My Hunt for a Just-Tight-Enough Black Turtleneck (original) (raw)

By ,the updates coordinator at the Strategist. She writes about fashion and beauty. Prior, she was a fact-checker at New York.

Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photos: Najwa Jamal

I didn’t realize my wardrobe was lacking a proper turtleneck until last October when, wearing the single one to my name, I felt the early gusts of winter on my exposed wrists and midriff. I had purchased it over seven years ago during a Zara Black Friday spree, and it wasn’t particularly good. It had stood the test of time but not fit, function, or taste, and I spent most of the day cold and entirely annoyed, twisting and tugging at its hem and sleeves. I threw it away that night and have been searching for an anatomically and sartorially perfect turtleneck ever since.

Specifically, I wanted a perfect black turtleneck. It’s a winter staple you can wear anywhere in a pinch, whether to dinner, the office, or a date — “the best sort of basic,” as our fashion writer, Ambar Pardilla, says. It’s sleeker than a crewneck and exudes a certain kind of moodiness that a boatneck or V-neck can’t achieve. Of course, as Pardilla notes, many people have many, many opinions about what makes a perfect black turtleneck, and I have plenty of my own.

First is length: I wanted the bodice to be hip length and the sleeves long enough to almost cover my hands; I don’t want to feel nippy winds once it’s on. Next, fit: I wanted something very slim fitting, stretchy, and on the thinner side, closer to a T-shirt than a sweater. It needed to be warm enough to be worn on its own under wool coats (my primary mode) but thin enough to be layered, too.

Of utmost importance was the collar. I wanted a collar that either cleanly folded inward or outward, with no excessive fabric, or that fit flush and high enough on the neck that it didn’t need folding. That requires just the right tightness and height — not awkwardly loose or so overly tight it yanks out my earrings and destroys my makeup just trying to put it on.

And as is always my preference, I was looking for something composed entirely or largely of natural fibers like cotton, wool, silk, and cashmere — all for under $150, but the more affordable, the better. I tried 12 styles from ten different brands. Here’s what I liked best. (Note: I’m five-seven and typically wear a size small. I sized down to an extra-small for almost half of these and noted where below.)

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I was delighted at the prospect of a 29 percent wool top (the highest wool composition of any top I tried), but nearly everything about this turtleneck was a tad awkward. I did like its length (hip-length bodice, sleeves that covered my hands) and color (inky and opaque). But the collar was oddly tight compared to the rest of the slim, stretchy bodice, withfar too much fabric that resulted in a chunky-looking neckline. Fabric abounded and pooled in other places, too, with some especially unflattering gaping near my underarms.

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J.Crew turtlenecks have been featured in many a Strategist guide, and the Feather Jersey (the newest version of the brand’s popular “tissue” turtleneck style) has been one of Pardilla’s best black turtleneck picks for years. This top truly is featherweight as the name suggests, with an almost crêpey cotton feel. It’s made of 100 percent cotton and is a steal at 45,especiallysinceit’softenonsaleforaslowas45, especially since it’s often on sale for as low as 45,especiallysinceit’softenonsaleforaslowas20. But despite sizing down to an extra-small, the top was still loose in some places (underneath my chest and through my torso in particular). My biggest qualm was with the collar. Whether left unfolded or folded down, the neckline simply did not sit well. Left upright, it pooled in a clunky way; and folded over, it gaped, too short to cover the entirety of my neck.

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Etam’s Lyocel and 11 percent cashmere take was a step in the right direction, with a more consistently slim fit throughout and long-enough sleeves. It was somewhatsimilar in feel to Intimissimi’s modal-cashmere tops (which I also tried, below) — very soft and stretchy with an almost second-skin feel. But its neckline was imperfect, too; it didn’t sit flush or high enough against my neck.

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I felt it was only fair to finally pop my Flore Flore cherry and discover whether there was merit behind the brand’s 100 percent organic-cotton basics. The label makes two versionsof the Dinah: the original (which I also tested, below) and the LW, a thinner version made of “lightweight transparent” cotton. The fabrichas a substantial weight and structured feel, despite how thin and breathable it is, never veering into feeling floppy or crêpey. But I just wasn’t wowed by the fit — the collar was on the shorter side when folded over, and the bodice, though hip length, wasn’t slim enough. It felt like an improved version of J.Crew’s Feather Jersey turtleneck, but still not exactly what I was searching for.

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I was relatively unmoved by my first foray into Uniqlo’s much-adored Heattech line. This turtleneck was just okay — undeniably affordable, surprisingly black in opacity, plus light and stretchy on the skin. It fit snuggly enough (I sized down to an extra-small) and was the right length in the arms and bodice, but it still felt somewhat loose and not completely flush against my skin, as I’d prefer. And while I’m aware Heattech tops are made primarily as base layers rather thanstand-alone tops, I’d still like one that could do both. For me, this turtleneck wasn’t one that felt substantial or warm enough to be worn entirely on its own. (I also was not jazzed at the largely acrylic makeup.)

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Intimissimi’s Boat Neck modal top is one of my tried-and-trues, so I had high hopes for the turtleneck version, and it did not disappoint. Although this top may be too sheer for some people’s comfort as a solo layer, I adore the transparency. There’s an undeniably flattering effect to its thinness, which manages to elongate the limbs of anyone wearing it and become a second skin that hugs you in all the right places. It’s the most flush-fitting top of any on this list and infinitely stretchable, with a neck that’s just right. It’s very long, so it folds well, but the fabric doesn’t gather awkwardly if left unfolded; it stays put and holds its weight against your neck. And while it is indeed ultralight, it’s shockingly heat inducing when worn on its own and would be my preferred version of long johns. But its thinness is also what keeps it from being a piece I can fully depend on through the winter, which is ultimately what I’m after. Still, I love this top so dearly I’m pondering several other colors to wear through the spring.

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This top was an overall great fit, especially at the price point. Made of 100 percent long-staple cotton, it has a structured feel and thickness that verges on sweaterlike — soft and slim but not overly tight. The neckline folds over neatly and sits upright against my neck, and the fabric is completely opaque. My only qualm is with the top’s proportions; the sleeves were too short for my liking, and I wish the bodice was slightly longer.

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This top is tight — and I mean hard-to-get-your-head-through-the-collar, maybe-size-up kind of tight. Once you’re past the twisting and tugging required to get it on (do this before hair and makeup), this turtleneck is a solid option. The 5 percent spandex makes it plenty stretchy; it completely warps to your form, almost like a liquid fabric. It’s one of the inkiest blacks I tried, too. It’s a tad on the shorter side for those with a longer torso and arms, though (perhaps that’s why many reviewers recommend sizing up), and I wish the neckline’s collar was slightly higher up on my chest so that, once folded down, the end of the neckline more closely matched up with the collar. But it did hold its height and shape against my neck without flopping or crumpling, making it more streamlined than other collars on this list.

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If you’re looking for a slightly less Saran-wrap feeling, opt for Los Angeles Apparel’s Baby Rib version, which is entirely cotton. The neckhole is still narrow, but the ribbed stitching and cotton makeup makes the fit less constricting but still plenty slim. The ribbing is extremely fine, and the neckline is higher up and cleaner-looking than the spandex version. (The one downside is the fabric lacks the slight sheen of its spandex alternative.) But like the spandex version, this top’s sleeves and bodice border on the shorter side, so it’s still not quite perfect — at least for me. If you have a shorter torso or arms, it’s a dependable option.

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Where the Dinah LW missed, the original made up in spades. This turtleneck was just about perfect, with a high neckline that tidily and flatteringly folds over and a slim, substantial but never uncomfortable fit through the hip-length bodice and arms. There’s a visible difference to the original Dinah’s fabric; its cotton is much thicker and opaque in feel and color than the semi-sheer LW version. Although I wasn’t searching for a turtleneck sweater, the Dinah’s shirt-sweater hybrid won me over; I could sport it solo in sub-20-degree weather and stay warm. The arm length is perfect, too, and a back seam adds to the top’s structured fit (it’s also meant to help the fabric’s longevity), making this all in all worth the heftier price tag.

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The Luxe remains the turtleneck I reach for most regularly from this list. It feels similar enough to the Dinah (at nearly half the price) in neckline and fit, but it’s softer and stretchier, likely thanks to its Supima rather than organic-cotton makeup, plus a sprinkling of elastane. With very fine ribbing, a back seam, and exposed stitching along the arms, the top conforms to my body and is especially soft and cozy. I was surprised to love this one so much, especially as I wasn’t searching for a ribbed top and hadn’t had much luck with other Everlane tops. It never feels suffocating or overly tight (even after sizing down to an extra-small for a more formfitting feel), and it’s plenty warm on its own under a wool coat. Plus it’s just as nice in the washed heather fatigue shade, a handsome gray-brown that I’ve been wearing just as much as the black one.

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Leave it to Kim Kardashian to know how to nail a liquid-feeling top (10 percent elastane makes it the top with the highest stretch makeup). This is the only turtleneck I’ve ever tried with a zip-back closure. Once zipped close, the top molded to me perfectly, like a bodysuit sans its most annoying aspects. For lack of a better word, I was snatched. This was the only turtleneck that felt like more than a T-shirt — it felt like a proper top (without verging into sweater territory). The neck is clean-cut and requires no folding down, with long arms and a perfectly hip-length bodice. Except for needing someone to help zip me up, I have virtually no critiques, just advice to buy it now while you can. It’s on sale and selling out fast.

The Strategist is designed to surface useful, expert recommendations for things to buy across the vast e-commerce landscape. Every product is independently selected by our team of editors, whom you can read about here. We update links when possible, but note that deals can expire and all prices are subject to change.

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