Marilyn Delong - Academia.edu (original) (raw)

Papers by Marilyn Delong

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Jun 30, 2016

Sustainability in fashion cannot ignore fashion attributes required for the design of rapidly cha... more Sustainability in fashion cannot ignore fashion attributes required for the design of rapidly changing and innovative products. This study examines "Re-Birth Design" development and provides a means to apply academic and industry perspectives to the investigation of ReBirth fashion product development. This study defines "Re-Birth Design" as stock that has been designed and launched through distribution channels, subsequently returned unused, then improved and reborn into a new product for redistribution. This study analyzed specific cases. We selected 100 designs for ReBirth from 11 brands of "K" fashion company in Korea, to be successfully sold in 2014. These cases are used in the analysis and are categorized into design types. As a result of the analysis, "Re-Birth Design" had five levels: Level 1. Changes in supplementary materials such as adding or removing decoration, Level 2. Changes in patterns or materials (changes within the product), Level 3. Partial changes in design (leading to a new design), Level 4. Complete deconstruction and rebirth of the design, and Level 5. Complete deconstruction followed by the use of the design source for a new product that is not a garment. This study analyzed products owned by brands, as well as successful cases of ReBirth designs that reused existing resources, reduced energy consumption, and increased environmental and economic efficiency by recreating new products that could be resold.

Textile-the Journal of Cloth & Culture, Mar 1, 2012

T actile response is explored through recall of subjects for fabric preferences. Shifts in touch ... more T actile response is explored through recall of subjects for fabric preferences. Shifts in touch preference may occur in one's experience and require bringing the touch experience to one's awareness. To investigate such shifts in preference, subjects who were studying to be designers taking an introductory design course were asked in an openended format to describe fabrics they liked to touch. Responses from 123 subjects were analyzed and the three most frequently listed properties they liked to touch were soft, smooth, and warm. Wool was listed by 41 percent as a fabric they disliked touching. Fabrics associated with shifting touch preferences from dislike to like included wool and cotton. Reasons subjects initially disliked a fabric were specific and included attributes of scratchy, rough, and itchy. Fabric combinations that often pleased included soft with warm and smooth with warm. When subjects reported initially liking or disliking a fabric the shift in preference often occurred because of a change in repeated exposure, focus on some features, discovery of new features or new associated experiences. Touch preference shifts were affected by how the fabric would feel on the body, contextual surroundings, and experiences with family. Such an investigation of tactile response and touch preference helps a designer to think about how to optimize user satisfaction with textile products.

Fashion practice, May 4, 2017

Abstract Upcycling used clothing could transform textile waste into raw materials for new fashion... more Abstract Upcycling used clothing could transform textile waste into raw materials for new fashion items. Our research goals were to add a longitudinal element to previous research which engaged female focus group participants in a collaborative upcycling project, to further understand motivations for upcycling used clothing, and to identify common characteristics of those who choose to upcycle. Upcycling behavior of 30 women (mean age 44, 87% Caucasian) was explored through questionnaires, in-depth interviews, and visual analysis. The study also aimed to determine the conditions under which upcycling used clothes might be most successful and to further study potential for a service or business. The findings will have practical implications for those interested in fostering sustainable best practices in clothing and for entrepreneurs to weigh the pros and cons of starting a new upcycling business.

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Jun 1, 2005

PurposeThe objective was to provide research‐based insights from two groups of respondents as to ... more PurposeThe objective was to provide research‐based insights from two groups of respondents as to their perceptions, preferences and desire to purchase Chinese – influenced Western dress.Design/methodology/approachTen images of models in designer clothing were selected that varied in degree of Chinese influence. College students from a US and a Chinese university, numbering 55 and 56 respectively, were asked to respond by ranking each image to discern their perceptions of ethnic influence and their preferences for and desire to purchase each of the ten images. Responses were compared and analyzed.FindingsA conclusion based upon analysis of responses was that degree of Chinese influence was less critical than the aesthetic character of the form itself. Some disagreement occurred in respondent's highest ranked preferences. Regarding preference and desire to purchase, US respondents ranked them similarly, while Chinese students ranked them differently.Research limitations/implicationsThe sample was confined to College students with similar majors in the two countries. Limiting the sample in this way offered control in age and interest, but also limited application of results.Practical implicationsThis study addressed the perceptions, preferences and purchasing desires for dress with Chinese influence in a cross cultural perspective. Respondents in this study preferred effective design of the whole image and not simply a borrowing of disparate ethnic attributes.Originality/valueResults provide a managerial guide for ethnic fashion marketers.

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, Mar 1, 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate whether the differences in visualisation patterns are... more The purpose of this study is to investigate whether the differences in visualisation patterns are related to a viewer's previous training in design appreciation, and whether aesthetic visualisation is trainable in a short term. Forty-three female subjects, consisting of 20 trained and 23 untrained viewers, participated. Twenty fashion images, posed by a male and a female model, were shown on an eye-tracker screen for 10 s each. This study revealed that the trained viewer tended to show longer gaze duration and higher densities of fixations over the image, to be more sensitive to design changes, and to have less random scanning time, than the untrained viewer. Further, this study indicated that repetitive viewing of the same image in a short term was not an effective training mode of aesthetic visualisation.

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Dec 20, 2016

This research explored teenagers' use of handcraft apparel in the United States and South Korea. ... more This research explored teenagers' use of handcraft apparel in the United States and South Korea. Teenagers were selected for a cross national comparison of youth and their emotional attachment to handcraft apparel in terms of: use of handcraft items compared with purchased products; the relationship between the craft user and creator; and the influence of emotional attachment to handcrafts on the friendship and self-esteem of youths. Responses of US and Korean high school and middle school students acknowledged the value of handcrafts. Handcraft items offer a measure of sustainability not offered by clothing destined for the fast-fashion cycle. Items handcrafted by friends and family have considerable value as objects of everyone design as well as emotional value. In this study, we also conclude that the value of handcraft apparel and crafts in everyday creativity may have a positive influence on peer relationships and self-esteem among youth in the two countries. Comparing the two youth groups in this study, we found that US teenagers have a greater tendency to use handcrafted items compared with their Korean counterparts that may be attributed to the wider popularity of handcrafting in US society. US participants reported a significantly longer period of actual use of handcraft items. Although handcraft items are increasingly overlooked in favor of mass-produced fashion products, handcraft apparel can be expected to endure as an alternative product with recognized sustainability, given the perceived importance of handmade craft and apparel made by loved ones.

Research journal of textile and apparel, Feb 1, 2013

This research takes a bottoms-up approach to sustainable practices of designers within one indust... more This research takes a bottoms-up approach to sustainable practices of designers within one industry in a specific locale. In researching sustainability in the apparel industry, one must consider the fashion system in which apparel designers operate. This research examines apparel designers in Minnesota and their perspectives about best practices that will encourage sustainability. Designers from a variety of small to large size businesses are interviewed and the results are analyzed to identify present and future contributions with regards to sustainability in apparel design. Processes that take into account the local context of sustainability enable a shared understanding with potential for mutually acceptable approaches to address the issues.

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Jun 1, 1994

Current apparel production methods grounded in a tradition of master-apprentice training and intu... more Current apparel production methods grounded in a tradition of master-apprentice training and intuition are being challenged by the introduction of Artificial Intelligence. Much of the expert knowledge needed to develop computer systems for the apparel industry is related to visual decisions made to create a garment. In this study, a sensory evaluation methodology was used to determine if visual perceptual differences existed between results of pattern grading methods using traditional and proportional techniques. An expert panel of eleven members evaluated visual effect of images graded across an entire size range. Three sets of images representing apparel on the body were selected to emphasize (1) horizontal proportion, (2) vertical proportion, and (3) proportion of details. Responses of panel members indicated neither traditional nor proportional grading maintained the visual effect referenced in the sample size across the entire size range. The goal of pattern grading needs to be redefined to account for the desired visual effect in a variety of size and body variations.

Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, 2002

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 2001

Home economics research journal, 1979

Perceptual and Motor Skills, Aug 1, 1983

Responses of 30 female observers (college students) to 10 contemporary skirted suits were made on... more Responses of 30 female observers (college students) to 10 contemporary skirted suits were made on repeated exposures. Word pairs were selected to represent evaluative and informational aspects of the stimuli. Response patterns changed more for evaluative word pairs, e.g., Like-Dislike, than for informational word pairs, e.g., Simple-Complex.

Communicating Fashion: Trend Research & Forecasting, 2018

Communicating Fashion offers a holistic view of the interrelationships involved in trend research... more Communicating Fashion offers a holistic view of the interrelationships involved in trend research, including data collection, analysis and reporting, and forecasting what that direction means for design. The book’s primary focus is on the process of observing and collecting desk and field data to understand interrelationships among products, user experience, and contextual factors.

Research journal of textile and apparel, Feb 1, 2015

As media technology is developing, methods to present fashion products and communicate with audie... more As media technology is developing, methods to present fashion products and communicate with audiences are also evolving. Designers and fashion brands are always on the lookout for more effective methods to deliver what designers intend through new products. The purpose of this research is to analyze different ways in which people perceive, cognize, and memorize the digital media of fashion show videos and fashion films in the communication process. Considering the difference in communication methods, this study is based on Shannon's communication model, Foulger's ecological model of the communication process, and Kopec's information management theory. In this research, Chanel's 2010 Cruise collection and fashion film, RememberNow, were used as content stimuli. The results indicate that there are significant differences between fashion shows and fashion films in terms of perception (p< .005), cognition (p< .005), and memorization (p< .005). This research will provide prospective methods for fashion designers and fashion firms to effectively deliver the latest fashion information to their audiences.

Introduction Section One: Experiencing and Responding to Color Seeing Color Ulf Klaren (Universit... more Introduction Section One: Experiencing and Responding to Color Seeing Color Ulf Klaren (University College of Arts, Crafts and Design, Stockholm, Sweden) and Karin Fridell Anter (Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden and University College of Arts, Crafts and Design, Stockholm, Sweden) Color in the Designed Environment Judith Mottram (Nottingham Trent University, UK) and Tom Jeffries (Manchester School of Architecture, Manchester Metropolitan University and the University of Manchester, UK) Color Relationships Cristina Boeri (INDACO Department of Politecnico di Milano, Italy) Color: Organizational Strategies Dennis Puhalla (University of Cincinnati, USA) Section Two: Color in Context, Culture and Traditions The Social Politics of White Kathleen Connellan (University of South Australia, Australia) What Color is Sustainability? Marilyn Delong (University of Minnesota, USA) Gozde Goncu Berk (University of Minnesota, USA) Color and Cultural Identity in Ireland Helena Wulff (Stockholm University, Sweden) Signaling Protection: The Use and Function of Color in Firefighter Clothing Jessica Barker (Iowa State University, USA), Lynn Boorady (Buffalo State College, USA) and Susan Ashdown (Cornell University, USA) Blood Red, Pure White and Soothing Green Jeanne Kisacky (Syracuse University, USA, Cornell University, USA and Binghamton University, USA) Color Continuity and Change in Korean Culture KeySook Geum (Hongik University, Korea) and Hyun Jung (Daegu University, Korea) Exploring the Colors of Turkish Culture Gozde Goncu-Berk (University of Minnesota, USA) The Punk Palette: Subversion Through Color Monica Sklar (University of Minnesota, USA) and Lauren Michel (University of California, USA) Section Three: Markets and Trends Color Forecasting: Seasonal Colors Tracy Diane Cassidy (Manchester Metropolitan University, UK) and Tom Cassidy (University of Leeds, UK) Methodology to Analyze and Predict In-depth Impressions of Color and Design on the Basis of Concept Networks Yukari Nagai (Japan Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Japan) and Georgi V. Georgiev (Japan Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Japan) Color Ambiance in Interiors Nilgun Olgunturk (Bilkent University, Ankara, Turkey) and Halime Demirkan (Bilkent University, Ankara, Turkey) Color The World: Identifying Color Trends in Contemporary City Brands Alex Bitterman (Rochester Institute of Technology, New York, USA) Color and Community Involvement Julia Vallera (Newschool University, New York, USA) Colors and Prototypes: The Significance of the Model's Colors and Textures in Expectations for the Artifact Klaus Madsen (University of Aalborg, Denmark) and Bente Dahl Thomsen (University of Aalborg, Denmark) Color and Computer-Aided Design Rene Van Meeuwen (University of Western Australia, Australia) and Nigel Westbrook (University of Western Australia, Australia) Color as a New Skin: Technology and Personalization Luca Simeone (La Sapienza University and Ateneo Impresa Graduate Business School, Rome, Italy) Index