Katie Beverley | University of Huddersfield (original) (raw)

Papers by Katie Beverley

The work presented in this thesis describes the evaporation rates of a wide variety of samples ob... more The work presented in this thesis describes the evaporation rates of a wide variety of samples obtained under a controlled gas flow using a gravimetric technique. Evaporation rates for pure liquids with vapour pressures ranging from 0.1 to 500 Torr, water contained in silica particles, alkane/squalane mixtures, hexane gelled with silica particles, surfactant/water mixtures, immiscible layered liquid mixtures and emulsions have been determined. For pure liquids and simple unstructured liquid mixtures, the evaporation rate is limited by diffusion through a stagnant vapour layer at the liquid surface. As the degree of structure within the liquid mixture increases, the time taken for concentration gradients developing in the evaporation process to relax becomes longer relative to the time taken for diffusion through the stagnant vapour layer. For highly structured liquid mixtures, the rate limiting process switches to diffusion and convection within the liquid mixture. In the case of cr...

Purpose: This paper addresses the growing problem of textile waste in the rapidly developing citi... more Purpose: This paper addresses the growing problem of textile waste in the rapidly developing cities of subSaharan Africa and examines, from a supply chain perspective, the potential for waste textile materials to be transformed into the raw materials for new consumer products. Research Approach: The paper reflects on the outcomes of a field trip to Dar es Salaam in which stakeholders in a hypothesised textile waste supply chain were interviewed and waste textile materials were analysed in order to determine their content and appropriateness for reuse. Findings from the field study have been compared with current literature on logistics and market creation, waste generation, management and recycling in sub-Saharan Africa. Findings and Originality: The findings show that a rudimentary system has been in place for many years to collect and recycle textiles in Dar es Salaam. However, at the same time as textile waste is projected to increase in the city, collection rates are falling. Th...

Creative methodologies are often used to facilitate interdisciplinary solutions for ‘wicked probl... more Creative methodologies are often used to facilitate interdisciplinary solutions for ‘wicked problems’. But can these divergent thinking tools aid interdisciplinary learning in the arts and humanities and with what benefits? This group workshop invites delegates to creative collaborative solutions by testing different art and design approaches to problem-solving. This workshop intends to generate new knowledge and understanding of creative methodologies in the context of interdisciplinary problem solving. Delegates will be introduced to what constitutes a ‘wicked problem’ and how one might tackle it within a teaching and learning context. It will contextualise different approaches to the use of creative methodologies in postgraduate education, through art and design methodologies and more widely through interdisciplinary networks of social entrepreneurship. The workshop activities will equip delegates with the skills of practicing soft systems methodologies (rich pictures), Edward de Bono’s six thinking hats approach, inference based actions and design thinking models (empathy building and divergent thinking). These skills will be applied to different problems with the purpose of delegates experiencing first-hand interdisciplinary learning across the disciplines. This event promotes the idea that the condition of the interdisciplinary imagination has the potential to create new learning experiences. The interdisciplinary group can facilitate differing perspectives, deploy and invent new methodologies, actively engage in dialogical processes to produce different dynamics from that of the established disciplines. In this context, the interdisciplinary imagination is also a cross-, trans-. multi-, and intra-creative process to be experienced within the group. ‘Wicked problems’, broadly defined, are social or cultural issues that are almost impossible to solve, due to their complexity. Humanitarian issues are familiar wicked problems: poverty, education, health, sustainability and equality are all indeterminate in scope and scale and thus never resolvable with one clear-cut solution. In the 1970s, Horst Rittel and Melvin M. Webber identified ten characteristics that make problems ‘wicked’ (Rittel and Webber, 1973). These features soon became the benchmark for identifying new and innovative ways to address to the complex barriers of large-scale issues. Bell and Morse (1999), Brown, Harris and Russell (2012), Crouch and Pearce (2012) present current theories and debates within which wicked problems sit, including the positive effects design thinking can bring to these dilemmas. Calls to actively tackle wicked problems have become a popular feature of macro research trends in design and social entrepreneurship (see Austin Center for Design, Studio H and RSA – Ideas and Actions for a 21st Century enlightenment). The magnitude of complex global issues highlights a growing demand for interdisciplinary teams to come together to effect social change through collaboration. At the core of this growing cultural and social phenomenon is an understanding of the value and benefits of working collectively and creatively, divergently and discursively. Such approaches provide opportunities to tap into interdisciplinary learning experiences, and can be used to actively problem-solve specific issues (see De Bono, 1985; Checkland and Poulter, 2006). http://www.heacademy.ac.uk/events/detail/2014/Seminars/AH/GEN939_University_of_Huddersfield

In the UK, end-of-life management of used apparel is of increasing concern. The emergence of ‘fas... more In the UK, end-of-life management of used apparel is of increasing concern. The emergence of ‘fast fashion’ retail models, characterised by low prices and frequent changes in style, has encouraged greater levels of consumption and more rapid disposal of fashion apparel (Bianchi and Birtwistle,2011). It is estimated that annually, over fifty items of clothing are purchased per capita (Carbon Trust, 2011) and approximately two million tonnes disposed of nationally, 50% direct to landfill(DEFRA, 2011). The post-consumer apparel which is diverted from landfill is sorted by textile recyclers and sent on to a range of existing markets. Most is destined for reuse in its original form; a small proportion is resold in the UK, but the majority is exported to sub-Saharan Africa and Eastern Europe (Tanzania is a major export destination). Apparel that is not suitable for resale may be reused as rags and wipers or remanufactured into secondary products, but there are significant challenges to both these markets, particularly in the UK. Technological change in the printing industry and the decline in heavy engineering have led to decreased demand for rags and wipers. Meanwhile, the heterogeneous material composition of post-consumer apparel waste means that remanufactured products are generally of low quality and value. A feasibility study undertaken in 2006 identified potential technologies and end markets which would add value to post-consumer recycled materials, but there has been little commercial interest in the outcomes (Morley et al, 2006; Morley et al, 2009). There is currently a thriving second-hand clothing trade in Tanzania but this is under increasing pressure from cheap Asian imports which have increased since the phasing out of quota restrictions following the expiration of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement in 2005. In addition, solid waste management in Tanzania is highly inefficient and it is likely that at end-of-life the second-hand clothing exported from the UK will be landfilled along with Asian imports (Sinha and Mahwera, 2011). Poor waste management infrastructure has given rise to an informal labouring sector of scavengers or ‘waste pickers’ who recover and sell valuable waste materials (Scheinberg, 2001; cited in Uiterkamp et al, 2011). However, a recent small-scale study found that end markets for textile waste are small and of low value in comparison to other waste streams. This is particularly true when the textiles are badly damaged or shredded (Palfreman, 2010). The European Union’s 2005 Waste Framework Directive places emphasis on diverting material from landfill. In the absence of strong domestic or overseas reuse and recycling markets for post- consumer apparel, waste-to-energy processes such as incineration or mechanical biological treatment may become the predominant waste management strategy for this waste-stream in the UK, as has become the case in Northern Europe (EEA, 2007). Whilst preferable to landfill, this represents a less satisfactory waste management strategy than reuse or recycling and does not address the solid waste management issues evident in Tanzania. The lack of value placed on textile fragments in Tanzania is in contrast to the situation in India, where a strong mungo and shoddy industry converts post-consumer apparel imported from the UK into yarn and blankets for the domestic and export markets. Low labour costs mean that the time-intensive sorting and processing stages in manufacturing remain economically feasible (Norris,2005). This indicates that low-labour cost countries can gain benefit from post-consumer apparel waste if the appropriate skills and infrastructure are in place. This paper explores three supply chain scenarios aimed at tackling the problem of UK post-consumer apparel waste from a global perspective. In the first scenario, a global supply chain is described in which Tanzanian-base low-technology reuse and recycling industries create value from post-consumer apparel waste. An existing case study on Tanzanian tailors (Sinha and Mahwera, 2010) will be used to provide a basis for assessing the feasibility of reuse and remanufacture of post-consumer apparel. As not all post-consumer apparel is fit for this end use, we will also explore the possibility of developing a low-technology textile recycling industry making goods for domestic and overseas agricultural and horticultural markets. Both industries are important to the Tanzanian economy, and a previous feasibility study has identified that post-consumer apparel waste can be used in producing nonwoven capillary matting and growing media (Morley et al, 2006). The second scenario explores the diversion of post-consumer apparel waste into a UK-based company. The design and manufacturing processes of a leading UK automotive textiles manufacturer will be analysed in order to determine whether this is a viable market for post- consumer apparel. This scenario addresses the predicted reduction in second-hand…

Sustainable innovation in the outdoor industry has largely focused on materials and processing. T... more Sustainable innovation in the outdoor industry has largely focused on materials and processing. This paper argues that the consumer profile and innovation-led nature of the industry provides an opportunity for new business models and approaches to support sustainability. The conclusion is that the outdoor industry has the potential to pioneer sustainable thinking in a business context.

This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in... more This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in the fashion industry. We review relevant research and perspectives and propose a co-design platform and an ideation toolkit in which users are encouraged to explore sustainability as a way of thinking at the early stages of the fashion design development process. We explain the rationale behind the ideation toolkit, its structure and demonstrate how to apply the toolkit to fashion design through a case study. Finally, we discuss both opportunities and challenges of co-designing the fashion system and its implementation in sustainable fashion and textile design education.

Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 2015

Phys. Chem. Chem. Phys., 1999

Analytica Chimica Acta, 2004

The new theory of democratic phase coherent data-scatter (DPCD-S) is introduced. Basics of UV-vis... more The new theory of democratic phase coherent data-scatter (DPCD-S) is introduced. Basics of UV-visible spectrometry theory and error propagation have been presented. The qualitative spectral analysis provided is point-by-point over the complete data set and not just limited to Lambda-maxima. Equal weightings of the ‘voting’ data scattering algorithm are employed in the analysis of both the calibration and food colour

Langmuir, 2002

Evaporation rates of water and oil from creamed oil-in-water emulsions have been measured under c... more Evaporation rates of water and oil from creamed oil-in-water emulsions have been measured under conditions of controlled gas flow. The continuous water phases of the emulsions evaporate at rates equal to that for pure water under the same conditions. The evaporation rates of ...

Coloration Technology, 2009

The work presented in this thesis describes the evaporation rates of a wide variety of samples ob... more The work presented in this thesis describes the evaporation rates of a wide variety of samples obtained under a controlled gas flow using a gravimetric technique. Evaporation rates for pure liquids with vapour pressures ranging from 0.1 to 500 Torr, water contained in silica particles, alkane/squalane mixtures, hexane gelled with silica particles, surfactant/water mixtures, immiscible layered liquid mixtures and emulsions have been determined. For pure liquids and simple unstructured liquid mixtures, the evaporation rate is limited by diffusion through a stagnant vapour layer at the liquid surface. As the degree of structure within the liquid mixture increases, the time taken for concentration gradients developing in the evaporation process to relax becomes longer relative to the time taken for diffusion through the stagnant vapour layer. For highly structured liquid mixtures, the rate limiting process switches to diffusion and convection within the liquid mixture. In the case of cr...

Purpose: This paper addresses the growing problem of textile waste in the rapidly developing citi... more Purpose: This paper addresses the growing problem of textile waste in the rapidly developing cities of subSaharan Africa and examines, from a supply chain perspective, the potential for waste textile materials to be transformed into the raw materials for new consumer products. Research Approach: The paper reflects on the outcomes of a field trip to Dar es Salaam in which stakeholders in a hypothesised textile waste supply chain were interviewed and waste textile materials were analysed in order to determine their content and appropriateness for reuse. Findings from the field study have been compared with current literature on logistics and market creation, waste generation, management and recycling in sub-Saharan Africa. Findings and Originality: The findings show that a rudimentary system has been in place for many years to collect and recycle textiles in Dar es Salaam. However, at the same time as textile waste is projected to increase in the city, collection rates are falling. Th...

Creative methodologies are often used to facilitate interdisciplinary solutions for ‘wicked probl... more Creative methodologies are often used to facilitate interdisciplinary solutions for ‘wicked problems’. But can these divergent thinking tools aid interdisciplinary learning in the arts and humanities and with what benefits? This group workshop invites delegates to creative collaborative solutions by testing different art and design approaches to problem-solving. This workshop intends to generate new knowledge and understanding of creative methodologies in the context of interdisciplinary problem solving. Delegates will be introduced to what constitutes a ‘wicked problem’ and how one might tackle it within a teaching and learning context. It will contextualise different approaches to the use of creative methodologies in postgraduate education, through art and design methodologies and more widely through interdisciplinary networks of social entrepreneurship. The workshop activities will equip delegates with the skills of practicing soft systems methodologies (rich pictures), Edward de Bono’s six thinking hats approach, inference based actions and design thinking models (empathy building and divergent thinking). These skills will be applied to different problems with the purpose of delegates experiencing first-hand interdisciplinary learning across the disciplines. This event promotes the idea that the condition of the interdisciplinary imagination has the potential to create new learning experiences. The interdisciplinary group can facilitate differing perspectives, deploy and invent new methodologies, actively engage in dialogical processes to produce different dynamics from that of the established disciplines. In this context, the interdisciplinary imagination is also a cross-, trans-. multi-, and intra-creative process to be experienced within the group. ‘Wicked problems’, broadly defined, are social or cultural issues that are almost impossible to solve, due to their complexity. Humanitarian issues are familiar wicked problems: poverty, education, health, sustainability and equality are all indeterminate in scope and scale and thus never resolvable with one clear-cut solution. In the 1970s, Horst Rittel and Melvin M. Webber identified ten characteristics that make problems ‘wicked’ (Rittel and Webber, 1973). These features soon became the benchmark for identifying new and innovative ways to address to the complex barriers of large-scale issues. Bell and Morse (1999), Brown, Harris and Russell (2012), Crouch and Pearce (2012) present current theories and debates within which wicked problems sit, including the positive effects design thinking can bring to these dilemmas. Calls to actively tackle wicked problems have become a popular feature of macro research trends in design and social entrepreneurship (see Austin Center for Design, Studio H and RSA – Ideas and Actions for a 21st Century enlightenment). The magnitude of complex global issues highlights a growing demand for interdisciplinary teams to come together to effect social change through collaboration. At the core of this growing cultural and social phenomenon is an understanding of the value and benefits of working collectively and creatively, divergently and discursively. Such approaches provide opportunities to tap into interdisciplinary learning experiences, and can be used to actively problem-solve specific issues (see De Bono, 1985; Checkland and Poulter, 2006). http://www.heacademy.ac.uk/events/detail/2014/Seminars/AH/GEN939_University_of_Huddersfield

In the UK, end-of-life management of used apparel is of increasing concern. The emergence of ‘fas... more In the UK, end-of-life management of used apparel is of increasing concern. The emergence of ‘fast fashion’ retail models, characterised by low prices and frequent changes in style, has encouraged greater levels of consumption and more rapid disposal of fashion apparel (Bianchi and Birtwistle,2011). It is estimated that annually, over fifty items of clothing are purchased per capita (Carbon Trust, 2011) and approximately two million tonnes disposed of nationally, 50% direct to landfill(DEFRA, 2011). The post-consumer apparel which is diverted from landfill is sorted by textile recyclers and sent on to a range of existing markets. Most is destined for reuse in its original form; a small proportion is resold in the UK, but the majority is exported to sub-Saharan Africa and Eastern Europe (Tanzania is a major export destination). Apparel that is not suitable for resale may be reused as rags and wipers or remanufactured into secondary products, but there are significant challenges to both these markets, particularly in the UK. Technological change in the printing industry and the decline in heavy engineering have led to decreased demand for rags and wipers. Meanwhile, the heterogeneous material composition of post-consumer apparel waste means that remanufactured products are generally of low quality and value. A feasibility study undertaken in 2006 identified potential technologies and end markets which would add value to post-consumer recycled materials, but there has been little commercial interest in the outcomes (Morley et al, 2006; Morley et al, 2009). There is currently a thriving second-hand clothing trade in Tanzania but this is under increasing pressure from cheap Asian imports which have increased since the phasing out of quota restrictions following the expiration of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement in 2005. In addition, solid waste management in Tanzania is highly inefficient and it is likely that at end-of-life the second-hand clothing exported from the UK will be landfilled along with Asian imports (Sinha and Mahwera, 2011). Poor waste management infrastructure has given rise to an informal labouring sector of scavengers or ‘waste pickers’ who recover and sell valuable waste materials (Scheinberg, 2001; cited in Uiterkamp et al, 2011). However, a recent small-scale study found that end markets for textile waste are small and of low value in comparison to other waste streams. This is particularly true when the textiles are badly damaged or shredded (Palfreman, 2010). The European Union’s 2005 Waste Framework Directive places emphasis on diverting material from landfill. In the absence of strong domestic or overseas reuse and recycling markets for post- consumer apparel, waste-to-energy processes such as incineration or mechanical biological treatment may become the predominant waste management strategy for this waste-stream in the UK, as has become the case in Northern Europe (EEA, 2007). Whilst preferable to landfill, this represents a less satisfactory waste management strategy than reuse or recycling and does not address the solid waste management issues evident in Tanzania. The lack of value placed on textile fragments in Tanzania is in contrast to the situation in India, where a strong mungo and shoddy industry converts post-consumer apparel imported from the UK into yarn and blankets for the domestic and export markets. Low labour costs mean that the time-intensive sorting and processing stages in manufacturing remain economically feasible (Norris,2005). This indicates that low-labour cost countries can gain benefit from post-consumer apparel waste if the appropriate skills and infrastructure are in place. This paper explores three supply chain scenarios aimed at tackling the problem of UK post-consumer apparel waste from a global perspective. In the first scenario, a global supply chain is described in which Tanzanian-base low-technology reuse and recycling industries create value from post-consumer apparel waste. An existing case study on Tanzanian tailors (Sinha and Mahwera, 2010) will be used to provide a basis for assessing the feasibility of reuse and remanufacture of post-consumer apparel. As not all post-consumer apparel is fit for this end use, we will also explore the possibility of developing a low-technology textile recycling industry making goods for domestic and overseas agricultural and horticultural markets. Both industries are important to the Tanzanian economy, and a previous feasibility study has identified that post-consumer apparel waste can be used in producing nonwoven capillary matting and growing media (Morley et al, 2006). The second scenario explores the diversion of post-consumer apparel waste into a UK-based company. The design and manufacturing processes of a leading UK automotive textiles manufacturer will be analysed in order to determine whether this is a viable market for post- consumer apparel. This scenario addresses the predicted reduction in second-hand…

Sustainable innovation in the outdoor industry has largely focused on materials and processing. T... more Sustainable innovation in the outdoor industry has largely focused on materials and processing. This paper argues that the consumer profile and innovation-led nature of the industry provides an opportunity for new business models and approaches to support sustainability. The conclusion is that the outdoor industry has the potential to pioneer sustainable thinking in a business context.

This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in... more This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in the fashion industry. We review relevant research and perspectives and propose a co-design platform and an ideation toolkit in which users are encouraged to explore sustainability as a way of thinking at the early stages of the fashion design development process. We explain the rationale behind the ideation toolkit, its structure and demonstrate how to apply the toolkit to fashion design through a case study. Finally, we discuss both opportunities and challenges of co-designing the fashion system and its implementation in sustainable fashion and textile design education.

Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 2015

Phys. Chem. Chem. Phys., 1999

Analytica Chimica Acta, 2004

The new theory of democratic phase coherent data-scatter (DPCD-S) is introduced. Basics of UV-vis... more The new theory of democratic phase coherent data-scatter (DPCD-S) is introduced. Basics of UV-visible spectrometry theory and error propagation have been presented. The qualitative spectral analysis provided is point-by-point over the complete data set and not just limited to Lambda-maxima. Equal weightings of the ‘voting’ data scattering algorithm are employed in the analysis of both the calibration and food colour

Langmuir, 2002

Evaporation rates of water and oil from creamed oil-in-water emulsions have been measured under c... more Evaporation rates of water and oil from creamed oil-in-water emulsions have been measured under conditions of controlled gas flow. The continuous water phases of the emulsions evaporate at rates equal to that for pure water under the same conditions. The evaporation rates of ...

Coloration Technology, 2009