How to Travel From Tbilisi to Tusheti in 2024: Complete Guide (original) (raw)
Does the road to Tusheti live up to its reputation as one of the world’s most dangerous roads? What is the safest way to travel from Tbilisi to Tusheti in 2024, and how much does it cost? Read on to find out.
The remote mountain region of Tusheti is one of Georgia’s most spectacular, adventurous, and ‘untouched’ destinations. But it’s also one of the most difficult – and honestly the most dangerous – parts of the country to get to.
The road from Tbilisi to Tusheti.
Images of a perilously thin ribbon road etched into a vertical mountainside are enough to put many travellers off visiting the Tusheti Protected Areas.
Every summer, stories of fatal road accidents surface – and there are many more that never make the news. (You can see memorials and crosses dedicated to those who lost their lives scattered all along the road.)
Aside from the condition of the road itself, unpredictable weather and issues with drivers only complicate things further.
This journey should definitely be approached with caution and is not for the faint hearted. But if you do it the ‘right’ way, the drive from Tbilisi to Tusheti is definitely worth it.
With no public transport per se available, you must travel with a private vehicle (4WD). This might be the one place in Georgia where you won’t see a single Prius! Because of this, some basic advance planning is essential.
Having recently completed the journey myself, I decided to put together this comprehensive and realistic guide for Tusheti transport. I’ve also included tips for road safety, advice on where to stop along the way, plus my personal account of the drive so you have an idea of what to expect.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.
Note: I was invited to visit Tusheti as part of an agritourism project with Elkana and the FAO.
The road to Tusheti
The Tusheti road (officially the Pshaveli-Abano-Omalo road) starts from the lowlands of the Alazani Valley in Kakheti and finishes in the village of Omalo inside Tusheti National Park. It travels via the Abano Pass, a 2,826-metre / 9,272-foot high col.
Constructed in the 1980s and basically unchanged since then aside from some minor repairs, the road is narrow and unsealed. It traverses numerous tight switch-backs (some of which require reversing the car), passes over multiple cascading waterfalls, and is bordered by a mountain face that is constantly shedding slate rock and debris.
For a large part of the journey, the road has a steep drop-off on one side – meaning you look out into the abyss with nothing to break your fall.
The road to Tusheti.
Tusheti is a seasonal destination and the road is only open for a short window of time between early June and mid October. Outside of this period, there is simply too much snow and ice.
Latest updates: The road to Tusheti opened for the 2024 season on June 11, and was safe to travel from around June 16, 2024.
When planning your transport, it’s important to understand that the Tusheti Protected Areas is a vast landscape. You need to aim for a specific village. Omalo is the main population centre of Tusheti and one of the first settlements you reach upon entering the park. It’s a popular base for tourists, with a nice selection of guesthouses.
I personally preferred Dartlo and Dikhlo over Omalo – but for now, I will assume you’re travelling to Omalo.
Distance from Tbilisi to Tusheti
The distance from Tbilisi to Omalo is approximately 190 kilometres or 118 miles.
The distance to Omalo from Kvemo Alvani (the nearest major town at the bottom of the mountains) is 77 kilometres or 48 miles.
How long does it take to travel from Tbilisi to Tusheti?
The distance to Tusheti is actually not that far – but because of the road conditions, you can only travel at 20-30 km/h max.
The average travel time from Tbilisi to Tusheti is 7-8 hours, including 2-2.5 hours to get to Kvemo Alvani via the Gombori Pass, plus another 4.5-5 hours to reach Omalo.
From Kvemo Alvani, it takes around 3 hours to reach the Abano Pass, then another 2 hours to reach Omalo. Coming back to Kakheti from Tusheti, the trip down from the Abano Pass is slightly faster.
View from the Abano Pass. It’s all downhill from here!
The trip might be a lot slower than that depending on a number of factors, including weather and road conditions, the number of passing cars, and the type of vehicle you use.
You also need to factor in the number of pit stops you make along the way. When I travelled, the driver stopped every 20-30 minutes for a rest break – which is a very wise idea.
At the very least you’ll want to stop for a good half hour at the Abano Pass, the highest point on the drive and a very scenic lookout. If you’re taking a shared taxi, you’ll likely have to wait around in Alvani/Telavi for your transfer, so be sure to factor waiting times into your schedule.
An important note about road safety in Tusheti
The road to Tusheti is often named among the world’s most dangerous. I was extremely nervous about travelling to Tusheti, and to be completely honest, it was even worse than I imagined!
Having said that, it’s not really the road that makes Tusheti unsafe, it’s the drivers and the cars themselves. Very sadly there are fatal accidents every year (some of them involving tourists), and from what I understand, alcohol is almost always a factor. Several people have told me that some (but of course, not all) local drivers drink to settle their nerves.
Travelling in a properly equipped vehicle with a professional, sober driver makes all the difference. I was fortunate to go with a very attentive driver who has a lot of experience in Tusheti, having driven the pass dozens of times every season for the past 13 years.
Some people might tell you it’s safe to drive your own car to Tusheti. I disagree. I will discuss this more in detail later, but for now, my recommendation is to go with an experienced driver who has been referred to you.
A few days after I got back from Tusheti, the government announced a 100 million GEL project to upgrade the road by 2025. Hopefully this will lead to more improvements for locals and tourists alike.
How to travel from Tbilisi to Tusheti with a private driver
There are three options for getting to Tusheti: 1) Hire a private driver to pick you up from Tbilisi/Telavi/Alvani and take you to your guesthouse in Tusheti; 2) Make your own way to Alvani or Telavi and find a shared 4WD taxi; 3) Join an organised tour from Tbilisi with transfers included.
Approaching the first big waterfall on the road up to Omalo. This is one of the few concreted sections of road.
The easiest option is to hire a private driver. There are a few ways to do this: prebook on GoTrip, scout out a driver yourself, or ask your guesthouse in Omalo to organise a car for you.
As of summer 2024, you can now use GoTrip to travel between Tbilisi and Omalo. There are a (very) limited number of drivers on the platform for Tusheti, so I highly recommend booking your transfer as far in advance as possible. Click here to check prices.
On the road to Omalo.
Remember that if you start from Tbilisi, it will add an extra 2+ hours onto the journey. It’s more convenient to depart from Telavi or Alvani, so I suggest spending a night in the lowlands so that you can get an early start the next morning. See my list of things to do in Telavi.
I recommend you only travel with a driver who has been referred to you by someone who knows what they’re talking about. Either a professional driver who is experienced with the road, or a local driver who is recommended by your guesthouse. GoTrip vets their drivers and cars, and can be trusted.
I can personally recommend two drivers who were with us for our trip and are frequently used by NGOs. I don’t want to put their details here – email me if you want their info and I will happily put you in touch.
You also have the option to hire a car and driver for the entire duration of your trip, not just for a one-way transfer. This is definitely worth considering if you have limited time in Tusheti and you don’t plan to do much hiking.
How to travel from Tbilisi to Tusheti by marshrutka & 4WD taxi
Marshrutka vans do not travel to Tusheti. The closest thing to public transport is to take a shared 4WD. This is a more budget-friendly option, but it’s less convenient.
Step 1: Marshrutka or shared taxi from Tbilisi to Alvani or Telavi
All shared taxis to Tusheti depart from the lowlands of Kakheti, either from Telavi (the main city in the region) or from Alvani (a smaller town where many Tushetian families spend the winter).
More drivers depart from Alvani, so I recommend you go there. You might also be able to find a driver at Telavi Bus Station, but it’s possible they will take you to Alvani first and you’ll have to change cars anyway.
Heavy traffic on the Abano Pass.
The first step is to take a marshrutka or shared taxi from Tbilisi to Alvani. Vans are scheduled to depart from Central Bus Station at Ortachala three times per day, at 9am, 1.40pm and 4.10pm. If you are continuing to Tusheti on the same day, it is best to take the first van. Arrive early to secure a seat and buy your ticket from the box office before you board. The fare from Tbilisi to Alvani is 15 GEL.
Check the bus schedule in person in Tbilisi or on Biletebi. You can also use this website to pre-purchase tickets.
Travel time to Alvani is just over 2 hours via Telavi and the Gombori Pass. Alvani is split into two parts, Zemo (Upper) and Kvemo (Lower) Alvani. Shared 4WDs depart from Kvemo Alvani, so make sure you alight the marshrutka in the right place. (You should arrive in Kvemo Alvani first.)
Shared taxis from Tbilisi to Alvani depart from a different place: outside the Isani Metro Station (see this guide for pictures and more info). A shared taxi to Alvani should cost around 20 GEL per person and is slightly faster. When I recently travelled solo, I didn’t want to wait for other passengers, so I paid a bit extra (50 GEL total) for my own taxi that left immediately.
War memorial in Zemo Alvani.
Marshrutka vans to Telavi from Tbilisi are much more frequent, departing from Ortachala at 8.20am, 9am, 10.30am, 11.20am, 12pm, 12.50pm, 1.30pm, 2pm, 3.20pm, 4.15pm, 5pm, 5.45pm and 6.20pm. The fare is 12-15 GEL, and the travel time is 1.5 hours.
A shared taxi from Tbilisi to Telavi costs 20 GEL per person. Drivers depart from the same spot outside Isani Metro Station.
From Telavi, it is very easy to find a taxi driver to take you the rest of the way to Alvani. This takes about 30 minutes, and should cost around 10 GEL per person.
Our car waiting outside the market in Alvani.
Step 2: 4WD taxi to Omalo
Drivers wait to pick up passengers at the main junction in Kvemo Alvani. They time their departures to (roughly) coincide with marshrutka vans arriving in Alvani – thus they start to gather at around 11am, and the final taxis depart by 2/3pm.
I strongly recommend taking one of the early marshrutka vans from Ortachala. It is advisable to arrive in Alvani by 11.30am at the latest.
If you are spending the night in Alvani before heading up to Tusheti, ask your guesthouse to call the driver and reserve you a seat.
Alvani-Omalo taxi prices for the 2024 season are as follows:
- For the whole car: 500-650 GEL total
- For a seat in a shared car: 100-120 GEL per person
These prices are one-way, based on a 7-seater car that is full. In shoulder season (i.e. the few weeks before peak Tusheti travel time in August) you might be able to negotiate the price down to 75 GEL.
Return transfers from Omalo to Alvani are around the same price and can be booked through your guesthouse in Tusheti. Add an extra 20-30 GEL if your destination is Telavi.
In Alvani, there are a couple of small grocery shops plus a pharmacy and an ATM. This is the last ATM before Tusheti, so if you need to get cash out, do it here.
It’s also your last chance to buy snacks and personal items. There are a few shops in Tusheti, but they are not always open and when they are, prices are very high.
Once in Tusheti, the driver will leave you in Omalo. They may or may not drive you to your guesthouse.
Organised tours to Tusheti
There are a handful of operators in Tbilisi that organise group tours to Tusheti throughout the summer season. This is a great option for solo travellers, those who prefer to travel with a guide, and anyone who is on a budget (sharing transportation costs with others will bring down the cost significantly).
Friendly.ge, my preferred tour provider, holds 3-day Tusheti tours between mid-June and mid-September. They can also organise private tours on request. Check the program here, and use the promocode wanderlush to get 10% off your booking.
Should you drive your own car to Tusheti?
I do not recommend driving yourself to Tusheti unless you have extensive experience both with driving in Georgia, and with navigating mountain roads. There is no phone reception for much of the journey, so if something breaks, you need to know how to fix it yourself. You will also need to take an adequate amount of fuel with you (there are no petrol stations in Tusheti).
One of the trucks we encountered on the Abano Pass.
You cannot drive to Tusheti in a sedan. The road demands a 4WD with high clearance, either a Delica, a Jeep or similar.
Most rental car companies strictly prohibit driving to Tusheti. One company that will let you to take their off-road vehicles up to Tusheti is the Georgian-Polish Martyna z Gruzji. They have some of the best cars around, and terrific support. Mention Wander-Lush when you reserve a car online to get 10% off.
When I was in Tusheti, I saw quite a few people on the road in private vehicles (vans, trucks and campers). I also saw a couple of mountain bikers and dirt bike riders.
At the end of the day it’s your call, but I strongly advise against driving yourself to Tusheti. Note that most rental car agencies prohibit driving on this road.
Where to stop on the way to Omalo
Terrifying as it may be, the drive is obviously very scenic and you’ll want to stop for photos at every turn. Be very careful where you pull over – the road is narrow and sometimes there’s not enough room for another car to safely pass.
Alvani
It’s worth pointing out that Alvani is an interesting town with a couple of notable attractions. Most Tushetian families live in Alvani for part of the year, so you can find elements of Tush culture here: including a wool processing factory and several felt craft workshops.
In Alvani, I recommend staying at Veli Guest House.
The big waterfall
There are dozens of waterfalls on the road to Tusheti (literally – you have to drive over/through many of them!). Located an hour or so into the drive, this is one of the largest and most impressive. The road is concreted in this section and it’s safe to stop for photos.
See the exact location here.
Torghva Bath
Located off the road in Chkhatana, this humble bathhouse is fed by natural hot water springs. Entry costs around 10 GEL.
See the exact location here.
The Abano Pass
The highlight of the journey to Tusheti is crossing the Abano Pass. At 2,826 metres or 9,272 feet, it’s the highest part of the road.
There is a big, flat area where you can safely park your car, and several trails that lead off to higher viewpoints for a look down at the winding road on either side of the mountain. There is also a small (unfinished) church, and a series of sign boards with information about the National Park.
See the exact location here.
Church on the Abano Pass.
Khiso Green Lake
This small lake was formed several years ago when part of the road collapsed into the river. You can swim here if you wish.
See the exact location here.
Rangers’ hut & Tusheti Protected Areas’ Visitors Centre
After you make your way down the pass, you will come to a stone ranger’s hut on the side of the road. There is a public bathroom here and some nice views of the river and forest. The hut was unmanned at the time of my visit, but later in the season you might be able to access maps or information here.
The better option is to visit the Tusheti Protected Areas’ Visitors Centre, located just off the main road in Lower Omalo. Giorgi Bakuridze is the head of the centre and is extremely helpful. Inside the building there is a museum with some nice exhibits about local flora and fauna, and a small gift shop. You can pick up a trail map here for around 7 GEL.
See the exact location here.
Alternative ways to get to Tusheti
If you don’t like the sound of travelling to Tusheti by road, there are several other ways to reach the park.
It’s possible to hike to Tusheti from neighbouring Khevsureti region. The marked trail between Shatili and Omalo via the Atsunta Pass takes 5 days to complete and requires camping.
It’s also possible to travel by horseback starting from Pankisi Valley. The journey takes around 5 days. Nazy at Nazy’s Guest House can help you organise a guided horse trek. See more information here.
Another alternative way to get to Tusheti is by following the transhumance in late May. Shepherds take different, narrower and steeper paths as they travel from the lowlands up to Tusheti for the start of the summer grazing season. Some tour companies organise guided transhumance experiences.
Transport in Tusheti (getting around Tusheti)
There is no public transport in Tusheti. If you are visiting without your own car/driver (and you don’t plan to hike from village to village), then you will need to organise taxi transfers through your guesthouses.
You need some serious tyres to get around Tusheti.
You might be able to hitchhike on some roads – but I don’t necessarily recommend getting into a car with an unfamiliar driver for reasons outlined above.
The roads around Tusheti between the villages are just as perilous as the road up (in some cases they are even more nail-biting) so remember to keep road safety front of mind.
Tusheti to Tbilisi (the return trip)
Unless you have a private driver, you will need to do this journey in several stages.
Start with a private or shared taxi to Kvemo Alvani. The price is the same, and your guesthouse in Tusheti can help you organise a driver if you don’t already have someone locked in. Most drivers depart from Omalo, so if you are staying in another village, you will need to make your way back there first.
From Kvemo Alvani, you can continue directly to Tbilisi or travel through Kakheti.
There are frequent vans to Tbilisi from Telavi (see more details and prices in this Kakheti transport guide), so one option is to take a taxi to Telavi Bus Station. The trip is around 30 minutes and should cost around 20-25 GEL.
Or if the timing is right, you can take a direct van to Tbilisi from Kvemo Alvani. Currently there are at least 3 vans daily, including one that departs Alvani at 2pm.
What is the Tusheti road like? My personal experience & what to expect
On the day of my fateful trip to Tusheti we departed from Alvani at 9.45am. The first part of the drive took us through thick rainforest – it wasn’t anything like what I was expecting, and I was thinking to myself, ‘Hey, this isn’t so bad!’
As we left Lechuri and the last signs of humanity (a pair of hitchhikers) behind, the road turned into a gravely mess. Travelling at the end of an unseasonably wet June, we started passing under small waterfalls, hugging the cliff wall. When we made our first stop at the big waterfall to stretch our legs, I had a huge smile on my face and a spring in my step. The first part of the drive was exhilarating and I was on a massive high.
After the waterfall, the trees got more and more sparse and it was at this point I started to realise how high we actually were. Thankfully it was pretty misty so I couldn’t see all the way down into the valley below, but it was obvious that we were driving along a very steep ridge with a sheer drop-off on our left-hand side. Half a dozen motorbikes and a Mitsubishi Canter passed us.
After the turn-off for the Torghva Bath, the landscape quickly turned from forest to grassland and the road started to look more like the tightly wound serpentine I had seen in photos. This middle part was the scariest section of road for me.
We reached the Abano Pass at around 12.30pm.
A misty morning on the Abano Pass.
After submitting the pass, we made our way down the other side of the mountain into the valley. Again, we found ourselves on a snaking road, but this time it was much less steep. We followed the river for around 40 minutes, then reached the ranger’s hut and information point. Every now and then little yellow bobcats appeared on the side of the road, taking their rest after a long morning of clearing fallen rock.
It was still very chilly in late June and we saw plenty of winter remnants on the road: big sections of dirty brown ice. At one point we even drove through an ice tunnel.
At around 2pm after a second steep climb, we caught sight of the first settlement, Khiso. The drawbridge over the river was hanging forlornly, signalling that the residents of this village hadn’t yet arrived for the season.
Out of nowhere a pair of shepherds on horseback appeared with a small herd of cattle. They were leading their animals to higher pastures, where the better-quality summer grass produces fattier milk – ideal for making cheese. On the opposite mountain face we could just make out the fine ridge tracks used by shepherds during the transhumance. Those who make this journey every year must know all the shortcuts.
We rounded a bend and the next village, Kumelautra, came into view. Nothing more than a dozen houses clinging to the green mountainside, it looked completely picturesque. Then we started moving up again, the final ascent into Lower Omalo. By 2.30pm we were safe and sound inside our guesthouse.
The next day, we continued west, deeper into the mountains to visit Jvarboseli village. This drive was even more nail biting! The roads to Diklo and Dartlo, by contrast, are much less steep.
The ‘road’ in Jvarboseli.
I am very risk-averse and hyper-vigilant when it comes to road safety in Georgia (in case you couldn’t tell). All in all, the drive to Tusheti was a pretty anxiety-inducing experience for me – and I was travelling with a very attentive driver. There’s no way I would do this trip with just any driver, and there’s no way I would ever be brave enough to drive myself.
One good thing is that there aren’t many other cars. Encountering oncoming traffic was another of the scariest parts, and unfortunately we did meet a lot of other cars when we were coming back down to Alvani.
Less than an hour after arriving at our guesthouse in Omalo someone asked me if I would be coming back to Tusheti. I didn’t hesitate in answering ‘No’. The drive was fresh in my memory, and based on the realities of the road alone, it’s not a journey I would want to make again.
Now that a few weeks have passed and I’ve had time to reflect on all the wonderful things I saw and did in Tusheti, I’m more open to the idea of going back. There is no safe way to travel to Tusheti – but if you do everything you can to mitigate your risk, I do think it’s worth it.
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