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Conference Presentations by Anamélia Fontana Valentim

Research paper thumbnail of THE CONSUMPTION OF THE COPY, THE CONDEMNATION AND THE DEMOCRATIZATION OF FASHION

PURPOSE OF THE PROJECT : This study has as a starting point the analysis of the constant transfor... more PURPOSE OF THE PROJECT : This study has as a starting point the analysis of the constant transformation that globalization of the markets of cultural product inflict on fashion creation. Copy in fashion, which is the main object of this research in a broader approach, evidences the inversion of values, as it has never been seen as shameful. Currently, its condemnation has increasingly been repeated by the media. But imitation is, for some cultures such as Chinese, a legitimate practice that makes possible the emergence of new artists. Copy represents a path to creative autonomy. But, what caused this inversion of values? Why did it start to become a reprehensible practice? Why the criticism in relation to the practice of copy exists, if in times of rapid information movement, it is increasingly difficult to define the origin of things and determine who created a product; / How the frequency of use of some material goods determines its value of use; / How the consumption of copied fashion items promotes the movements of established meanings or producing new appropriations; METHODOLOGY: With the main goal of understand rather than explaining the research, analysis and conclusions are guided by the methodology for the comprehensive sociology proposed by Michel Maffesoli (2007). For the author, the relationships that compose sociality are the substrate of life in society, hence, the multiplicity of experiences will establish a polytheism of values. Consequently, leading us to daily practices that escape the rigid social control. The qualitative research reflects on the sphere of meanings, motives, values and attitudes. Thus, not aiming to find figures or quantitative indicators but information about human production, enriching the discussion on aesthetics reproducibility in fashion. THEORETICAL AND SOCIAL RELEVANCE: Reflect on the aesthetic reproducibility and the social and historical aspects that underlie its consumption. Strongly condemned over the years, consumption was observed by limited theories that did not consider their academic importance due to being attached to subjective aspects. It is increasingly difficult to identify the origin of a fashion design. It comes from the streets, the brands of prestige or within groups. The ideal standards, previously related only to aesthetic standards of the elite, have been replaced by identification with common people who have something to offer. RESULTS AND IMPLICATIONS: The increase of consumption among financially disadvantaged classes in the late nineteenth century led the democratization of fashion, caused not by the social diffusion of goods, but by the copy. Goods from that period to the present day classified consumers as, for or against. Thus, evidencing the symbolic dimension of the object and enabling its use as a social factor which allows inclusion or exclusion from social relations. When supply chain systems increased, elites were enabled to acquire assets that were once rare, consequently becoming depreciated due to its abundance. However, this reason is not sufficient to explain the condemnation copy, since fashion, constantly replaces mass-produced objects with another. With increased trade, technological advances and the possibility of large scale production, the middle class starts to consume copies of luxury objects consequently threatening the reputation of some goods. This appropriation becomes a problem and the imperative of authenticity arises. The copy has its value overturned and falsification emerges with modernity itself. The frequency of use of some goods begins to determine its value in a correlation between consumption and hierarchy. This relates to the copy as it increases the frequency of use of certain object or style, thus devaluing the subjective and aesthetic sense of the good. The value of an object, consequently, is no longer in its utility but in its style and innovation, its social meaning. To draw an analogy between the democratization of culture that is reached by the media, it brings the popular closer to the erudite, allowing the understanding of signs once restricted to a group and now to be shared by a majority. This being possibly one of the biggest impacts that the technical reproducibility created, a breach of the standard of the elite and their exclusives. Among the possible outcomes of this research is a highlight on the investigation on how the practice of copying encourages the creation since far from the judgment of the elite, in the consumption of copy of fashion products by the popular classes is not included just the ignorance about the product , label and abilities but also a freedom to own copied product in its form, as considered appropriated, whether by criteria of beauty, pleasure or financial limits. Research on the subject should not be simplified or underestimated considering the argument of consumption of copies by a subject who is manipulated by the life style promoted by capitalism. It is important to note that even with the use of styles coming from the elites, as a means of social inclusion and upward mobility, this acceptance of fashion standards do not necessarily correspond to the adoption of the values of these upper classes. And as the consumed good are the visible part of the culture it exposes the unique dynamic between the identifications.

Papers by Anamélia Fontana Valentim

Research paper thumbnail of Tree Fashion and Rhizome Fashion: Perspectives to Think About Fashion

Springer International Publishing eBooks, Oct 20, 2022

Research paper thumbnail of The Position of Brazilian Fashion in a Borderless Place

Trending Now: New Developments in Fashion Studies, 2013

Research paper thumbnail of Crítica: Um instrumento de mudança na moda

Projetica

O presente estudo tem como objetivo pesquisar sobre a crítica de moda, como a falta ou a superfic... more O presente estudo tem como objetivo pesquisar sobre a crítica de moda, como a falta ou a superficialidade dela reflete na construção das imagens e como a crítica é capaz de criar um espectador apto a questionar, provocando mudanças na estrutura da moda. Para construir esse estudo, utilizamos a pesquisa qualitativa, buscando por meio dos autores Lars Svendsen, Marie-José Mondzain, Walter Benjamin, Theodor W. Adorno e Max Horkheimer debater um caminho para a crítica de moda.

Research paper thumbnail of Da efemeridade à re-existência

This study proposes to think of fashion by going beyond the notion of ephemerality, seeking meani... more This study proposes to think of fashion by going beyond the notion of ephemerality, seeking meaning in survival as a form of re-existence. In order to problematize the system that builds fashion, it was necessary to destabilize concepts inherent in it, such as origin, newness, linearity, temporality, as well as its historical construction. The research sought to detect lines of flight present within the system itself and brought them closer to the concept of rhizome. Thinking of fashion as an image and later as a rhizome broadened our perspective at the political possibilities that happen in the assemblages that fashion promotes. With this exercise we challenge the unsustainability of fashion as a promoter of change, especially when based on its material aspect. The re-existence in this study allows for a possibility to look at fashion that understands that the empty changes provoked by ephemerality in fashion remain by excess, and the necessary changes are those that survive the te...

Research paper thumbnail of Reflexões sobre a cópia: reprodutibilidade estética nas criações de moda, um recorte do sul de Santa Catarina

Through the analyses of practices used in fashion creation the present study investigated the rol... more Through the analyses of practices used in fashion creation the present study investigated the role of copy as part of the process of product development. In addition to exploring the literature on the technical reproducibility and aesthetic analysis of the subject, the study was anchored by semi-open interviews with designers from the south region of Santa Catarina allowing, among other conclusions, the realization of the strong use of this trend as an indicator for the creative process. Through this research, discussion regarding the condemnation of copy, which is present in various social spheres and even in the fashion industry, was made possible. Due to its broad linkage with poetry and aesthetics, fashion creation can be characterized as language and representation, consequently managing social signs. Widening the scope of the subject, the transgressive power that can emerge in the practice of copy of fashion products was also investigated.

Research paper thumbnail of Lavanderia em jeans e a sustentabilidade em moda: comparativo entre processos tradicionais e ecológicos

Esta pesquisa, por meio da abordagem de investigação estudo de caso, tem como objeto a calça jean... more Esta pesquisa, por meio da abordagem de investigação estudo de caso, tem como objeto a calça jeans. Seu objetivo principal é comparar dois processos de lavanderia em jeans aplicados a este mesmo produto, estimando os custos e recursos utilizados em cada método, que foram nomeados como tradicional e eco. Para tanto, abordamos brevemente a história do jeans, o ciclo de vida dos produtos e a sustentabilidade na moda, apresentando escolhas aplicáveis ao jeans e que contribuem para a preservação do meio ambiente.

Research paper thumbnail of OS SIGNIFICADOS CULTURAIS NO CONSUMO DA CÓPIA NA MODA

Resumo O consumo é algo em movimento constante, estrutura valores e conecta o individual e o cole... more Resumo O consumo é algo em movimento constante, estrutura valores e conecta o individual e o coletivo, o aumento do consumo entre as classes menos favorecidas financeiramente desde final do século XIX implicou uma democratização da moda, que se deu não pela difusão social dos bens, mas por sua cópia. Consumo; Cópia; Moda; Abstract Consumption trends are in constant motion, structuring values and connecting the individual and the collective. The increase consumption of goods among low-income people since the late nineteenth century has led to a democratization of fashion, which has been diffused not due to the social distribution of goods, but due to its copy. Consumption; Copy; Fashion; O breve entendimento de moda que propomos aqui não visa encontrar conceitos para moda, mas destacar o que ela representa estando ligada ao indivíduo e sua relação com a sociedade. A moda de forma paradoxal se mostra na evanescência daquilo que só existe para dar lugar a um outra forma de exibição.

Research paper thumbnail of A moda e sua construção na história: em busca de perspectivas menos totalizantes 1 Fashion and its construction in history: in search of less totalizing perspectives

Resumo: Este estudo compreende a moda como parte de um sistema que se amplia a todo momento, desd... more Resumo: Este estudo compreende a moda como parte de um sistema que se amplia a todo momento, desde sua materialidade mesma até o ponto em que ultrapassa os limites do corpo. A crítica aqui elaborada opõe-se a noções enraizadas que produzem uma visão da moda fundada em forma, linearidade, eurocentrismo, consumo e hierarquia. Esta nova abordagem pensa a moda como imagem naquilo que constrói significados e memória, fazendo, assim, parte da História. A proposta, portanto, é problematizar a construção histórica linear da moda, ampliando seu campo de percepção, seus sentidos e potências em uma perspectiva que busca um olhar menos totalizante para a moda e sua relação com a história. Abstract: Fashion is here understood as part of a system that is in a constant process of expansion, from its materiality to the point where it exceeds the limits of the body. We refute rooted notions of the history of fashion based on form, linearity, eurocentrism, consumption and hierarchy. Our approach defines fashion as image, which produces meaning and memory, and, as a consequence, becomes profoundly historical. The main object is, thus, to problematize the chronological historical construction of fashion in order to expand how the fashion field is perceived in terms of senses and potencies and in search of a less totalizing view of fashion in History.

Research paper thumbnail of ROUPAS QUE NÃO VESTEM VIDAS: O AUDIOVISUAL E O FAST FASHION CLOTHING NOT WEAR LIVES: AUDIOVISUAL AND FAST FASHION

Resumo Este estudo problematiza as formas de dar visibilidade aos problemas causados pelo consumo... more Resumo Este estudo problematiza as formas de dar visibilidade aos problemas causados pelo consumo do fast fashion, especialmente no que tange aos trabalhadores envolvidos na fabricação e descarte das peças de roupa. As produções audiovisuais " Sweatshop: Deadly Fashion " e " Unravel " são utilizadas como objeto deste estudo. Abstract This study discusses ways to give visibility to the problems caused by the fast fashion consumption, especially with respect to workers engaged in the manufacturing and discard of clothing. Audiovisual productions "Sweatshop: Deadly Fashion" and "Unravel" are used as the object of this study.

Research paper thumbnail of CIDADANIA E EXPERIÊNCIA DE CONSUMO: UMA APROXIMAÇÃO COM O CONCEITO DE PARTILHA DO SENSÍVEL

Resumo O presente estudo parte da observação de um projeto de doação de roupas com característica... more Resumo O presente estudo parte da observação de um projeto de doação de roupas com características diferentes das usuais, quando a pessoa recebe a roupa sem a possibilidade de escolha, a diferença que encontro nesta doação é a experiência de compra, de escolha do que vestir, ou seja a experiência do consumo. A escolha do que vestir proporcionada pelo projeto " Street Store " permite o exercício da cidadania conforme entendimento inicial desta pesquisa. O desenvolvimento do projeto Street Store é para este estudo um ato político e se aproxima do conceito de partilha do sensível por sustentar relações que superam os fatores materiais de necessidade. Para dar embasamento a essa percepção e aprofundar a análise busco auxílio nas obras de autores como Mari Douglas e Baron Isherwood (2004), Néstor Garcia Canclini (2003, 2010) e Jacques Ranciere (1996, 2005). Este ensaio se ancora nos conceitos de consumo, cidadania e partilha do sensível. Palavras-Chave: Consumo. Cidadania. Partilha do sensível. Abstract This study starts the observation of a clothing donation project with different characteristics from the usual, when a person receives clothes without the possibility of choosing, the difference I find this donation is the shopping experience, the choice of what to wear, or is the experience of the consumer. The choice of what to wear provided by the project "The Street Store" allows citizenship according to initial understanding of this research. The development of the Street Store project for this study is a political act and approaches the concept of sharing sensitive for sustaining relations that exceed material needs. To provide basement to this perception and deepen the analysis I seek support in the writings of authors such as Mary

Research paper thumbnail of A REDE SOCIAL COMO ESPAÇO PARA PRODUÇÃO DE IMAGENS DE MODA EM UM PROJETO DE EXTENSAO TECNOLÓGICA SOCIAL NETWORKING AS SPACE FOR THE PRODUCTION OF FASHION IMAGES IN A PROJECT OF TECHNOLOGICAL EXTENSION

Resumo Este trabalho se fundamenta no entendimento de que a moda e a tecnologia imprimiram mudanç... more Resumo Este trabalho se fundamenta no entendimento de que a moda e a tecnologia imprimiram mudanças na divulgação das imagens de moda, diminuído sua atuação em revistas e fazendo parte deste período atual habitado pelas redes sociais. Este pressuposto serviu de base para a criação de um projeto extensão tecnológica finalizado em 2015 e que apresentaremos brevemente neste estudo. Este recorte descreve e analisa a constituição de procedimentos e competências no desenvolvimento e consultoria de produção de moda e fotográfica para lojistas de um shopping de varejo que atuou como parceiro no projeto. Abstract This paper is founded on the argument that fashion and technology have imprinted changes in the dissemination of fashion images, reducing its activities in magazines and being part of a time inhabited by social networks. This assumption was the basis for the creation of a technological extension project completed in 2015 and which will be presented briefly in this study. This paper describes and analyzes the establishment of procedures and capacities used in the development and fashion and photography consultancy for a retail shopping center that served as a partner in the project.

Research paper thumbnail of " A costura do invisível " e o " Ato de criação " : moda, arte e política

Resumo O estudo a seguir parte da análise do processo criativo documentado por Jum Nakao na coleç... more Resumo O estudo a seguir parte da análise do processo criativo documentado por Jum Nakao na coleção criada pelo estilista, " A costura do invisível ". Expondo o processo constantemente caótico da indústria da moda, o documentário, é carregado de questionamentos, que culminam com um desfile. Para tanto, esse desfile é percebido aqui como forma artística que reflete e estrutura movimentos sociais. O objetivo principal está na busca de atravessamentos entre a obra de Jum Nakao e o ato de criação de Gilles Deleuze e assim refletir a relação entre política, arte e moda. Palavras Chave: Criação. Moda. Política. Abstract The following study starts from the analysis of the creative process documented by Jum Nakao in the collection created by fashion designer, "The invisible sewing". Constantly exposing the chaotic process of the fashion industry, the documentary is loaded with questions, culminating with a fashion show. For both, this show is perceived here as an art form that structure and reflects social movements. The main objective is in finding crossings between the work of Jum Nakao and " The creation act " by Gilles Deleuze and so reflect the relationship between policy, art and fashion.

Books by Anamélia Fontana Valentim

Research paper thumbnail of The position of Brazilian Fashion in a borderless place.pdf

Research paper thumbnail of THE CONSUMPTION OF THE COPY, THE CONDEMNATION AND THE DEMOCRATIZATION OF FASHION

PURPOSE OF THE PROJECT : This study has as a starting point the analysis of the constant transfor... more PURPOSE OF THE PROJECT : This study has as a starting point the analysis of the constant transformation that globalization of the markets of cultural product inflict on fashion creation. Copy in fashion, which is the main object of this research in a broader approach, evidences the inversion of values, as it has never been seen as shameful. Currently, its condemnation has increasingly been repeated by the media. But imitation is, for some cultures such as Chinese, a legitimate practice that makes possible the emergence of new artists. Copy represents a path to creative autonomy. But, what caused this inversion of values? Why did it start to become a reprehensible practice? Why the criticism in relation to the practice of copy exists, if in times of rapid information movement, it is increasingly difficult to define the origin of things and determine who created a product; / How the frequency of use of some material goods determines its value of use; / How the consumption of copied fashion items promotes the movements of established meanings or producing new appropriations; METHODOLOGY: With the main goal of understand rather than explaining the research, analysis and conclusions are guided by the methodology for the comprehensive sociology proposed by Michel Maffesoli (2007). For the author, the relationships that compose sociality are the substrate of life in society, hence, the multiplicity of experiences will establish a polytheism of values. Consequently, leading us to daily practices that escape the rigid social control. The qualitative research reflects on the sphere of meanings, motives, values and attitudes. Thus, not aiming to find figures or quantitative indicators but information about human production, enriching the discussion on aesthetics reproducibility in fashion. THEORETICAL AND SOCIAL RELEVANCE: Reflect on the aesthetic reproducibility and the social and historical aspects that underlie its consumption. Strongly condemned over the years, consumption was observed by limited theories that did not consider their academic importance due to being attached to subjective aspects. It is increasingly difficult to identify the origin of a fashion design. It comes from the streets, the brands of prestige or within groups. The ideal standards, previously related only to aesthetic standards of the elite, have been replaced by identification with common people who have something to offer. RESULTS AND IMPLICATIONS: The increase of consumption among financially disadvantaged classes in the late nineteenth century led the democratization of fashion, caused not by the social diffusion of goods, but by the copy. Goods from that period to the present day classified consumers as, for or against. Thus, evidencing the symbolic dimension of the object and enabling its use as a social factor which allows inclusion or exclusion from social relations. When supply chain systems increased, elites were enabled to acquire assets that were once rare, consequently becoming depreciated due to its abundance. However, this reason is not sufficient to explain the condemnation copy, since fashion, constantly replaces mass-produced objects with another. With increased trade, technological advances and the possibility of large scale production, the middle class starts to consume copies of luxury objects consequently threatening the reputation of some goods. This appropriation becomes a problem and the imperative of authenticity arises. The copy has its value overturned and falsification emerges with modernity itself. The frequency of use of some goods begins to determine its value in a correlation between consumption and hierarchy. This relates to the copy as it increases the frequency of use of certain object or style, thus devaluing the subjective and aesthetic sense of the good. The value of an object, consequently, is no longer in its utility but in its style and innovation, its social meaning. To draw an analogy between the democratization of culture that is reached by the media, it brings the popular closer to the erudite, allowing the understanding of signs once restricted to a group and now to be shared by a majority. This being possibly one of the biggest impacts that the technical reproducibility created, a breach of the standard of the elite and their exclusives. Among the possible outcomes of this research is a highlight on the investigation on how the practice of copying encourages the creation since far from the judgment of the elite, in the consumption of copy of fashion products by the popular classes is not included just the ignorance about the product , label and abilities but also a freedom to own copied product in its form, as considered appropriated, whether by criteria of beauty, pleasure or financial limits. Research on the subject should not be simplified or underestimated considering the argument of consumption of copies by a subject who is manipulated by the life style promoted by capitalism. It is important to note that even with the use of styles coming from the elites, as a means of social inclusion and upward mobility, this acceptance of fashion standards do not necessarily correspond to the adoption of the values of these upper classes. And as the consumed good are the visible part of the culture it exposes the unique dynamic between the identifications.

Research paper thumbnail of Tree Fashion and Rhizome Fashion: Perspectives to Think About Fashion

Springer International Publishing eBooks, Oct 20, 2022

Research paper thumbnail of The Position of Brazilian Fashion in a Borderless Place

Trending Now: New Developments in Fashion Studies, 2013

Research paper thumbnail of Crítica: Um instrumento de mudança na moda

Projetica

O presente estudo tem como objetivo pesquisar sobre a crítica de moda, como a falta ou a superfic... more O presente estudo tem como objetivo pesquisar sobre a crítica de moda, como a falta ou a superficialidade dela reflete na construção das imagens e como a crítica é capaz de criar um espectador apto a questionar, provocando mudanças na estrutura da moda. Para construir esse estudo, utilizamos a pesquisa qualitativa, buscando por meio dos autores Lars Svendsen, Marie-José Mondzain, Walter Benjamin, Theodor W. Adorno e Max Horkheimer debater um caminho para a crítica de moda.

Research paper thumbnail of Da efemeridade à re-existência

This study proposes to think of fashion by going beyond the notion of ephemerality, seeking meani... more This study proposes to think of fashion by going beyond the notion of ephemerality, seeking meaning in survival as a form of re-existence. In order to problematize the system that builds fashion, it was necessary to destabilize concepts inherent in it, such as origin, newness, linearity, temporality, as well as its historical construction. The research sought to detect lines of flight present within the system itself and brought them closer to the concept of rhizome. Thinking of fashion as an image and later as a rhizome broadened our perspective at the political possibilities that happen in the assemblages that fashion promotes. With this exercise we challenge the unsustainability of fashion as a promoter of change, especially when based on its material aspect. The re-existence in this study allows for a possibility to look at fashion that understands that the empty changes provoked by ephemerality in fashion remain by excess, and the necessary changes are those that survive the te...

Research paper thumbnail of Reflexões sobre a cópia: reprodutibilidade estética nas criações de moda, um recorte do sul de Santa Catarina

Through the analyses of practices used in fashion creation the present study investigated the rol... more Through the analyses of practices used in fashion creation the present study investigated the role of copy as part of the process of product development. In addition to exploring the literature on the technical reproducibility and aesthetic analysis of the subject, the study was anchored by semi-open interviews with designers from the south region of Santa Catarina allowing, among other conclusions, the realization of the strong use of this trend as an indicator for the creative process. Through this research, discussion regarding the condemnation of copy, which is present in various social spheres and even in the fashion industry, was made possible. Due to its broad linkage with poetry and aesthetics, fashion creation can be characterized as language and representation, consequently managing social signs. Widening the scope of the subject, the transgressive power that can emerge in the practice of copy of fashion products was also investigated.

Research paper thumbnail of Lavanderia em jeans e a sustentabilidade em moda: comparativo entre processos tradicionais e ecológicos

Esta pesquisa, por meio da abordagem de investigação estudo de caso, tem como objeto a calça jean... more Esta pesquisa, por meio da abordagem de investigação estudo de caso, tem como objeto a calça jeans. Seu objetivo principal é comparar dois processos de lavanderia em jeans aplicados a este mesmo produto, estimando os custos e recursos utilizados em cada método, que foram nomeados como tradicional e eco. Para tanto, abordamos brevemente a história do jeans, o ciclo de vida dos produtos e a sustentabilidade na moda, apresentando escolhas aplicáveis ao jeans e que contribuem para a preservação do meio ambiente.

Research paper thumbnail of OS SIGNIFICADOS CULTURAIS NO CONSUMO DA CÓPIA NA MODA

Resumo O consumo é algo em movimento constante, estrutura valores e conecta o individual e o cole... more Resumo O consumo é algo em movimento constante, estrutura valores e conecta o individual e o coletivo, o aumento do consumo entre as classes menos favorecidas financeiramente desde final do século XIX implicou uma democratização da moda, que se deu não pela difusão social dos bens, mas por sua cópia. Consumo; Cópia; Moda; Abstract Consumption trends are in constant motion, structuring values and connecting the individual and the collective. The increase consumption of goods among low-income people since the late nineteenth century has led to a democratization of fashion, which has been diffused not due to the social distribution of goods, but due to its copy. Consumption; Copy; Fashion; O breve entendimento de moda que propomos aqui não visa encontrar conceitos para moda, mas destacar o que ela representa estando ligada ao indivíduo e sua relação com a sociedade. A moda de forma paradoxal se mostra na evanescência daquilo que só existe para dar lugar a um outra forma de exibição.

Research paper thumbnail of A moda e sua construção na história: em busca de perspectivas menos totalizantes 1 Fashion and its construction in history: in search of less totalizing perspectives

Resumo: Este estudo compreende a moda como parte de um sistema que se amplia a todo momento, desd... more Resumo: Este estudo compreende a moda como parte de um sistema que se amplia a todo momento, desde sua materialidade mesma até o ponto em que ultrapassa os limites do corpo. A crítica aqui elaborada opõe-se a noções enraizadas que produzem uma visão da moda fundada em forma, linearidade, eurocentrismo, consumo e hierarquia. Esta nova abordagem pensa a moda como imagem naquilo que constrói significados e memória, fazendo, assim, parte da História. A proposta, portanto, é problematizar a construção histórica linear da moda, ampliando seu campo de percepção, seus sentidos e potências em uma perspectiva que busca um olhar menos totalizante para a moda e sua relação com a história. Abstract: Fashion is here understood as part of a system that is in a constant process of expansion, from its materiality to the point where it exceeds the limits of the body. We refute rooted notions of the history of fashion based on form, linearity, eurocentrism, consumption and hierarchy. Our approach defines fashion as image, which produces meaning and memory, and, as a consequence, becomes profoundly historical. The main object is, thus, to problematize the chronological historical construction of fashion in order to expand how the fashion field is perceived in terms of senses and potencies and in search of a less totalizing view of fashion in History.

Research paper thumbnail of ROUPAS QUE NÃO VESTEM VIDAS: O AUDIOVISUAL E O FAST FASHION CLOTHING NOT WEAR LIVES: AUDIOVISUAL AND FAST FASHION

Resumo Este estudo problematiza as formas de dar visibilidade aos problemas causados pelo consumo... more Resumo Este estudo problematiza as formas de dar visibilidade aos problemas causados pelo consumo do fast fashion, especialmente no que tange aos trabalhadores envolvidos na fabricação e descarte das peças de roupa. As produções audiovisuais " Sweatshop: Deadly Fashion " e " Unravel " são utilizadas como objeto deste estudo. Abstract This study discusses ways to give visibility to the problems caused by the fast fashion consumption, especially with respect to workers engaged in the manufacturing and discard of clothing. Audiovisual productions "Sweatshop: Deadly Fashion" and "Unravel" are used as the object of this study.

Research paper thumbnail of CIDADANIA E EXPERIÊNCIA DE CONSUMO: UMA APROXIMAÇÃO COM O CONCEITO DE PARTILHA DO SENSÍVEL

Resumo O presente estudo parte da observação de um projeto de doação de roupas com característica... more Resumo O presente estudo parte da observação de um projeto de doação de roupas com características diferentes das usuais, quando a pessoa recebe a roupa sem a possibilidade de escolha, a diferença que encontro nesta doação é a experiência de compra, de escolha do que vestir, ou seja a experiência do consumo. A escolha do que vestir proporcionada pelo projeto " Street Store " permite o exercício da cidadania conforme entendimento inicial desta pesquisa. O desenvolvimento do projeto Street Store é para este estudo um ato político e se aproxima do conceito de partilha do sensível por sustentar relações que superam os fatores materiais de necessidade. Para dar embasamento a essa percepção e aprofundar a análise busco auxílio nas obras de autores como Mari Douglas e Baron Isherwood (2004), Néstor Garcia Canclini (2003, 2010) e Jacques Ranciere (1996, 2005). Este ensaio se ancora nos conceitos de consumo, cidadania e partilha do sensível. Palavras-Chave: Consumo. Cidadania. Partilha do sensível. Abstract This study starts the observation of a clothing donation project with different characteristics from the usual, when a person receives clothes without the possibility of choosing, the difference I find this donation is the shopping experience, the choice of what to wear, or is the experience of the consumer. The choice of what to wear provided by the project "The Street Store" allows citizenship according to initial understanding of this research. The development of the Street Store project for this study is a political act and approaches the concept of sharing sensitive for sustaining relations that exceed material needs. To provide basement to this perception and deepen the analysis I seek support in the writings of authors such as Mary

Research paper thumbnail of A REDE SOCIAL COMO ESPAÇO PARA PRODUÇÃO DE IMAGENS DE MODA EM UM PROJETO DE EXTENSAO TECNOLÓGICA SOCIAL NETWORKING AS SPACE FOR THE PRODUCTION OF FASHION IMAGES IN A PROJECT OF TECHNOLOGICAL EXTENSION

Resumo Este trabalho se fundamenta no entendimento de que a moda e a tecnologia imprimiram mudanç... more Resumo Este trabalho se fundamenta no entendimento de que a moda e a tecnologia imprimiram mudanças na divulgação das imagens de moda, diminuído sua atuação em revistas e fazendo parte deste período atual habitado pelas redes sociais. Este pressuposto serviu de base para a criação de um projeto extensão tecnológica finalizado em 2015 e que apresentaremos brevemente neste estudo. Este recorte descreve e analisa a constituição de procedimentos e competências no desenvolvimento e consultoria de produção de moda e fotográfica para lojistas de um shopping de varejo que atuou como parceiro no projeto. Abstract This paper is founded on the argument that fashion and technology have imprinted changes in the dissemination of fashion images, reducing its activities in magazines and being part of a time inhabited by social networks. This assumption was the basis for the creation of a technological extension project completed in 2015 and which will be presented briefly in this study. This paper describes and analyzes the establishment of procedures and capacities used in the development and fashion and photography consultancy for a retail shopping center that served as a partner in the project.

Research paper thumbnail of " A costura do invisível " e o " Ato de criação " : moda, arte e política

Resumo O estudo a seguir parte da análise do processo criativo documentado por Jum Nakao na coleç... more Resumo O estudo a seguir parte da análise do processo criativo documentado por Jum Nakao na coleção criada pelo estilista, " A costura do invisível ". Expondo o processo constantemente caótico da indústria da moda, o documentário, é carregado de questionamentos, que culminam com um desfile. Para tanto, esse desfile é percebido aqui como forma artística que reflete e estrutura movimentos sociais. O objetivo principal está na busca de atravessamentos entre a obra de Jum Nakao e o ato de criação de Gilles Deleuze e assim refletir a relação entre política, arte e moda. Palavras Chave: Criação. Moda. Política. Abstract The following study starts from the analysis of the creative process documented by Jum Nakao in the collection created by fashion designer, "The invisible sewing". Constantly exposing the chaotic process of the fashion industry, the documentary is loaded with questions, culminating with a fashion show. For both, this show is perceived here as an art form that structure and reflects social movements. The main objective is in finding crossings between the work of Jum Nakao and " The creation act " by Gilles Deleuze and so reflect the relationship between policy, art and fashion.

Research paper thumbnail of The position of Brazilian Fashion in a borderless place.pdf