Mary Cialone - Profile on Academia.edu (original) (raw)

Papers by Mary Cialone

The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) described herein provides guidance ... more The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) described herein provides guidance on coupling the regional circulation model, Advanced Circulation (ADCIRC), with the local circulation model M2D. Coupling of models is an efficient and accurate means of calculating water level and current on a local domain, such as at and around an inlet. This CHETN also serves as a tutorial for coupling the two models within the Surface-Water Modeling System (SMS).

Yaquina Bay, Oregon, Tidal and Wave-Induced Currents Near the Jettied Inlet. Numerical Model Investigation

Lake St. Clair: Storm Wave and Water Level Modeling

Lake Michigan Storm: Wave and Water Level Modeling

Coastal Modeling System (CMS) Users Manuel

The Coastal Modeling System (CMS): A Coastal Processes Software Package

Journal of Coastal Research, Aug 7, 2012

Evolution of Popponesset Beach and Its Effect on Popponesset Bay

Evolution of Popponesset Beach and Its Effects on Popponesset Bay

Popponesset Beach is an approximately 1 -mile-long barrier beach (or spit) fronting Popponesset B... more Popponesset Beach is an approximately 1 -mile-long barrier beach (or spit) fronting Popponesset Bay located on Nantucket Sound in Mashpee, Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Popponesset Spit has experienced dramatic changes in the last 40 years, beginning with a major breach in 1954, which resulted from a series of hurricanes (Carol, Edna, and Hazel). Breaches near Popponesset Island, Little Thatch Island, and Big Thatch Island were observed at various times between 1892 and 1991. The main purpose of the study was to determine the likelihood of a breach of Popponesset Spit and the impact (in terms of water quality, storm protection, and navigation) of breaching and/or slow degradation of the spit on Popponesset Bay. A review of historical information pertaining to the evolution of Popponesset Spit and an analytical/empirical 'desktop' analysis were performed. Breach, Popponesset, Cape cod, Spit, Mashpee, Storm protection. Massachusetts,

Historical Findings on Ebb Shoal Mining

Journal of Coastal Research, Nov 13, 2012

Page 1. Journal of Coastal Research 14 2 537-563 Royal Palm Beach, Florida Spring 1998 Historical... more Page 1. Journal of Coastal Research 14 2 537-563 Royal Palm Beach, Florida Spring 1998 Historical Findings on Ebb Shoal Mining Mary A. Cialone and Donald K. Stauble ... '09w .lww ABSTRACT CIALONE, MA and STAUBLE, DK, 1998. Historical findings on ebb shoal mining. ...

Ocean Engineering, 2010

A critical component of flood protection in some coastal areas is expected to be the potential co... more A critical component of flood protection in some coastal areas is expected to be the potential contribution of wetlands to the lowering of surges as they propagate inland from the coast. Consequently, an accurate method to quantify the effect of wetlands on coastal surge levels is required. The degree to which wetlands attenuate surge is the subject of debate and difficult to assess. The potential of wetlands to reduce storm surge has typically been expressed as a constant attenuation rate, but the relationship is much more complex. A numerical storm surge model was applied to assess the sensitivity of surge response to specified wetland loss. Results suggest that wetlands do have the potential to reduce surges but the magnitude of attenuation is dependent on the surrounding coastal landscape and the strength and duration of the storm forcing. Numerical models that simulate the relevant physical processes can provide valuable information on how to best integrate wetlands into coastal protection plans. However, while the model applied for this study has displayed skill in estimating surges over wetlands, the formulations are missing key processes and model advancements are necessary.

Impacts of Inlet Structures on Channel Location

Coastal Engineering 1996, 1997

ABSTRACT Barnegat Inlet, New Jersey, has undergone a variety of structural changes in an attempt ... more ABSTRACT Barnegat Inlet, New Jersey, has undergone a variety of structural changes in an attempt to provide a navigable channel from bay to ocean. These structures have included shoreline revetments, arrowhead jetties with their crest elevation at mean tide level, a sand dike to better align interior channel flow, a raised impermeable jetty, and now parallel jetties. Each of these structures has had significant influence on inlet hydraulics and sedimentation, which in turn has impacted channel location.

Sediment Dynamics and Profile Interactions: DUCK94

Coastal Engineering 1996, 1997

ABSTRACT Beach profiles and sediment samples were collected on a daily basis along three cross-sh... more ABSTRACT Beach profiles and sediment samples were collected on a daily basis along three cross-shore transect lines during the DUCK94 nearshore experiment lasting for 18 days in October 1994. Conditions ranged from near calm during the first week of the experiment to full storm conditions during the second and third weeks, with a two day initiation of beach recovery at the end of the experiment. The profiles responded with similar elevation change, with little morphologic variability during the calm period. During the storm, the bar migrated seaward 70 to 100 m, but the foreshore exhibited little change. The bar began to migrate shoreward at initiation of recovery. Sediment grain-size distributions vary in the cross-shore direction, with medium size grains on the upper foreshore, coarse gravel deposits on the lower foreshore and progressively finer sands in the offshore direction. After the storm, the foreshore and bar/trough samples were coarser with little change in the nearshore sediment distributions.

Coastal Processes at Sea Bright to Ocean Township, New Jersey. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendix A

ABSTRACT This report describes a study of coastal processes along the Atlantic Coast from Sea Bri... more ABSTRACT This report describes a study of coastal processes along the Atlantic Coast from Sea Bright to Ocean Township. Predictive tools were developed and a data analysis made to assist in evaluation and implementation of comprehensive shore protection plans for this highly utilized stretch of coastline. The study was divided into four broad areas as: 1) deepwater wave climate analysis and nearshore wave refraction; 2) numerical modeling of long-term shoreline change; 3) numerical modeling of storm-induced beach erosion; and 4) development of stage-frequency relations for the back bay and ocean coast. A literature review of previous studies and results of the four tasks are given in Volume I. Volume II contains listings and interpretations of coastal processes data assembled in the study, including data on profiles, shoreline change, sediment sizes, and incident waves. The study represents an integrated attempt to quantitatively evaluate long and short-term coastal processes on a regional scale for use in engineering design. Keywords: Coastal engineering; Sediment transport; Ocean waves; Storms; Beach erosion; Sand transport; Sandy hook; Shoreline change. (edc)

A Numerical Model for Shoaling and Refraction of Third-Order Stokes Waves over an Irregular Bottom

The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, num... more The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, numerical modelers have separated the processes of tidal circulation and wave transformation, but the surf zone and inlet are areas where the interactions are strong and should be numerically simulated to capture the resulting hydrodynamics. This paper describes performance of coupled wave and circulation models for

An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation... more An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation and currents through an inlet entrance. These data support a circulation and wave model for Grays Harbor, Washington, a jettied entrance with a large tidal prism. Both the field data and model results show wave attenuation in the inlet entrance, flood currents strongest on the

The Coastal Modeling System (CMS) is a software package aimed at organizing the Coastal Engineeri... more The Coastal Modeling System (CMS) is a software package aimed at organizing the Coastal Engineering Research Center's larger numerical models and their supporting software into a user-friendly system that is available to all Corps elements having a need to apply the supported modeling technology. Since some of the models share similar input requirements, output capability, and procedural implementation, efforts are made to standardize these portions of the models as much as possible. FORTRAN 77 programming language is used exclusively in the system software to ensure portability of the models and supporting programs to other computer systems. Graphics programs also make use of DISSPLA software. Models selected for inclusion in CMS are well advanced in their development and have been rigorously tested over a wide range of conditions. The models in CMS can be considered tested, reliable, and mature. The numerical models documented here include: SPH, WIFM, RCPWAVE, CLHYD, SHALWV, S...

Cialone, M.A., and Kraus, N.C. (2001). Engineering Study of Inlet Entrance Hydrodynamics: Grays

An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation... more An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation and currents through an inlet entrance. These data support a circulation and wave model for Grays Harbor, Washington, a jettied entrance with a large tidal prism. Both the field data and model results show wave attenuation in the inlet entrance, flood currents strongest on the north side of the inlet, and ebb currents more uniformly distributed. The influence of the tidal current and water level on wave transformation was also examined. Ebb current produces the greatest change at the inlet entrance, increasing wave heights by as much as 0.5-1.5 m. Flood current increases wave height at the seaward end of the entrance due to the ebb shoal redirecting flow offshore, but reduces wave height in the inlet throat. Water level has a minimal impact on wave height in the inlet entrance, but does control wave height in the back bay.

To Appear: Proceedings 28

The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, num... more The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, numerical modelers have separated the processes of tidal circulation and wave transformation, but the surf zone and inlet are areas where the interactions are strong and should be numerically simulated to capture the resulting hydrodynamics. This paper describes performance of coupled wave and circulation models for both an idealized inlet setting and an application for Grays Harbor, Washington, concentrating on the influence of waves on currents. A comparison of tidal current simulations to tidal-pluswave -induced current simulations shows that the interactions create gyres, longshore currents, rip currents, and "shadow zones" of relatively weak currents.

Hurricane Storm Surge and Wave Modeling in Southern Louisiana: A Brief Overview

The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) described herein provides guidance ... more The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) described herein provides guidance on coupling the regional circulation model, Advanced Circulation (ADCIRC), with the local circulation model M2D. Coupling of models is an efficient and accurate means of calculating water level and current on a local domain, such as at and around an inlet. This CHETN also serves as a tutorial for coupling the two models within the Surface-Water Modeling System (SMS).

Yaquina Bay, Oregon, Tidal and Wave-Induced Currents Near the Jettied Inlet. Numerical Model Investigation

Lake St. Clair: Storm Wave and Water Level Modeling

Lake Michigan Storm: Wave and Water Level Modeling

Coastal Modeling System (CMS) Users Manuel

The Coastal Modeling System (CMS): A Coastal Processes Software Package

Journal of Coastal Research, Aug 7, 2012

Evolution of Popponesset Beach and Its Effect on Popponesset Bay

Evolution of Popponesset Beach and Its Effects on Popponesset Bay

Popponesset Beach is an approximately 1 -mile-long barrier beach (or spit) fronting Popponesset B... more Popponesset Beach is an approximately 1 -mile-long barrier beach (or spit) fronting Popponesset Bay located on Nantucket Sound in Mashpee, Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Popponesset Spit has experienced dramatic changes in the last 40 years, beginning with a major breach in 1954, which resulted from a series of hurricanes (Carol, Edna, and Hazel). Breaches near Popponesset Island, Little Thatch Island, and Big Thatch Island were observed at various times between 1892 and 1991. The main purpose of the study was to determine the likelihood of a breach of Popponesset Spit and the impact (in terms of water quality, storm protection, and navigation) of breaching and/or slow degradation of the spit on Popponesset Bay. A review of historical information pertaining to the evolution of Popponesset Spit and an analytical/empirical 'desktop' analysis were performed. Breach, Popponesset, Cape cod, Spit, Mashpee, Storm protection. Massachusetts,

Historical Findings on Ebb Shoal Mining

Journal of Coastal Research, Nov 13, 2012

Page 1. Journal of Coastal Research 14 2 537-563 Royal Palm Beach, Florida Spring 1998 Historical... more Page 1. Journal of Coastal Research 14 2 537-563 Royal Palm Beach, Florida Spring 1998 Historical Findings on Ebb Shoal Mining Mary A. Cialone and Donald K. Stauble ... '09w .lww ABSTRACT CIALONE, MA and STAUBLE, DK, 1998. Historical findings on ebb shoal mining. ...

Ocean Engineering, 2010

A critical component of flood protection in some coastal areas is expected to be the potential co... more A critical component of flood protection in some coastal areas is expected to be the potential contribution of wetlands to the lowering of surges as they propagate inland from the coast. Consequently, an accurate method to quantify the effect of wetlands on coastal surge levels is required. The degree to which wetlands attenuate surge is the subject of debate and difficult to assess. The potential of wetlands to reduce storm surge has typically been expressed as a constant attenuation rate, but the relationship is much more complex. A numerical storm surge model was applied to assess the sensitivity of surge response to specified wetland loss. Results suggest that wetlands do have the potential to reduce surges but the magnitude of attenuation is dependent on the surrounding coastal landscape and the strength and duration of the storm forcing. Numerical models that simulate the relevant physical processes can provide valuable information on how to best integrate wetlands into coastal protection plans. However, while the model applied for this study has displayed skill in estimating surges over wetlands, the formulations are missing key processes and model advancements are necessary.

Impacts of Inlet Structures on Channel Location

Coastal Engineering 1996, 1997

ABSTRACT Barnegat Inlet, New Jersey, has undergone a variety of structural changes in an attempt ... more ABSTRACT Barnegat Inlet, New Jersey, has undergone a variety of structural changes in an attempt to provide a navigable channel from bay to ocean. These structures have included shoreline revetments, arrowhead jetties with their crest elevation at mean tide level, a sand dike to better align interior channel flow, a raised impermeable jetty, and now parallel jetties. Each of these structures has had significant influence on inlet hydraulics and sedimentation, which in turn has impacted channel location.

Sediment Dynamics and Profile Interactions: DUCK94

Coastal Engineering 1996, 1997

ABSTRACT Beach profiles and sediment samples were collected on a daily basis along three cross-sh... more ABSTRACT Beach profiles and sediment samples were collected on a daily basis along three cross-shore transect lines during the DUCK94 nearshore experiment lasting for 18 days in October 1994. Conditions ranged from near calm during the first week of the experiment to full storm conditions during the second and third weeks, with a two day initiation of beach recovery at the end of the experiment. The profiles responded with similar elevation change, with little morphologic variability during the calm period. During the storm, the bar migrated seaward 70 to 100 m, but the foreshore exhibited little change. The bar began to migrate shoreward at initiation of recovery. Sediment grain-size distributions vary in the cross-shore direction, with medium size grains on the upper foreshore, coarse gravel deposits on the lower foreshore and progressively finer sands in the offshore direction. After the storm, the foreshore and bar/trough samples were coarser with little change in the nearshore sediment distributions.

Coastal Processes at Sea Bright to Ocean Township, New Jersey. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendix A

ABSTRACT This report describes a study of coastal processes along the Atlantic Coast from Sea Bri... more ABSTRACT This report describes a study of coastal processes along the Atlantic Coast from Sea Bright to Ocean Township. Predictive tools were developed and a data analysis made to assist in evaluation and implementation of comprehensive shore protection plans for this highly utilized stretch of coastline. The study was divided into four broad areas as: 1) deepwater wave climate analysis and nearshore wave refraction; 2) numerical modeling of long-term shoreline change; 3) numerical modeling of storm-induced beach erosion; and 4) development of stage-frequency relations for the back bay and ocean coast. A literature review of previous studies and results of the four tasks are given in Volume I. Volume II contains listings and interpretations of coastal processes data assembled in the study, including data on profiles, shoreline change, sediment sizes, and incident waves. The study represents an integrated attempt to quantitatively evaluate long and short-term coastal processes on a regional scale for use in engineering design. Keywords: Coastal engineering; Sediment transport; Ocean waves; Storms; Beach erosion; Sand transport; Sandy hook; Shoreline change. (edc)

A Numerical Model for Shoaling and Refraction of Third-Order Stokes Waves over an Irregular Bottom

The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, num... more The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, numerical modelers have separated the processes of tidal circulation and wave transformation, but the surf zone and inlet are areas where the interactions are strong and should be numerically simulated to capture the resulting hydrodynamics. This paper describes performance of coupled wave and circulation models for

An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation... more An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation and currents through an inlet entrance. These data support a circulation and wave model for Grays Harbor, Washington, a jettied entrance with a large tidal prism. Both the field data and model results show wave attenuation in the inlet entrance, flood currents strongest on the

The Coastal Modeling System (CMS) is a software package aimed at organizing the Coastal Engineeri... more The Coastal Modeling System (CMS) is a software package aimed at organizing the Coastal Engineering Research Center's larger numerical models and their supporting software into a user-friendly system that is available to all Corps elements having a need to apply the supported modeling technology. Since some of the models share similar input requirements, output capability, and procedural implementation, efforts are made to standardize these portions of the models as much as possible. FORTRAN 77 programming language is used exclusively in the system software to ensure portability of the models and supporting programs to other computer systems. Graphics programs also make use of DISSPLA software. Models selected for inclusion in CMS are well advanced in their development and have been rigorously tested over a wide range of conditions. The models in CMS can be considered tested, reliable, and mature. The numerical models documented here include: SPH, WIFM, RCPWAVE, CLHYD, SHALWV, S...

Cialone, M.A., and Kraus, N.C. (2001). Engineering Study of Inlet Entrance Hydrodynamics: Grays

An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation... more An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation and currents through an inlet entrance. These data support a circulation and wave model for Grays Harbor, Washington, a jettied entrance with a large tidal prism. Both the field data and model results show wave attenuation in the inlet entrance, flood currents strongest on the north side of the inlet, and ebb currents more uniformly distributed. The influence of the tidal current and water level on wave transformation was also examined. Ebb current produces the greatest change at the inlet entrance, increasing wave heights by as much as 0.5-1.5 m. Flood current increases wave height at the seaward end of the entrance due to the ebb shoal redirecting flow offshore, but reduces wave height in the inlet throat. Water level has a minimal impact on wave height in the inlet entrance, but does control wave height in the back bay.

To Appear: Proceedings 28

The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, num... more The interaction of waves and currents at an inlet entrance can be significant. Traditionally, numerical modelers have separated the processes of tidal circulation and wave transformation, but the surf zone and inlet are areas where the interactions are strong and should be numerically simulated to capture the resulting hydrodynamics. This paper describes performance of coupled wave and circulation models for both an idealized inlet setting and an application for Grays Harbor, Washington, concentrating on the influence of waves on currents. A comparison of tidal current simulations to tidal-pluswave -induced current simulations shows that the interactions create gyres, longshore currents, rip currents, and "shadow zones" of relatively weak currents.

Hurricane Storm Surge and Wave Modeling in Southern Louisiana: A Brief Overview