Morten Valner S Grymer-Hansen | University of Copenhagen (original) (raw)
Articles by Morten Valner S Grymer-Hansen
Dragtjournalen, 2024
The rejection of luxury and fashion in Denmark-Norway during the 18th century, along with similar... more The rejection of luxury and fashion in Denmark-Norway during the 18th century, along with similar sentiments across Europe, has been widely acknowledged and described as a form of anti-fashion. This article focuses on a variant of anti-fashion identified as ”health and fitness naturalism,” which focuses on the negative impact of fashion on health. Using the journal Sundhedstidende, published from 1778 to 1781 by the physician and professor Johann Clemens Tode, this study examines how fashion was critiqued from a health perspective in the 18th century.
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Nordic Journal of Educational History, 2024
This article explores the role of the Drawing School for Women (Tegneskolen for Kvinder) in the d... more This article explores the role of the Drawing School for Women (Tegneskolen for Kvinder) in the development of textile research as a field of knowledge, as well as its contribution to women’s education and social status in Denmark. Through an examination of the lives and work of early textile researchers associated with the Drawing School for Women, the article first considers the emancipatory potential of knowledge in relation to the professionalization of textile crafts. It then sheds light on the ideals and potentials expressed by the advocates of textile research – as well as how, and to what extent, these were realised. Specifically, it suggests a close relationship between textile research, women’s emancipation, and Danish nationalism. It concludes that the proponents of textile research were successful in making women’s textile craft – and the study of it – a matter of national pride and interest, furthering the opportunities for women in the field.
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Archaeological Textiles Review No. 63, 2022
The aim of this article is to shed light on the research and travels of the pioneering Danish tex... more The aim of this article is to shed light on the research and travels of the pioneering Danish textile researcher Margrethe Hald regarding the rare and ancient warping technique known as ‘tubular loom’. Retracing Hald’s steps on her quest for the tubular loom from the study of Danish bog finds over Egyptian textile remains to surviving weaving traditions in Syria and South America. Hald’s method of combining archaeology, ethnology, textile craft, and art history in her research created new understandings of the past and present textile traditions and paved the way for mod-ern interdisciplinary research. Through revisiting Hald’s published and unpublished work on the subject, as well as letters and notes, the article demonstrates how archival studies can heighten our understanding of the work carried out by early textile researchers.
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Dragtjournalen, 2021
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Archaeological Textiles Review No. 62, 2021
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Archaeological Textiles Review 62, 2020
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Book Chapters by Morten Valner S Grymer-Hansen
The Common Thread: Collected Essays in Honour of Eva Andersson Strand, 2024
In the 1930s, two grandes dames of textile research, Agnes Geijer and Margrethe Hald, engaged in ... more In the 1930s, two grandes dames of textile research, Agnes Geijer and Margrethe Hald, engaged in a discourse, both private and public, on the correct terms for spinning directions at a time when little or no consensus existed on the matter either in the industry or in academics. The debate is the first evidence of contact between the two scholars, who would go on to become close colleagues and friends - and co-editors of the common Nordic textile vocabulary Nordisk Textilteknisk Terminologi (NTT) alongside Marta Hoffmann and Elisabeth Strömberg. This article revisits this debate that took place at a seminal point in the development of textile tecnical terminology based on published and unpublished material. The article will show how the two scholars each argued from positions shaped by their unique backgrounds, how the industry and academic terms evolved simultaneously and affected each other as well as the later NTT publications, and how their positions were ultimately joined together by later vocabularies.
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Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia. Anthology of COST Action "CA 19131 – EuroWeb", 2024
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Archaeological Puzzles in a Museum: Egyptian Fabrics from the 1st Millennium AD at the National Museum of Denmark (ed. Maria Mossakowska-Gaubert), 2023
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Amager: 500 års hollænderhistorie (red. Søren Mentz), 2021
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Papers by Morten Valner S Grymer-Hansen
Språk i Norden / Sprog i Norden, 2024
This article examines the work of Terminologicentralen in Denmark 1940 1960, especially the publi... more This article examines the work of Terminologicentralen in Denmark 1940
1960, especially the publications of the committee for textile terminology from the 1950’s and its historical context, as well as how these terminologies may be digitised. Furthermore, the publications are related to additional Nordic textile technical terminologies of the period.
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Begreppsarbete och informationshantering (NORDTERM 22), 2021
The Centre for Textile Research (CTR) at the Saxo Institute of the University of Copenhagen has ... more The Centre for Textile Research (CTR) at the Saxo Institute of the University of Copenhagen has now digitized the archive of pioneer textile researcher Margrethe Hald with generous support from Agnes Geijers Textile Research Foundation. CTR was given the unique material by Hald’s family which is now available for study at: Introduction to the Margrethe Hald Archive – University of Copenhagen (ku.dk)
The CTR-team has discovered that there is much more to Hald’s story than previously thought, including a large quantity of unique material now at the National Museum of Denmark and of the Danish National Archives, which has never been researched.
The Hald archive provides evidence of work on international terminology to agree multilingual vocabularies of textiles and weaving from the 20th century – mainly for the Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens (CIETA), which is now available as online vocabularies (www.cieta.fr). The Nordic contributions to this are currently available and searchable at (https://historicaltextiles.org./dictionary). The recognition of a need for a more systematic approach to weaving concepts in the CIETA terminology work has led to a plan for a new conceptual analysis aimed at aligning it with the work of textilnet (see www.textilnet.dk).
A collaboration between Hald, Agnes Geijer and other Nordic women textile researchers was established in the 1930s. It included Marta Hoffmann in Norway, Toini-Inkeri Kaukonen in Finland,and Elsa E. Gudjonsson in Iceland.
Correspondence between Hald and Geijer illustrates the systematic approach they took to the challenge of collecting and conceptualising weaving terminology more than 30 years before the first publication of the CIETA vocabulary Nordisk Tekstilteknisk Terminologi in 1967, and the successs of the subsequent Nordic versions (NTT) in 1974 and 1979. Exploring the unique position of the ground-breaking terminological work done by a network of women scholars from the Nordic countries help to understand and appreciate their important contributions to the field. They were working within a field that was slowly coming into its own – and that was uniquely dominated by the second generation of women in academic life. Across the decades, they shared their ideas and their lives through letters, postcards, and gifts of books, and nurtured friendships grounded in scholarships and a shared experience as women academics.
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Master of History (thesis), 2019
This thesis considers the historiography of women within the field of bourgeois and 18th century ... more This thesis considers the historiography of women within the field of bourgeois and 18th century history as a reproduction of male ideals of womanhood based mainly on prescriptive literature of the time. Rather than trying to find the real ideals or the real praxis of womanhood in the 18th century, this thesis uses three memoirs of bourgeois women, who lived in Copenhagen in the late 18th centu-ry, to show three distinct lives: Dorothea Biehl’s Mit ubetydelige Levnets Løb, Friederike Brun’s Wahrheit aus Morgenträumen & Idas ästhetische Entwickelung, and Sophie Thalbitzer’s Mine Bekiendelser. Through a close reading of the material based on a discourse analytical and gender constructivist framework the author concludes that no singular way of being woman existed at the time. Women were individuals, and not simply a homogenous and marginalized group.
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Book Reviews by Morten Valner S Grymer-Hansen
Historisk Tidsskrift 121(1), 2021
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Dragtjournalen, 2024
The rejection of luxury and fashion in Denmark-Norway during the 18th century, along with similar... more The rejection of luxury and fashion in Denmark-Norway during the 18th century, along with similar sentiments across Europe, has been widely acknowledged and described as a form of anti-fashion. This article focuses on a variant of anti-fashion identified as ”health and fitness naturalism,” which focuses on the negative impact of fashion on health. Using the journal Sundhedstidende, published from 1778 to 1781 by the physician and professor Johann Clemens Tode, this study examines how fashion was critiqued from a health perspective in the 18th century.
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Nordic Journal of Educational History, 2024
This article explores the role of the Drawing School for Women (Tegneskolen for Kvinder) in the d... more This article explores the role of the Drawing School for Women (Tegneskolen for Kvinder) in the development of textile research as a field of knowledge, as well as its contribution to women’s education and social status in Denmark. Through an examination of the lives and work of early textile researchers associated with the Drawing School for Women, the article first considers the emancipatory potential of knowledge in relation to the professionalization of textile crafts. It then sheds light on the ideals and potentials expressed by the advocates of textile research – as well as how, and to what extent, these were realised. Specifically, it suggests a close relationship between textile research, women’s emancipation, and Danish nationalism. It concludes that the proponents of textile research were successful in making women’s textile craft – and the study of it – a matter of national pride and interest, furthering the opportunities for women in the field.
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Archaeological Textiles Review No. 63, 2022
The aim of this article is to shed light on the research and travels of the pioneering Danish tex... more The aim of this article is to shed light on the research and travels of the pioneering Danish textile researcher Margrethe Hald regarding the rare and ancient warping technique known as ‘tubular loom’. Retracing Hald’s steps on her quest for the tubular loom from the study of Danish bog finds over Egyptian textile remains to surviving weaving traditions in Syria and South America. Hald’s method of combining archaeology, ethnology, textile craft, and art history in her research created new understandings of the past and present textile traditions and paved the way for mod-ern interdisciplinary research. Through revisiting Hald’s published and unpublished work on the subject, as well as letters and notes, the article demonstrates how archival studies can heighten our understanding of the work carried out by early textile researchers.
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Dragtjournalen, 2021
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Archaeological Textiles Review No. 62, 2021
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Archaeological Textiles Review 62, 2020
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
The Common Thread: Collected Essays in Honour of Eva Andersson Strand, 2024
In the 1930s, two grandes dames of textile research, Agnes Geijer and Margrethe Hald, engaged in ... more In the 1930s, two grandes dames of textile research, Agnes Geijer and Margrethe Hald, engaged in a discourse, both private and public, on the correct terms for spinning directions at a time when little or no consensus existed on the matter either in the industry or in academics. The debate is the first evidence of contact between the two scholars, who would go on to become close colleagues and friends - and co-editors of the common Nordic textile vocabulary Nordisk Textilteknisk Terminologi (NTT) alongside Marta Hoffmann and Elisabeth Strömberg. This article revisits this debate that took place at a seminal point in the development of textile tecnical terminology based on published and unpublished material. The article will show how the two scholars each argued from positions shaped by their unique backgrounds, how the industry and academic terms evolved simultaneously and affected each other as well as the later NTT publications, and how their positions were ultimately joined together by later vocabularies.
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia. Anthology of COST Action "CA 19131 – EuroWeb", 2024
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Archaeological Puzzles in a Museum: Egyptian Fabrics from the 1st Millennium AD at the National Museum of Denmark (ed. Maria Mossakowska-Gaubert), 2023
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Amager: 500 års hollænderhistorie (red. Søren Mentz), 2021
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Språk i Norden / Sprog i Norden, 2024
This article examines the work of Terminologicentralen in Denmark 1940 1960, especially the publi... more This article examines the work of Terminologicentralen in Denmark 1940
1960, especially the publications of the committee for textile terminology from the 1950’s and its historical context, as well as how these terminologies may be digitised. Furthermore, the publications are related to additional Nordic textile technical terminologies of the period.
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Begreppsarbete och informationshantering (NORDTERM 22), 2021
The Centre for Textile Research (CTR) at the Saxo Institute of the University of Copenhagen has ... more The Centre for Textile Research (CTR) at the Saxo Institute of the University of Copenhagen has now digitized the archive of pioneer textile researcher Margrethe Hald with generous support from Agnes Geijers Textile Research Foundation. CTR was given the unique material by Hald’s family which is now available for study at: Introduction to the Margrethe Hald Archive – University of Copenhagen (ku.dk)
The CTR-team has discovered that there is much more to Hald’s story than previously thought, including a large quantity of unique material now at the National Museum of Denmark and of the Danish National Archives, which has never been researched.
The Hald archive provides evidence of work on international terminology to agree multilingual vocabularies of textiles and weaving from the 20th century – mainly for the Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens (CIETA), which is now available as online vocabularies (www.cieta.fr). The Nordic contributions to this are currently available and searchable at (https://historicaltextiles.org./dictionary). The recognition of a need for a more systematic approach to weaving concepts in the CIETA terminology work has led to a plan for a new conceptual analysis aimed at aligning it with the work of textilnet (see www.textilnet.dk).
A collaboration between Hald, Agnes Geijer and other Nordic women textile researchers was established in the 1930s. It included Marta Hoffmann in Norway, Toini-Inkeri Kaukonen in Finland,and Elsa E. Gudjonsson in Iceland.
Correspondence between Hald and Geijer illustrates the systematic approach they took to the challenge of collecting and conceptualising weaving terminology more than 30 years before the first publication of the CIETA vocabulary Nordisk Tekstilteknisk Terminologi in 1967, and the successs of the subsequent Nordic versions (NTT) in 1974 and 1979. Exploring the unique position of the ground-breaking terminological work done by a network of women scholars from the Nordic countries help to understand and appreciate their important contributions to the field. They were working within a field that was slowly coming into its own – and that was uniquely dominated by the second generation of women in academic life. Across the decades, they shared their ideas and their lives through letters, postcards, and gifts of books, and nurtured friendships grounded in scholarships and a shared experience as women academics.
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact
Master of History (thesis), 2019
This thesis considers the historiography of women within the field of bourgeois and 18th century ... more This thesis considers the historiography of women within the field of bourgeois and 18th century history as a reproduction of male ideals of womanhood based mainly on prescriptive literature of the time. Rather than trying to find the real ideals or the real praxis of womanhood in the 18th century, this thesis uses three memoirs of bourgeois women, who lived in Copenhagen in the late 18th centu-ry, to show three distinct lives: Dorothea Biehl’s Mit ubetydelige Levnets Løb, Friederike Brun’s Wahrheit aus Morgenträumen & Idas ästhetische Entwickelung, and Sophie Thalbitzer’s Mine Bekiendelser. Through a close reading of the material based on a discourse analytical and gender constructivist framework the author concludes that no singular way of being woman existed at the time. Women were individuals, and not simply a homogenous and marginalized group.
Bookmarks Related papers MentionsView impact