Archi Banerjee | National Institute Of Fashion Technology (original) (raw)

Papers by Archi Banerjee

The weaving of handlooms as an industry in our country has a long history. In vastly spread areas... more The weaving of handlooms as an industry in our country has a long history. In vastly spread areas of the country, like Punjab in the north, Maharashtra, Gujarat in the west, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh in the south and West Bengal and Assam in the east handlooms are the second largest employer in the country following agriculture. Cotton fabrics spun by Bengali weavers have become a legend worldwide for their fine textures and lightness. Known as muslin or mulmul the featherweight textiles were celebrated in the international market as the ‘woven wind’ and the ‘wonder gossamer’.
The marvel of muslins and of the Dhakai Jamdani (needle embroidery), however, ended in the 18th century with the British seizing control of Bengal under the East India Company. It is said that to protect the interests of the textile mills of Manchester, the muslin weavers of Dhaka were persecuted and coerced to stop weaving. The art-heritage of fine weaving so remained crippled for nearly 200 years.
However, with the departure of the British, many skilled weavers of Dhaka gradually settled in West Bengal around Fulia in Nadia district, Shantipur of Nadia and Ambika Kalna of Burdwan, all traditionally renowned centres for hand-woven fabrics. Encouraged with government aid and other incentives, these talented weavers soon revived their ancestral occupation and the art of exquisite weaving once again flourished.
Like agriculture, handlooms have been saddled with a very high degree of problems not the least of which includes resistance to change by the workers, exploitation by middlemen and Governmental apathy. However, unlike agriculture, these problems have never been highlighted much and the fate of weavers is left pretty much to themselves. This paper looks at the present condition of the handloom industry in Fulia cluster of West Bengal, roughly an area of 1000 sq kms. where a 100,000 strong community of handloom workers reside.

The weaving of handlooms as an industry in our country has a long history. In vastly spread areas... more The weaving of handlooms as an industry in our country has a long history. In vastly spread areas of the country, like Punjab in the north, Maharashtra, Gujarat in the west, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh in the south and West Bengal and Assam in the east handlooms are the second largest employer in the country following agriculture. Cotton fabrics spun by Bengali weavers have become a legend worldwide for their fine textures and lightness. Known as muslin or mulmul the featherweight textiles were celebrated in the international market as the ‘woven wind’ and the ‘wonder gossamer’.
The marvel of muslins and of the Dhakai Jamdani (needle embroidery), however, ended in the 18th century with the British seizing control of Bengal under the East India Company. It is said that to protect the interests of the textile mills of Manchester, the muslin weavers of Dhaka were persecuted and coerced to stop weaving. The art-heritage of fine weaving so remained crippled for nearly 200 years.
However, with the departure of the British, many skilled weavers of Dhaka gradually settled in West Bengal around Fulia in Nadia district, Shantipur of Nadia and Ambika Kalna of Burdwan, all traditionally renowned centres for hand-woven fabrics. Encouraged with government aid and other incentives, these talented weavers soon revived their ancestral occupation and the art of exquisite weaving once again flourished.
Like agriculture, handlooms have been saddled with a very high degree of problems not the least of which includes resistance to change by the workers, exploitation by middlemen and Governmental apathy. However, unlike agriculture, these problems have never been highlighted much and the fate of weavers is left pretty much to themselves. This paper looks at the present condition of the handloom industry in Fulia cluster of West Bengal, roughly an area of 1000 sq kms. where a 100,000 strong community of handloom workers reside.