and there is a lack of sizing systems, anthropometric data or guidelines specifically targeting the fit assessment and design of cloth face masks for children 4-6 years old. To better identify and understand the cloth face mask fit and functional needs of children ages 4-6 years old, the researchers embarked on interdisciplinary in-depth study to investigate commercial market offerings of children's face masks, identify consumer perspectives, and explore mask design improvements through design research. By triangulating results from survey feedback, commercial market content analysis, and wear trial observations, the researchers were able to identify important design criteria that can be used in the improvement of children's cloth face mask design: size, comfort, dexterity, movement, and thermal comfort. These criteria were used to iteratively develop new mask prototypes involving a 3D printed head form, traditional sewing and hand patternmaking skills, and the creation of multiple mask versions to explore the design criteria listed above. The designs were interpreted through Bye's (2010) Problem-Based Design Research (PBDR) framework, which identifies common design research practices in the field on a spectrum and situates PBDR as a process centered on a problem as impetus for design through which artifacts are developed.
The purpose of this design research was to explore the integration of wearable light-emitting dio... more The purpose of this design research was to explore the integration of wearable light-emitting diode (LED) elements with traditional garment/accessory embellishment and construction techniques. Tacit knowledge of circus costuming involving wearable LED tech informed the basis of the research, and couture beading techniques were employed alongside LED application. The ensemble of a metallic brocade coatdress with contrast lining and complementing top hat utilized LED circuitry to illuminate a beaded appliqué on the back of the coatdress. LEDs along the underside of the hat\u27s brim cast light onto the beading, complementing LEDs residing underneath the beaded appliqué. Adaptations to existing computer code were employed to adjust the LED programming via an Adafruit FLORA microprocessor, and design challenges resulted due to the designer\u27s lack of prior knowledge of computer programming. Safety measures against electrocution and conductivity were employed in the form of insulatin...
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty
Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus co... more Flights of Fancy: Fashion and Function in Circus Performance is a digital exhibition of circus costumes that examines the complexities, histories and representations of circus through representations of material artefacts, ephemera, print media, photographs and other primary sources. Through curated features of the exhibit, we investigate circus costumes’ sociocultural influence on fashion through aesthetics and functional design. The purpose of this article is to explore how digital fashion exhibitions may be developed to create educational resources and how their curation process may be interpreted through theory. To do this, we examine the curation of Flights of Fancy through an exploration of its use of symbolism as an organizational device. We use multiple theoretical lenses, including Erving Goffman’s concepts of the front and back stage presentations of self, along with Anneke Smelik and Susan Kaiser’s updated view that interprets Goffman in the digital/social media sphere, P...
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2019
Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthe... more Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthetics converge. In this article, we use the term “fashion exhibition” to refer to the organized display of extant dress-related items within museums or other public spaces. Curation, as a form of creative design research, produces numerous outcomes including museum exhibitions, digital archives, and associated publications; however, our field has not yet established a method to peer review fashion exhibitions. In this article, we build upon the work of previous scholars to propose criteria for evaluating fashion exhibitions. In doing so, we aim to elevate the scholarly status of fashion exhibitions, particularly those mounted by modestly funded institutions, and use the recent fashion exhibition, “Women Empowered: Fashions from the Frontline,” as an example to illustrate our argument.