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Papers by Elaine Ritch

Emerald Publishing Limited eBooks, Mar 1, 2021

Marketing’s provision of social commentary on gender and sexuality and its potential to advance s... more Marketing’s provision of social commentary on gender and sexuality and its potential to advance societal integration of diverse identities to reflect sexuo-gendered discourse.

Journal of Marketing Management, Apr 18, 2019

This paper explores how consumers deliberate and incorporate concerns for sustainability in their... more This paper explores how consumers deliberate and incorporate concerns for sustainability in their consumption behaviours, through the lens of children's-clothing provisioning. Frustrated by the limited acknowledgement for sustainable issues within the UK mass-market fashion retail-sector, the participants reveal engagaging with social innovation exchange initiatives, including networks of used-children's clothing. The research is informed by 28 professionally working mothers who navigate between meeting the social needs of themselves and their family with their growing knowledge for sustainability. The networks are symbolic of shared social values and building supportive communities that provided emotional and practical pathways for family provisioning. The research illustrates how societal discourse around sustainability is growing and how alternative market structures provide routes that appeal to consumers practically, socially and ideologically. Moreover, the research contributes to understanding opportunities that advance the sustainability agenda, for marketing, social innovation initiatives and progressing sustainable businesses.

MDPI eBooks, Oct 23, 2020

Her research interests focus on cultures of consumption, and their interrelationship to consumer ... more Her research interests focus on cultures of consumption, and their interrelationship to consumer identity and consumption choices. Most recently, Dr. McNeill's work has focussed on overconsumption and sustainability action in production, retail and consumption, with research that examines fashion and textile waste, disposal and slow fashion business models. Other work examines consumer attitude and behaviour in regard to food choices, including the efficacy of food labelling strategies and consumer views of clean meat products. Dr. McNeill teaches research methods at a postgraduate level, as well as innovation and new product development at an undergraduate level.

Journal of Marketing Management, Sep 16, 2022

IGI Global eBooks, Aug 11, 2017

$Research paper thumbnail of An existential trajectory of refracted self: the intersectionality of mothering, fashion and sustainability$

Emerald Publishing Limited eBooks, May 18, 2023

Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal, May 4, 2020

Purpose-The purpose of this study is to explore consumers perceptions of sustainability, includin... more Purpose-The purpose of this study is to explore consumers perceptions of sustainability, including how information is accessed, evaluated and practiced, and how sustainability concepts transfer to fashion consumption. Design-The research adopts a phenomenological approach of unstructured interviews with 28 professionally working mothers. Garment labels indicating concepts of sustainability from UK fashion-retailers were used as a vehicle for discussion. Data were analysed through the theoretical lens of Holbrook's (1999) Typology of Consumer Value. Findings-The findings identity that the participants struggle with understanding how sustainability is compromised within fashion-production and how their sustainability practice fluctuates depending on information, guidance and practical support. The findings also identify preferences for sustainability where sustainable concepts are perceived as adding value. Research limitations/implications-Limitations are assumed through the small focused sample; however, the research does provide rich insight into individual experiences to better understand how everyday deliberations of household management and sustainability concepts are practiced. Practical implications-The findings illustrate pathways for retailers, producers and policymakers to guide sustainability and support sustainability through the use of labels and marketing which will enhance notions of value. Similarly, the findings can enable policy makers to position campaigns and practical solutions that advance the sustainability agenda. Social implications-The research indicates that sustainability is filtering through society and drawing the attention of a broader consumer market, including mainstream consumers who are developing expectations that mainstream fashion-retailers address sustainability. Originality/value-The research is novel in adopting a phenomenological approach that provides a unique insight into how sustainability is experienced in everyday households, through the adaptation of related behaviours and evaluating sustainability concepts.

Sustainability

With the threat of the climate emergency intensifying and limited time left to reduce irreversibl... more With the threat of the climate emergency intensifying and limited time left to reduce irreversible consequences, the need to consider how natural resources are excavated and managed from cradle to grave intensifies. This positions the circular economy (CE) as being highly relevant, particularly for the fashion industry, which is criticised for encouraging continued frequent and impulsive consumption of inexpensive garments with limited longevity. Advancing the circular fashion economy (CFE) has received little attention. Limited research to date has found that consumers have not been socialised to consider fashion acquisition as a collaborative or sharing activity, revealing an established attitude–behaviour gap that prohibits the advancement of the sustainable-fashion agenda. Primarily, fashion is imbued with social and emotional capital, as experienced with the dominant social paradigm (DSP) of fast fashion. This paper argues that similar tactics can be adopted for sustainable fas...

International Journal of Consumer Studies, Feb 21, 2012

Despite the ever increasing levels of fashion consumption, neither retailers nor consumers have a... more Despite the ever increasing levels of fashion consumption, neither retailers nor consumers have as yet implemented sustainability principles to a significant degree. This is despite the fact that sustainability principles are increasingly understood and will be applied by consumers, as long as affordable alternatives in mainstream fashions are available. In a highly competitive fashion retail sector, there exists an opportunity for UK high street fashion retailers to differentiate their brand image through aligning products with consumers' moral frameworks. Using phenomenological interviews, this research explores the fashion consumption experiences of professional women with young children and living in or near Edinburgh, with particular focus on their expression of their own sustainability concerns in their day-today practices. The findings reveal that in the absence of suitable products, information and labelling, consumers apply heuristics to their choices, especially price. They refer to the more familiar ethical food market which serves as a metaphor for fashion-related practices. They talk about trustworthy retailers and about how they deal with and rationalize their own practices where they reveal an obvious attitude-behaviour gap. The women's role of providing for the family adds further complexity in a sector which provides affordable alternative options.

International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Dec 14, 2015

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to explore consumer perceptions and understanding of susta... more Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to explore consumer perceptions and understanding of sustainable concepts within the context of fashion consumption. Design/methodology/approach – Phenomenological interviews provided a platform to explore fashion sustainability and garment labels from current UK high street fashion retailers were used to stimulate discussion. Findings – The findings identify confusion of how sustainability applies to fashion, particularly for environmental issues and there was scepticism regarding higher pricing for organic cotton. However, motivation to avoid fashion produced under exploitation resulted in avoiding retailers alleged of such practice, paying more for garments and purchasing from established UK retailers. Research limitations/implications – The idiographic nature of a phenomenological approach may be considered as a limitation, yet this in-depth exploration of participants with similar socio-demographics enables a rich understanding of the discourse experienced within their lifeworlds. Practical implications – The findings illustrate that consumers are transferring sustainable principles from one context to another, and that by addressing sustainability, fashion retailers could obtain a competitive advantage. Social implications – The findings demonstrate consumers’ increased involvement with sustainability and the role expected from fashion retailers. Originality/value – The research uniquely positions consumers’ reliance on heuristics to guide sustainable preferences, due to the lack of information and this implies that sustainable concepts are increasingly incorporated into everyday behaviours.

Emerald Publishing Limited eBooks, May 18, 2023

Emerald Publishing Limited eBooks, Mar 1, 2021

Journal of Marketing Management, Apr 18, 2019

MDPI eBooks, Oct 23, 2020

Journal of Marketing Management, Sep 16, 2022

IGI Global eBooks, Aug 11, 2017

$Research paper thumbnail of An existential trajectory of refracted self: the intersectionality of mothering, fashion and sustainability$

Emerald Publishing Limited eBooks, May 18, 2023

Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal, May 4, 2020

Sustainability

International Journal of Consumer Studies, Feb 21, 2012

International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Dec 14, 2015

Emerald Publishing Limited eBooks, May 18, 2023

International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 2020

Purpose: To examine consumers' perceptions of retail brand representations of gender-oriented and... more Purpose: To examine consumers' perceptions of retail brand representations of gender-oriented and/or sexuality-oriented identities. The authors explore the value of developing more progressive, inclusive brand values to support more effective retail brand communications and imagery. Design: Photoelicitation, utilising LGBTQIA+/sexuo-gendered imagery from retail brand marketing communications, facilitated discussion within focus groups representing various genders, age generations and sexualities. Findings: Younger generations indicate a preference for fluid gender and sexuality and endorse retail brands that represent this progressive understanding. Gender and age moderate preferences for representative imagery, with older males more resistant to sexuo-gendered messages and females of all ages more accepting. Research limitations: The research is limited in generalisability, geography and demographics. The focussed approach did, however, enable collection of rich, insightful data to underpin evaluations of communicative brand values. Practical implications: The inclusion of diverse and fluid sexuo-gendered identities within the brand values of retailers would enable effective targeting of consumers across a range of more traditional cohorts. Social implications: The evolving ideology towards inclusiveness, identified within the generational cohorts, demonstrates social change through progressive acceptance of more fluid gendered and sexual identities. Originality/value: The research adopts a novel approach to examining diverse, sexuo-gendered imagery within gendered and generational cohorts, offering qualitative examples of a progressive social ideology.

Purpose: The paper explores social dynamics around clothing provisioning for families with young ... more Purpose: The paper explores social dynamics around clothing provisioning for families with young children and how involvement in environmental concerns shapes those dynamics and presents challenges and opportunities in terms of evolving consumption tastes. Through collecting and analysing narratives of mothering and provisioning, we explore the influence of children on mothers’ decision-making in household provisioning; in particular, how family provisioning is impacted by the child’s education into ideas of sustainability through the European initiative of Eco-schools.
Design: The exploratory research design specifically sought the demographic profile identified in extant literature as engaging with sustainability issues to explore how they were interpreted into familial consumption. This resulted in 28 depth interviews exploring a range of related topics with a group of working mothers with a professional occupation.
Findings: The study finds that family consumption behaviour is mediated by relations towards environmental concerns and taste positions taken by both parents and children. It illustrates how care for children’s safety, social resilience and health and wellbeing is habitus informed as well as being the subject of wider institutional logics including educational interventions such as School Ecostatus and participation in mother and child activity groups. However, tensions arose surrounding the children’s socialisation with peers and space was provided to help the children self-actualise. Informants responded to perceived uncertainty around sustainability and clothing by drawing comparisons between contexts of food and clothing provisioning.
Research limitations: The exploratory goal of the in-depth study limited the scope of its empirical work to a small group of participants sharing consumer characteristics and geographical location.
Practical implications: The research provides ideas for retailers, brands and marketers to better position their product offering as it relates to growing family concerns for ecological issues and sustainable consumption, as well as what motivates sustainable behaviours, from both the child and mothers perspective.
Social implications: The research identifies the immersion of sustainability within family households when there are no financial implications, influenced through campaigns, schools and society. This provides examples of what motivates sustainable behaviours for retailers and marketers to develop strategies that can be capitalised on.
Originality/value: the originality of the research emerges through examining how children influence sustainability within households and decision-making, moving beyond health implications to educate children to be responsible consumers through play and authentic experiences.

The purpose of this research was to understand whether consumers transfer sustainable principles ... more The purpose of this research was to understand whether consumers transfer sustainable principles to fashion consumption behaviours. In recognising that the food industry has widened access for consumers concerned with fair transactions between the producer and retailer, environmental degradation and animal welfare through mainstream availability of Fairtrade, organic and free-range food, the research seeks to explore how consumers translate this into their fashion consumption behaviours. This paper presents the idiographic voices of mothers working in a professional occupation who have embraced sustainability in other consumption contexts and are beginning to transfer similar principles to their fashion consumption behaviours. Previous research identified that this demographic were most likely to embrace sustainable behaviours, however this was found to be juxtaposed within a myriad of lifestyle implications, such as financial and time restrictions. Underpinned by phenomenology (Thomson et al., 1989), unstructured interviews of 28 participants living in Edinburgh were interpreted through phenomenological analysis (Smith et al., 2009). The results identify that fashion consumption is more complex than that of food, primarily as fashion is expressive of self and status, whereby the participants were reluctant to sacrifice their identity for production issues from which they are distanced. The use of fashion as a visible indicator within society extended to the children’s appearance. Using Holbrook’s (1999) Typology of Consumer Value as a framework, the paper argues that certain values are substituted to cope with chaotic lifestyles; the mothers’ focus centred upon providing for the family. This offers justification for behaviours that may be perceived as a misalignment with moral ideology and was interpreted as appealing to a higher loyalty: that of the family over unsubstantiated claims of social and environmental exploitation. Moreover, when the participants understood the implications of their behaviours in relation to sustainability, this has been adopted as part of the family’s everyday behaviours.

Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to explore consumer perceptions and understanding of sustai... more Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to explore consumer perceptions and understanding of sustainable concepts within the context of fashion consumption.
Design: Phenomenological interviews provided a platform to explore fashion sustainability and garment labels from current UK high street fashion retailers were used to stimulate discussion.
Findings: The findings identify confusion of how sustainability applies to fashion, particularly for environmental issues and there was scepticism regarding higher pricing for organic cotton. However, motivation to avoid fashion produced under exploitation resulted in avoiding retailers alleged of such practice, paying more for garments and purchasing from established UK retailers.
Research limitations: The idiographic nature of a phenomenological approach may be considered as a limitation, yet this in-depth exploration of participants with similar socio-demographics enables a rich understanding of the discourse experienced within their lifeworlds.
Practical implications: The findings illustrate that consumers are transferring sustainable principles from one context to another, and that by addressing sustainability, fashion retailers could obtain a competitive advantage.
Social implications: The findings demonstrate consumers’ increased involvement with sustainability and the role expected from fashion retailers.
Originality/value: The research uniquely positions consumers’ reliance on heuristics to guide sustainable preferences, due to the lack of information and this implies that sustainable concepts are increasingly incorporated into everyday behaviours.

The adverse environmental impacts of plastic bags, including production energy costs, limited lif... more The adverse environmental impacts of plastic bags, including production energy costs, limited lifespan, increasing landfill content and inability to biodegrade, provide symbolic and practical evidence of a ‘throwaway’ consumer culture which acts as a significant barrier to sustainable consumption in particular and sustainable development in general. Decoupling consumer behaviour from plastic bag use is therefore an important challengein the pursuit of sustainable consumption as a precursor to achieving sustainable development. This article provides a critical evaluation of that challenge, set within the theoretical framework of sustainable development. It examines the adverse environmental impacts of plastic bag use and evaluates initiatives by governments and businesses internationally to change consumer behaviour regarding the use of plastic bags in line with sustainable development principles. The politics of this agenda are analysed using a combination of consumer policy and public policy perspectives. Finally, the article draws conclusions regarding the earlier analysis.

The paper seeks to recuperate autonomy within debates around identity as the discursive construct... more The paper seeks to recuperate autonomy within debates around identity as the discursive construction of self (Foucault, 1984:42) through exploring the ‘greening’ of intensive mothering discourse and the emergence of new subject positions and practices of accountability. It argues that facets of ideologies of ethical and sustainable consumption are inscribed within this discourse, authorising identity work and furnishing everyday provisioning routines with significance and urgency; and that related social practices that are marked for ‘greening’ diligence or negligence are not merely situated and productive, but transformative of mothering identities, roles and norms. We report the findings of a study of a group of professional working mothers as they negotiate competing and conflictual spaces of doing ‘green’ mothering. This opens an analytical window on the diversity of signifying practices that characterise how informants play with boundaries and ambiguity in creative ways, using images of responsible consumption and sustainable living to negotiate appeals to social wellbeing while authorising claims to ‘greening’ competence. Our interviews capture discursive events that rearticulate social messages, mixing them with brand appeals and media content that situate the invention of ‘new’ mothering with regard to flows of ‘greening’ discourse. Inventive appeals and related subject positions speak of a repertoire of strategic messaging practices, themselves consistent with a heightened reflexivity shaping content and presentation through practices we understand as modes of neutralisation – forms of self-governance and accountability that seek to generate resources of resilience that help reinforce green mothering identity claims made to self and others. Through socialising ‘sustainability’ in this way we contribute to our understanding of the social surrogacy of brands (Sherry et al, 2009; Holt, 2012) and its problematics.

International Journal of Management Cases (16/2), Aug 2014

ABSTRACT: The purpose of this research was to understand whether consumers transfer sustainable p... more ABSTRACT: The purpose of this research was to understand whether consumers transfer sustainable principles to fashion consumption behaviours. In recognising that the food industry has widened access for consumers concerned with fair transactions between the producer and retailer, environmental degradation and animal welfare through mainstream availability of Fairtrade, organic and free-range food, the research seeks to explore how consumers translate this into their fashion consumption behaviours. This paper presents the idiographic voices of mothers working in a professional occupation who have embraced sustainability in other consumption contexts and are beginning to transfer similar principles to their fashion consumption behaviours. Previous research identified that this demographic were most likely to embrace sustainable behaviours, however this was found to be juxtaposed within a myriad of lifestyle implications, such as financial and time restrictions. Underpinned by phenomenology (Thomson et al., 1989), unstructured interviews of 28 participants living in Edinburgh were interpreted through phenomenological analysis (Smith et al., 2009). The results identify that fashion consumption is more complex than that of food, primarily as fashion is expressive of self and status, whereby the participants were reluctant to sacrifice their identity for production issues from which they are distanced. The use of fashion as a visible indicator within society extended to the children’s appearance. Using Holbrook’s (1999) Typology of Consumer Value as a framework, the paper argues that certain values are substituted to cope with chaotic lifestyles; the mothers’ focus centred upon providing for the family. This offers justification for behaviours that may be perceived as a misalignment with moral ideology and was interpreted as appealing to a higher loyalty: that of the family over unsubstantiated claims of social and environmental exploitation. Moreover, when the participants understood the implications of their behaviours in relation to sustainability, this has been adopted as part of the family’s everyday behaviours.
Keywords: fashion, consumer behaviour, sustainability, mothers, children

Abstract Populations are changing and the number of older people in the UK is currently larger th... more Abstract
Populations are changing and the number of older people in the UK is currently larger than the number of those aged under 16 years. Historically, older people have been described as impoverished, however this can no longer be assumed. Often those who reach retirement have saved or invested specifically for this time and also have benefited from employer contributions to pension schemes. Further, it has been suggested that older people are both ignored and misunderstood by financial service product and service providers. This pilot project sought the opinion of older people regarding the suitability of bank accounts for those who are entering and reaching retirement age, along with a financial product available in the UK, Equity Release. The pilot study was in two parts. An initial questionnaire was distributed in 2008 along with a request for future participation in a World Café, which was held at Queen Margaret University (QMU) in June 2008. The research addressed three areas:

• Bank accounts, including the opinions on an age specific account ‘Scottish Senior’ for those aged over 50;
• Perception of equity release products and attitudes to inheritance;
• The introduction of a quality mark - No Nonsense - which would indicate compliance with straightforward language and clear marketing criteria.

The global population is ageing and currently in the UK there are more people aged over 65 years ... more The global population is ageing and currently in the UK there are more people aged over 65 years than under 16 years. With this population growth of older people, there are financial implications for the government in providing pensions, social care and health care. Increasingly, those who can, are expected to make their own provisions for retirement funding, and it is expected that, for some people, equity release products will have a role in providing finance for post-work years. However, opinions regarding equity release are varied and those who campaign for the rights of older people in the UK, such as Age Concern and Help the Aged, have expressed the opinion that the needs and opinions of older people are generally overlooked in relation to those products and services.

This article will examine the use of psychodrama to communicate information and varying opinions of equity release products and bank accounts, including additional benefits, aimed specifically at the over 50 years market. Psychodrama uses dramatic action to explore issues and offer insight. The drama was featured in the World Café to stimulate discussion between groups of older people in relation to issues, concerns and attitudes to financial products and services. The World Café is a series of interchanging mini focus groups where concepts can be discussed in depth. The drama offered alternative and opposing opinions, informing participants of the main points for consideration and was found to be particularly successful in introducing and informing key points for discussion. Further, the World Café facilitated an easy flow of conversation about financial products and services which are often considered dry and private, providing results that would benefit the production and design of innovative financial products and services in the new emerging and growing market of those aged over 50 years.

The purpose of this pilot study was to focus on the suitability of selected financial products fo... more The purpose of this pilot study was to focus on the suitability of selected financial products for older people. Bank accounts and equity release products were selected for this study by an expert advisory panel. New marketing initiatives are being used to promote bank accounts, including forms of insurance, for the ‘50+’ market. Also, older people are now expected to provide for their retirement and it is anticipated that equity release will be one product which may be used to fund and maintain consumer lifestyles. In the first phase of the study, a questionnaire was distributed to 152 people aged over 50 years in Scotland. Eighty-three were completed, a response rate of 55%. The results informed the development of questions for the second phase which were discussed with 46 participants via the
World Café in June 2008, enabling a deeper insight into their opinions. The research found that consumers had lost trust in financial product and service providers because of the perceived excessive profits of banks and lack of customer service. Further, many products and services were prohibited for or incurred extra costs to those aged over 60 or 65 years, leaving limited choices, and equity release products were seen as a last resort for those in financial difficulty. Although the profitability of banks has changed dramatically since the completion of data collection, the issues identified by older consumers in Scotland will be of international interest. The demographic changes resulting in an increasing proportion of elderly people in the population are reflected throughout the UK and many Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development countries. Similar financial products and services, which were the focus of this study, are promoted internationally, offering opportunities to replicate the research methods.

International Journal of …, Jan 1, 2009

The adverse environmental impacts of plastic bags, including production energy costs, limited lif... more The adverse environmental impacts of plastic bags, including production energy costs, limited lifespan, increasing landfill content and inability to biodegrade, provide symbolic and practical evidence of a 'throwaway' consumer culture which acts as a significant barrier to sustainable consumption in particular and sustainable development in general. Decoupling consumer behaviour from plastic bag use is therefore an important challenge in the pursuit of sustainable consumption as a precursor to achieving sustainable development. This article provides a critical evaluation of that challenge, set within the theoretical framework of sustainable development. It examines the adverse environmental impacts of plastic bag use and evaluates initiatives by governments and businesses internationally to change consumer behaviour regarding the use of plastic bags in line with sustainable development principles. The politics of this agenda are analysed using a combination of consumer policy and public policy perspectives. Finally, the article draws conclusions regarding the earlier analysis.

International Journal of Consumer …, Jan 1, 2010

This article examines a novel strategy to get older people talking about their financial needs an... more This article examines a novel strategy to get older people talking about their financial needs and equity release. A questionnaire was used to identify issues which were then written into a drama on equity release products and bank accounts. This dramatic representation of the issues preceded discussion among older people at a World Café eventa format that involves a series of circulating focus groups where concepts can be discussed in depth and recorded. The drama offered an initial stimulus of alternative and opposing opinions and facilitated conversation about financial products and services which are often considered uninteresting and private. The aim was to record ideas in the discussions that would benefit the production and design of innovative financial products that would meet the needs of people over 50 years.

Despite the ever increasing levels of fashion consumption, neither retailers nor consumers have a... more Despite the ever increasing levels of fashion consumption, neither retailers nor consumers have as yet implemented sustainability principles to a significant degree. This is despite the fact that sustainability principles are increasingly understood and will be applied by consumers, as long as affordable alternatives in mainstream fashions are available. In a highly competitive fashion retail sector, there exists an opportunity for UK high street fashion retailers to differentiate their brand image through aligning products with consum- ers’ moral frameworks. Using phenomenological interviews, this research explores the fashion consumption experiences of professional women with young children and living in or near Edinburgh, with particular focus on their expression of their own sustainability concerns in their day-to-day practices. The findings reveal that in the absence of suitable products, information and labelling, consumers apply heuristics to their choices, especially price. They refer to the more familiar ethical food market which serves as a metaphor for fashion-related practices. They talk about trustworthy retailers and about how they deal with and rationalize their own practices where they reveal an obvious attitude-behaviour gap. The women’s role of providing for the family adds further complexity in a sector which provides affordable alternative options.

International Journal of Consumer Studies, 2010

The purpose of this pilot study was to focus on the suitability of selected financial products fo... more The purpose of this pilot study was to focus on the suitability of selected financial products for older people. Bank accounts and equity release products were selected for this study by an expert advisory panel. New marketing initiatives are being used to promote bank accounts, including forms of insurance, for the '50+' market. Also, older people are now expected to provide for their retirement and it is anticipated that equity release will be one product which may be used to fund and maintain consumer lifestyles. In the first phase of the study, a questionnaire was distributed to 152 people aged over 50 years in Scotland. Eighty-three were completed, a response rate of 55%. The results informed the development of questions for the second phase which were discussed with 46 participants via the World Café in June 2008, enabling a deeper insight into their opinions. The research found that consumers had lost trust in financial product and service providers because of the perceived excessive profits of banks and lack of customer service. Further, many products and services were prohibited for or incurred extra costs to those aged over 60 or 65 years, leaving limited choices, and equity release products were seen as a last resort for those in financial difficulty. Although the profitability of banks has changed dramatically since the completion of data collection, the issues identified by older consumers in Scotland will be of international interest. The demographic changes resulting in an increasing proportion of elderly people in the population are reflected throughout the UK and many Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development countries. Similar financial products and services, which were the focus of this study, are promoted internationally, offering opportunities to replicate the research methods.

International Journal of Consumer Studies, 2010

Challenges for Fashion, Global Fashion Conference, 2021

This paper examines new forms of communication and marketing as a means to forge closer relations... more This paper examines new forms of communication and marketing as a means to forge closer relationships between beauty and cosmetic brands and consumers. As technological innovation has expanded access to information and marketing opportunities, the global beauty and cosmetic industry has become more competitive. Novelty-hungry younger consumers are disinterested in conventional marketing; instead, they seek a more intimate and social relationship with brands. This type of personal relationship is similar to a
Parasocial Interaction (PSI) is a one-sided relationship between a media user and a media figure (Horton & Wohl, 1956). Horton & Strauss (1957) emphasise that the performer makes initiation in an exposure situation; for example, a brand using the performer to expose the audience to a product or service (Dibble et al., 2016). With continued exposure, interaction can develop into a Parasocial Relationship (Hartmann & Schramm, 2008), underpinned by three levels: cognitive, affective and behavioural - all of which are important in creating long-lasting relationships amid media user and persona. While Horton & Wohl (1956) and Horton & Strauss (1957) developed this theory in relation to mass-media from television personalities, digital transformation in marketing communications and social media platforms has magnified PSI and PSR's potential to increase brand relationships with consumers. This research illuminates consumer perceptions of PSI and PSR in the beauty industry context and, in particular, beauty vloggers.

Social media is integral to the facilitation of PSI and PSR; opinion leaders and digital celebrities now share their daily lives on platforms such as Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube, arguably becoming omni-connected to their audiences (Chung & Cho, 2017; Kishiya, 2018). Since 2012, it has been recognised that PSI can be utilised on social media for marketing purposes; therefore, understanding how successful PSI can be triggered to encourage a PSR has become important for academics and marketing managers (Lueck, 2012; Rasmussen, 2018). YouTube is a popular platform associated with successful PSI and PSR, and the platform's characteristics provides an opportunity for beauty Vloggers to create content. Beauty Vlogger is the term used to explicate a content creator who posts beauty-related content (Hadriana et al., 2019; Sokolova & Kefi, 2020). Beauty brands use vloggers as influencers and opinion leaders on YouTube, to promote their products, mostly to younger consumers (Hadriana, et al, 2019). Xiang et al. (2016) suggest that millennial consumers are most influenced through PSI and PSR on SM due to their need for technology and interconnectivity (Barton et al., 2014). Generation-Z are of special interest to marketing due to their growing spending powers and their ability to influence older generations (Bone et al. 2020).

Research issue to be addressed
In 2020, Statista (2021) valued the global Instagram influencer market at 2.3 billion USD. Brands are spending millions per year to employ attractive and influential media personae to endorse their products on social media platforms. Annual beauty-related content on YouTube reached 169 billion views in 2018 (Tankovska, 2021). An abundance of literature exists regarding PSI and PSR positively, acting as a problem-solver for distrust. However, less research is available involving consumer perceptions of opinion leaders and influencers that examines credibility and attractiveness among Scottish consumers, subsequently affecting influence on purchase decision. Therefore, this exploratory study examines the experience of PSI and PSR to as a useful tool to marketers who attempting to influence purchase decisions of 18- 25-year-old Scottish females.
Given the research issue to be addressed the following questions inform the study:
RQ1: To understand the influence of PSI/PSR upon the beauty purchase behaviour of 18-25-year-old Scottish females
RQ2: To determine whether stimulating PSI/PSR within the digital beauty industry is constructive for marketers when attempting to influence purchase behaviour of 18-25-year- old Scottish females

Methodology used
As the nature of this research is to examine subjective opinions, beliefs and experiences of young women when exposed to PSI or when experiencing PSR, the research is interpretive and data were gathered through in-depth interviews with 15 respondents (Guest et al., 2017). Convenience sampling was adopted to access which the key target audience for influencer-type advertising regarding beauty products (Hennigan, 2020): 18-25-year-old Scottish females. Djafarova and Rushworth (2017) found that, compared with traditional celebrities, digital celebrities, such as those on Instagram or YouTube, impact purchase behaviours of female consumers aged 18–30 years, because this demographic considers influencers and opinion leaders to be socially closer to them (Hwang & Zhang, 2018). The interviews were audio-recorded, transcribed and analysed to identify patterns and themes. Coding included identification of similar phrases or expressions which could be grouped under within themes.

Results achieved (conclusions) or expected as well as their relevance for theory and practice
Three themes emerged from analysis: Scepticism; Proficiency; Authenticity. Scepticism was a consequence of knowing that PSI was a commercial activity to increase sales, and emerged from the participants expressing constructs of trust, genuine and credibility which impacted upon PSRs. Proficiency related to 'knowledge' and 'expertise', where vloggers with professional experience in the beauty industry were considered to have more qualified and honest opinions. Authenticity included notions of inclusivity and reduced use of filters manipulating the imagery, along with a personable presence; this expanded to how PSI was experienced on different social media platforms and how the platform mechanisms encouraged building a PSR. From the findings, it seems that PSI and PSR have positive effects on purchase decisions and, however, scepticism of opinion leaders and influencers in relation to paid-promotions, sponsored content and incongruent influencer-brand-fit is a problem which undermines the proficiency and authenticity of online personae. The participants seemed more amenable to influencers and opinion leaders who demonstrated proficiency and in their content; moreover, the data reveals that expectation from this cohort is that the brands and influencers with whom they engage should be actively progressing discourse on inclusivity. This is not surprising as support for the Black Lives Movement and LGBTQIA+ has been identified in other contexts, but the expectation is for politically inclusive relationships in the beauty industry. The results are not only beneficial to digital beauty brands and influencers, but also for fashion brands and other efforts to influence consumer behaviour, such as influencing sustainable fashion practice. This research contributes to research in two ways. First, it extends understanding on existing literature on generational effects of social media interactions (e.g. Goodrich 2013); secondly, it explores PSI and the development of PSR as the basis of influencer partnership marketing within the context of one study.

The aim of this research is to explore consumer engagement and involvement with the circular fash... more The aim of this research is to explore consumer engagement and involvement with the circular fashion economy as means to address the unsustainability of the fashion industry, which currently contributes more to climate change that the aviation industry (United Nations, 2020). Although some fashion retailers engage with aspects of sustainability, mainly the focus is to increase sales; yet the excavation of scarce resources, production and consumption inevitably lead to garment disposal, often to landfill. Most UK fashion retailers encourage consumers to donate unwanted garments to charity, often with the reward of a voucher for more consumption (Ritch, 2020). There are, however, two implications of this: responsibility for sustainability transfers to consumers rather than addressing sustainability within design, resource selection or production. Moreover, the rise in clothing donated for reuse supersedes the size of the resale market; therefore, it is often sold onto developing countries where it displaces local markets. Recently the volume of donated garments to be exported to developing countries has been illuminated by Brexit border delays (Partington, 2021). Westernised businesses mine developing countries for natural resources, utilise cheap labour for production and return unwanted consumer waste (landfill and donated garments), compromising the environment and displacing local markets. With the ever-decreasing price of fast-fashion, some online fashion retailers were selling garments for under a (UK) pound during the pandemic lockdown in the UK (Blackall, 2020). Low pricing encourages more frequent consumption, and ultimately disposal, exacerbating the impact on the environment. This, we would argue, has reduced consumer thresholds for how much they are willing to pay for fashion (Ritch and Brownlie, 2016). However, the global Covid-19 pandemic, which resulted in suspending economic activities in many countries, including restrictions on retailing, had a couple of consequences: firstly, there were reduced social interactions that required the consumption of new fashion, which may impact on normalised consumer behaviours; secondly, there were positive environmental manifestations due to reduced industrialisation, such as the return of sea and wildlife to the canals in Venice (Brunton, 2020) and nature was more appreciated as a form of entertainment; thirdly, the pandemic has provided consumers with an opportunity to reflect on what they actually need in life, as well as the world we live in (Brydges et al., 2021). Consumers may now reward companies that treat their environment with respect (McKinsey & Company, 2021) Despite the global pandemic, the threat of climate change continues - yet the suspension of commerce and social norms may have a longer impact on consumer behaviours, providing alternative leisure activities from traditional shopping which may include alternative consumption practices. This research seeks to explore if more consumers are engaging with alternative consumption modules due to concern for the negative impact the fashion industry has for sustainability.

Research issue to be addressed
To address those issues, developed countries should assume responsibility for ‘closing the loop’ of consumption and disposal by extending the lifecycle of garments and textiles (Colucci and Vecchi, 2021). The sharing economy offers such opportunities and is captured within collaborative consumption and redistribution markets (Ritch, 2019; Hamari, Sjöklint, & Ukkonen, 2015; Heinrich, 2013). Collaborative consumption expands the use of commodities to a wide range of consumers, through loaning and renting, as captured within a library system (Harper, 2018; Martin, Upman, & Budd, 2015). Often operating as social innovation enterprises, such as books, toys, and tools, more recently private enterprises have capitalised on this trend, with car sharing initiatives and garment renting, such as the Lena library in Amsterdam. Redistribution markets offer an opportunity for consumers to sell unwanted fashion garments and accessories, as well as make purchases (Albinsson & Perera, 2012; Luchs et al., 2011). Advances within redistribution markets are digitally led, through mobile applications, such as Depop, Vinted and eBay as circular consumer-to-consumer models, as opposed to being driven by the fashion industry (Ritch, 2019). Whilst online redistribution activities are growing in popularity, this is insignificant when compared to annual fashion sales. Currently, only one fashion retailer (Cos, part of the H&M group) provides consumers the ability to resell unwanted clothing through their website. Yet, garment resale opportunities are gaining in prominence. For example, London department store Selfridges opened a permanent ‘pre-loved’ department in 2019 (Marriott, 2019), and multi-national retailers Ikea, John Lewis and Asda are also engaging with the resale market (BBC News, 2021; Butler, 2021). These examples illustrate the missed opportunity for retailers to invest in closing the loop for fashion sustainability to address the volume of clothing sold and disposed of.

Little is known of how consumers engage with the fashion circular economy and what would encourage higher involvement and engagement. Yet, arguably consumers, especially generation-Z, are more aware of fashion sustainability (Amed et al., 2019; Frances and Hoefel, 2018). These are also cohorts who increasingly use mobile applications for socialising, news and accessing information and consumption (Levin, 2020). Further, life after the Coronavirus pandemic may focus more acutely on sustainability, where digital technology may enable consumers to prioritise circular fashion markets with easier consumption and reselling routes. Moreover, whilst influencers drive fast-fashion consumption, will a similar approach shift accepted social norms to embrace the circular economy?

To better understand the potential of the circular economy, an exploratory inductive interpretative approach was deemed appropriate to understand consumer perspectives and reflections of their experience over the last year. Therefore, dyadic interviews targeting specific consumer generational profiles (3 pairs of Generation-X, 3 pairs of Generation-Y and 3 pairs of Generation-Z) were carried out in Scotland. Due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic and restrictions on gatherings, the interviews were carried out on Microsoft Teams. In total, 24 participants contributed to the data collected which enabled a rich insight based on assumptions from the fashion and sustainable consumption literature. The three examples of alternative economic model’s were presented to the groups to stimulate discussion and perceptions, as well as how this would align with their current behaviours and expectations of fashion retailers. The analysis of these first qualitative results will be presented at the conference. The findings will offer insight for new innovative fashion business models and marketing management.

Our submission is a statement of interest to explore the motivations and barriers of participatio... more Our submission is a statement of interest to explore the motivations and barriers of participation in alternative CE consumption models (ACECM). We focus on fast-fashion, as this model dominates fashion consumption, particularly for younger consumers, yet also contributes greatly to environmental degradation (Niinimäki et al., 2020) by encouraging hyper-consumption Kidd et al., 2021; Lazell et al., 2018). While much has been made of the impact of the fast-fashion industry on the environment (Fletcher and Tham, 2019), fast-fashion retailers are yet to meaningfully respond to criticisms of an accelerated supply-chain that encourages frequent consumption with limited lifespan (Ritch, 2020). Retailer responses include encouraging consumers to return unwanted clothing to retailer stores to be rewarded for a voucher, encouraging more consumption (Ritch, 2019). However, recently the volume of donated garments to be exported to developing countries has been illuminated by Brexit border delays (Partington, 2021). Westernised businesses mine developing countries for natural resources, utilise cheap labour for production and return unwanted consumer waste (landfill and donated garments), compromising the environment and displacing local markets. To address these issues developed countries should assume responsibility for ‘closing the loop’ of consumption and disposal by extending the lifecycle of garments and textiles. ACECM offer such opportunities, yet little is known of how consumers engage with ACECM, especially for fashion (Park and Armstrong, 2017), and what would encourage higher involvement and engagement.
We are currently designing the qualitative and quantitative questions for dissemination over the next few months. We intend to begin with hosting four focus groups with students, and this data will be developed for wider investigation through an online survey. The focus groups will utilise convenience sampling, before applying non-probability sampling for the survey. The research will explore ACECM’s, such as collaborative consumption, redistribution models and repurposing, all of which expand the lifecycle of garments and textiles (Becker-Leifhold, and Iran, 2018; Park and Armstrong, 2017). ACECM’s have had success in previous consumption contexts, including social enterprises that operate similarly to library systems (books, toys, and tools) (Ozanne & Ballantine, 2010; Phipps et al., 2012); more recently private enterprises have capitalised on this trend, with car sharing initiatives and garment renting, such as the Lena library in Amsterdam (Ritch and McColl. 2021). Advances within redistribution markets are digitally led, through mobile applications, such as Depop, Vinted and eBay as circular consumer-to-consumer models, as opposed to being driven by the fashion industry. Whilst online redistribution activities are growing in popularity, this is insignificant when compared to annual fashion sales. Currently, only one fashion retailer (Cos, part of the H&M group) provides consumers the ability to resell unwanted clothing through their website. Yet, garment resale opportunities are gaining in prominence, London department store Selfridges opened a permanent ‘pre-loved’ department in 2019 (Marriott, 2019). Both of these examples illustrate the missed opportunity for retailers to invest in closing the loop for fashion sustainability to address the volume of clothing sold and disposed of.
Preliminary results will be available for July 2021.
Becker-Leifhold, C. and Iran, S. 2018. Collaborative fashion consumption – drivers, barriers and future pathways, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 22 No. 2, pp. 189-208. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2017-0109
Fletcher, K. and Tham, M. 2019. Earth Logic: Fashion Action Research Plan. Available from: https://earthlogic.info/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Earth-Logic-eversion.pdf [Accessed 14th September 2020].
Lazell, J, Magrizos, S and Carrigan, M. 2018, Over-Claiming the Circular Economy: The Missing Dimensions, Social Business, Vol 8, No. 1, pp. 103-114.https://dx.doi.org/10.1362/204440818
Marriott, H. 2019. Selfridges opens secondhand clothing concession with Vestiaire Collective. The Guardian. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/oct/31/selfridges-opens-secondhand-clothing-concession-with-vestiaire-collective [Accessed 15 February 2021]
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. and Gwilt, A. 2020. The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1, 189–200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
Ozanne, L. K., & Ballantine, P. W. 2010. Sharing as a form of anti-consumption? An examination of toy library users. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, Volume 9, pp. 485–498.
Park, H. and Armstrong, C.M.J. 2017.Collaborative apparel consumption in the digital sharing economy: An agenda for academic inquiry, International journal of consumer studies, Vol.41 No. 5, pp.465-474. http://DOI: 10.1111/ijcs.12354
Partington, R. 2021. Second-hand clothing mountain piles up as Brexit halts exports to EU. The Guardian. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2021/feb/03/second-hand-clothing-mountain-piles-up-as-brexit-halts-exports-to-eu [Accessed 15 February 2021]
Phipps M, Ozanne LK, Luchs MG, Subrahmanyam S, Kapitan S, Catlin JR, Gau R, Walker Naylor R, Rose RL, Simpson B, Weaver T. 2012. Understanding the inherent complexity of sustainable consumption: A social cognitive framework. Journal of Business Research, Volume 66, pp. 1227-1234. DOI:10.1016/j.jbusres.2012.08.016.
Ritch, E.L. and McColl, J. New Perspectives on Critical Marketing and Consumer Society. Emerald Publishing.
Ritch, E.L. 2020. Experiencing fashion: the interplay between consumer value and sustainability. Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal. Volume 23 No. 2, pp. 265-285. https://doi.org/10.1108/QMR-09-2019-0113
Ritch, E.L. 2019. From a Mother to Another’: creative post-consumption experiences of used children’s clothing underpinned by sustainability. Journal of Marketing Management. 35(7-8): 770-794. https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2019.1602555

Curriculum development for business and society: Marketing, Design and Creativity – underpinned b... more Curriculum development for business and society: Marketing, Design and Creativity – underpinned by sustainability – Elaine Ritch
Climate change scientists warn that only nine-years are left to reverse the consequences of exacerbated industrialisation and human activity. Global governance and businesses have been slow to respond, focusing on profit generation, despite increased concern for sustainability in mainstream markets. Post recovery from the Covid-19 global pandemic focuses on resuming previous ‘normal’ economic activity, despite this offering an opportunity to repurpose commerce; especially as many environmentalists’ asset that the pandemic is a consequence of abusing ecosystems. At this cornerstone of reverting back to an economic system some believe is no longer fit for purpose, and that may bring about the fall of humanity, the need for embedding sustainability firmly into the curriculum is vastly important. One way we introduce sustainability at Glasgow Caledonian University (GCU) to marketing students is in the level one module: Marketing, Design and Creativity (MD&C). This is fitting, as GCU is the University for the Common Good and teaching and research is underpinned by the UN SDG’s. As one of the first modules that students will experience at GCU, the purpose of the module is to recognise that:

* The role of sustainability fitting alongside other consumer behaviours and lifestyles
* The advantages of sustainability as adding value to a business
* The role of creativity in developing concepts underpinned by sustainability
* Marketing key sustainability concepts succinctly through visual media

This MD&C module is partnered by the Scottish Innovation Enterprise (SIE) and delivered weekly through a two-hour lecture and two-hour workshop with a graphic designer. In week 2 and 3 lectures, students’ participant in SIE workshops; the first is ‘Future Ready’ which covers how innovation has progressed societal and industry change and how to identity social triggers than indicate new change. This active workshop examines four consumption contexts: food; fashion; transport; and retail. Working in groups of four, students select a context and collaborate on recognising change within those consumption contexts along with the key sustainability issues. This underpins preparation for the following workshop: ‘Creating Ideas With Impact’. Taking part in those workshops enables students to apply for the SIE bronze and silver innovation awards, adding value to their CV. Attaining the gold award requires some additional work.

For assessment, students are tasked with developing a sustainable business concept that responds to the context group they have chosen, through a marketing brochure (constructed using InDesign) and a video promoting their concept. To do this, they have to understand how the context is impacted by sustainability, how consumers navigate the marketplace and what key issues would encourage consumers to engage with their sustainable concept. This is where the graphic designer adds value to the module, understanding the visual connections, such as the font, colours, images and the layout that are contained in the brochure and video. This also responds to marketing industry requirements for graduates to be able to use InDesign to present their ideas. Student evaluations reveal that they enjoy the topicality of this module, as well as the input from SIE and graphic design.

The dominant global fashion system is shaped by an underpinning goal of infinite economic growth ... more The dominant global fashion system is shaped by an underpinning goal of infinite economic growth leading to environmental and social sacrifices. Research has shown that systems change could advance a sustainability transformation for the industry and that coordinated community action can support this process. The development of systems theory applied to fashion and sustainability is limited but expanding. Two major concepts are apparent throughout systems literature and across various disciplines: systems thinking and systems change. Both are innovative processes adopted to develop integrative approaches to social change with a holistic focus on the relationships and connections between parts that make up a system. It is accepted that systems consist of elements, interconnections, and a function or purpose. The dominant global fashion system can be explained through this framework consisting of multiple stakeholders (elements), the relationships, dependencies and power dynamics between these stakeholders (interconnections) and the goal of growth and profit maximisation for shareholders (function or purpose). Overall, systems change as a process involves investigating and influencing the interconnections between elements of a system with a focus on altering power structures between system stakeholders.
This study examines the scope of the role of real-world venture Sustainable Fashion Scotland (SFS) as a backbone organisation that supports a community-systems change approach. A backbone organisation coordinates the community and facilitates collaborative efforts to collectively advance systems change. Emerging from extant systems theory literature, this research examines five empirical change frameworks to derive and develop evidence-based recommendations to be added to with context specific to fashion and SFS. The combination of context-specific and more general change frameworks allowed a more comprehensive analysis. The five frameworks offer a structured academic approach upon which to scope the role of a backbone organisation to develop recommendations for SFS to facilitate a community-systems change approach. This was followed by a focus group with industry stakeholders in Scotland to influence the final recommendations. Systems-level strategies discussed by focus group participants resulted in two overarching themes with the aim of achieving change at a national level: to influence legislation and education; and to increase cross-sector collaboration and citizen participation. The two themes represent separate top-down and bottom-up approaches, emulating the co-evolution process and interaction required between powerful and less powerful organisations in the fashion industry to achieve systems change - a process which is lacking due to the competitive nature of the industry. To form the final recommendations for SFS to develop its role, analysis of the change frameworks and focus group context-specific data is consolidated into five guiding principles. The results indicate there is opportunity for SFS to establish its role as a backbone organisation to effectively coordinate system stakeholders. Derived from the change framework analysis, the guiding principles are intended to function as fundamental value-based guidelines that will direct the actions of the backbone organisation. These principles can be adopted and iteratively adapted by SFS when developing its backbone organisation strategy to effectively coordinate system stakeholders and collective impact to encourage a sustainable and thriving fashion industry.

Understanding consumers’ motives to engage with and purchase ethical and sustainable fashion bene... more Understanding consumers’ motives to engage with and purchase ethical and sustainable fashion benefits both academics and practitioners, by enabling more considered approaches to the provision of fashion. Extant research highlights the moderating role of socio-demographic and psychographic characteristics within fashion decision-making, yet there is less understanding of how such drivers are underpinned by ethical and sustainable ideologies – essentially, how do consumers understand ethical and sustainable fashion and how does this affect their decision-making. Given the need to explore novel approaches to the fashion system, focusing upon a younger, fashion-dominant segment allows insight to the everyday challenges of fashion-decision making, with people still developing their personal and social understanding of fashion and of sustainability.
Despite the increase in awareness of ethical and sustainable issues amongst consumers, research suggests that the drivers of fashion choice remain constant, with price, style, convenience and awareness prioritised within consumers’ thinking. Typically, these are barriers to more ethical and sustainable fashion choices. Understanding how younger consumers accommodate complex notions of sustainability within their decisions offers significant potential for a restructuring of offerings within these criteria of choice. The ethical fashion literature offers consistent evidence of an attitude-behaviour gap, where consumers’ ethical preferences are not manifest in their consumption. Although sales of ethical goods are increasing, this is insignificant when contrasted against the volume of non-ethical sales. Changing the behaviours of fashion consumers at the start of their consumer journeys would hold particular value. Millennials’, in particular, appear to be a cohort primed for such change, given their:
• Increased awareness of sustainability (now adopted as a buzz word in fashion retailing)
• ‘Future society’ outlook (climate scientists report that there are only nine years left to halt the irreversible damage to the planet that threatens humanity)
• Belief in a human action/planetary salvation imperative (millennials belief that planetary damage is a consequence of human activity and its reversal is the most pressing issue within society)
This research examines how millennial consumers reconcile concerns for sustainability with their fashion consumption behaviours. Data were gathered in Edinburgh from millennial consumers in early 2021, through semi-structured interviews in social media spaces, and analysed thematically. Findings reveal that whilst millennials still feel restricted by price, style and convenience, their increased awareness of ethical and sustainable issues exposed deeper tensions. In particular, the lure of fast-fashion, with its churning of inexpensive, novel styles facilitates immediacy and encourages frequent purchasing. The antithesis of ethical and sustainable consumption, this type of fashion sits uncomfortably with millennials and cerates dilemmas within their decision-making.
This research makes sense of this dilemma within an established area of cognitive psychology. The Theory of Cognitive Dissonance (Festinger, 1957) explains behaviours incongruent with attitudes and beliefs. Whilst prominent within consumer literature, it is used less frequently to explain fashion specific dilemmas. The theory postulates that, in the face of incongruent information, an internal tension develops that requires action to dissipate. Hence, consumers will either change their belief system (e.g. the belief that neither the environment or garment workers are exploited or that exploitation is unacceptable), change their action (e.g. stop buying fashion that may originate from exploitative sources) or change the action perception (e.g. accept that they are unaware of how to avoid fashion derived from exploitation). These participants were unprepared to sacrifice their sense of self, appearance and compliance with social fashion norms, despite their concern for ethical and sustainable issues, as captured in the following quotes:
‘I love them because they are cheap, fashionable, easy to buy and popular among my age-group, but I’m aware how damaging they are to the planet’.
‘I hate them, I don’t understand how they still exist because they are killing the planet’
Despite this acknowledgement of the value of ethical and sustainable fashion, it seems that dilemmas may be reconciled to prioritise individual value, rather than social value. To manage this love-hate relationship, participants apportioned blame to government, who control industry practice through legislation, or fast fashion retailers who prioritise profit over unethical and unsustainable practice. Hence, these participants seem to operationalise a devolved set of responsibilities – expecting other stakeholders to operationalise change rather than seeking to change personal behaviours.

The Legacy of Fashion: Past, Present and Future. Global Fashion Conference, 2020

Background scientific research The democratisation of fashion has led to the homogenisation of h... more Background scientific research
The democratisation of fashion has led to the homogenisation of high street styles as fashion retailers compete on speed to market and low pricing (Ritch, 2015). It could be argued that most young people conform to a uniformed appearance, which does not reflect their personality or personal interests. While the limitations of machines replacing cottage industries have been debated since the Industrial Revolution (mid-1800s), when William Morris initiated the Arts and Crafts Movement in response to manufactured aesthetics (Gibson, 2019), globalised industrialisation is now embedded into the world’s economy. Consequently, global trends are infiltrating cultural nuances, with multi-national organisations (MNOs) dominating the global economy. Along with dictating style, underpinned by cost cutting measures that impact on sustainability, there is a loss of the sense of place (Ritzer, 2003) as well as craftmanship and humanity (Gibson, 2019). Ritzer (2003) refers to this imposition of Westernisation or Americanisation on other countries and cultures, as grobalisation - a means to exert power, influence and to grow profits. He argues that grobalisation profiteers from selling ‘nothing’, commodities devoid of any sense of place or humanity; in contrast grocalisation has a sense of origin, it is ‘something’ fashioned in a certain place using specific techniques and materials that provide value and meaning. These contrasting positions can be characterised as the production of commodities for the sake of consumption (and profit) versus the organic creation of commodities through the manipulation of materials through skill and experimentation (Gibson, 2019). As workplaces move towards automation and many occupations inhibit monotonous processes, this research explores how consumers engage with crafting as a means to experiment with creativity and find a sense of community.

This exploratory research examines online fashion retail brand marketing on social media platform... more This exploratory research examines online fashion retail brand marketing on social media platforms. Focusing on online retailer ‘In the Style’, based in Manchester UK, the research considers theoretical underpinnings of social identity theory that capture the zeitgeist – lifestyles constructed and communicated in such a way that creates superficial value rather than promoting artistic aesthetics or authenticity. While online fashion retailing has grown significantly over the last decade (Amed, 2019), supported by advances in digital technology (Iqani, 2019), ‘In the Style’ (ITS) is not as well established as ASOS (As Seen on Screen), PLT (Pretty Little Thing) and Misguided. To raise the profile of the brand, ITS have collaborated with successful Instagram fashion influencers with curated collections to expand their marketing potential, which founder Adam Frisby believes to be unique (Speed, 2019; Griffiths, 2018). While fast-fashion retailers have previously utilised celebrity as a marketing strategy (Keel and Nataraajan, 2012), the approach by ITS situates the influencer as very much involved in the design, fabric selection and photoshoot of the collection (Griffiths, 2018), and therefore are central to brand success. However, this approach is costly; the collaborative photoshoot in Monte Carlo with Lorna Luxe (Instagram influencer with 850k followers (Fearne, 2019)) cost £20m (Breaking Fashion, 2019). Through this lens, value is constructed within the aesthetic economy (Hewer and Hamilton, 2012), characterised by focusing on commerce and capitalism (Benson, 2019). This has been a lucrative business model of situating inexpensive garments within aspirational lifestyles; yet, it could be argued that fashion consumers are purchasing a homogenous ‘lifestyle’ devoid of personalisation (Gibson, 2019). Moreover, this does not aid concern for a sustainable fashion industry Consequently, this research seeks to address notions of influencer power in fashion communication.

Academy of Marketing Science, 2019

Retail brand competition is increasing, global competition coupled with the economic crisis of 20... more Retail brand competition is increasing, global competition coupled with the economic crisis of 2008 has impacted on the UK high street; many well-known retailers went into administration and others are streamlining with store closures and redundancies. The expansion of discount retailers may appeal to price sensitive consumers, but this has incurred allegations of exploiting producers. In the past, research has found that consumers consider that workers in developing countries cannot expect the same salaries and working conditions as western-workers but more recently there have been allegations that UK employees are exploited with low pay and poor working conditions. With discount retailers appearing to grow their market-share in this price sensitive climate, it seems that retailers who have attempted to install stronger brand identity through better quality products, superior customer service and stable employment are suffering from applying integrity to their business practice. However, there also seems to be a backlash against businesses that focus on the 'race to the bottom' and the impact this has on society. This research seeks to explore how consumers perceive the integrity of retail brand identity and how that translates into a buying decision. To do this, focus groups that target Baby Boomers and Generation X will examine consumers interpretation and perceptions of four retail brands will be considered: middle-market retailers John Lewis and M&S that communicate customer service, product quality and enhanced employee conditions will be contrasted against Primark and Sports Direct, which both focus on low pricing.

The paper will situate the ‘essence of sustainability’ amidst the cut and thrust of everyday rela... more The paper will situate the ‘essence of sustainability’ amidst the cut and thrust of everyday relations of domesticity and creative practices of mothering circulating around clothing provisioning for children. It will do so in the context of a study of the ‘greening’ of mothering, specifically exploring the ‘refractive’ quality of the identity work to be found at the heart of related provisioning strategies. In doing so the paper considers the self-sustaining practices of mothering as mothers experience themselves refracted among transient conditions of domesticity emerging from choices constructed as appeals to conscience. We will argue that facets of discourse around sustainability and resilience are inscribed within contemporary brand identities, furnishing routines of the everyday; and that socializing relations that are marked for ethical diligence are not merely situated and complex, but productive and transformative. We show that, as cultural intermediaries, brands act as expert systems distributing valorising social practices and knowledge as measures of ethical safety. To explore these issues the paper reports the findings of a study of a group of young professional women, working mothers, as they negotiate the multiple competing and conflictual spaces around mothering lifestyles, specifically relating practices of clothing provisioning for children as they implicate notions of sustainability. We describe the identity work performed by those practices, revealing the complexity of the contested space of ‘ethics’ within a matrix of nuanced acts of everyday creativity as they relate to fashion space.

Ritch, E L. 2016. Locating social values within mum-to-mum redistribution clothing networks. Soci... more Ritch, E L. 2016. Locating social values within mum-to-mum redistribution clothing networks. Social Innovation in the 21st Century: Beyond Welfare Capitalism? Glasgow Caledonian University. 5th-7th September 2016.

This research examines the social marketplace from the perspective that consumers are proactively evaluating the value of children's clothing to inform their disposal options. These creative post-consumption distribution methods emerge from two perspectives: firstly, children wear clothing for a limited time due to their continued growth and often clothing is still in a wearable condition but no longer fits the child; and secondly, continued consumption needs add to the financial strain of families, particularly for larger families.
This research originated from a larger investigation that explored how fashion is procured within the family setting and is informed by the narratives of 28 professionally working mothers. The participants’ revealed the importance of both formal and informal networks where clothing was passed, used and shared. Within their localities, this included family and friends, the children’s school, charities, Freecycle and organised sales. However, donations of clothing expanded to wider global charity appeals to provide specific clothing and accessories. These networks were symbolic of shared social values and building supportive communities that provided emotional and practical pathways for family provisioning.
The research contributes to theoretical assumptions of social innovation where consumers assume control over marketplace options. Evolving from the shared economy and collective consumption, research streams which are underrepresented in academic discourse, the research provides practical examples of redistribution markets and collaborative lifestyles, transcending notions of frugality or economic hardship, to include concerns for sustainability (Hamari et al., 2015; Heinrichs, 2013). This is important, not only for identifying motivations and drivers for participating in used clothing networks, but highlighting the sustainability agenda through making the most of scarce resources and reducing textiles waste in landfill sites, as well as including concerns for exploitation as alleged within fashion production. The research provides examples of how fashion behaviours have been shaped through concerns for the social and environmental consequences of fashion production and that second-hand clothing provides an element of control to manage the sustainable impact. It also situates family provisioning as a visual representation of the family’s values and identity construction (Collet, 2005). As such, the research provides guidance on how these informal networks offer potential for social enterprise and sustainable business methods that appeal to the ethically concerned consumer and foster affordable clothing within families. Although it is important to note that used clothing networks were primarily orientated around children’s clothing, the anticipated altruistic perceptions of used clothing networks have the potential to transfer into other sectors through creative social innovative partnerships (Sali and Ellingstad, 2016).

The proposed paper interrogates discourse around the ‘sustainable’ child. It takes the interplay ... more The proposed paper interrogates discourse around the ‘sustainable’ child. It takes the interplay of familial consumption as its context and the greening of mothering as its subject, reflecting upon the part played by consumption practices in constructing the ideal of the ‘sustainable child’. It discusses the findings of a study of clothing provisioning for children under conditions of ‘greening’, where everyday consumption practices of mothering are mediated by intersecting concerns for sustainability and gendered notions of security and resilience as identity work.

'Hitting the high street' An exploration of consumer involvement to apply ethical concern to fash... more 'Hitting the high street' An exploration of consumer involvement to apply ethical concern to fashion

Abstract

The inclusion by mainstream food retailers and supermarkets of Fairtrade and organic products has been both noted and appreciated by consumers for ensuring accessability and affordability of ethical produce. However, the ease of consuming products comparable with consumers moral ethical values has not transferred to high street fashion retailers. This paper will present the dilemma experienced by consumers who shop in the main on the high street for fashion items and currently do not have the option to consume ethical fashion. Through phenomenological interviews, professional mothers explore the application of heuristics to lessen the guilt of their inability to align their morals and values with fashion consumption, for themselves and their family. The paper concludes that consumers are increasingly aware of bad ethical practice and this impacts upon their choice of high street retailer. Due to the distinct lack of information available to consumers, heuristics are applied as are assumptions based on previous knowledge. However, over all consumers would prefer assurance of good ethical provenance, and currently the high street is failing to provide this option.

Introduction: The impact upon the environment from the fashion industry is growing due to consume... more Introduction: The impact upon the environment from the fashion industry is growing due to consumer demand for an increased cycle of new fashion, decrease in garment price and the use of developing economies to reduce production costs. Consumers claim to be increasingly concerned about the ethics of production and however, this concern is inconsistent with sales of ethical products.
Aims: The aim of this research is to understand consumers’ engagement with fashion consumption and the ethics which surround the fashion industry, for example environmental concerns and human rights. Previous research has identified strategies which would reduce the effects the fashion industry has upon climate change; however without consumer adoption these proposals are ineffective.
Method: Qualitative data from consumers will be gathered through the use of unstructured interviews. This will have the advantage of allowing the interviewee to develop an unbiased understanding of what ethics with regard to fashion include. The data will be used to develop a contextual framework, which will provide the basis of a discussion with relevant retailers. The discussion will take the form of semi-structured interviews which will allow for both the relevant questions to be asked by the researcher as dictated by the data content and for the retail representative to contribute their opinion. Finally the respondents will be invited to participate in a world café, to explore the research results and the potential to equip consumers with both the information they require and facilitate sustainable behaviour within fashion consumption.
Research Progress: Having reviewed the current literature regarding fashion and ethical consumption, it is anticipated that the data gathering will begin in two months.

Previous research has indicated that consumers are increasingly concerned about the ethical prove... more Previous research has indicated that consumers are increasingly concerned about the ethical provenance of their purchases (Strong 1999).In the food sector, Fairtrade and organic produce have become the choice of an increasingly large market (Davies and Crane 2003). Our research seeks to establish whether consumers of fashion, especially customers of high street retailers as opposed to 'niche' groups, are or can be similarly influenced by ethical considerations. This proposition has not so far been heavily researched, though ethical fashion in general is gaining prominence as an academic topic (Black 2008; Joergens 2006; Shaw et al 2006).

The research, which forms part of a larger study, will examine the decision making process consumers go through when making an apparel purchase, with the intention of isolating whether ethics play any part of this and what scope there may be at mass-market level for retailers to enhance their offers. The initial method used to explore this process will be a World Cafe ( a series of interlocking focus groups) for female consumers, since women have been identified as spending more on clothes (Morgan and Birtwisltle 2009), as well as being more likely to be interested in ethical issues (Dickson 2001). It is intended at a later stage in the overall study to conduct semi-structured interviews with stakeholders, including retailers with an ethical policy, and pressure groups that are active in promoting the ethical fashion agenda. The current paper will outline the methodology in more detail and present the investigative themes.

Handbook on Entrepreneurship and Marketing. , 2020

'We are currently experiencing a time of unprecedented crisis in both the economy and the environ... more 'We are currently experiencing a time of unprecedented crisis in both the economy and the environment: global turmoil in the financial markets, rising unemployment, climate change, food insecurity, water bankruptcy and the end of the era for cheap oil. Yet, the opportunity exists for us to make use of these crises for positive effect; to utilise the period of reflection and questioning that accompanies such times for sustainable advantage. To paraphrase Barack Obama's special advisor, 'it's a shame to waste a good crisis''.

Currently, the fashion industry focuses on the fast fashion production business model, which focu... more Currently, the fashion industry focuses on the fast fashion production business model, which focuses on low pricing and a rapid turnaround of evolving trends. Cheap, easily accessible and underpinned by marketing that encourages frequent consumption to 'look good' dominates the approach taken by high street retailers. This approach has not differed in the last decade, despite allegations of garment worker exploitation in developing countries and concerns that this accelerated production system contributes significantly to climate change and environmental degradation. These allegations often lead to tensions between consumers wanting to look good, but also feel good about their consumption. Utilising social identity theory, the literature and data examine how fashion contributes to self-esteem and confidence, noting that similar feelings are experienced from sustainable production. This chapter explores how fashion producers and retailers could capitalise on creating new tenants of value through socially responsive production and supporting socially responsive consumption though educating and better use of labelling.

This chapter considers the potential of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) to address concerns... more This chapter considers the potential of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) to address concerns that garment-worker exploitation was involved in fashion production. It looks back to the success of philanthropy from the Victorian era in alleviating poverty and empowering employees. The chapter also considers evidence from the Hawthorne Studies to support implementing CSR for the benefit of employees and business, backed up with more recent examples from Sri Lanka. This is followed by exploring two fashion organisations for which CSR activities are central to their operations and finally, the chapter draws to a close by presenting excerpts from consumer interviews as they evaluate fashion garment labels that address the workers involved in producing fashion.