Otto von Busch | Parsons, The New School for Design (original) (raw)
Books by Otto von Busch
SelfPassage, 2021
Fashion is about growth, feeling, and aliveness. It thrives in excess and abundance. With the eve... more Fashion is about growth, feeling, and aliveness. It thrives in excess and abundance. With the everyday discourse around circular business, we buy sustainable fashion. But how can we shift focus to how we become sustainable and more fashion-able? This book discusses circular fashion models and how these can amplify the vitality and purpose of fashion. As fashion renegotiates its relationship with consumerism, designers must not forget how fashion plays with desires, passion, and flourishing. If fashion is any good, it must be vital, or it is nothing.
The Dharma of Fashion: A Buddhist Approach to Our Life with Clothes, 2020
Our desires for fashion, our addiction to cheap clothes, our fixation on surface looks. Can we fi... more Our desires for fashion, our addiction to cheap clothes, our fixation on surface looks. Can we find ways to make what we wear more positive? Here's a quirky, irreverent way to consider what's a more sustainable way to be with—and still enjoy—fashion. This little book shows that fashion isn't shallow but connects us to the depths of existence. Especially today, fashion can tell us something about life, and this series of meditations and conversations between fashion "hacktivist" von Busch and Buddhist teacher Josh Korda shows how a Buddhist perspective on fashion can help us engage with clothes in wiser ways. It may seem a Buddhist approach to fashion would be about denying fashion and living an ascetic life in dull robes. However, Buddhism can teach us to be more present and take more pleasure in fashion. With practice and reflection, we can live a wiser life with the consumption of clothes.
The Psychopolitics of Fashion: Conflict and Courage Under the Current State of Fashion, 2020
What if fashion was a state? What kind of state would it be? Probably not a democracy. Otto von B... more What if fashion was a state? What kind of state would it be? Probably not a democracy. Otto von Busch sees fashion as a totalitarian state, with a population all too eager to enact the decrees of its aesthetic superiority. Peers police each other and deploy acts of judgment, peer-regulation, and micro-violence to uphold the aesthetic order of fashion supremacy.
Using four design projects as tools for inquiry, Von Busch explores the seductive desires of envy and violence within fashion drawing on political theories. He proposes that the violent conflicts of fashion happen not only in arid cotton fields or collapsing factories, but in the everyday practice of getting dressed, in the judgments, sneers, and rejections of others. Indeed, he suggests that feelings of inclusion and adoration are what make us feel the pleasure of being fashionable-of being seductive, popular, and powerful.
Exploring the conflicting emotions associated with fashion, Von Busch argues that while the current state of fashion is bred out of fear, The Psychopolitics of Fashion can offer constructive modes of mitigation and resistance. Through projects that actively work towards disarming the violent practices of dress, Von Busch suggests paths towards a more engaging and meaningful experience of fashion he calls “deep fashion.”
Fashion is the experience of pleasure we take in the gamble of dress. It is an emotional phenomen... more Fashion is the experience of pleasure we take in the gamble of dress. It is an emotional phenomenon that is embodied and intimately connected to biological processes in the body, our cognition, and in resonance with embodied social dynamics. The fashion industry taps into the excitement and pleasure we feel in our bodies when being admired and adored by our peers. If we are unpack fashion as a gamble, sustainable fashion is not restricted to garments and their environmental impact, but we can radically reimagine how to play the game of fashion. What if the task of clothing designers is to design a new game that facilitates new social-emotional relationships between players?
(second edition - typos corrected)
- What if we understood fashion as a bioelectrical energy and as a form of flirting? - What if f... more - What if we understood fashion as a bioelectrical energy and as a form of flirting?
- What if fashion is not so much about clothes, but primarily a cognitive interface between living organisms, hungry for connection and love?
- How would such shift in perception change our approach to fashion and sustainability?
The psychoanalyst, political theorist, biologist and pioneer of body therapies Wilhelm Reich framed a groundbreaking synthesis on the biosocial aspects of life. Reich never discussed fashion, but taking designerly inspiration from his work, this book argues fashion can be understood as a biological as much as social phenomenon; when fashion works at its best, we feel it in our bodies. The agency of fashion is not in the system, but in your body. Fashion is the organismic pleasure and excitement of growth and expansion, an energy sparkling with life, a form of biosocial flourishing, or more precisely: a vital vogue.
This thesis consists of a series of extensive projects which aim to explore a new designer role f... more This thesis consists of a series of extensive projects which aim to explore a new designer role for fashion. It is a role that experiments with how fashion can be reverse engineered, hacked, tuned and shared among many participants as a form of social activism. This ...
Expanded methodology chapter on activist design research originally from Fashion-able thesis (200... more Expanded methodology chapter on activist design research originally from Fashion-able thesis (2008) - published through Lulu in 2008
Fashion, like magic, requires rituals as much as labor. And just like successful magic, the labor... more Fashion, like magic, requires rituals as much as labor. And just like successful magic, the labor in fashion is always hidden or veiled: it always is at work under cover, or it might lose its seductive power. However, labor being hidden does not mean it is simply a matter of ignorance from the consumer side. No, the hiding of labor in fashion is a culturally and systemically induced ignorance: some part shipped overseas, others hidden under the gilded varnish of glamour.
This book aims to provoke new perspectives on the many forms of labor engaged in fashion, from sweatshops to interns and bloggers. But the books also suggests other concepts by which we can understand the production of fashion, perspectives which may open new forms of fashion praxis.
A collectively written book about the politics of fashion. - As Hannah Arendt wrote, what is most... more A collectively written book about the politics of fashion. - As Hannah Arendt wrote, what is most difficult is to love the world as it is, as it is plagued by evil and suffering. Yet, as Arendt astutely acknowledges, it is this same love that shapes our human togetherness. The Fashion Praxis Collective would add that it is the same love that shapes fashion as a social phenomenon.
This book provokes new perspectives, challenges existing concepts, and generates new ways of seeing/understanding the varieties of fashion(s); as signs and symbols, concrete human relationships and intentions, gestures and movements. As boundaries, fronts and conflicts, but also as passions and com-passions. As systems and industries, as modes of social industriousness of being together.
In recent years, designers, activists and businesspeople have started to navigate their social wo... more In recent years, designers, activists and businesspeople have started to navigate their social worlds on the basis of concepts derived from the world of computers and new media technologies. According to Otto von Busch and Karl Palmås, this represents a fundamental cultural shift. The conceptual models of modern social thought, as well as the ones emanating from the 1968 revolts, are being usurped by a new worldview. Using thinkers such as Michel Serres, Gilles Deleuze and Manuel DeLanda as a point of departure, the authors expand upon the idea that everyday technologies are profoundly interconnected with dominant modes of thought. In the nineteenth century, the motor replaced the clockwork as the universal model of knowledge. In a similar vein, new media technologies are currently replacing the motor as the dominant 'conceptual technology' of contemporary social thought. This development, von Busch and Palmås argue, has yielded new ways of construing politics, activism and innovation. The authors embark on different routes to explore this shift. Otto von Busch relates the practice of hacking to phenomena such as shopdropping, craftivism, fan fiction, liberation theology, and Spanish social movement YOMANGO. Karl Palmås examines how publications like Adbusters Magazine, as well as business theorists, have adopted a computer-inspired worldview, linking this development to the dot.com boom of the late 1990s. Hence, the text is written for designers and activists, as well as for the general reader interested in cultural studies.
asylstafetten hantverk politik // crafts politics, Jun 4, 2014
In July 2013, Malmö, Sweden, a group of asylum seekers and undocumented migrants initiated a marc... more In July 2013, Malmö, Sweden, a group of asylum seekers and undocumented migrants initiated a march from Malmö to Stockholm called Asylstafetten. The marchers demanded that their stories of migration, asylum and undocumentedness be heard and transferred into action. Many activities were organised for the duration of the 34 day-long march including the crafting workshops. Through essays and conversations with participants of the march, this publication portrays multiple narratives about the workshops; the spaces they occupied, the practices and ideas they generated as well as their political potential to come.
----
I juli 2013, Malmö, tog en grupp asylsökande och papperslösa migranter initiativet till en vandring från Malmö till Stockholm – Asylstafetten. Vandrarna krävde att deras berättelser om migration, asyl och papperslöshet skulle höras och transformeras till handling. Ett flertal aktiviteter organiserades under den 34-dagars långa marschen, där hantverks-workshoppar ingick. Genom texter och konversationer med deltagare i vandringen, porträtterar den här publikationen flera skildringar av dessa workshoppar; platserna de intog, utövandet och idéerna de frambringade liksom dess kommande politiska potential.
Papers by Otto von Busch
The Design Journal, 2023
In design, it is commonly held that it is a virtue to speak the language of possibilities and to... more In design, it is commonly held that it is a virtue to speak the language of
possibilities and to ask speculative ‘what if?’ questions. This tends to be translated into a design practice that privileges creative conjectures about ideal end states. Conversely, designers are rarely encouraged to think creatively about how a recalcitrant social world may scupper their grand designs. In response to this, we argue that the contemporary debate on design could do with a healthy dose of political realism. The lofty ideals of democratic design cannot be realised without recognising
the harsh realities of power.
Routledge eBooks, Dec 12, 2022
Routledge eBooks, Dec 12, 2022
This article interrogates the proposition, recently put forward by design thinking advocates Tim ... more This article interrogates the proposition, recently put forward by design thinking advocates Tim Brown and Roger Martin, that democratic capitalism needs design thinking. More specifically, it assesses three problematics that emerge when design thinking moves from corporate settings to the public sphere of democratic deliberation. The text thus discusses the potential for design thinking to be used as a tool for the exercise of cybernetic control in the context of a mounting dissent with social injustice, and the extent to which it may be deployed as a means to “guide” democracy. Furthermore, it posits that the expectations placed on design thinking reflect the design profession’s agnostic approach to realpolitik.
She Ji: The Journal of Design, Economics, and Innovation, 2016
Silhouettes of the Soul, 2022
Silhouettes of the Soul, 2022
SelfPassage, 2021
Fashion is about growth, feeling, and aliveness. It thrives in excess and abundance. With the eve... more Fashion is about growth, feeling, and aliveness. It thrives in excess and abundance. With the everyday discourse around circular business, we buy sustainable fashion. But how can we shift focus to how we become sustainable and more fashion-able? This book discusses circular fashion models and how these can amplify the vitality and purpose of fashion. As fashion renegotiates its relationship with consumerism, designers must not forget how fashion plays with desires, passion, and flourishing. If fashion is any good, it must be vital, or it is nothing.
The Dharma of Fashion: A Buddhist Approach to Our Life with Clothes, 2020
Our desires for fashion, our addiction to cheap clothes, our fixation on surface looks. Can we fi... more Our desires for fashion, our addiction to cheap clothes, our fixation on surface looks. Can we find ways to make what we wear more positive? Here's a quirky, irreverent way to consider what's a more sustainable way to be with—and still enjoy—fashion. This little book shows that fashion isn't shallow but connects us to the depths of existence. Especially today, fashion can tell us something about life, and this series of meditations and conversations between fashion "hacktivist" von Busch and Buddhist teacher Josh Korda shows how a Buddhist perspective on fashion can help us engage with clothes in wiser ways. It may seem a Buddhist approach to fashion would be about denying fashion and living an ascetic life in dull robes. However, Buddhism can teach us to be more present and take more pleasure in fashion. With practice and reflection, we can live a wiser life with the consumption of clothes.
The Psychopolitics of Fashion: Conflict and Courage Under the Current State of Fashion, 2020
What if fashion was a state? What kind of state would it be? Probably not a democracy. Otto von B... more What if fashion was a state? What kind of state would it be? Probably not a democracy. Otto von Busch sees fashion as a totalitarian state, with a population all too eager to enact the decrees of its aesthetic superiority. Peers police each other and deploy acts of judgment, peer-regulation, and micro-violence to uphold the aesthetic order of fashion supremacy.
Using four design projects as tools for inquiry, Von Busch explores the seductive desires of envy and violence within fashion drawing on political theories. He proposes that the violent conflicts of fashion happen not only in arid cotton fields or collapsing factories, but in the everyday practice of getting dressed, in the judgments, sneers, and rejections of others. Indeed, he suggests that feelings of inclusion and adoration are what make us feel the pleasure of being fashionable-of being seductive, popular, and powerful.
Exploring the conflicting emotions associated with fashion, Von Busch argues that while the current state of fashion is bred out of fear, The Psychopolitics of Fashion can offer constructive modes of mitigation and resistance. Through projects that actively work towards disarming the violent practices of dress, Von Busch suggests paths towards a more engaging and meaningful experience of fashion he calls “deep fashion.”
Fashion is the experience of pleasure we take in the gamble of dress. It is an emotional phenomen... more Fashion is the experience of pleasure we take in the gamble of dress. It is an emotional phenomenon that is embodied and intimately connected to biological processes in the body, our cognition, and in resonance with embodied social dynamics. The fashion industry taps into the excitement and pleasure we feel in our bodies when being admired and adored by our peers. If we are unpack fashion as a gamble, sustainable fashion is not restricted to garments and their environmental impact, but we can radically reimagine how to play the game of fashion. What if the task of clothing designers is to design a new game that facilitates new social-emotional relationships between players?
(second edition - typos corrected)
- What if we understood fashion as a bioelectrical energy and as a form of flirting? - What if f... more - What if we understood fashion as a bioelectrical energy and as a form of flirting?
- What if fashion is not so much about clothes, but primarily a cognitive interface between living organisms, hungry for connection and love?
- How would such shift in perception change our approach to fashion and sustainability?
The psychoanalyst, political theorist, biologist and pioneer of body therapies Wilhelm Reich framed a groundbreaking synthesis on the biosocial aspects of life. Reich never discussed fashion, but taking designerly inspiration from his work, this book argues fashion can be understood as a biological as much as social phenomenon; when fashion works at its best, we feel it in our bodies. The agency of fashion is not in the system, but in your body. Fashion is the organismic pleasure and excitement of growth and expansion, an energy sparkling with life, a form of biosocial flourishing, or more precisely: a vital vogue.
This thesis consists of a series of extensive projects which aim to explore a new designer role f... more This thesis consists of a series of extensive projects which aim to explore a new designer role for fashion. It is a role that experiments with how fashion can be reverse engineered, hacked, tuned and shared among many participants as a form of social activism. This ...
Expanded methodology chapter on activist design research originally from Fashion-able thesis (200... more Expanded methodology chapter on activist design research originally from Fashion-able thesis (2008) - published through Lulu in 2008
Fashion, like magic, requires rituals as much as labor. And just like successful magic, the labor... more Fashion, like magic, requires rituals as much as labor. And just like successful magic, the labor in fashion is always hidden or veiled: it always is at work under cover, or it might lose its seductive power. However, labor being hidden does not mean it is simply a matter of ignorance from the consumer side. No, the hiding of labor in fashion is a culturally and systemically induced ignorance: some part shipped overseas, others hidden under the gilded varnish of glamour.
This book aims to provoke new perspectives on the many forms of labor engaged in fashion, from sweatshops to interns and bloggers. But the books also suggests other concepts by which we can understand the production of fashion, perspectives which may open new forms of fashion praxis.
A collectively written book about the politics of fashion. - As Hannah Arendt wrote, what is most... more A collectively written book about the politics of fashion. - As Hannah Arendt wrote, what is most difficult is to love the world as it is, as it is plagued by evil and suffering. Yet, as Arendt astutely acknowledges, it is this same love that shapes our human togetherness. The Fashion Praxis Collective would add that it is the same love that shapes fashion as a social phenomenon.
This book provokes new perspectives, challenges existing concepts, and generates new ways of seeing/understanding the varieties of fashion(s); as signs and symbols, concrete human relationships and intentions, gestures and movements. As boundaries, fronts and conflicts, but also as passions and com-passions. As systems and industries, as modes of social industriousness of being together.
In recent years, designers, activists and businesspeople have started to navigate their social wo... more In recent years, designers, activists and businesspeople have started to navigate their social worlds on the basis of concepts derived from the world of computers and new media technologies. According to Otto von Busch and Karl Palmås, this represents a fundamental cultural shift. The conceptual models of modern social thought, as well as the ones emanating from the 1968 revolts, are being usurped by a new worldview. Using thinkers such as Michel Serres, Gilles Deleuze and Manuel DeLanda as a point of departure, the authors expand upon the idea that everyday technologies are profoundly interconnected with dominant modes of thought. In the nineteenth century, the motor replaced the clockwork as the universal model of knowledge. In a similar vein, new media technologies are currently replacing the motor as the dominant 'conceptual technology' of contemporary social thought. This development, von Busch and Palmås argue, has yielded new ways of construing politics, activism and innovation. The authors embark on different routes to explore this shift. Otto von Busch relates the practice of hacking to phenomena such as shopdropping, craftivism, fan fiction, liberation theology, and Spanish social movement YOMANGO. Karl Palmås examines how publications like Adbusters Magazine, as well as business theorists, have adopted a computer-inspired worldview, linking this development to the dot.com boom of the late 1990s. Hence, the text is written for designers and activists, as well as for the general reader interested in cultural studies.
asylstafetten hantverk politik // crafts politics, Jun 4, 2014
In July 2013, Malmö, Sweden, a group of asylum seekers and undocumented migrants initiated a marc... more In July 2013, Malmö, Sweden, a group of asylum seekers and undocumented migrants initiated a march from Malmö to Stockholm called Asylstafetten. The marchers demanded that their stories of migration, asylum and undocumentedness be heard and transferred into action. Many activities were organised for the duration of the 34 day-long march including the crafting workshops. Through essays and conversations with participants of the march, this publication portrays multiple narratives about the workshops; the spaces they occupied, the practices and ideas they generated as well as their political potential to come.
----
I juli 2013, Malmö, tog en grupp asylsökande och papperslösa migranter initiativet till en vandring från Malmö till Stockholm – Asylstafetten. Vandrarna krävde att deras berättelser om migration, asyl och papperslöshet skulle höras och transformeras till handling. Ett flertal aktiviteter organiserades under den 34-dagars långa marschen, där hantverks-workshoppar ingick. Genom texter och konversationer med deltagare i vandringen, porträtterar den här publikationen flera skildringar av dessa workshoppar; platserna de intog, utövandet och idéerna de frambringade liksom dess kommande politiska potential.
The Design Journal, 2023
In design, it is commonly held that it is a virtue to speak the language of possibilities and to... more In design, it is commonly held that it is a virtue to speak the language of
possibilities and to ask speculative ‘what if?’ questions. This tends to be translated into a design practice that privileges creative conjectures about ideal end states. Conversely, designers are rarely encouraged to think creatively about how a recalcitrant social world may scupper their grand designs. In response to this, we argue that the contemporary debate on design could do with a healthy dose of political realism. The lofty ideals of democratic design cannot be realised without recognising
the harsh realities of power.
Routledge eBooks, Dec 12, 2022
Routledge eBooks, Dec 12, 2022
This article interrogates the proposition, recently put forward by design thinking advocates Tim ... more This article interrogates the proposition, recently put forward by design thinking advocates Tim Brown and Roger Martin, that democratic capitalism needs design thinking. More specifically, it assesses three problematics that emerge when design thinking moves from corporate settings to the public sphere of democratic deliberation. The text thus discusses the potential for design thinking to be used as a tool for the exercise of cybernetic control in the context of a mounting dissent with social injustice, and the extent to which it may be deployed as a means to “guide” democracy. Furthermore, it posits that the expectations placed on design thinking reflect the design profession’s agnostic approach to realpolitik.
She Ji: The Journal of Design, Economics, and Innovation, 2016
Silhouettes of the Soul, 2022
Silhouettes of the Soul, 2022
The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies, 2021
We don’t know fashion as much as we feel fashion. This perspective puts emotion and other affecti... more We don’t know fashion as much as we feel fashion. This perspective puts emotion and other affective perspectives as the basis for the understanding of fashion. If people are forced to appear before others, fashion plays with both positive and negative emotional valance. Users of fashion seek positive emotions, such as affirmation, and fear other social responses, such as rejection, or worse: bullying. This pulls most consumers to the barren landscapes of identifying fashion as merely another word for minimal viable and acceptable sameness.
Many fashion theorists have approached fashion as a form of sartorial ‘code’, signifying meaning ... more Many fashion theorists have approached fashion as a form of sartorial ‘code’, signifying meaning and being a system of communication or a specific visual language. From this reading of fashion, semiotic systems of codes define fashion, and consumers learn to decipher the meanings projected through the system. Among fashion practitioners however, the analytical tool of semantic codes does not seem to have attracted much attention, and there are only a few examples where theory and practice share a common applicable approach. Yet, a literal usage of the concept might offer new action spaces for practitioners, as it could be hybridized with another practice of coding: programming. This was examined during a design workshop the author held at Gallery Room 103 in Auckland in Spring 2009, called Fashion Fianchettos. The workshop used live draping and algebraic topology to experiment with new ways of disseminating fashion, as a set of mathematical functions and minimal codes of new draping...
Design designates; it guides and leads us towards specific types of behaviors. Designers serve to... more Design designates; it guides and leads us towards specific types of behaviors. Designers serve to defend and propel the interests of the client, who wants to lead their customers or users into a relationship of dependence and addiction. Through the clever use of devices, apparatuses and affordances, design sorts and consolidates human behaviors to propel the status quo. However, there can be many forms of resistances, and one form is hacking – the manipulation of the mechanisms which guide and exclude, such as locks. In this way, the craft of manipulation is the central feat of hacking. It is the material intervention of trespassing into systems in order to change and tune them towards becoming counter-systems. This text examines how hacking can be used to manipulate systems of exclusion into more inclusive systems; affecting the designed guidance devices in order to propel both sustainability and social justice.
Varfor revolterar manniskor? Ar de hjaltar eller vandaler? Det handlar om manniskor som ockuperar... more Varfor revolterar manniskor? Ar de hjaltar eller vandaler? Det handlar om manniskor som ockuperar mark, vagrar lyda order, bildar clownarmeer, virkar egna Guccivaskor eller startar en egen bank. De gor motstand och ifragasatter, ibland med sitt eget liv som insats.
Apria, 2020
On the boundary of abundance, of extra resources, energy or time, the sugar of aliveness is added... more On the boundary of abundance, of extra resources, energy or time, the sugar of aliveness is added to the everyday—play, decoration, the sweet tastes of aesthetics and sensory pleasures. This is the sugar of plenty, the culinary multitudes of candied lavishness, the fabulousness of fashion. Is fashion a passion, a hunger, is it food or medicine, or perhaps nourishment and poison in one?
Fashion Practice, 2019
A growing consensus is emerging that the modus operandi of the fashion system is in need of chang... more A growing consensus is emerging that the modus operandi of the fashion system is in need of change. Yet for change it requires not only incentives but the agency and power to transform. Designers must ask what kind of power is needed to change, and how such power can be mobilized, cultivated and leveraged.
APRIA, 2019
It may seem obvious that the best way to challenge today’s accelerated and unfettered consumerism... more It may seem obvious that the best way to challenge today’s accelerated and unfettered consumerism is with frugality and calls for more lasting experiences—for example, through ‘slow fashion’. However, this ascetic response of austerity and self-denial seems at odds with the more passionate connections of dress and desire. It seems reasonable to aim for lasting and emotionally durable designs. Yet as with our passions and love in general, making emotions last is no easy thing. Or rather, it seems almost natural that suffering can be lasting and chronic, however unwanted (such as depressions), yet euphoria and bliss can only exist as ephemeral waves of elation. By definition, passions appear unsustainable and unquenchable.
Fashion Practice, 2018
Cheap and accessible fashion from large retailers has, over the last decades, been thought of as ... more Cheap and accessible fashion from large retailers has, over the last decades, been thought of as a “democratic” form of consumerism. While embraced by masses of people with substantial environmental costs, many designers and researchers have questioned this mode of fast production and consumption. Designers try to create more sustainable models of consumption, often combined with ideas of other forms of consumer “inclusion” than cheap accessibility, yet they seldom define exactly what kind of inclusion is meant and what kind of desires they tap into. Using the example of nightclubs, this article asks some fundamental questions about the relationship between inclusion and exclusion in fashion, exclusivity and ability, and how to help cultivate a deeper interrogation of the dynamics these poles.
International Journal of Fashion Studies, 2018
The 2017 exhibition Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons – Art of the In-Between at the Metropolitan Mu... more The 2017 exhibition Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons – Art of the In-Between at the Metropolitan Museum in New York exposed the rich work of the iconic Japanese fashion designer Rei Kawakubo to a larger western audience. As the title of the exhibition indicates, Kawakubo's work does not fit well within some of the classic conceptual assumptions around fashion, but can be placed as something 'in-between'. The show and printed museum guide were arranged around a series of conceptual dichotomies that Kawakubo's work transgressed. Yet these transgressions also exposed the arbitrariness of central distinctions in fashion and questioned how universal key concepts in fashion really are. In examining the printed guide to the Kawakubo show, this text challenges the intercultural applicability of concepts such as 'fetish' and 'copy' across cultural spheres in fashion studies, and questions the universal application of such concepts to unpack meanings and practices in fashion.
Contagion: Journal of Violence, Mimesis, and Culture,, 2018
Fashion is a mimetic phenomenon. It thrives in the pleasures and desires of imitation. As sociolo... more Fashion is a mimetic phenomenon. It thrives in the pleasures and desires of imitation. As sociologist Yuniya Kawamura notices in her book Fashion-ology, early sociologists, such as Veblen, Tarde, and Simmel, all regard fashion as a “concept of imitation.” Even if their specific theories differ, Veblen, Tarde, and Simmel saw fashion as an imitative “flow” most dominantly from the superior to inferior, and this became known as the “trickle-down” theory. Even if these ideas have been complemented by many other sociological, psychological, and communicative models, imitation is a central trope in the analysis of fashion, yet little attention has been put to the microdynamics of imitation. Or to put it more poignantly, little attention has been put to the human price of the process of trickle-down, to the fact that rivalry, exclusion, and bullying play a part in the demarcation between fashionable and unfashionable, or to the fact that the distinction between “in” and the “out” is as much conceptual as social and spatial. Using the mimetic theory of René Girard may help put a spotlight on this dynamic and put scapegoating as a central trope in the othering of the style and person who is considered “out”: an aesthetic form of scapegoating. As will be made explicit, the ambiguous meanings and significations of dress act as a perfect alibi for such rejections and violence, as the “shallowness” of fashion makes it much harder for the victim to point toward the transgression and retaliate.
Fashion + : Inclusive articulations and practices in design, communication & development (eds: Dirk Reynders & Marie Geneviève Cyr), 2024
Routine never challenges arrangements. Activism, however, unsettles and takes undesignated paths.... more Routine never challenges arrangements. Activism, however, unsettles
and takes undesignated paths. This is a paradox for designers, who love to arrange and designate what others should do. Designers build worlds, while activists turn worlds upside-down. Activism celebrates agency over structure, vitality over predictability, prophecy over memory. Activism is agency bound to risk and vulnerability. This makes it tricky business, always moving across shifting sand with power becoming feral. While it can be seductive to let the latest fashion act as a canvas for the latest politics, we must also pay attention to the fact that activism can question and unsettle the arrangements of fashion itself. We can frame it in this way: fashion activism signifies a will to inhabit more worlds than we are offered to purchase. A radical activist fashion, questioning the roots of the fashion
system, promises no new seasonal changes, no slogans to adopt. Instead, it opens the moment up as an inclusive realm that it is possible to inhabit and change. Using the promise of fashion, it is an activism that is never reactive or shallow, but one that redistributes agency in the vital and decisive masquerades of everyday life. Fashion activism helps equip the self to deal with our masked multitudes of unfathomable depths, and helps us do so with a sense of integrity.
Slowness In Fashion (ed. Solen Kipoz), 2020
Neither fashion nor time are neutral. Both serve political, technological and economic functions ... more Neither fashion nor time are neutral. Both serve political, technological and economic functions of society. Slowing down time serves some more than others. This also applies for slow fashion.
The Handbook of Textile Culture,, 2016
The connection between cloth, veiling, illusion and deception has a history as long as textiles t... more The connection between cloth, veiling, illusion and deception has a history as long as textiles themselves. Today, however, as fashion has become a ubiquitous tool for popular self-realization in consumer society, we are draped in dreams, yet the fashion system is enfolded in obscure and secretive veils of deception and denial. Sourcing, manufacturing and design are mystical areas beyond the reach of consumers, not only unknown, but also purposefully masked. With power at stake, textile production has since early industrialism been engaged in countless exploitations, always seeking the cheapest labor sources, preying on the most vulnerable people under appalling conditions, with child labor, overseas sweatshops, and unpaid interns, and the world of fashion is well known for its underage models and rampant racial discrimination. The new illusions of a “democratic” fashion is yet another layer of dazzle camouflage, enfolded in a cult of beauty, where denials and illusions are an inherent part of the fashion industry’s strategic involvements at the heart of globalised consumerism.
As consumers and designers aim for more authenticity, honesty and transparency in the production of textiles, they may be stepping into a paradox, as the allure of draping the social world in textiles is partly founded on mystery, magic and illusion. Yet, some design activists engage with the consumer system to create pre-figurative political interventions, using the illusions of fashion as a mode to imagine and test new creative and productive forms of enclothed togetherness, addressing social and political issues of societal sustainability, reaching through the dazzling desire with daring disobedience.
Design designates; it guides and leads us towards specific types of behaviors. Designers serve to... more Design designates; it guides and leads us towards specific types of behaviors. Designers serve to defend and propel the interests of the client, who wants to lead their customers or users into a relationship of dependence and addiction. Through the clever use of devices, apparatuses and affordances, design sorts and consolidates human behaviors to propel the status quo. However, there can be many forms of resistances, and one form is hacking – the manipulation of the mechanisms which guide and exclude, such as locks. In this way, the craft of manipulation is the central feat of hacking. It is the material intervention of trespassing into systems in order to change and tune them towards becoming counter-systems. This text examines how hacking can be used to manipulate systems of exclusion into more inclusive systems; affecting the designed guidance devices in order to propel both sustainability and social justice.
How do we know design hacking is used for virtuous deeds and not vigilantism?
(chapter published in Black, Sandy (ed) (2012) The sustainable fashion handbook, New York: Thames... more (chapter published in Black, Sandy (ed) (2012) The sustainable fashion handbook, New York: Thames & Hudson)
Fashion is full of paradoxes and certainly one of the most profound is how we try to express individuality using only ready-made objects whose meanings are primarily created outside of ourselves. We assemble an outfit that we want to use to express our modest uniqueness; individual but at the same time not too individual. We try to say something personal through fashion, yet it can never be totally autonomous, just like we cannot have our own personal language, since it has to be somehow shared to work as communication. Fashionable expression is thus stuck in-between the heteronomous process of creation as a communication tool and the autonomous will of the wearer to express something personal.
Fashion hacking is a practice where fashion is reverse engineered and tuned to make users "fashio... more Fashion hacking is a practice where fashion is reverse engineered and tuned to make users "fashion-able", using social media to expand transversal tactics in order to reprogram and shapeshift fashion codes. Other traits address the shamanistic rituality of fashion and how participatory practices can expand the realm of fashion beyond the catwalk and ready-to- wear paradigm. Can technologies express the mythical beauty of fashion?
This paper reviews how scholars within “aesthetic managment” have critiqued mainstream, marketing... more This paper reviews how scholars within “aesthetic managment” have critiqued mainstream, marketing-led Design Management. The text argues that while this approach does have its merits, it ultimately fails to create the kind of creative economy that it purports to endorse. Rather, by stressing the unique and transcendent creative powers of the auteur, it simply invents yet another authority that yields economic hierarchies. The authors thus propose that the discipline of Design Management ought to follow recent developments within business and the arts, in which innovation and creativity is described in ways that do away with traditional notions of authorship. Doing so would enable the discipline to explore how non-hierarchical, “meshworked” economies can be created around the practices of individual designers.
Proceedings of the 2004 conference on Designing interactive systems processes, practices, methods, and techniques - DIS '04, 2004
DESIGN ACT Socially and politically engaged design today – critical roles and emerging tactics is... more DESIGN ACT Socially and politically engaged design today – critical roles and emerging tactics is a book that presents and discusses contemporary design practices that engage with political and societal issues. Since 2009, the Iaspis project DESIGN ACT has been highlighting and discussing practices in which designers have been engaging critically as well as practically in such issues. Itself an example of applied critical thinking and experimental tactics, the process behind the DESIGN ACT project is considered as a curatorial, participatory and open-ended activity. DESIGN ACT has developed through an online archive, public events and an international network. This book complements the project, presenting historical and contemporary perspectives, a discussion of emerging themes and tactics, and platforms discussing the role of designers today.
Moda Praksisi, May 1, 2017
“Çıplak doğarsın ve gerisi gelir.” Moda Praksisi, Hannah Arendt’in görüşlerinin moda üzerine dü... more “Çıplak doğarsın ve gerisi gelir.”
Moda Praksisi, Hannah Arendt’in görüşlerinin moda üzerine düşünülmesidir. Arendt bize, üzerinde hiç kafa yormadığımız kötülüklerin işbirlikçisi olabileceğimiz gibi rahatsız edici bir gerçekle yüzleşmemiz gerektiğini söyler. Aynı zamanda dünyayı olduğu gibi yani kötülük ve acılardan rahat yüzü görmemiş haliyle sevmemizi ister. Etik moda anlayışı da Arendt’in bu görüşleri üzerinden, politika ve modanın temel bazı güçlerini ve ortak yanlarını anlamamız için çalışmaktadır.
İnsanların tek tip giyinmesine ve eskimeyen giysileri çöpe atmasına sebep olan; görünmeyen yüzünde mültecileri, çocukları ve negatif ayrımcılığa uğrayanları izbe mekanlarda, sosyal güvenceden yoksun bir şekilde aşırı saatler çalıştıran moda tiranlığı, pekala şiddet üretir! Buna karşın endüstriyel modaya küresel düzeyde alternatifler üretebiliriz. Kreatif bir geri çekiliş, reddetme, cesaret, kendi dağıtım ağlarını kurma, paralel üretim, ileri dönüşüm, yeni tüketim modelleri oluşturmak, yavaş moda ve benzeri yollarla neler yapılabileceğine dair küçük ama dönüştürücü bir perspektif yaratabiliriz.
Korkutucu derecede şiddet içeren eylemleri daha derin düşünmek, bize çözümlerin anahtarını da verebilir. İşte bu kitabı çok özel yapan şey, moda üzerine çalışan bir dizi düşünürün, “günlük alışkanlıklarımızın karmaşası içinde görünmez olanın” üzerindeki sıvayı kazımalarıdır.
“Dünyamızın sonu, ona yalnızca tek bir açıdan bakıldığında ve kendisine sadece tek bir perspektiften bakmaya kapı açtığımızda gelmiş demektir.” Hannah Arendt
“Herhangi bir yerdeki adaletsizlik, her yerdeki adalet için tehdittir. Kaçınılmaz bir birliktelik ağına yakalanmış, bir tek kaderin elbisesi ile bağlanmışız. Birini doğrudan etkileyen şey, dolaylı olarak herkesi etkiler.” Martin Luther King Jr
“Endüstriyel moda, kadınların hiç bir zaman yeterli olmadığını ve endüstri tarafından oluşturulan standartlara göre her zaman kendini
geliştirmesi gerektiğini dikte eder.” Jennifer Nelson
Utopian Studies, 2017
The production of the special issue Utopia and Fashion, at a time when the future of our relation... more The production of the special issue Utopia and Fashion, at a time when the future of our relationship with fashion is being so widely discussed, aims to be an initial contribution to what we hope will become a long-term dialogue regarding both the role of fashion in utopian thinking and the potential of utopian thinking to reimagine and inspire better futures for fashion. The issue embraces Ruth Levitas’s conceptualization of utopia as a method of exploring alternative scenarios for the future and it combines perspectives from academics and practitioners across multiple disciplines.
There is no arguing with the fact that the history of fashion, like the history of utopian thought, has been stained by suffering, exploitation, and even totalitarianism, but despite their deficiencies and faults, both have also fuelled human imagination, encouraged aspiration and innovation, and provided hope for a better sense of self and an improved, more inclusive society. A world without fashion, like a world without utopia, would be a very sad one. Through this special issue we propose a dialogue that embraces the significance of fashion in utopian visions and one that exploits the potential of utopian imagination to inspire better and more sustainable fashion futures. A dialogue that is fuelled by the belief that positive social change is both possible and desirable.
Guest editor: Mila Burcikova
Contributors: Jane MacRae Campbell, Justyna Galant, Annebella Pollen, Andrew Brookes, Kate Fletcher, Robert A. Francis, Emma Dulcie Rigby, Thomas Roberts, Otto von Busch, Timo Rissanen, Vidmina Stasiulyte, Celia Pym, Ryan Yasin