Tbilisi (original) (raw)

Tbilisi at night

Tbilisi (Georgian: თბილისი), is the capital city of the country of Georgia, lying on the banks of the Mtkvari River. The metropolitan area covers 726 km² (280 mi²) and has a population of approximately 1.5 million (2022).

Location of Tbilisi within Georgia

Location of Tbilisi within Georgia

Tbilisi (formerly called 'Tiflis' after its Russian name) lies in the centre of eastern Georgia, in the foothills of the Trialeti mountain range. According to Georgian legends, it was founded in the 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali who, while hunting, shot a pheasant which fell into a warm spring and was either boiled or healed. Either way, the king was inspired to found a city on the site, and the name of the city derives from the Georgian word tbili meaning "warm". Although the city has been destroyed and rebuilt 29 times, the layout of the Old Town is largely intact with narrow alleys and big crooked houses built around courtyards.

Tbilisi experiences relatively cold winters and hot summers. Because the city is bounded on most sides by mountain ranges, the close proximity to large bodies of water (Black and Caspian Seas) and the fact that the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range (further to the north) blocks the intrusion of cold air masses from Russia, Tbilisi has a relatively mild micro-climate compared to other cities that possess a similar continental climate along the same latitudes. The average annual temperature in Tbilisi is 12.7 °C (54.9 °F). January is the coldest month with an average temperature of 0.9 °C (33.6 °F). July is the hottest month with an average temperature of 24.4 °C (75.9 °F). The absolute minimum recorded temperature is −24 °C (−11 °F) and the absolute maximum is 40 °C (104 °F). Average annual precipitation is 568 mm (22.4 in). May and June are the wettest months (averaging 84 mm (3.3 in) of precipitation each) while January is the driest (averaging 20 mm (0.8 in) of precipitation). Snow falls on average 15–25 days per year. The surrounding mountains often trap the clouds within and around the city, mainly during the Spring and Autumn months, resulting in prolonged rainy and/or cloudy weather. Northwesterly winds dominate in most parts of Tbilisi throughout the year. Southeasterly winds are common as well.

Visitor information

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See this section for the very limited domestic flights to the city.

International flights go to Tbilisi regularly from Aktau, Almaty, Amsterdam, Antalya, Athens, Baku, Doha, Donetsk, Dnipro, Dubai, Istanbul IST & SAW, Kazan, Kharkiv, Kyiv KBP, London LGW, Minsk, Moscow DME & ZIA, Munich, Novosibirsk, Odesa, Paris CDG, Prague, Riga, Rome, Rostov-on-Don, Sochi, St Petersburg, Tallinn, Tel Aviv, Vienna, Vilnius, Warsaw, Yekaterinburg and Yerevan. There are summer seasonal flights to the Med and Red Sea resorts.

You may also want to consider arriving in the Kutaisi Airport. Flight prices from Asia and Europe can be as low as €20-30. The low fare routes are (as of May 2021) from Vienna, Larnaca, Prague, Tallin, Berlin, Dortmund, Memmingen, Athens, Thessaloniki, Budapest, Milan, Rome, Riga, Vilnius, Gdansk, Katowice, Kraków, Poznan, Warsaw, Wroclaw and Abu Dhabi. From Kutaisi to Tbilisi you go 4 hours in a marshrutka for 20 lari. Or you can take the train.

Getting there and away:

Airport rail connection

The rail connection from the airport to Tbilisi's main railway station is not operating as of 2023. The shuttered station is just across the street from the arrivals terminal and is difficult to not notice with its yellow, reflective glass panes.

Don't count on the last or last two airport buses to run to the airport. Nothing is overly reliable in Georgia, especially when taxi drivers can earn an extra lari. In May 2023, the last airport bus departed Tbilisi's main railroad station at 23:50.

Beware: Scammer taxi drivers have proliferated at Tbilisi Airport in the past several years and will charge several times the rate. They are aggressive and will immediately accost you upon leaving the baggage claim with greetings like: "Hello, my friend." Be particularly wary of one tall and thin scammer, who will try to be very friendly yet can be menacing if you refuse. Try also to avoid withdrawing money from the ATMs at the airport as many of the scammer drivers that accost passengers try to look over your shoulder to see how much you are withdrawing.

Trains run twice daily between Tbilisi and Batumi, departing each city around 07:30 and 17:30 and taking 5 hr. These trains also connect to Yerevan (Armenia).

Trains also run from Gori, Borjomi, Kutaisi I + II, Marneuli, Poti and Zugdidi.

International trains

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An overnight train runs between Tbilisi and Yerevan in Armenia. From Oct to mid-June this departs from Tbilisi (as Train 371) at 20:20 on odd dates of the month, reaching the border at 22:00 and Yerevan 06:55 next morning. It departs from Yerevan (as Train 372) at 21:30 on even dates, reaching the border at 04:20 and Tbilisi at 07:50. The 31st/1st of the month may be skipped to maintain the alternation. Border procedures either side take 90 min. In summer these trains may be booked out for days ahead, so buy your ticket as soon as possible - you can do so online. The coaches are standard ex-Soviet behemoths, but with fairly comfortable sleeping compartments. No catering, so bring your own food, water, vodka etc.

The one way fare is 54.50/61.25 lari (upper/lower bed) in 3rd class, and about 90 lari in a 2nd class sleeper berth. 3rd class can be sticky and uncomfortable if it is fully booked—check ahead.

From mid-June through Sept this train runs daily from Batumi on the Black Sea coast. As Train 201, it departs Batumi 15:35 and Tbilisi 22:15, reaching Yerevan at 07:25. As Train 202, it departs Yerevan 15:30 and Tbilisi 00:45, reaching Batumi at 07:10. Other domestic trains link Tbilisi and Batumi. Batumi is close to the Sarpi/Hopa border crossing between Georgia and Turkey, which is the main overland route into this region.

By bus or marshrutka

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Prices, marshrutka drivers and travel hours

Since marshrutkas are privately owned vehicles, some drivers try to charge tourists several lari more than locals. If you do not want to get ripped off, ask a local about the price and give money straight to the driver, or just pay at a ticket office (სალარო) if such exists–most larger cities have them, but not all destinations.
Also, start early, because marshrutkas mostly start in the morning and become sparse in the afternoon. After 16:00 it can be hard to catch a marshrutka to/from Tbilisi, or any other city in Georgia for that matter.

There are three main bus stations in Tbilisi, and several smaller ones. In Georgian, bus station is ავტოსადგური or ავტოვაგზალი. Most often than not, large bus stations are located adjacent to big train stations (called sadguri სადგური or vagzali ვაგზალი). To transfer between Didube and Ortachala, use marshrutka 150 or metro.

Map

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Didube bus station:

Zone 1: Western Georgia and Rustavi

Zone 3: taxi, Imereti region, Russia

Zone 4: Western Georgia

Zone 5: Western Georgia

Zone 6: Western Georgia

Getting into Tbilisi through hitch-hiking is mostly not a problem, because most people go into the centre. And even a little further away, you can always catch a cheap (yellow) bus the last metres.

Getting out though can be challenging, as you need to find a place where the traffic goes to where you want. It is best to take a marshrutka or regular bus a few kilometres out of the city and start from there. Also, check the Hitchwiki for detailed instructions.

Map

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Map of Tbilisi

By public transport

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The primary transport inside and outside the Tbilisi city are metro, buses and marshrutkaa (converted transport vans aka minibuses aka microbuses). Check the Tbilisi Transport Company website[dead link] for live overview and more information on buses. Otherwise, to find the correct bus route, GoogleMaps has comprehensive bus network information with numbers and routes. If you click on one of the numerous bus stops around the city or next to you, you will get displayed the bus lines, their routes and frequency.

There is the Metromoney (IC) card, which must be used for most of Tbilisi's public transport options and tapped when entering any vehicle or station. Visa is also possible on some buses, but 50% extra.

The Metromoney card gives discounts when transferring between metro, buses and minibuses, specifically the first ride is 1 lari (for either metro, buses or marshrutka) and all subsequent rides are free within the next 1½ hr. Several people can use one card together, however, only the first person can profit from the free transfer.

You can buy the card at any metro station, with an one-time "non-refundable" deposit of 2 lari. (It can be refunded though if you have the original receipt and register the card onto your name.) The card can be topped up with any amount in metro stations or at Bank of Georgia pay-booths around the city.

Buses and metro station turnstiles will also accept contactless cards, though your bank may charge you for this service.

Freedom Square metro station

Tbilisi Metro logo

Tbilisi has a two-line metro system, which operates from 06:00–24:00. However, sometimes the last metros leave at around 23:00 from either end.

All signs inside the metro are in Georgian and English, but station name signs are not always visible from the train. Station names are also announced in two languages. There are rarely system maps on the train cars themselves. You will be lucky to find English speakers riding the Metro. You will however have better luck with Russian, which older people will speak. Take a bilingual map with you if you are not proficient with the local alphabet/pronunciation.

Some rebuilt metro cars have USB charging ports near the doors, so that passengers can charge their phone. Cell coverage exists in most stations.

City buses are green and blue, and come in various sizes. The bus number and a description of the route are usually listed on signs in the bus windows, but only in Georgian. The city has installed electronic arrival boards, with reasonably accurate estimated arrival times, at bus stops on major roads. The signs alternate between English and Georgian and display the bus number, minutes to arrival and destination.

Board through any door you like, usually the double doors in the middle are easiest.

Minibuses (aka marshrutkas) in downtown Tbilisi

Marshrutkas are vans which service the side streets of the city. They are independently owned. Like buses, the route is posted in the front window (often only in Georgian), but marshrutkas use a different route numbering system, and the route descriptions may be more general than the buses, e.g. "Vake" rather than a specific street in the Vake area.

Shout "Stop" or "Gaacheret" when you want to get off, and hand the driver your fare on the way out.

Depending on where you are, certain parts of the city are conveniently walkable, but others cater mostly to motorists. Pedestrians have to contend with significant neglect of the pavements. As far as motorists are concerned pedestrians are allowed to use zebra crossings, but when doing so they do not have priority over vehicular traffic. However, pedestrians do have the advantage of being able to cross the pedestrian only peace bridge and travel on the cable car and funiculars.

Kura River, Tbilisi

Taxis in Tbilisi are also cheap, especially through Bolt or Yandex.Taxi. They are typically privately owned vehicles, and are not metered. If you're going anywhere other than the nearest metro station, major hotels, or tourist destinations, or if you don't speak Georgian or Russian, it's likely that your driver will stop multiple times and ask pedestrians for directions. Even then, he may not know how to get to your destination. If the driver has difficulty finding your destination, he will charge you for his trouble. Always negotiate a price beforehand, unless it is a metered taxi. Prices start at 2 lari for very short trips. A trip in the center of town should rarely cost more than 3–5 lari, and anywhere in the city should never cost more than 15 lari. The taxi drivers can be persistent when trying to get customers.

Consider making an account with Bolt, MAXIM or Yandex.Taxi. They are quite cheap and especially going with several people more convenient. They can also help when the metro is closed and you are stuck—mostly less than 1 lari per km. If you are 3-4 people taxi is an inexpensive alternative to even marshrutkas.

End on parking is widespread, but the ubiquitous informal parking attendants will help you reverse out into the traffic. It is all part of the service they offer in return for the usual tip.

Cycling was rare in the past, but is becoming more widespread, with dedicated bike-paths in some parts of town, including Vake and Saburtalo. In Vake, during rush hour cycling likely is the fastest mode of transport. Cycling on pavements is tolerated, especially by children, as long as done with respect to pedestrians. Experienced cyclists recommend getting thoroughly familiar with traffic and routes before venturing out. (There have been some accidents and fatalities.) The local mobility rental Qari[dead link] offers rental bikes, requires a local app and pre-payment. A community sourced Safe Cycling map shows some routes that cyclists consider reasonably safe.

A number of international scooter services operate, including Bolt, Qari[dead link], and Bird (financial issues as of Sept 2023).

Dolmens in the Ethnographical Open-Air Museum

Religious architecture

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Nearby (50-150 km) popular sights that allow for a day trip from Tbilisi are Mtskheta, Uplistsikhe, David Gareja Monastery Complex, Dmanisi archaeological site, Sighnaghi and Rustavi with its Sioni Church and the Auto Trade Center, the biggest market for used cars in the Caucasus.

Narikala fortress at night

The Funicular reopened in December 2012

FC Dinamo Tbilisi play at Dinamo Arena in Erovnuli Liga, Georgia's top tier, which has a spring / autumn split playing season.

FC Iberia 1999 (formerly Saburtelo) also play in Erovnuli Liga, at Mikheil Meskhi Stadium (capacity 27,000) 5 km west of city centre.

FC Gagra was based in Gagra, Abkhazia, but since the Russian occupation has played at David Petriashvili Arena, 10 km north of the centre.

Money exchange kiosks generally have a spread of less than 1% between "buy" and "sell" rates for major currencies—excellent value by western standards.

Shops and restaurants around Kote Afkhazi Street (i.e. Old Tbilisi) are overpriced tourist-trippy-rippy places, double or more of what you pay elsewhere.

Markets:

2nd hand:

Tbilisi is a great place to get cheap and good quality 2nd-hand cloths. Sure, there is lots of cheap stuff from China all over this city, but considering environment and durability, you are probably better off with the former.

Various:

Street side stalls selling Georgian fast food are all over the city. Some kind of hot snack will cost 0.70-2.50 lari.

European and American

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Some outlets of sterile international hamburger "restaurants" exist, also some "freed chicken" imitators in the city, offering the same kind of material Americans consider "food" at prices which are high by local standards.

One is never far from a corner store opening late selling the bare essentials of life late into the night, which always include booze and bread. Georgia is known as the cradle of wine having produced wine since the neolithic period; and locals are very proud of this. Georgian wine was and still is the best in post-Soviet culture and there are many wine tasting shops in the upmarket areas of the city where wine culture is greatly respected. Try one of the famous wines from Kakheti or the other popular regions.

It is possible to have a great night you may or may not remember for only 10 or 15 lari if you follow students to the cheaper bars where tourists are welcome, but you might be shortchanged a few lari. Nightlife tends to congregate north and northwest of the city centre; do your best to avoid the overpriced drinks in the old town.

Also of note (especially for non-drinkers) is the famous Georgian "Laghidze Waters", sweet drinks based on soda and natural fruit and herb syrups, listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Georgia. There is a Laghidze Waters restaurant in Tbilisi selling the genuine article, but Natakhtari is quite similar and sold in corner shops all over.

Tbilisi is the one city in Georgia where coffee vending machines 0.50-0.80 lari may be found, though with a huge load of sugar.

Unless you would like to forget you are in Tbilisi and drink in fancy expensive places where only tourists and immigrants may be found, Chardini and its connecting streets should be avoided as the most blatant tourist trap in the country. The best pubs and cafes in Tbilisi are tucked in unlikely looking side streets of the Old City, often underground or sometimes without even a sign to mark their presence. Keep your eyes and ears open.

Be wary about scams and tourist traps – see #Stay safe below. Some shady clubs/bars have specialised in forcing tourists to pay unjustified amounts of money for drinks and services, especially strip bars. If it's shiny and classy, be wary.

Sameba Cathedral

Due to the countless budget options, prices have dropped significantly in the city. Check out prices on the usual suspect websites and turn up on site stating the price; hostel owners will happily give you the online rate, so they can skip the fee they pay via such websites.

Tbilisi is very safe after the Rose Revolution. You will be welcomed with the cheerful hospitality that is a hallmark of Georgian culture. The police system was reformed completely and the public's trust in police rose dramatically. The police are usually quick to respond, though usually only Georgian and Russian are spoken.

While walking is generally fine, even for solo women, it makes sense to take a bus or taxi home at night. Use common sense and big-city awareness. Night time at the clubs and bars are generally safe but fights between locals can escalate quickly. The taxi service is safe as long as it's a company taxi like "009" or others. The public bus is also a good, safe option for 1 lari.

Extreme caution should be exercised when frequenting any establishment in the "Shardeni" area, between Kote Apkhazi street and the river, on streets "Chardin", "Bambis Rigi", and "Rkinis Rigi". These bars, clubs, and restaurants are well known for operating expensive scams, charging upwards of US$1,000 for a few drinks and forcing tourists to pay. Although a few establishments in this area have a reasonable reputation, such as "KGB", it is safer and cheaper to completely avoid this area. This is the only area of the city where such caution should be taken.

As always, taxi drivers will try to cheat tourists; especially coming from the airport, rigging the meter, misrepresenting the value of the lari or quoting a price in lari then demanding payment in US dollars. Stand your ground and walk away if necessary.

Homeless people and kids

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Beggars have become more aggressive in the tourist areas, and especially children may cling to the legs of wealthy-looking tourists or several adults may cling to a tourist whilst pickpocketing them; yell for help and fight back. Unfortunately, the police appears to be in on this and will often turn a blind eye; or encourage you to let the perpetrators go.

SIM cards can be bought almost anywhere tourists abound (you'll see the signs or will be offered costly at airport), but the most reliable method to obtain the highest quality service is to hike over to the 41.6999744.796263 Magti store on Rustaveli Avenue and purchase a SIM card there. As of October 2022, data prices are quite reasonable: 7 lari gets you one week of unlimited data, while 28 lari gets you four weeks unlimited. Magti's provides 4G coverage to all but the most remote areas of Georgia. Be prepared to wait a while at the Magti store, however; bring something to read. And don't forget to bring your passport.

WIFI is available in some newer establishments, but you cannot count on availability and good experience not even everywhere in the center.

The Government postal service is notorious for being over-priced and unreliable with many thefts, and lost or damaged packages. Use a private postal company for anything important.

More details here: https://www.embassypages.com/georgia

It is worth mentioning that online prices and in-person prices for trips vary widely as of 2022. You can bargain hard or price shop for tours in the old town (there are several competing companies). The tour guide sales people are mostly students who work on commission and many will drop the price in order to make a sale. Competitive pricing for tours is around 2x Marshrutka prices (per person).

Not far east of Tbilisi is the beginning of the Kakheti region with various sights, including:

All sights are covered under the according region article and its cities, especially Rioni Region, Samtskhe-Javakheti and Northwestern Georgia. Some highlights: