Jess Berry | Monash University (original) (raw)

Papers by Jess Berry

BRILL eBooks, 2013

... Vol. 37, No.2, 2005, pp.223-227 Rodic, Y Facehunter, Thames & Hudson, London, 2010. Smedl... more ... Vol. 37, No.2, 2005, pp.223-227 Rodic, Y Facehunter, Thames & Hudson, London, 2010. Smedley ... Boston, 2000. Dr Jess Berry is Lecturer in Art and Design History and Theory, Queensland College of Art, Griffith University, Australia.

Intellect Books, Jul 15, 2018

UCL Press eBooks, May 25, 2023

Routledge eBooks, Mar 22, 2022

Moreland City Council, 2020

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion, 2014

This article considers the male undershirt within discourses of distinctive Australian national d... more This article considers the male undershirt within discourses of distinctive Australian national dress styles, bush wear and swimwear. Through the case study of Chesty Bonds advertisements, this article will argue that the undershirt became a symbol of strength, virility, heroicism and mateship during the 1940s and 1950s. In aligning the Chesty Bond character with iconic Australian heroic types - the surf lifesaver and the bushman - advertisers were able to draw on mythologies of masculine cultural identity to promote the undershirt as a staple of the hegemonic male wardrobe. Through an analysis of the Chesty Bond comic-strip advertisements, I will argue that the athletic undershirt contributed to discourses of national identity in which the white male was dominant, and women and non-Anglo-Celtic men were marginalized, seen as being outside the Australian archetype.

Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 2012

Jess Berry is lecturer in Art Theory at the Queensland College of Art, Griffith University, Austr... more Jess Berry is lecturer in Art Theory at the Queensland College of Art, Griffith University, Australia. Her research interests include fashion and new media, fashion history and theory, and visual culture and consumerism. j.berry@griffith.edu.au Volume 10: edited by Joanne B. Eicher, University of Minnesota, USA. Assistant Editor: Phyllis G. Tortora, Queens College, City University of New York, USA

Journal of Contemporary History, 2011

ultimately, in Anglophone countries. President Wilson’s crucial role in formulating the terms is ... more ultimately, in Anglophone countries. President Wilson’s crucial role in formulating the terms is discussed, as is the unravelling of peace during the interwar period. In the final session, Jay Winter and Robert Wohl trace the cultural legacy and memory of the war. The question of whether industrial combat engendered a new ‘ironic’ mindset, forms of commemoration and the role of twentieth-century warfare in the recent ‘memory boom’, an upsurge of popular interest in family and national history, are all explored. A masterly epilogue, written by Hew Strachan, draws together the book’s key themes by suggesting how transnational methodology can further understanding of the war as a global conflict. This volume succeeds in presenting recent transnational historical research on the first world war in an easily accessible form. Although little in the debates will surprise those already well-acquainted with the literature, it offers a useful introduction into some major areas of recent historiographical controversy, as well as valuable insights into how academic historians work. Ironically, however, it also reveals how distant any truly transnational understanding of the 1914–18 conflict remains. While the speakers have much to say about the Western Front and Britain, France, Germany and the United States, other belligerents and theatres, especially the crucial Eastern Front, where research is now beginning, receive comparatively little attention. There is still much work to be done.

The development of information technology and its effect on the fashion industry is still to be q... more The development of information technology and its effect on the fashion industry is still to be quantified. While it is evident that technological change alters the way we experience the world it is also clear that these changes are eventually incorporated into the conventions of everyday life. This appears increasingly true of Web 2.0, which is characterised by increased interactivity, file sharing and social networking (Lindgren 2007). Web 2.0 offers new forums for watching, discussing, promoting, selling and consuming fashion brands. Of particular significance to the fashion industry is the impact of weblogs, or blogs, on the way fashion is produced and consumed (Abrams 2009 & Wilson 2009). Blogs are a frequently updated personal journal made available on the Internet. Increasingly, street style blogs such as The Sartorialist and Facehunter establish what is considered fashionable within globalised networks. In understanding the role of blogs as arbiters of style this paper will ...

Post-war fashions of the 1940s and 1950s are frequently regarded as overtly feminine , signifying... more Post-war fashions of the 1940s and 1950s are frequently regarded as overtly feminine , signifying a return to traditional gender roles. In particular, Christian Di01·'s 'New Look' of 194 7 and its subsequent imitators symbolically represented feminine virtues of constraint and compliance due to the structural design of garments that stylised the female body in an hourglass silhouette redolent of the nineteenth century. In part, fashion photographers, including Ceci I Beaton and Richard A vedon in the late 1940s, contributed to the prevailing mythology of the New Look, whose studio-based images of the style aimed to inspire luxurious and aristocratic fantasies of feminine glamour. However, representations of this style are often contradictory. Specifically, the article argues that an alternate image of the New Look and associated fashions was also present during this era, where the backdrop of the city that featured in the photographs of Norman Parkinson, Willy Maywald, a...

Contentious Cities Contentious Cities offers unique interdisciplinary approaches to understanding... more Contentious Cities Contentious Cities offers unique interdisciplinary approaches to understanding gendered spatial equity in the urban environment. Positioning design as a central component in how cities produce, construct, represent, and materialise gendered spatial practices, it brings together practice and theory to critique, question, and enable solutions that challenge the root causes of gender inequalities in cities. Through a rich array of case studies, practice-led interventions, and historical and theoretical perspectives, it examines important issues that affect the ways in which women, and people of diverse gender and sexual identities experience and participate in cities. Thematically organised, it considers problems of street harassment, heterosexualisation, and equity in access and mobility, together with modes of segregation, isolation, and discrimination, as well as processes of resistance, intervention, and agency. Grounded in feminist and queer methods of analysis, this book offers new insights regarding the representation of cities, the lived experience of cities, and how design tactics and approaches might affect the ways cities shape and regulate how women and people of diverse gender and sexual identities inhabit, occupy, and move through the city. An examination of the ways in which design might shift toward safer and more inclusive cities, Contentious Cities will appeal to scholars of sociology, gender studies, and urban studies, as well as those working in the fields of urban planning and design.

Compelling stories of romance, drama, mystery and suspense have been constructed around clothing,... more Compelling stories of romance, drama, mystery and suspense have been constructed around clothing, providing the fashion object with its mythic and symbolic quotient. In particular, contemporary fashion photography and film have cast garments as characters - portraying these objects in roles that evoke identification and desire in the viewer. In comparing still fashion photography with the short fashion film this paper will consider how fashion fantasy is constructed through spatial and temporal narrative structures. Further, this paper will argue that the convergence of still and motion images in hybrid fashion media forms offer an alternate experience that subverts clothing as character and instead frames the garment as the unfolding action. With the narrative turn in fashion creating persuasive and desirable fashion scenarios, it is no surprise that the glamour and melodrama of the cinema has been taken up as an aesthetic device by contemporary fashion photography. Throughout the ...

Fashion advertisements and editorials have developed compelling stories of romance, mystery and g... more Fashion advertisements and editorials have developed compelling stories of romance, mystery and glamour around clothing, which highlights the importance of narrative in the representation of dress. In the quest for an ever-more spectacular fashion image, the primacy of fashion photography in mediating that image has recently been challenged by the phenomenon of the short fashion film. This new commercial medium has persuasively extended the narrative possibilities of dress through cinematic convention and self-reflexive referencing. This paper considers and analyses several examples of the short fashion film to argue that two distinct formats have emerged within this burgeoning genre. In what I term ‘fashion as character’ exclusive fashion brands employ big budgets, renowned directors and glamorous celebrities to create extended advertisements that cast the fashion object as a central protagonist. In ‘fashion as action’ open-ended scenarios are positioned as a form of artistic cultu...