Maude Bass-Krueger | Ghent University (original) (raw)

PhD Dissertation & M.A. and B.A Thesis by Maude Bass-Krueger

"The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900," studies the role of his... more "The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900," studies the role of historic dress and dress history in creating knowledge about the past in nineteenth century France. This research examined how the practice of writing about, collecting, exhibiting, making, and representing historic and historicizing dress helped the French visualize their past. The conceptual questions raised by looking at the way that people observed and used historic artifacts not only expands the history of studying artifacts but also contributes to our thinking about how to study an artifact.

Directed by Peter Miller and Michele Majer. 433 pages. Defended in September, 2015. Registered in ProQuest in 2016.

Articles - Peer Reviewed by Maude Bass-Krueger

in Modes Pratiques, n2 (2017).

International Journal of Fashion Studies, 2018

This article explores the paradoxical nature of the state of fashion studies in France. Despite F... more This article explores the paradoxical nature of the state of fashion studies in France. Despite France's long history of fostering innovative theoretical research in fashion studies and its rich cultural fashion heritage, the current state of French fashion studies lags in comparison to its Anglo-American and Northern European neighbours. The institutionalization of fashion studies is just beginning to happen in France. Currently, French fashion studies denotes an 'umbrella' term used to cover the range of scholars working in France on the social, cultural, political, economic and theoretical studies of garments and their systems of production, consumption and representations. This article discusses the current state of fashion research in France and attempts to map the landscape in terms of the main researchers, universities, programmes, departments, and public and private initiatives. The authors look at the hurdles and challenges that the discipline faces in France and discuss potential trajectories, areas for improvement and promising new projects.

This article explores fashion collecting and dress exhibitions in nineteenth-century France. The ... more This article explores fashion collecting and dress exhibitions in nineteenth-century France. The first three exhibitions of historic dress in France, which occurred in 1874, 1892, and 1900, raised a host of questions for French dress historians, collectors, and curators: they debated how historical dress should be displayed, what kind of garments should be collected, and what role fashion had in the narrative of French history. This article explores the “historical turn” in dress history, which formalized the practice of using historical garments and accessories as sources for the writing and display of history. It also examines how the shift from industrial to decorative arts spurred an interest in fashion collecting. Finally, it argues that the spectacularization of fashion display between 1874 and 1900 had an impact on the garments themselves, as collectors and curators began to alter garments in order to display them within imaginative settings. Rather than condemning these restorations, this article proposes that we view them as forms of historical imagination.

Books - Editor by Maude Bass-Krueger

The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite ... more The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

This fascinating exploration of French women’s fashion during World War I is the first in-depth c... more This fascinating exploration of French women’s fashion during World War I is the first in-depth consideration of the role that fashion played in the upheaval of French society between 1914 and 1918. As the fashion industry—the second largest industry in the country—mobilized to help the war effort, Parisian couture houses introduced new styles, aggressively disseminated information through magazines, and strengthened their propaganda efforts overseas. Women of all social classes adapted their garments to the wartime lifestyle, and practicality was increasingly introduced in the form of pockets and “sportswear” textiles like jersey. While women were heralded for contributing to the war effort, the clothes they wore while doing so often provoked debates, particularly when their attire was seen as too masculine or militaristic. With focused studies of wartime garments such as skirt suits, nurse’s uniforms, work overalls, and mourning clothes, this volume brings to life the passionate debates that roiled the French fashion industry and reveals the extent to which fashion was a hotly contested topic and a barometer for social tensions throughout this tumultuous era.

The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite ... more The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

Journals - Editor by Maude Bass-Krueger

Journal Reviews - Books, Exhibitions, Conferences by Maude Bass-Krueger

« Je t 'aime, moi non plus » — Compte-rendu du colloque « Échanges Franco-Allemands dans la Mode ... more « Je t 'aime, moi non plus » — Compte-rendu du colloque « Échanges Franco-Allemands dans la Mode » Paris, 6-7 octobre et Berlin, 10-11 octobre 2016 En octobre 2016, le séminaire de recherche « Histoire de la Mode » de l'Institut d'his-toire du temps présent, animé par les Drs. Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian (IHTP-CNRS) et la Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek, dirigée par le Dr. Adelheid Rasche, se sont associés pour l'organisation d'un colloque sur « Les Échanges Franco-Alle-mands dans la Mode ». Il s'est d'abord tenu à Paris, au Centre allemand d'Histoire de l'Art les 6 et 7 octobre, puis, à Berlin, à l'Institut français les 10 et 11 octobre. 1 Son ob-jectif était de comprendre la nature des relations unissant, sur le plan de la mode, la France et l'Allemagne, deux pays frontaliers traditionnellement considérés comme des « ennemis héréditaires », mais liés par une longue histoire d'échanges commerciaux et un riche patrimoine intellectuel et artistique. Nous sommes parties d'un constat : très peu d'ouvrages ou d'études ont été pu-bliés sur les échanges entre la France et l'Allemagne dans le domaine du textile et du vêtement. Ce sujet est pourtant crucial pour comprendre les enjeux identitaires et économiques de ces deux pays durant l'époque contemporaine. Au cours de cette période, marquée par l'augmentation des rivalités politiques et économiques, le prisme de la mode permet d'aborder autrement les questions de diplomatie, de concurrence commerciale, de nationalisme, mais aussi de transferts esthétiques et de construction des stéréotypes transfrontaliers. La mode éclaire d'une manière inédite les frictions et les divergences tant politiques, économiques que culturelles entre la France et l'Alle-magne. En effet, si depuis toujours, et davantage encore avec la naissance de la haute couture sous l'égide de Charles-Frederick Worth à la fin du XIX e siècle, Paris est consi-dérée comme la capitale de la mode et de la couture, l'Allemagne fut dès le début du XX e siècle le berceau et le principal fournisseur de la confection des vêtements euro-péens. 2 Deux aspects sont notamment ressortis des différentes interventions du colloque : sous l'angle économique, les communications ont permis d'interroger la nature et l'évo-lution des échanges commerciaux, en prenant en compte le poids des nationalismes et de la compétition économique, exacerbés par les conflits militaires qui ont marqué la fin du XIX e et la première moitié du XX e siècle ; l'approche socio-culturelle a permis quant à elle de poser la question des représentations et des perceptions.

En octobre 2016, le séminaire de recherche « Histoire de la Mode » de l'Institut d'histoire du te... more En octobre 2016, le séminaire de recherche « Histoire de la Mode » de l'Institut d'histoire du temps présent, animé par les Drs. Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian (IHTP-CNRS) et la Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek, dirigée par le Dr. Adelheid Rasche, se sont associés pour l'organisation d'un colloque sur « Les Échanges Franco-Alle-mands dans la Mode ».

Il s'est d'abord tenu à Paris, au Centre allemand d'Histoire de l'Art les 6 et 7 octobre, puis, à Berlin, à l'Institut français les 10 et 11 octobre. Son objectif était de comprendre la nature des relations unissant, sur le plan de la mode, la France et l'Allemagne, deux pays frontaliers traditionnellement considérés comme des « ennemis héréditaires », mais liés par une longue histoire d'échanges commerciaux et un riche patrimoine intellectuel et artistique.

Exhibitions - Curator by Maude Bass-Krueger

Livret qui accompagne l'exposition "Mode et Femmes, 14-18" qui s'est tenu à la Bibliothèque Forne... more Livret qui accompagne l'exposition "Mode et Femmes, 14-18" qui s'est tenu à la Bibliothèque Forney du 28 février au 17 juin 2017. https://www.bibliocite.fr/mode-femmes-1418/

Exhibition Catalogues - Entries, Chapters by Maude Bass-Krueger

"The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900," studies the role of his... more "The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900," studies the role of historic dress and dress history in creating knowledge about the past in nineteenth century France. This research examined how the practice of writing about, collecting, exhibiting, making, and representing historic and historicizing dress helped the French visualize their past. The conceptual questions raised by looking at the way that people observed and used historic artifacts not only expands the history of studying artifacts but also contributes to our thinking about how to study an artifact.

Directed by Peter Miller and Michele Majer. 433 pages. Defended in September, 2015. Registered in ProQuest in 2016.

in Modes Pratiques, n2 (2017).

International Journal of Fashion Studies, 2018

This article explores the paradoxical nature of the state of fashion studies in France. Despite F... more This article explores the paradoxical nature of the state of fashion studies in France. Despite France's long history of fostering innovative theoretical research in fashion studies and its rich cultural fashion heritage, the current state of French fashion studies lags in comparison to its Anglo-American and Northern European neighbours. The institutionalization of fashion studies is just beginning to happen in France. Currently, French fashion studies denotes an 'umbrella' term used to cover the range of scholars working in France on the social, cultural, political, economic and theoretical studies of garments and their systems of production, consumption and representations. This article discusses the current state of fashion research in France and attempts to map the landscape in terms of the main researchers, universities, programmes, departments, and public and private initiatives. The authors look at the hurdles and challenges that the discipline faces in France and discuss potential trajectories, areas for improvement and promising new projects.

This article explores fashion collecting and dress exhibitions in nineteenth-century France. The ... more This article explores fashion collecting and dress exhibitions in nineteenth-century France. The first three exhibitions of historic dress in France, which occurred in 1874, 1892, and 1900, raised a host of questions for French dress historians, collectors, and curators: they debated how historical dress should be displayed, what kind of garments should be collected, and what role fashion had in the narrative of French history. This article explores the “historical turn” in dress history, which formalized the practice of using historical garments and accessories as sources for the writing and display of history. It also examines how the shift from industrial to decorative arts spurred an interest in fashion collecting. Finally, it argues that the spectacularization of fashion display between 1874 and 1900 had an impact on the garments themselves, as collectors and curators began to alter garments in order to display them within imaginative settings. Rather than condemning these restorations, this article proposes that we view them as forms of historical imagination.

The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite ... more The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

This fascinating exploration of French women’s fashion during World War I is the first in-depth c... more This fascinating exploration of French women’s fashion during World War I is the first in-depth consideration of the role that fashion played in the upheaval of French society between 1914 and 1918. As the fashion industry—the second largest industry in the country—mobilized to help the war effort, Parisian couture houses introduced new styles, aggressively disseminated information through magazines, and strengthened their propaganda efforts overseas. Women of all social classes adapted their garments to the wartime lifestyle, and practicality was increasingly introduced in the form of pockets and “sportswear” textiles like jersey. While women were heralded for contributing to the war effort, the clothes they wore while doing so often provoked debates, particularly when their attire was seen as too masculine or militaristic. With focused studies of wartime garments such as skirt suits, nurse’s uniforms, work overalls, and mourning clothes, this volume brings to life the passionate debates that roiled the French fashion industry and reveals the extent to which fashion was a hotly contested topic and a barometer for social tensions throughout this tumultuous era.

The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite ... more The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

« Je t 'aime, moi non plus » — Compte-rendu du colloque « Échanges Franco-Allemands dans la Mode ... more « Je t 'aime, moi non plus » — Compte-rendu du colloque « Échanges Franco-Allemands dans la Mode » Paris, 6-7 octobre et Berlin, 10-11 octobre 2016 En octobre 2016, le séminaire de recherche « Histoire de la Mode » de l'Institut d'his-toire du temps présent, animé par les Drs. Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian (IHTP-CNRS) et la Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek, dirigée par le Dr. Adelheid Rasche, se sont associés pour l'organisation d'un colloque sur « Les Échanges Franco-Alle-mands dans la Mode ». Il s'est d'abord tenu à Paris, au Centre allemand d'Histoire de l'Art les 6 et 7 octobre, puis, à Berlin, à l'Institut français les 10 et 11 octobre. 1 Son ob-jectif était de comprendre la nature des relations unissant, sur le plan de la mode, la France et l'Allemagne, deux pays frontaliers traditionnellement considérés comme des « ennemis héréditaires », mais liés par une longue histoire d'échanges commerciaux et un riche patrimoine intellectuel et artistique. Nous sommes parties d'un constat : très peu d'ouvrages ou d'études ont été pu-bliés sur les échanges entre la France et l'Allemagne dans le domaine du textile et du vêtement. Ce sujet est pourtant crucial pour comprendre les enjeux identitaires et économiques de ces deux pays durant l'époque contemporaine. Au cours de cette période, marquée par l'augmentation des rivalités politiques et économiques, le prisme de la mode permet d'aborder autrement les questions de diplomatie, de concurrence commerciale, de nationalisme, mais aussi de transferts esthétiques et de construction des stéréotypes transfrontaliers. La mode éclaire d'une manière inédite les frictions et les divergences tant politiques, économiques que culturelles entre la France et l'Alle-magne. En effet, si depuis toujours, et davantage encore avec la naissance de la haute couture sous l'égide de Charles-Frederick Worth à la fin du XIX e siècle, Paris est consi-dérée comme la capitale de la mode et de la couture, l'Allemagne fut dès le début du XX e siècle le berceau et le principal fournisseur de la confection des vêtements euro-péens. 2 Deux aspects sont notamment ressortis des différentes interventions du colloque : sous l'angle économique, les communications ont permis d'interroger la nature et l'évo-lution des échanges commerciaux, en prenant en compte le poids des nationalismes et de la compétition économique, exacerbés par les conflits militaires qui ont marqué la fin du XIX e et la première moitié du XX e siècle ; l'approche socio-culturelle a permis quant à elle de poser la question des représentations et des perceptions.

En octobre 2016, le séminaire de recherche « Histoire de la Mode » de l'Institut d'histoire du te... more En octobre 2016, le séminaire de recherche « Histoire de la Mode » de l'Institut d'histoire du temps présent, animé par les Drs. Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian (IHTP-CNRS) et la Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek, dirigée par le Dr. Adelheid Rasche, se sont associés pour l'organisation d'un colloque sur « Les Échanges Franco-Alle-mands dans la Mode ».

Il s'est d'abord tenu à Paris, au Centre allemand d'Histoire de l'Art les 6 et 7 octobre, puis, à Berlin, à l'Institut français les 10 et 11 octobre. Son objectif était de comprendre la nature des relations unissant, sur le plan de la mode, la France et l'Allemagne, deux pays frontaliers traditionnellement considérés comme des « ennemis héréditaires », mais liés par une longue histoire d'échanges commerciaux et un riche patrimoine intellectuel et artistique.

Livret qui accompagne l'exposition "Mode et Femmes, 14-18" qui s'est tenu à la Bibliothèque Forne... more Livret qui accompagne l'exposition "Mode et Femmes, 14-18" qui s'est tenu à la Bibliothèque Forney du 28 février au 17 juin 2017. https://www.bibliocite.fr/mode-femmes-1418/

In Jean-Yves Le Nahour (coll.), « Codes et pratiques du deuil », Familles à l’épreuve de la Guerr... more In Jean-Yves Le Nahour (coll.), « Codes et pratiques du deuil », Familles à l’épreuve de la Guerre, Ed Somogy, juin 2018, pp.200

Contributed to the catalogue entries on Billie Burke's Biography, Billie Burke and Fashion, Billi... more Contributed to the catalogue entries on Billie Burke's Biography, Billie Burke and Fashion, Billie Burke and Photography, Jane Hading and Advertising, and Jane Hading and the Press.

Contributed to the catalogue entries on medieval sculpture, textiles for the Salon du Bois of the... more Contributed to the catalogue entries on medieval sculpture, textiles for the Salon du Bois of the Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs Pavilion at the Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1900, and woven and brocaded textiles samples from the Lyon manufacturer Prelle.

Contributed research on 19th fashion and fashion in Renoir's paintings for Deputy Director and Pe... more Contributed research on 19th fashion and fashion in Renoir's paintings for Deputy Director and Peter Jay Sharp Curator Colin Bailey.

Fashion, Society, and the First World War

The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite ... more The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.