How to Get to Vardzia from Tbilisi, Kutaisi or Batumi (original) (raw)

This detailed transport guide explains how to get to Vardzia cave city from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi or Akhaltsikhe – including the best way to do a Tbilisi to Vardzia day trip.

Nestled deep in southern Samtskhe-Javakheti region, close to the borders with Turkey and Armenia, Vardzia is Georgia’s largest and most impressive cave city complex.

Sweeping in scale and rich in history, Vardzia is unsurprisingly a fixture of most travellers’ Georgia wish-list. But because of its remote location and the time it takes to get there, it can be difficult to figure out the best way to travel to Vardzia and just where to fit it into your itinerary.

Vardzia in Georgia, a cave city against a backdrop of mountains.

The incredible Vardzia cave city in Georgia.

Having visited Vardzia and the surrounding area half a dozen times now, I know the ins and outs of this journey well. In this guide, I’ll run through the different transport options available from Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi.

Important note: There are two Vardzias in Georgia. Be careful not to select the wrong one on Google Maps! The Vardzia you want to navigate to is this one, not the village of Vardzia in Imereti.

This guide has been updated for summer 2023. Always double-check times and prices locally before you travel.

Looking for more information about Vardzia? My Vardzia Visitor’s Guide contains lots of helpful tips plus background on the site’s history.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Distances & travel times to Vardzia

Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia

A white minivan waiting outside the bus station in Akhaltsikhe, Georgia.

Akhaltsikhe Bus Station.

Akhaltsikhe is the closest city to Vardzia and the most logical departure point for visiting the cave city. There are a few other things to do in Akhaltsikhe (including the amazing Rabati Fortress), so it’s actually a great place to spend a night or two. See my Akhaltsikhe city guide for suggestions.

Because there are no direct buses to Vardzia from Kutaisi or Batumi and only a couple of direct vans from Tbilisi, anyone who’s travelling by marshrutka will likely have to transit through Akhaltsikhe first.

Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia bus

There are several different marshrutka minivans that leave from Akhaltsikhe’s main bus station and drop passengers off near the entrance to Vardzia caves. In summer, there are four vans to Vardzia from Akhaltsikhe at 10.30am, 12.20pm, 4pm, and 5.30pm. Additionally, there are two vans from Akhaltsikhe to Miramkhani (Mirashkhani), a village just down the road from Vardzia, at 10.30am and 4pm. Travel time is around 90 minutes and the fare is approximately 7 GEL.

Another option is to take a van to a village close to Vardzia then continue on by local taxi: Aspindza (40 mins to Vardzia; vans daily at 10.20am, 11.30pm, 2pm, 4.20pm and 5pm); Toloshi (20 mins to Vardzia; one van at 2.50pm); or Nakalakevi (15 mins to Vardzia; one van at 3.10pm).

Akhaltsikhe Bus Station is located next to the railway station on Tamarashvili Street (see the exact location here). This is my favourite bus station in Georgia – it’s very organised with timetables in English.

Purchase a ticket from the cash counter inside before you board the van. Drivers will depart early if their van is full, so as always, I recommend arriving 20-30 minutes ahead of time to secure a seat.

Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia taxi

If the bus times don’t line up or you want to have more flexibility, another option is to take a taxi to Vardzia from Akhaltsikhe. This should cost around 70-80 GEL round-trip including wait time while you visit the caves. Make sure you ask the driver to stop at this viewpoint on the way.

Drivers wait in front of the bus station. If you’re staying at Old Street, my recommended hotel in Akhaltsikhe, the owners can organise a reliable driver for you.

Driving from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia

If you have a rental car, this is a very pleasant and easy drive. I’ve done it twice myself. The road is fully sealed all the way to the caves and it’s very scenic as you follow the river valley. There are lots of places to stop along the way, including at Khertvisi and Tmogvi fortresses. Parking is available right at the entrance to Vardzia.

An alternative route through the village of Apnia brings you down the Mtkvari River valley via a snaking, very scenic road to approach the caves from the south. This road is unpaved and only suitable for 4WDs.

I recommend hiring a car from a local agent through Local Rent. Make sure you read my driving tips before you set off.

An marshrtuka minivan from Tbilisi to Akhaltsikhe at Didube.

The Tbilisi Akhaltsikhe marshrutka van at Didube Station.

It takes around 4-5 hours to travel to Vardzia from Tbilisi by road via Akhaltsikhe, potentially longer if you’re going by van. If you only have one day to visit Vardzia and you need to be back in Tbilisi the same night, I highly recommend joining a day tour or hiring a driver rather than trying to travel DIY by marshrutka.

If you do go by marshrutka, you’ll only have an hour or so at the caves and you’ll miss out on everything else the area has to offer. I wouldn’t recommend this at all – there are alternative day trips from Tbilisi that require less driving, including the caves at David Gareja and Uplistsikhe.

Tbilisi to Vardzia tour

The best Vardzia day trip I’ve been able to find is this private tour with Friendly.ge. It runs for the full day (around 12 hours) and visits the caves along with Rabati Fortress and Borjomi Central Park. Hotel transfers to/from Tbilisi are included, and you get a private guide. I am very fond of Friendly.ge’s local guides and in my experience their drivers are always safe.

Book here via the website and use the promo code wanderlush to get a 10% discount.

If you’re on a budget, this group tour of Vardzia, Rabati and Borjomi follows a similar itinerary.

Tbilisi to Vardzia bus

Marshrutka vans to Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe depart from ‘Bus Station Nige’ located inside the big Didube Bus Station (AKA Okriba). As you exit the metro at Didube, make a sharp left and you will see the small station and vans waiting to leave for Akhaltsikhe, Borjomi and Bakuriani. There is a cash desk where you can buy your bus tickets right next to the orange Bank of Georgia branch. There is a public toilet to the left of the ticket office.

See my Didube Station guide and video tour to see exactly where the ticket desk is located.

There are two direct morning buses to Vardzia from Tbilisi at 10.10am and 11am. The fare is 22 GEL, and travel time is around 5 hours.

The other option is to transit through Akhaltsikhe. Vans to Akhaltsikhe depart from the same spot every 40 minutes or when full starting from 7.40am. The last van leaves at 7pm. The journey takes around 4 hours, and tickets cost 15 GEL. If you’re travelling in the late afternoon or during the off-season you might have to change vans in Khashuri (departing every 40 minutes for 7 GEL).

When you arrive in Akhaltsikhe, alight at the bus station and transfer to a van or taxi. If you’re attempting a Vardzia day trip via Akhaltsikhe, I recommend catching the earliest van from Didube to make it in time for the 12.20pm van from Akhaltsikhe to the caves.

Tbilisi to Vardzia taxi

A more flexible (and comfortable!) alternative to marshrutka van is a private taxi. I recommend using GoTrip to book either a one-way or round-trip transfer. Having your own driver takes the pressure off and will give you the opportunity to explore more of the area and spend longer at the caves. GoTrip is a 24/7 door-to-door service. Tariffs are fixed in advance, and you can stop for photos anywhere you like along the way.

Hire a private driver for this route or use the GoTrip Trip Planner to create your own Tbilisi Vardzia itinerary.

Driving from Tbilisi to Vardzia

There are two ways to drive to Vardzia from Tbilisi: On the northern highway via Gori, Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe, or via the southern road through Kvemo Kartli and Samtskhe-Javakheti regions. I have driven both routes and although the main highway is slightly faster, I prefer the second option: It’s more scenic, less busy, and there are plenty of things to see and do along the way, including Paravani Lake and Gorelovka.

Kutaisi to Vardzia

An Akhaltsikhe-Abastumani van waiting for passengers at the Central Bus Station in Kutaisi.

An Akhaltsikhe-Abastumani van waiting for passengers at the Central Bus Station in Kutaisi.

Kutaisi is about the same distance from Vardzia as Tbilisi. It takes around 4-5 hours to reach the caves, travelling on the highway via Khashuri, Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe.

Because of the long travel times, it’s advisable to join a tour or hire a private driver if you only have a day to see Vardzia.

Kutaisi to Vardzia tour

Budget Georgia, my preferred tour company in Kutaisi, offers small group day trips to Vardzia, Borjomi and Rabati Fortress departing from Kutaisi. Tours are available throughout the year (including in winter). Check prices and availability here on Viator or book direct through the Budget Georgia website and save 10% when you mention Wander-Lush.

Kutaisi to Vardzia bus

There are four marshrutka vans from Kutaisi’s Central Bus Station to Akhaltsikhe, departing in the morning at approximately 8.20am, 9.30am, 11.30am and then at 1pm in the afternoon. Tickets cost 20 GEL, and the trip takes roughly 5 hours. Double check times locally. If you’re travelling in the late afternoon, you might have to change vans in Khashuri.

Kutaisi Central Bus Station is located on the western side of the Rioni near the McDonalds. See the exact location here. Once in Akhaltsikhe, you can connect to a Vardzia marshrutka or taxi as described above.

Kutaisi to Vardzia taxi

A private round-trip transfer to Borjomi, Rabati and Vardzia from Kutaisi with GoTrip takes 4 hours and starts from 100 USD per car. Find a private driver here.

Shared taxis to Akhaltsikhe are also available from Kutaisi Bus Station and cost around 25-35 GEL per person.

Driving from Kutaisi to Vardzia

There are two ways to drive to Vardzia from Kutaisi: Via the main highway through Khashuri, Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe or on the Zekari Pass via Abastumani and Sairme.

The second option is much more scenic (one of the most beautiful drives in Georgia, in fact) but you do need a car with high clearance or a 4WD to tackle the rough, unpaved road. This is only an option for summer – the Zekari Pass is closed during winter.

Batumi to Vardzia

People carry luggage around Batumi Intercity Bus Station in Batumi, Georgia.

Batumi Intercity Bus Station.

It takes around 6.5-7.5 hours to travel to Vardzia from Batumi by road via Zestafoni, Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe. There is a shorter route through Upper Adjara, but it takes just as long to travel due to the poor conditions.

It’s not possible to go to Vardzia from Batumi and back in a day unless you hire a driver, so if you’re travelling by marshrutka you’ll definitely need to spend the night in Akhaltsikhe or somewhere nearby.

Batumi to Vardzia bus

There are a handful of vans to Akhaltsikhe from Batumi every day, but it’s usually more convenient to take a van part-way and then transfer to a second marshrutka. The new east-west highway bypasses Kutaisi, therefore Khashuri is the best place to change vans. Buses travelling to Tbilisi from Batumi pass through Khashuri.

Marshrtuka vans depart from Batumi Intercity Bus Station on Mayakovsky Street (see the exact location here). It’s a tad chaotic and schedules are not signposted so you’ll need to check times and fares locally.

Batumi to Vardzia taxi

Round-trip transfers from Batumi to Vardzia, Rabati and Borjomi can be booked through GoTrip. Journey time is around 6.5-7 hours without stops. Find a private driver here.

Driving from Batumi to Vardzia

There are two ways to drive to Vardzia from Batumi: Via the new highway through Khashuri (this is the route marshrutka vans take) or via the Goderdzi Pass. The Goderdzi mountain road through Upper Adjara is extremely beautiful, but it requires a car with high clearance (ideally a 4WD) as it’s partially unpaved. As with the Zekari Pass, it might be closed off in winter.

The main road through Guria and Imereti is less spectacular but still very interesting.

Departing from Vardzia

A dog lying on the road in front of minivans to Akhaltsikhe at Vardzia cave city in Georgia.

Buses waiting at the entrance to Vardzia.

To travel back to Akhaltsikhe from Vardzia, marshrutka vans depart from the carpark near the entrance to the caves at 1pm and 3pm. Alternatively, you can walk out to the road and flag down any van travelling north. If you plan to travel back to Tbilisi or Kutaisi on the same day, make sure you don’t miss the last van.

Taxis can be difficult to come by. The Visitors Centre might be able to help, or you could pop into a nearby restaurant or guesthouse and ask someone to call a driver for you. Bolt app doesn’t work in this part of Georgia.

From Akhaltsikhe, you can then connect to buses bound for Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Borjomi, or even Gyumri or Yerevan.

Accommodation near Vardzia

If your plan is to stay in Akhaltsikhe, I highly recommend taking a room at Guesthouse Old Street. The location halfway between the bus station and Rabati Castle is perfect. The owners are very kind and the complimentary breakfast is terrific. Check rates and availability on Booking.com.

A quick 3-minute drive or 30-minute walk from the Vardzia caves ticket desk. Vardzia Resort is a great option if you want to stay close to the caves. Rooms and common spaces are beautifully decorated with antique kilims. There’s an outdoor pool and bicycles are available to hire. Check rates and availability on Booking.com.

If you have your own car or you don’t mind staying a bit further out, Guest House Aleksandre is a lovely little property in the village of Tmogvi, 6km north of Vardzia. Private rooms are very simple but cosy with ensuite bathrooms. Aleksandre and his wife are very accommodating hosts and can prepare amazing Meskhetian food for you. Check rates and availability on Booking.com.

More transport resources for Georgia

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