Alfredo L Aretxabaleta - Academia.edu (original) (raw)

Papers by Alfredo L Aretxabaleta

We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been ad... more We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been added to the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS version 3.6), as implemented in the Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment-Transport Modeling System (COAWST Subversion repository revision 1179). These include: floc dynamics (aggregation and disaggregation in the water column); changes in floc characteristics in the seabed; erosion and deposition of cohesive and mixed (combination of cohesive and non-cohesive) sediment; and biodiffusive mixing of bed sediment. These routines supplement existing non-cohesive sediment modules, thereby increasing our ability to model fine-grained and mixedsediment environments. Additionally, we describe changes to the sediment bed-layering scheme that improve the fidelity of the modeled stratigraphic record. Finally, we provide examples of these modules implemented in idealized test cases and a realistic application.

Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences

Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea ... more Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea level fluctuations that are modulated by bay geometry and bathymetry, causing spatial variability in the ensuing response (transfer). Local wind setup can have a complementary role that depends on wind speed, fetch, and relative orientation of the wind direction and the bay. Bay area and inlet geometry and bathymetry primarily regulate the magnitude of the transfer between open ocean and bay. Tides and short-period offshore oscillations are more damped in the bays than longer-lasting offshore fluctuations, such as a storm surge and sea level rise. We compare observed and modeled water levels at stations in a mid-Atlantic bay (Barnegat Bay) with offshore water level proxies. Observed water levels in Barnegat Bay are compared and combined with model results from the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to evaluate the spatial structure of the water level transfer. Analytical models based on the dimensional characteristics of the bay are used to combine the observed data and the numerical model results in a physically consistent approach. Model water level transfers match observed values at locations inside the bay in the storm frequency band (transfers ranging from 50 %-100 %) and tidal frequencies (10 %-55 %). The contribution of frequency-dependent local setup caused by wind acting along the bay is also considered. The wind setup effect can be comparable in magnitude to the offshore transfer forcing during intense storms. The approach provides transfer estimates for locations inside the bay where observations were not available, resulting in a complete spatial characterization. An extension of the methodology that takes advantage of the ADCIRC tidal database for the east coast of the United States allows for the expansion of the approach to other bay systems. Detailed spatial estimates of water level transfer can inform decisions on inlet management and contribute to the assessment of current and future flooding hazard in back-barrier bays and along mainland shorelines.

Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Discussions

Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea ... more Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea level fluctuations that are modulated by bay geometry and bathymetry, causing spatial variability in the ensuing response (transfer). Local wind setup can have a secondary role that depends on wind speed, fetch, and relative orientation of the wind direction and the bay. Inlet geometry and bathymetry primarily regulate the magnitude of the transfer between open ocean and bay. Tides 10 and short-period offshore oscillations are more damped in the bays than longer-lasting offshore fluctuations, such as storm surge and sea level rise. We compare observed and modeled water levels at stations in a mid-Atlantic bay (Barnegat Bay) with offshore water level proxies. Observed water levels in Barnegat Bay are compared and combined with model results from the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to evaluate the spatial structure of the water level transfer. Analytical models based on the dimensional characteristics of the bay are used to 15 combine the observed data and the numerical model results in a physically consistent approach. Model water level transfers match observed values at locations inside the Bay in the storm frequency band (transfers ranging from 70-100%) and tidal frequencies (10-55%). The contribution of frequency-dependent local setup caused by wind acting along the bay is also considered. The approach provides transfer estimates for locations inside the Bay where observations were not available resulting in a complete spatial characterization. The approach allows for the study of the Bay response to alternative forcing 20 scenarios (landscape changes, future storms, and rising sea level). Detailed spatial estimates of water level transfer can inform decisions on inlet management and contribute to the assessment of current and future flooding hazard in back-barrier bays and along mainland shorelines.

Geoscientific Model Development

We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been ad... more We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been added to the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS version 3.6), as implemented in the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport Modeling System (COAWST Subversion repository revision 1234). These include the following: floc dynamics (aggregation and disaggregation in the water column); changes in floc characteristics in the seabed; erosion and deposition of cohesive and mixed (combination of cohesive and non-cohesive) sediment; and biodiffusive mixing of bed sediment. These routines supplement existing noncohesive sediment modules, thereby increasing our ability to model fine-grained and mixed-sediment environments. Additionally, we describe changes to the sediment bed layering scheme that improve the fidelity of the modeled stratigraphic record. Finally, we provide examples of these modules implemented in idealized test cases and a realistic application.

Biogeosciences Discussions

The light climate in back-barrier estuaries is a strong control on phytoplankton and submerged aq... more The light climate in back-barrier estuaries is a strong control on phytoplankton and submerged aquatic vegetation (SAV) growth, and ultimately net ecosystem metabolism. However, quantifying the spatiotemporal variability of light attenuation and net ecosystem metabolism over seasonal timescales is difficult due to sampling limitations and dynamic physical and biogeochemical processes. Differences in the dominant primary producer at a 10 given location (e.g., phytoplankton versus SAV) can also determine diel variations in dissolved oxygen and associated ecosystem metabolism. Over a one year period we measured hydrodynamic properties, biogeochemical variables (fDOM, turbidity, chlorophyll-a fluorescence, dissolved oxygen), and photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) at multiple locations in Chincoteague Bay, Maryland/Virginia, USA, a shallow back-barrier estuary. We quantified light attenuation, net ecosystem metabolism, and timescales of variability for several water properties at 15 paired channel-shoal sites along the longitudinal axis of the bay. The channelized sites, which were dominated by fine bed sediment, exhibited slightly higher light attenuation due to increased wind-wave sediment resuspension. Light attenuation due to fDOM was slightly higher in the northern portion of the bay, while attenuation due to chlorophyll-a was only relevant at one channelized site, proximal to nutrient and freshwater loading. Gross primary production and respiration were highest at the vegetated shoal sites, though enhanced production and respiration 20 were also observed at one channelized, nutrient-enriched site. Production and respiration were nearly balanced throughout the year at all sites, but there was a tendency for net autotrophy at shoal sites, especially during periods of high SAV biomass. Shoal sites, where SAV was present, demonstrated a reduction in gross primary production (GPP) when light attenuation was highest, but GPP at adjacent shoal sites where phytoplankton were dominant was less sensitive to light attenuation. This study demonstrates how extensive continuous physical and biological

Ciencias Marinas

recursos, dada la necesidad que existe de hacer pronósticos de dispersión larval, éxito de desove... more recursos, dada la necesidad que existe de hacer pronósticos de dispersión larval, éxito de desove y reclutamiento. Una forma de atacar este tema es acoplar a modelos de circulación lagrangiana, información clave de los estadios tempranos de vida de las especies e identificar los procesos oceanográficos de mayor influencia en las escalas de tiempo relacionadas a la dinámica poblacional. Ejemplos de esto son la evaluación de probabilidades de asentamiento al finalizar el periodo larval de ciertas especies, la coincidencia de áreas de concentración de alimento (fitoplancton) con la retención de organismos en un hábitat apropiado durante el Modelación de la circulación invernal y la retención de partículas en el sistema lagunar Bahía Magdalena-Almejas

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2015

Cross-and along-shelf winds drive cross-shelf transport that promotes the exchange of tracers and... more Cross-and along-shelf winds drive cross-shelf transport that promotes the exchange of tracers and nutrients to the open sea. The shelf response to cross-shelf winds is studied in the north shelf of the Ebro Delta (Mediterranean Sea), where those winds are prevalent and intense. Offshore winds in the region exhibit strong intensities (wind stress larger than 0.8 Pa) during winter and fall. The monthly average flow observed in a one-year current meter record at 43.5 m was polarized following the isobaths with the along-shelf variability being larger than the cross-shelf. Prevalent southwestward along-shelf flow was induced by the 3dimensional regional response to cross-shelf winds and the coastal constraint. Seaward near-surface velocities occurred predominantly during offshore wind events. During intense wind periods, the surface cross-shelf water transport exceeded the net along-shelf transport. During typically stratified seasons, the intense cross-shelf winds resulted in a well-defined two-layer flow and were more effective at driving offshore transport than during unstratified conditions. While transfer coefficients between wind and currents were generally around 1%, higher cross-shelf transfer coefficients were observed in the near-inertial band. The regional extent of the resulting upwelling during energetic cross-shelf winds events, estimated using surface temperature, was concentrated around the region of the wind jet. Cross-shelf transport due to along-shelf winds was only effective during northeast wind events. During along-shelf wind conditions, the transport was estimated to be between 10% and 50% of the theoretical Ekman transport.

Estuaries and Coasts, 2015

Numerical modeling has emerged over the last several decades as a widely accepted tool for invest... more Numerical modeling has emerged over the last several decades as a widely accepted tool for investigations in environmental sciences. In estuarine research, hydrodynamic and ecological models have moved along parallel tracks with regard to complexity, refinement, computational power, and incorporation of uncertainty. Coupled hydrodynamicecological models have been used to assess ecosystem processes and interactions, simulate future scenarios, and evaluate remedial actions in response to eutrophication, habitat loss, and freshwater diversion. The need to couple hydrodynamic and ecological models to address research and management questions is clear because dynamic feedbacks between biotic and physical processes are critical interactions within ecosystems. In this review, we present historical and modern perspectives on estuarine hydrodynamic and ecological modeling, consider model limitations, and address aspects of model linkage, skill assessment, and complexity. We discuss the balance between spatial and temporal resolution and present examples using different spatiotemporal scales. Finally, we recommend future lines of inquiry, approaches to balance complexity and uncertainty, and model transparency and utility. It is idealistic to think we can pursue a Btheory of everything^for estuarine models, but recent advances suggest that models for both scientific investigations and management applications will continue to improve in terms of realism, precision, and accuracy.

Ocean Science Discussions, 2015

Recent studies have shown significant sea surface salinity (SSS) changes at scales ranging from r... more Recent studies have shown significant sea surface salinity (SSS) changes at scales ranging from regional to global. In this study, we estimate global salinity means and trends using historical (1950–2014) SSS data from the UK Met. Office Hadley Centre objectively analyzed monthly fields and recent data from the SMOS satellite (2010–2014). We separate the different components (regimes) of the global surface salinity by fitting a Gaussian Mixture Model to the data and using Expectation–Maximization to distinguish the means and trends of the data. The procedure uses a non-subjective method (Bayesian Information Criterion) to extract the optimal number of means and trends. The results show the presence of three separate regimes: Regime A (1950–1990) is characterized by small trend magnitudes; Regime B (1990–2009) exhibited enhanced trends; and Regime C (2009–2014) with significantly larger trend magnitudes. The salinity differences between regime means were around 0.01. The trend accele...

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2014

We identify the mechanisms controlling fine deposits on the inner-shelf in front of the Bes os Ri... more We identify the mechanisms controlling fine deposits on the inner-shelf in front of the Bes os River, in the northwestern Mediterranean Sea. This river is characterized by a flash flood regime discharging large amounts of water (more than 20 times the mean water discharge) and sediment in very short periods lasting from hours to few days. Numerical model output was compared with bottom sediment observations and used to characterize the multiple spatial and temporal scales involved in offshore sediment deposit formation. A high-resolution (50 m grid size) coupled hydrodynamic-wave-sediment transport model was applied to the initial stages of the sediment dispersal after a storm-related flood event. After the flood, sediment accumulation was predominantly confined to an area near the coastline as a result of preferential deposition during the final stage of the storm. Subsequent reworking occurred due to wave-induced bottom shear stress that resuspended fine materials, with seaward flow exporting them toward the midshelf. Wave characteristics, sediment availability, and shelf circulation determined the transport after the reworking and the final sediment deposition location. One year simulations of the regional area revealed a prevalent southwestward average flow with increased intensity downstream. The circulation pattern was consistent with the observed fine deposit depocenter being shifted southward from the river mouth. At the southern edge, bathymetry controlled the fine deposition by inducing near-bottom flow convergence enhancing bottom shear stress. According to the shortterm and long-term analyses, a seasonal pattern in the fine deposit formation is expected. Recently, sediment dynamics on continental shelves have been investigated using advanced modeling tools. Warner et al. [2008a] used a numerical system to analyze storm-driven sediment transport in Key Points: We identify the mechanisms controlling fine deposits Numerical model output was compared with bottom sediment observations Characterization the multiple spatial and temporal scales involved

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2013

This study characterizes the seasonal cycle of the Catalan inner-shelf circulation using observat... more This study characterizes the seasonal cycle of the Catalan inner-shelf circulation using observations and complementary numerical results. The relation between seasonal circulation and forcing mechanisms is explored through the depth-averaged momentum balance, for the period between May 2010 and April 2011, when velocity observations were partially available. The monthly-mean along-shelf flow is mainly controlled by the alongshelf pressure gradient and by surface and bottom stresses. During summer, fall, and winter, the along-shelf momentum balance is dominated by the barotropic pressure gradient and local winds. During spring, both wind stress and pressure gradient act in the same direction and are compensated by bottom stress. In the cross-shelf direction the dominant forces are in geostrophic balance, consistent with dynamic altimetry data.

2010 IEEE International Geoscience and Remote Sensing Symposium, 2010

Preliminary results obtained during the commissioning phase of the Soil Moisture and Ocean Salini... more Preliminary results obtained during the commissioning phase of the Soil Moisture and Ocean Salinity (SMOS) mission are described, devoting special attention to the characterization of the systematic errors found in the measurements and the corresponding impact in the retrieved salinity product. The identified issues and objectives to consolidate and improve the processing chain are also described.

Particles in the Coastal Ocean Theory and Applications, 2015

Particles in the Coastal Ocean Theory and Applications, 2015

We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been ad... more We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been added to the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS version 3.6), as implemented in the Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment-Transport Modeling System (COAWST Subversion repository revision 1179). These include: floc dynamics (aggregation and disaggregation in the water column); changes in floc characteristics in the seabed; erosion and deposition of cohesive and mixed (combination of cohesive and non-cohesive) sediment; and biodiffusive mixing of bed sediment. These routines supplement existing non-cohesive sediment modules, thereby increasing our ability to model fine-grained and mixedsediment environments. Additionally, we describe changes to the sediment bed-layering scheme that improve the fidelity of the modeled stratigraphic record. Finally, we provide examples of these modules implemented in idealized test cases and a realistic application.

Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences

Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea ... more Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea level fluctuations that are modulated by bay geometry and bathymetry, causing spatial variability in the ensuing response (transfer). Local wind setup can have a complementary role that depends on wind speed, fetch, and relative orientation of the wind direction and the bay. Bay area and inlet geometry and bathymetry primarily regulate the magnitude of the transfer between open ocean and bay. Tides and short-period offshore oscillations are more damped in the bays than longer-lasting offshore fluctuations, such as a storm surge and sea level rise. We compare observed and modeled water levels at stations in a mid-Atlantic bay (Barnegat Bay) with offshore water level proxies. Observed water levels in Barnegat Bay are compared and combined with model results from the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to evaluate the spatial structure of the water level transfer. Analytical models based on the dimensional characteristics of the bay are used to combine the observed data and the numerical model results in a physically consistent approach. Model water level transfers match observed values at locations inside the bay in the storm frequency band (transfers ranging from 50 %-100 %) and tidal frequencies (10 %-55 %). The contribution of frequency-dependent local setup caused by wind acting along the bay is also considered. The wind setup effect can be comparable in magnitude to the offshore transfer forcing during intense storms. The approach provides transfer estimates for locations inside the bay where observations were not available, resulting in a complete spatial characterization. An extension of the methodology that takes advantage of the ADCIRC tidal database for the east coast of the United States allows for the expansion of the approach to other bay systems. Detailed spatial estimates of water level transfer can inform decisions on inlet management and contribute to the assessment of current and future flooding hazard in back-barrier bays and along mainland shorelines.

Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Discussions

Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea ... more Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea level fluctuations that are modulated by bay geometry and bathymetry, causing spatial variability in the ensuing response (transfer). Local wind setup can have a secondary role that depends on wind speed, fetch, and relative orientation of the wind direction and the bay. Inlet geometry and bathymetry primarily regulate the magnitude of the transfer between open ocean and bay. Tides 10 and short-period offshore oscillations are more damped in the bays than longer-lasting offshore fluctuations, such as storm surge and sea level rise. We compare observed and modeled water levels at stations in a mid-Atlantic bay (Barnegat Bay) with offshore water level proxies. Observed water levels in Barnegat Bay are compared and combined with model results from the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to evaluate the spatial structure of the water level transfer. Analytical models based on the dimensional characteristics of the bay are used to 15 combine the observed data and the numerical model results in a physically consistent approach. Model water level transfers match observed values at locations inside the Bay in the storm frequency band (transfers ranging from 70-100%) and tidal frequencies (10-55%). The contribution of frequency-dependent local setup caused by wind acting along the bay is also considered. The approach provides transfer estimates for locations inside the Bay where observations were not available resulting in a complete spatial characterization. The approach allows for the study of the Bay response to alternative forcing 20 scenarios (landscape changes, future storms, and rising sea level). Detailed spatial estimates of water level transfer can inform decisions on inlet management and contribute to the assessment of current and future flooding hazard in back-barrier bays and along mainland shorelines.

Geoscientific Model Development

We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been ad... more We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been added to the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS version 3.6), as implemented in the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport Modeling System (COAWST Subversion repository revision 1234). These include the following: floc dynamics (aggregation and disaggregation in the water column); changes in floc characteristics in the seabed; erosion and deposition of cohesive and mixed (combination of cohesive and non-cohesive) sediment; and biodiffusive mixing of bed sediment. These routines supplement existing noncohesive sediment modules, thereby increasing our ability to model fine-grained and mixed-sediment environments. Additionally, we describe changes to the sediment bed layering scheme that improve the fidelity of the modeled stratigraphic record. Finally, we provide examples of these modules implemented in idealized test cases and a realistic application.

Biogeosciences Discussions

The light climate in back-barrier estuaries is a strong control on phytoplankton and submerged aq... more The light climate in back-barrier estuaries is a strong control on phytoplankton and submerged aquatic vegetation (SAV) growth, and ultimately net ecosystem metabolism. However, quantifying the spatiotemporal variability of light attenuation and net ecosystem metabolism over seasonal timescales is difficult due to sampling limitations and dynamic physical and biogeochemical processes. Differences in the dominant primary producer at a 10 given location (e.g., phytoplankton versus SAV) can also determine diel variations in dissolved oxygen and associated ecosystem metabolism. Over a one year period we measured hydrodynamic properties, biogeochemical variables (fDOM, turbidity, chlorophyll-a fluorescence, dissolved oxygen), and photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) at multiple locations in Chincoteague Bay, Maryland/Virginia, USA, a shallow back-barrier estuary. We quantified light attenuation, net ecosystem metabolism, and timescales of variability for several water properties at 15 paired channel-shoal sites along the longitudinal axis of the bay. The channelized sites, which were dominated by fine bed sediment, exhibited slightly higher light attenuation due to increased wind-wave sediment resuspension. Light attenuation due to fDOM was slightly higher in the northern portion of the bay, while attenuation due to chlorophyll-a was only relevant at one channelized site, proximal to nutrient and freshwater loading. Gross primary production and respiration were highest at the vegetated shoal sites, though enhanced production and respiration 20 were also observed at one channelized, nutrient-enriched site. Production and respiration were nearly balanced throughout the year at all sites, but there was a tendency for net autotrophy at shoal sites, especially during periods of high SAV biomass. Shoal sites, where SAV was present, demonstrated a reduction in gross primary production (GPP) when light attenuation was highest, but GPP at adjacent shoal sites where phytoplankton were dominant was less sensitive to light attenuation. This study demonstrates how extensive continuous physical and biological

Ciencias Marinas

recursos, dada la necesidad que existe de hacer pronósticos de dispersión larval, éxito de desove... more recursos, dada la necesidad que existe de hacer pronósticos de dispersión larval, éxito de desove y reclutamiento. Una forma de atacar este tema es acoplar a modelos de circulación lagrangiana, información clave de los estadios tempranos de vida de las especies e identificar los procesos oceanográficos de mayor influencia en las escalas de tiempo relacionadas a la dinámica poblacional. Ejemplos de esto son la evaluación de probabilidades de asentamiento al finalizar el periodo larval de ciertas especies, la coincidencia de áreas de concentración de alimento (fitoplancton) con la retención de organismos en un hábitat apropiado durante el Modelación de la circulación invernal y la retención de partículas en el sistema lagunar Bahía Magdalena-Almejas

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2015

Cross-and along-shelf winds drive cross-shelf transport that promotes the exchange of tracers and... more Cross-and along-shelf winds drive cross-shelf transport that promotes the exchange of tracers and nutrients to the open sea. The shelf response to cross-shelf winds is studied in the north shelf of the Ebro Delta (Mediterranean Sea), where those winds are prevalent and intense. Offshore winds in the region exhibit strong intensities (wind stress larger than 0.8 Pa) during winter and fall. The monthly average flow observed in a one-year current meter record at 43.5 m was polarized following the isobaths with the along-shelf variability being larger than the cross-shelf. Prevalent southwestward along-shelf flow was induced by the 3dimensional regional response to cross-shelf winds and the coastal constraint. Seaward near-surface velocities occurred predominantly during offshore wind events. During intense wind periods, the surface cross-shelf water transport exceeded the net along-shelf transport. During typically stratified seasons, the intense cross-shelf winds resulted in a well-defined two-layer flow and were more effective at driving offshore transport than during unstratified conditions. While transfer coefficients between wind and currents were generally around 1%, higher cross-shelf transfer coefficients were observed in the near-inertial band. The regional extent of the resulting upwelling during energetic cross-shelf winds events, estimated using surface temperature, was concentrated around the region of the wind jet. Cross-shelf transport due to along-shelf winds was only effective during northeast wind events. During along-shelf wind conditions, the transport was estimated to be between 10% and 50% of the theoretical Ekman transport.

Estuaries and Coasts, 2015

Numerical modeling has emerged over the last several decades as a widely accepted tool for invest... more Numerical modeling has emerged over the last several decades as a widely accepted tool for investigations in environmental sciences. In estuarine research, hydrodynamic and ecological models have moved along parallel tracks with regard to complexity, refinement, computational power, and incorporation of uncertainty. Coupled hydrodynamicecological models have been used to assess ecosystem processes and interactions, simulate future scenarios, and evaluate remedial actions in response to eutrophication, habitat loss, and freshwater diversion. The need to couple hydrodynamic and ecological models to address research and management questions is clear because dynamic feedbacks between biotic and physical processes are critical interactions within ecosystems. In this review, we present historical and modern perspectives on estuarine hydrodynamic and ecological modeling, consider model limitations, and address aspects of model linkage, skill assessment, and complexity. We discuss the balance between spatial and temporal resolution and present examples using different spatiotemporal scales. Finally, we recommend future lines of inquiry, approaches to balance complexity and uncertainty, and model transparency and utility. It is idealistic to think we can pursue a Btheory of everything^for estuarine models, but recent advances suggest that models for both scientific investigations and management applications will continue to improve in terms of realism, precision, and accuracy.

Ocean Science Discussions, 2015

Recent studies have shown significant sea surface salinity (SSS) changes at scales ranging from r... more Recent studies have shown significant sea surface salinity (SSS) changes at scales ranging from regional to global. In this study, we estimate global salinity means and trends using historical (1950–2014) SSS data from the UK Met. Office Hadley Centre objectively analyzed monthly fields and recent data from the SMOS satellite (2010–2014). We separate the different components (regimes) of the global surface salinity by fitting a Gaussian Mixture Model to the data and using Expectation–Maximization to distinguish the means and trends of the data. The procedure uses a non-subjective method (Bayesian Information Criterion) to extract the optimal number of means and trends. The results show the presence of three separate regimes: Regime A (1950–1990) is characterized by small trend magnitudes; Regime B (1990–2009) exhibited enhanced trends; and Regime C (2009–2014) with significantly larger trend magnitudes. The salinity differences between regime means were around 0.01. The trend accele...

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2014

We identify the mechanisms controlling fine deposits on the inner-shelf in front of the Bes os Ri... more We identify the mechanisms controlling fine deposits on the inner-shelf in front of the Bes os River, in the northwestern Mediterranean Sea. This river is characterized by a flash flood regime discharging large amounts of water (more than 20 times the mean water discharge) and sediment in very short periods lasting from hours to few days. Numerical model output was compared with bottom sediment observations and used to characterize the multiple spatial and temporal scales involved in offshore sediment deposit formation. A high-resolution (50 m grid size) coupled hydrodynamic-wave-sediment transport model was applied to the initial stages of the sediment dispersal after a storm-related flood event. After the flood, sediment accumulation was predominantly confined to an area near the coastline as a result of preferential deposition during the final stage of the storm. Subsequent reworking occurred due to wave-induced bottom shear stress that resuspended fine materials, with seaward flow exporting them toward the midshelf. Wave characteristics, sediment availability, and shelf circulation determined the transport after the reworking and the final sediment deposition location. One year simulations of the regional area revealed a prevalent southwestward average flow with increased intensity downstream. The circulation pattern was consistent with the observed fine deposit depocenter being shifted southward from the river mouth. At the southern edge, bathymetry controlled the fine deposition by inducing near-bottom flow convergence enhancing bottom shear stress. According to the shortterm and long-term analyses, a seasonal pattern in the fine deposit formation is expected. Recently, sediment dynamics on continental shelves have been investigated using advanced modeling tools. Warner et al. [2008a] used a numerical system to analyze storm-driven sediment transport in Key Points: We identify the mechanisms controlling fine deposits Numerical model output was compared with bottom sediment observations Characterization the multiple spatial and temporal scales involved

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2013

This study characterizes the seasonal cycle of the Catalan inner-shelf circulation using observat... more This study characterizes the seasonal cycle of the Catalan inner-shelf circulation using observations and complementary numerical results. The relation between seasonal circulation and forcing mechanisms is explored through the depth-averaged momentum balance, for the period between May 2010 and April 2011, when velocity observations were partially available. The monthly-mean along-shelf flow is mainly controlled by the alongshelf pressure gradient and by surface and bottom stresses. During summer, fall, and winter, the along-shelf momentum balance is dominated by the barotropic pressure gradient and local winds. During spring, both wind stress and pressure gradient act in the same direction and are compensated by bottom stress. In the cross-shelf direction the dominant forces are in geostrophic balance, consistent with dynamic altimetry data.

2010 IEEE International Geoscience and Remote Sensing Symposium, 2010

Preliminary results obtained during the commissioning phase of the Soil Moisture and Ocean Salini... more Preliminary results obtained during the commissioning phase of the Soil Moisture and Ocean Salinity (SMOS) mission are described, devoting special attention to the characterization of the systematic errors found in the measurements and the corresponding impact in the retrieved salinity product. The identified issues and objectives to consolidate and improve the processing chain are also described.

Particles in the Coastal Ocean Theory and Applications, 2015

Particles in the Coastal Ocean Theory and Applications, 2015