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Papers by Anthony Kent

This chapter examines the design of wearable medical devices. Design is understood to be a proces... more This chapter examines the design of wearable medical devices. Design is understood to be a process and output that concerns the form, function and the meaning of the designed object. However, participation in the design process by users can actively influence the output. Involvement in the co-creation of personal medical devices (PMDs) contributes towards patients’ wellbeing and increases their adherence to device usage. The chapter takes a case study approach to the design of orthotics in which patients are involved as co-designers, considering the solutions crafted by traditional and digital technologies within the framework of a biopsychosocial model of healthcare. The chapter concludes with insights into the benefits to patients and healthcare services from orthotics conceived and worn as desirable objects.

Journal of Cleaner Production, 2020

Claxton, S. and Kent A. (2020) The management of sustainable fashion design strategies: An analys... more Claxton, S. and Kent A. (2020) The management of sustainable fashion design strategies: An analysis of the designer's role.

Journal of Business Research, 2014

The researchers firstly would like to thank the interior architecture students who assisted in th... more The researchers firstly would like to thank the interior architecture students who assisted in the process of data collection. Secondly, they wish to express their highest gratitude to Prof. dr. Wim Janssens, Prof. dr. Pieter Desmet, dr. Jan Vanrie and interior architect Philippe Swartenbroux for proofreading this article and for their valuable feedback and discussion.

Handbook of Research on Global Fashion Management and Merchandising

The evolution from single channel to multichannel retailing is explained by the need to overcome ... more The evolution from single channel to multichannel retailing is explained by the need to overcome existing format limitations such as the size of store, expansion in new markets through electronic channels, increasing sales by cross-channel interactions and gaining valuable insight into consumer behaviour through the Internet. The aim of this chapter is to explain the development and implementation of omnichannel retailing and to demonstrate its experiential touchpoints in department stores. Case study approach is adopted to look at the development of omichannel integration and retail touchpoints in two iconing department stores: Harrods and Selfridges. Different strategies are identified and implications of each are discussed with relevant recommendations for retail practitioners.

Journal of Product & Brand Management, 2010

PurposeThe aim of this paper is to examine the relationship between the architecture of retail st... more PurposeThe aim of this paper is to examine the relationship between the architecture of retail stores and the communication of brand identity.Design/methodology/approachThe researchers adopted a qualitative approach using case studies of the design process and architecture of four new food superstores in the UK between 1998 and 2005. The case studies draw on interviews, photographs, observations, and archival materials.FindingsThe case studies demonstrate that high‐profile architects have been involved in the design of supermarket buildings. The reuse of buildings has also become a significant element of visual identity at a local level. “Stealth” design, by contrast, reduces visual identity. In each case the relationship between retailer, architect, local authority, media and public opinion influenced the design process and the visual identity of the building.Research implicationsThe research implications are that architecture is not well understood in the retail industry as a medi...

Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases

Vintage Luxury Fashion

This chapter provides an overview of vintage fashion retailing and how it has been typified by it... more This chapter provides an overview of vintage fashion retailing and how it has been typified by its evolution. By first reviewing the environment and giving an in-depth background to vintage fashion retailing, it moves onto defining what the concept of vintage entails, how it can be sourced and supplied. The chapter utilises a practice-based approach to analyse the market of vintage fashion retailing and demonstrates how retailers, suppliers and consumers, each knowledgable in specialist areas of interest, define the buying and selling of merchandise.

International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management

PurposeContinuous change has long been recognized as a core characteristic of retailing, its rece... more PurposeContinuous change has long been recognized as a core characteristic of retailing, its recent acceleration unprecedented, yet innovation in retailing remains under-researched, especially within fashion retailing. Therefore, the aim of this paper is to generate a deeper understanding of if, and to what extent, fashion retailers across different market segments are innovating in terms of in-store technology diffusion over time by taking a long-term perspective over five years.Design/methodology/approachDrawing on retail change and innovation diffusion theory, the study takes a qualitative approach, using direct observation of 71 fashion stores in London (UK) in 2014 and 2019. In total, 142 stores were tabulated in Excel and qualitatively analysed manually and with NVivo.FindingsThe findings identify the innovation adoption strategies implemented, the types of in-store technologies adopted over time and the fashion retail innovation adopters.Originality/valueThe research offers n...

Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services

Abstract This paper explores changes in technology-enabled omnichannel customer experiences in st... more Abstract This paper explores changes in technology-enabled omnichannel customer experiences in stores over a five-year period (2014–2019). It contributes to the omnichannel-experience-management literature through customer technology-enabled touchpoints within fashion retail. Adopting an exploratory qualitative approach, primary data were obtained using semi-structured interviews with millennial consumers. The findings demonstrate the growing importance of implementing and integrating in-store technologies to improve customer experience. From these, two models are developed: “technology-induced customer experience in-store”; and “technology-enabled customer shopping journey in-store”.

Fashion Practice

Abstract The aim of this paper is to assess opportunities for the upcycling of waste clothing thr... more Abstract The aim of this paper is to assess opportunities for the upcycling of waste clothing through design workshops held in Accra, Ghana. An upcycling approach to clothing longevity examines how garments can be re-designed and resold in a new form. Significant amounts of surplus and second-hand clothing from the developed world and large producer nations, for example China, are distributed to Africa and sold in local markets at affordable prices. The research was conducted into upcycling waste clothing from the market by five groups of fashion design students at Accra Technical University (ATU). A participatory research design was applied to the project and the initial briefing to design groups confirmed the concept of upcycling and the design parameters. Each group defined a design theme, made a selection of clothes and accessories in the Accra market and returned to the university to conceptualise and re-create clothes and accessories. The project culminated in presentations of finished garments modelled by the students. It addressed the disposal stage of the circular economy model of clothing sustainability by providing new knowledge of how waste clothing, readily available in a developing country’s market can be sourced and creatively re-designed into new garments and accessories.

Global Fashion Management Conference

Management Decision

Purpose An ageing population in the developed world has become a significant topic in the contemp... more Purpose An ageing population in the developed world has become a significant topic in the contemporary research agenda. The purpose of this paper is to report on the development of a new small-scale business model based on facilitating in-depth understanding and responding to mature female consumers’ needs and expectations towards fashionable clothing. Design/methodology/approach Two complementary approaches are used: interpretative phenomenological analysis allows the researchers to employ the life-course perspective and to develop in-depth understanding of individuals’ present experiences in relation to their past. Action research offers the possibility to develop participatory, co-design processes based on collective creativity and mutual knowledge exchange between the stakeholders. Findings The research finds a strong interest in fashionable clothing by women, irrespective of their age. The action-based co-design process involving collaborative encounters with mature consumers c...

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to examine the co-creation of small and medium enterprise ... more Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to examine the co-creation of small and medium enterprise (SME) designer fashion brands during internationalisation. Design/methodology/approach – As an exploratory study, this research utilises grounded theory methodology and incorporates the use of 38 semi-structured in-depth interviews with designer fashion enterprises (DFEs) and their support network of sales and PR agencies. Findings – Co-creation was identified as an important element for the successful integration of the entrepreneurial DFE into the global fashion industry network. Within relationship marketing, the concept of co-creation emphasises consumer experience, influence and power in the development of brand value. However current understanding of co-creation inadequately explains the development of the entrepreneurial designer fashion brand, requiring examination of the concept using grounded theory. The findings of this research highlight how these SMEs react and respond to th...

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 2016

This Special Issue investigates key factors in the relationship between designers and marketers i... more This Special Issue investigates key factors in the relationship between designers and marketers in management roles. Several previous studies have investigated the nature of the relationship between marketing and design, viewing them as existing within different cultures and modes of thinking. For example, Roberts-Lombard and Holland (2011) identified key differences in approaches to working practice, in that designers in their study were innovative and creative via design, as well as non-profit-orientated, in contrast to marketers whose creativity was more profit-orientated, driven by the requirements of target customers. Similarly, Beverland and Farrelly (2011) refer to stereotypical views of designers as 'impractical idealists' concentrating on the shape of products and looking to the future, whereas marketers can be perceived as lacking imagination and focusing mainly on how products fit with consumer needs at the present time. As a result of their research, Beverland and Farrelly (2011) proposed that improved relations between marketers and designers via the deployment of 'cultural intelligence' should contribute to improvements in New Product Development (NPD). Similarly Svengren Holm and Johansson (2005) identified differences in the mindsets of designers and marketers and identified five key factors of cooperation between the two specialisms: 1) attitude towards the product 2) professional identity 3) attitudes towards corporate identity 4) relation to value creation and 5) approach to consumer and market research. Other researchers have proposed practical solutions to integrate design and marketing effectively, e.g. by locating these departments in close proximity and conducting cross-functional reviews (Leenders and Wierenga, 2002). However, previous research in this field has concentrated largely on product design, rather than fashion, with limited reference to design in relation to other aspects of the marketing mix, hence the requirement for a journal issue on this topic. An emerging interest in creativity and creative organisations during the 1990s turned managers towards design and its contribution to business innovation. Design thinking offered ways to develop new concepts, methodology and practices in products, services and experiences. These were evident in complex, 'wicked' problem-solving capabilities, abductive approaches and design tool-kits. Distinctive designs were seen to provide marginenhancing solutions to commodification and cost-driven marketing mixes. Consequently the two disciplines of design and marketing closed in on similar fields of research at times integrating but also competing, notably in branding where design and marketing-led approaches offer similar contributions to management practice and academic research. Broadly, designers and marketers have the same aims to maintain or improve the performance of the organisation in which they are employed. However, their objectives towards achieving this aim can differ and lead to potential organisational dissonance. In this context the first workshops were hosted by Professor Tony Kent, Professor T.C. Melewar and Professor Charles Dennis at the University of the Arts and Brunel University. Subsequently the International Colloquium on Design, Branding and Marketing was conceived by the founders, who launched their first colloquium in 2011, with the aim of developing new insights and knowledge of points of difference and convergence. This Special Issue largely derives from the second colloquium in 2014, which offered a focus for design and marketing, with a strong contribution from fashion marketing academics. These disciplines are particularly interesting to researchers in consumption, identity and branding, and in recent years, luxury, as evidenced by the current popularity of articles on luxury fashion in JFMM. Moreover the fast fashion system provides further research challenges in the complexity of its supply chains and markets, dynamics and global reach. Fashion has a fundamental relationship with design. It distinguishes the designer, the label and the brand with a consistent and recognisable identity. Branding has become an essential component of marketing, in attracting and retaining customers and brand equity is a major concern in valuing fashion businesses (Johansson and Svengren Holm, 2004), intersecting between the design and marketing functions.

EPMA Journal, 2016

Predictive preventive personalized medicine Liver cancer is the fifth most common form of cancer ... more Predictive preventive personalized medicine Liver cancer is the fifth most common form of cancer worldwide [1], with an incidence rate almost equals the mortality rate and ranks 3 rd among causes of cancer related death [2]. The coexistence of two life threatening conditions, cancer and liver cirrhosis makes the staging challenging. However, there are some staging systems, e.g. the Barcelona staging system for Hepatocellular carcinoma (HCC) [3], that suggest treatment options and management. Whereas diagnosis in early stages gives hope for a curative outcome, the treatment regime for around 80 % [2] of the patients classified as severe stages only gears towards palliation [4]. An intra-arterial radiation approach, radioembolisation (RE) is ubiquitously applied as one of palliative approaches. Although, in general RE shows promising results in intermediate and advanced stage HCC [5], individual treatment outcomes are currently unpredictable. Corresponding stratification criteria are still unclear. We hypothesised that individual radioresistance/radiosensitivity may play a crucial role in treatment response towards RE strongly influencing individual outcomes. Further, HCC represents a highly heterogeneous group of patients which requires patient stratification according to clear criteria for treatment algorithms to be applied individually. Multilevel diagnostic approach (MLDA) is considered helpful to setup optimal predictive and prognostic biomarker panel for individualised application of radioembolisation. Besides comprehensive medical imaging, our MLDA includes non-invasive multi-omics and sub-cellular imaging. Individual patient profiles are expected to give a clue to targeting shifted molecular pathways, individual RE susceptibility, treatment response. Hence, a dysregulation of the detoxification pathway (SOD2/Catalase) might indicate possible adverse effects of RE, and highly increased systemic activities of matrix metalloproteinases indicate an enhanced tumour aggressiveness and provide insights into molecular mechanisms/targets. Consequently, an optimal setup of predictive and prognostic biomarker panels may lead to the changed treatment paradigm from untargeted "treat and wait" to the cost-effective predictive, preventive and personalised approach, improving the life quality and life expectancy of HCC patients. References 1. Akhmetov I, Bubnov RV. Assessing value of innovative molecular diagnostic tests in the concept of predictive, preventive, and personalized medicine.

The focus of this thesis is on the internal and external environments of retail stores, and their... more The focus of this thesis is on the internal and external environments of retail stores, and their contribution to retail branding from marketing and design perspectives. The retail industry in the postwar period and in particular since the 1980s has grown rapidly creating new store formats, new locations and new markets; retail brands have become some of the most powerful in the UK. The retail store now forms a visually engaging, three dimensional material and symbolic environment, where the brand merges with detailed store design. Both marketing and design initiatives have had a significant role in these developments, and consequently informed the distinctive interdisciplinary approach to the research journey. The body of work draws on nine publications, from an initial exploratory paper in 2003 to the final piece of work in 2010. The journey is characterized by its critical engagement with qualitative methodology, and an increasing awareness of the value of visual methods in the field. This contributed to a different understanding of the internal spaces of the store from a consumer perspective and the co-creative possibilities of retail design. As the research journey progressed, the contribution of the store to the retail brand was extended to its place in the external, urban environment. This contributed to understanding the significance of the building to the retail brand, through prestigious new buildings but also the re-use and regeneration of commercial buildings and their meaningful connections with the past. It is in this context that the body of work contributes new knowledge of the relationship between design, branding and experience in retail environments in which the design of the building, both internally and in its local context provide new opportunities to communicate to, and create experiences with consumers.