10 Best Things to Do in Samtskhe-Javakheti Region, Georgia (original) (raw)

Mystical, mysterious, magnetic – these are the words I associate with Samtskhe-Javakheti.

Most travellers will never utter the name of this region in central-south Georgia (to be fair, it is a mouthful). But many are familiar with its big ticket destinations – Borjomi, Akhaltsikhe Castle (AKA Rabati Fortress), Vardzia cave city, and Bakuriani ski resort.

One of my favourite offbeat places in Georgia, the mountain resort and scientific outpost of Abastumani, is also located here.

As with everywhere in Georgia, there is a lot more to discover in this region beyond its star attractions.

Georgia's Paravani Lake at dusk, with volcanic mountains in the distance and purple wildflowers.

Lake Paravani is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Samtskhe-Javakheti.

Samtskhe-Javakheti’s ethnic diversity and unique history makes it one of the best places in Georgia for gastronomic experiences and cultural encounters, while dramatic landscapes that vary from sweeping volcanic plateaus and gemstone lakes to high mountains offer all kinds of outdoor adventures, from birding to whitewater rafting and hiking.

The many castles, caves and cyclopean fortresses dotted around Samtskhe-Javakheti reflect the region’s past, while new tourism initiatives spearheaded by often unexpected characters – monks, nuns and ethnic minority communities as well as local entrepreneurs – speak to its vision for the future.

I have visited Samtskhe-Javakheti dozens of times now, and with each trip my affinity for this area grows. Most recently I was invited to participate in a press trip with Samtskhe-Javakheti DMO where I was introduced to a score of places well and truly off the tourist trail.

This guide to Samtskhe-Javakheti is based on my travels over the past three years. It covers my favourite things to see and do beyond Vardzia, Akhaltiskhe, Borjomi and Abastumani, and includes travel tips for planning a visit.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Transparency: I visited some of the places mentioned in this guide on a press trip organised and funded by Samtskhe-Javakheti DMO. I was not paid nor was I required to write this guide. All opinions and recommendations are my own.

Briefly about Samtskhe-Javakheti

Located in the south of Georgia and bordering on Turkey and Armenia, Samtskhe-Javakheti is an administrative region that covers three historical provinces: Meskheti, Javakheti and Tori. Its position at the frontier between Georgia and the Ottoman Empire has influenced everything from the architecture to the cuisine.

Samtskhe-Javakheti is defined by its landscape. Tori (the territory around present-day Borjomi) is lush and green, while Meskheti comprises scoring gorges and mountain peaks. Javakheti, an elevated volcanic plateau in the region’s south, is perhaps the most impressive.

A green river landscape with farmland and terrace vineyards in Southern Georgia.

A river gorge in Samtskhe-Javakheti.

This area is also incredibly rich in terms of culture. Armenian families settled in the region in the 1820s and today, they make up at least half of the population. Like in Kvemo Kartli region, Russian is the lingua franca (although there are programs to help Armenians learn Georgian).

Emigres from Svaneti, Adjara and other parts of Georgia, plus small ethnic groups including the Doukhobors, add to the mix.

Most fascinating of all are the Meskhetian Turks, who have likely inhabited this territory since the 12th century. Meskheti once stretched all the way to Kars and Artvin in Turkey and took in part of Armenia’s Shirak Province. During the Soviet period, Meskhetian Turks and other minorities were deported from Georgia and exiled to Central Asia. Most never returned, but their traditions live on.

Today, Samtskhe-Javakheti is known for its vernacular architecture, including its Darbazuli Sakhi ‘hall houses’, its distinctive food scene including tenili cheese, apokhti and other delicacies, and for its wild and untamed landscapes, from the Javakheti Plateau’s 70-plus lakes to the verdant Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park.

Visit Saro, my favourite village in Meskheti

An ancient church framed by lichen-coloured boulders in Saro.

Archangel Church of Saro.

A small village in the heart of Meskheti, roughly halfway between Vardzia and Akhaltiskhe, Saro sits high on a ridge above the Chobaretiskhevi River. Surrounded by wide valleys and scattered with huge volcanic stone slabs, Saro has an enigmatic allure about it that is hard to put into words.

At its centre, the 7th-century Archangel Church of Saro is a small chapel with a collection of ancient icons and standard bearer flags. The resident nuns, Sister Teona and her colleagues, are very gregarious and always eager to show visitors around. Purchase something from their small gift shop as a sign of support.

A woman seated on a rock overlooking the river valley in Saro, Georgia.

Saro.

All around the church, huge volcanic rocks plastered with rust-coloured lichen lay about. These are the remains of Cyclopean fortresses, some of an estimated 1,000 Bronze Age megalithic structures located around Samtskhe-Javakheti.

Behind the church you will also see several Darbazuli Sakhi ‘hall houses’. This regional style of architecture features a pyramid-like ceiling made of interlocked pieces of timber. The house has one central hall and no windows – the only source of light is the opening at the top of the roof. Locals call these ‘swallow’s ceilings’ because birds often make their nests in the corners.

The houses are a bit tricky to spot because they are subterranean and covered with a turf roof. There is one abandoned house behind the church, and several more lived-in Meskhuri odas in the village.

A woman welcomes tourists into her home in Saro, Georgia.

Visiting a traditional Meskhetian oda house in Saro.

On my last visit, I was lucky enough to meet Meri who welcomed us into her parents’ oda. The main hall of their house has a beautiful swallow’s ceiling painted in blue.

Plan your visit: The road into Saro village is sealed. Parking is available at the church. There are several megalithic ruins in its vicinity, or you can explore more of the area by walking the 2.2 kilometre Saro-Nijgori trail.

Hike to Shaori Fortress, a megalithic ruin above Paravani Lake

The gate to Shaori Fortress, a megalithic site in Samtskhe-Javakheti.

Shaori Fortress.

Samtskhe-Javakheti has two major Bronze Age archaeological sites at Abuli and Shaori. Despite their importance, full excavations have never taken place – so their origins remain largely a mystery.

Shaori Fortress, a Cyclopean-style fortress assembled from giant basalt blocks, is the more accessible of the two and can be reached by hiking from Tambovka village on the northern edge of Paravani Lake. The trail takes 3-4 hours return from the foot of the mountain and is marked with a combination of painted flags and stone posts.

A pile of stones marks the pathway to Shaori Fortress in Georgia.

Hiking on Shaori Mountain.

Believed to have been constructed around 2000 BC, Shaori Fortress was either a strategic outpost or a sacred burial site. Interestingly, its main entrance faces the direction of the sun on solstice days, spurring the theory that it could have been a temple.

Much of the hike up to the mountain peak involves scrambling over large, uneven rocks. Every step is an adventure, thus the route is only suitable for those with good mobility and a keen sense of balance.

Plan your visit: Tambovka, the starting point for the hike, is located 50 minutes from Ninotsminda. Organise to be dropped off at the base of the mountain and commence the climb from there, or add another. See my detailed guide to the Shaori Fortress hike for more tips.

Learn about Doukhobor culture in Gorelovka and Tambovka

A blue house in Gorelovka village.

A painted flower design decorates a Doukhobor house in Gorelovka, Georgia.

Samtskhe-Javakheti is home to several ethnic minority communities, none of them more intriguing than the Doukhobors.

A Christian sect that originated in the Russian Empire during the 18th century, the Doukhobors were prosecuted and eventually exiled for their beliefs. Around 70 families ended up re-settling in Georgia, establishing six villages in the far south. Most left for Canada at the turn of the 20th century, but around 130 people stayed behind.

Today, most of Georgia’s Doukhobor families live in Gorelovka, close to the Armenian border. They speak Russian and uphold many of the traditions of their ancestors.

Like the other villages, Gorelovka was built virtually from scratch by the first Doukhobor settlers. Their vernacular architecture, characterised by blue wooden fretwork and painted floral motifs, has become an Instagram icon in recent years.

Driving through Gorelovka and Tambovka, a second Doukhobor village on the edge of Paravani Lake (where the Shaori Fortress hike commences from), you can spot beautiful houses with delicate woodwork, painted shutters and insulating turf roofs.

A painted blue Doukhobor house in Tambovka village.

A Doukhobor house in Tambovka.

The Doukhobor complex in Gorelovka, which includes a former orphanage, is a sacred spiritual place. Every Sunday, people gather here dressed in brightly coloured costumes to commune.

Traditionally, the Doukhobors have been quite closed off. Now several people from within the community are starting projects and businesses to teach other Georgians and tourists about their history in a sustainable and responsible way.

A man explains the history of the Doukhobors in Georgia inside the blue house in Gorelovka.

Uri, our guide in Gorelovka.

Uri is one such man. On my last visit, he showed us inside the main hall where hand-embroidered prayer sashes hang from the walls. Inside a second room with a big Russian oven, we browsed through ceremonial garments for weddings and other celebrations. Afterwards, he welcomed us back to his family home for a delicious feast.

Plan your visit: Visitors are free to enter the yard of the so-called ‘Doukhobor House’ in Gorelovka. You cannot go inside any of the buildings unaccompanied. Please remember that this is a sacred site – treat the area with respect. To arrange a guided visit with Uri and/or a meal at his home in a neighbouring village, contact the Samtskhe-Javakheti DMO.

Make tenili cheese at Chobareti Meskhetian House

Two women making tenili cheese in Meskheti in front of a stone fireplace.

Making tenili cheese.

Meskhetian cuisine is a delicious symphony of salt, dough and fat. Apart from being rich and delicious, there is a very practical reason for this: In the past, war was always knocking on this region’s door, and families had to be able to sustain themselves during long periods under siege. Dehydrated, salted and preserved foods that could be easily carried and stored became popular as a result.

Some examples of this are apokhti, a jerky-style dried meat (beef, pork, goose) that can be eaten by itself or stuffed in dough to make tiny Meskhetian-style khinkali; kada, a sweet-salty bread made with nuts; and arishta, dehydrated noodles.

A woman preparing bread dough on a wooden table inside a Meskhetian oda house.

An ancient bronze jug on a table.

Another Meskhetian delicacy that many families eat on a daily basis is lokokina or snails. It’s believed that escargot was first introduced to the area by Capuchin missionaries.

Out of all of Meskheti’s gastronomic treasures, tenili cheese takes pride of place. This special type of ‘string’ cheese is made by softening curds in hot water and spinning and stretching them until they form fine strands. It’s an ancient (and agonising) technique that only a few households and cottage producers still practice today.

A bowl of tenili cheese on a wooden table.

Threads of tenili cheese hanging from a wooden pole inside a traditional oda house in Samtskhe-Javakheti, Georgia.

On a previous visit to SJ, I saw tenili cheese-making in Andriatsminda. Recently I was invited to Meskhetian House in Chobareti, an ethno project run by Aluda Jvaridze and his family, who offer tourists tenili masterclasses and generous Meskhetian feasts.

They have two traditional oda houses on their property, one that is 300 years old and another newer house with a kitchen and traditional Meskhuri oven. Natia demonstrated the art of tenili cheese making for us before we sat down to a Meskhetian feast.

Plan your visit: Masterclasses and meals are by appointment only. Contact the family directly on Facebook or via the DMO to arrange a booking. No English is spoken, so it’s best to go with a guide.

Drink Meskhetian wine at Ude Monastery

A group of people gathered around a table at Ude Monastery, with one of the nuns, Sister Tamari, at the head of the table.

Wine tasting at Ude Monastery.

Kakheti and Imereti might be Georgia’s most prominent wine regions, but grapes are cultivated all across the country – including in Meskheti. One tradition that is particular to this region is the terraced vineyards that creep up the steep river banks, reminiscent in some ways of Portugal’s Douro Valley.

A lot of the vineyards are dormant, but more and more vintners are starting to revive SJ’s winemaking traditions by re-cultivating local grapes including Chitistvala, Chitiskvertskha and Meskhuri Mtsvane.

For an unusual and memorable wine experience, sign up for a tasting at Ude Monastery. This Orthodox complex close to the Turkish border is led by a Father who is known for being open-minded and has introduced a bunch of interesting initiatives to help bring the public closer to the church. The nuns and monks at Ude grow all their own food (including wheat), make their own wine from Meskhetian grapes, and even run a snail farm. They offer gastronomic experiences to tourists, and soon they will open their own shop in Tbilisi.

An ancient stone church in Samtskhe-Javakheti.

An engraved cross on a small chapel in southern Georgia.

A visit starts with a tour of the demure 6th-7th century church before sitting down for food and wine. We had Deda Tamari, one of Ude’s seven Sisters, as our tamada toastmaster.

It’s not every day that a nun serves you wine… And to prove just how open-minded they are, Deda Tamari brought out sweet and sour pork for our main course! We also tried lots of local specialties including tenili cheese and apokhti.

Nearby Zarzma Monastery has a similar philosophy and also welcomes guests to drink wine and feast. Sadly it was closed at the time of my most recent visit, but I will be back!

Plan your visit: Ude Monastery is located 30 minutes’ drive from Akhaltsikhe. To arrange a wine tasting or meal, reach them directly via phone (details here) or contact the DMO.

Sip qvevri beer at Amphora Beer

A man fills a glass with qvevri beer from a tap at his bar in Georgia.

Two glasses of qvevri Georgian beer on a table.

Run by entrepreneur and expert agriculturalist Zaza Zedgenidze, Amphora Beer is a rather unusual microbrewery in Aspindza. Inspired by Georgia’s wine-making heritage and motivated by his love of ludi, Zaza brews ales using the same 8,000-year-old technology as his forbearing vintners – that is to say, he makes beer in clay qvevri!

Zaza’s German and Belgian-style lagers are made on Georgian hops foraged from over the back fence and local wheat varieties such as red Doli. The interaction with clay gives the beer an earthiness and pleasant twang.

Inside the tap room at Amphora Beer, a beer tasting bar in Georgia.

The tap room at Amphora Beer.

Amphora Beer also offers lunch and dinner. We had an absolute feast here – on the menu was snails (the perfect beer snack) and a chakapuli-style dish of beef slow-cooked in beer with tarragon in a clay ketsi pan sealed with a clay lid.

Amphora Beer also has a small guest house, an outdoor pool, and a beer spa. Guests get unlimited beer on tap!

Plan your visit: Amphora Beer is located halfway between Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe. Guesthouse reservations can be made via Booking.com. Beer tastings (from 30 GEL) and meals can be arranged via Facebook or phone. Zaza speaks perfect English and will walk you through the entire brewing process, which all takes place on the property.

Birdwatch on the lakes in Javakheti

View of Tabatskhuri village from afar, with the lake in full view.

Tabatskhuri Lake.

There are more than 70 lakes of different shapes and sizes in Javakheti. Each one of them is special in some way, and all of them are crucially important to Georgia’s biodiversity.

The Javakheti Protected Areas are an important nesting ground for both resident and migratory birds. Dozens of different species come and go from the lakes, nesting at different times of year, with spring and autumn being the peak seasons for bird watching.

An upturned wooden boat in tall grass on the edge of Tabatskuri Lake in Georgia.

A street art mural depicting endangered ducks at Tabatskuri Lake in Georgia.

Even if you’re not into birding, hopping between Javakheti’s dazzling lakes is an absolute must. Some you will encounter as you drive around the region – the main highway passes by Paravani Lake, the biggest lake in Georgia by surface area, while others require a bit more work to access.

My favourite lakes in Samtskhe-Javakheti with exquisite scenery are Bughdasheni Lake, Madatapa Lake and Tabatskuri Lake. There are a range of ways to explore, including hiking, bike trails, and boat trips.

For more tips for exploring this area, see my guide to the Javakheti Plateau and Tsalka.

Plan your visit: Start at the Javakheti Protected Areas Administration office in Akhalkalaki, where staff can assist you with maps, mountain bike rentals, camping gear, and other equipment.

Shop for artisanal products at Poka St. Nino Convent

Beautifully packaged chocolates for sale at the nun's shop at Poka St Nino Convent in Georgia.

Artisanal and handmade souvenirs for sale at the Poka St Nino Convent in Georgia.

Located on the southern tip of Paravani Lake, Poka St. Nino Convent is a must-see in Samtskhe-Javakheti. Like at Ude, the seven resident nuns here grow all their own food. They also prepare an incredible array of jams, preserves, spice mixes, chocolate bars and natural tinctures using local honey, bee products, alpine herbs, and other botanicals.

Their recently renovated convent includes a souvenir shop where you can purchase all kinds of artisanal and gourmet goodies for your kitchen pantry or beauty cabinet. They also have handmade ceramics, textiles, and other gifts.

A small pink stone church on the edge of Paravani Lake in Georgia.

The church at Poka St. Nino Convent.

The Sisters know everything about local flora and recently published a book on the subject that will be translated into English in the near future.

Plan your visit: Note that there are two pins for the convent on Google Maps – the correct location is here. The shop at Poka St. Nino is open daily from 10am-6pm. While you’re in the area, also visit the nearby lakeside church and chapel.

Raft on the Mtkvari River near Borjomi

With so many mountain rivers, there are ample opportunities for watersports in Georgia. There are a dozen or so rafting outfits in the Borjomi area alone.

I can personally recommend Tengo’s rafting camp, Extreme Rafting in Georgia, which is located in Chitakhevi upriver from Borjomi. Tengo is a certified rafting guide who has undertaken several training courses. He has high quality, professional gear including life jackets and helmets, and provides a full safety briefing before you set out.

A short rafting expedition covers 9 kilometres, taking around an hour. There are several places to stop on the river including one swinging rope and a couple of points that are suitable for swimming.

The water in this part of the river is relatively gentle, but Tengo and his guides throw in some moves to make things more fun – spinning the raft and leaning into dips. I haven’t been on a raft since I was a kid so I was a bit nervous, but I found the speed and level of action was perfect for a beginner. When you reach the riverbank, a van is waiting to take you back to the start point.

Rafting season lasts from April to September, with conditions gradually becoming more gentle into the autumn months.

Plan your visit: Tengo’s rafting centre is located in Chitakhevi, 15 minutes’ drive from Borjomi. Expeditions start from 60 GEL per person and should be pre-booked via phone or on the website.

Explore Samtskhe-Javakheti’s many fortresses

Khertvisi Fortress, an impressive stone fortification in Samtskhe-Javakheti region.

Khertvisi Fortress.

In addition to the megalithic fortresses of Shaori and Abuli, Samtskhe-Javakheti is dotted with more traditional medieval fortifications. The striking terrain in this region, especially the sheer river gorges, means that the fortresses here are among the most impressive and picturesque in all of Georgia.

The recently restored Khertvisi Fortress near Vardzia is one of the most accessible. It cuts a spectacular figure when viewed from the side of the highway and is equally impressive up close.

The interior has been excavated and is empty, but there are several points where you can climb the walls for a view. In the future higher viewpoints will be launched.

The nearby Tmogvi Fortress is linked to Shota Rustaveli and his epic The Knight in the Panther’s Skin. It is more remote and requires a 4WD and challenging hike to reach.

Smaller fortifications including Akhalkalaki Castle and Aspindza Fortress have less dramatic locations but might also be worth visiting if you are particularly interested in medieval castle architecture.

Plan your visit: Khertvisi Fortress is open to visitors from 10am until 6pm daily. Entrance costs 5 GEL.

Planning a visit to Samtskhe-Javakheti

Tourism is still developing in Samtskhe-Javakheti, especially outside the main tourist hubs. There are plenty of guesthouses, hotels and restaurants around, but getting from place to place is tricky because transport connections are fairly limited.

For this reason, I recommend hiring a car for Samtskhe-Javakheti.

As an example itinerary, you might start from Akhaltsikhe and spend a few nights in this area exploring Saro, Chobareki, and the monasteries and castles. You could then make your way south towards the lakes, detour up to Paravani and Shaori Fortress, then continue towards Tbilisi via Tsalka.

This region fits nicely into a cross-country road trip from Tbilisi to Batumi or vice versa. I did exactly this a few summers ago. See my Georgia road trip itinerary for more ideas and tips.

How to get to Samtskhe-Javakheti

Akhaltsikhe is the biggest city in Samtskhe-Javakheti and the main transportation hub. Marshrutka vans from Tbilisi (3.5 hours), Kutaisi (4 hours) and Batumi (6 hours) are available throughout the day.

See this transportation guide for a full explanation of how to get to Akhaltsikhe.

The mountain road between Batumi and Akhaltsikhe via the Goderdzi Pass is unsealed and quite rough. (As of summer 2023, there are roadworks going on to repair the road.) For this reason, marshrutka vans coming from the coast use the main highway through Zestafoni.

If you plan to self-drive the pass, you must ensure you have the proper gear including a car with high clearance (4WD preferred). Check road conditions locally before you set off. Find more tips for driving in Georgia here.

If you are short on time and you don’t have your own transportation, consider organising a driver. Hire a private car through GoTrip.ge, or sign up for this day trip from Tbilisi that covers Vardzia, Rabati Fortress, plus several alternative destinations mentioned here.

How to get around

Samtskhe-Javakheti is definitely a place where you need your own transportation. Marshrutkas between towns/villages and local taxis are available – but relying on them will significantly limit how much you can see and do.

I highly recommend self-driving in this area. Majority of the roads are sealed and in fairly good condition (including the roads to all destinations mentioned in this guide).

As always, I suggest using Local Rent to find a hire car. Pick up/drop off is available from cities across Georgia, including Borjomi.

If hiring a car is not an option, Akhaltsikhe has a well-organised bus station with timetables and fares posted at the ticket counter. Staff at the Tourist Information Office inside Akhaltsikhe Castle can assist you with more information about getting around. From there, your guestshouses will be able to assist with planning onward connections.

Best time to visit Samtskhe-Javakheti

The best time to visit Samtskhe-Javakheti is either in spring or autumn. If you are focusing on Javakheti and the lakes, summer is a fine time to go – even in the middle of July the weather is mild. You will need a warm jacket at the very least and ideally layers to combat the wind. Be sure to pack accordingly.

Because of its high elevation, Javakheti sees extremely cold, protracted winters. The frozen lakes and snowy landscapes are breathtaking, but the harsh conditions make it tricky to get around.

Meskheti, by contrast, has a warmer climate. I suggest avoiding this area during peak summer as it can be brutally hot.

Spring brings wild orchids and other flowers to the plains around Tabatskuri, and fields of poppies to the river banks around Vardzia. Autumn (especially October) sees fall colours take over some parts of the region.

Where to stay in Samtskhe-Javakheti

There are several accommodation centres across Samtskhe-Javakheti that you can plan your itinerary around.

Akhaltsikhe has a good range of guesthouses and hotels. I always stay at Old Street, at the foot of the castle. If you want to spend more time in the Vardzia/Khertvisi/Tmogvi area, there are several options close to the caves, including the popular Vardzia Resort.

Ninotsminda is a suitable base for exploring the lakes in the southern part of the region. I have stayed at and can recommend Sonya, a comfortable hotel in the town centre.

Family Corner in Gandzani is located between Saghamo and Paravani Lakes. The owners, a wonderful Armenian family, offer transfers, bike hire, and other services. Rooms are comfortable and the home-cooked meals are splendid.

What & where to eat in Samtskhe-Javakheti

As I already alluded to above, SJ has one of the most distinguished local cuisines in Georgia. Don’t miss the chance to sample special foods such as apokhti, kada, Meskhuri khachapuri, snails and fresh lake trout.

See my full guide to Meskhetian cuisine for suggestions on what to eat and my favourite restaurants and foodie experiences in the region.

More ideas for Samtskhe-Javakheti