pH-induced modifications to stratum corneum lipids investigated using thermal, spectroscopic, and chromatographic techniques (original) (raw)
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Existence of a lipid gradient in the upper stratum corneum and its possible biological significance
Archives For Dermatological Research, 1997
The internal stratum corneum lipid composition was investigated in relation to depth in vivo in healthy human volunteers by extraction following one, three or five strippings. Automated multiple development high-performance thin-layer chromatography (AMD-HPTLC) and gas chromatography (GC) followed by normalized principal component analysis showed a decrease in the amount of lipids extracted after one, three and five strippings. Between levels 0, 1, 3 and 5 the stratum corneum lipid composition showed an increase in phospholipids and cholesterol-3-sulphate at level 3, a decrease in ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids after level 1, and a slight decrease in sterol esters at level 3. Lipids extracted after three strippings displayed a characteristic composition with an increase in the proportion of phospholipids and cholesterol-3-sulphate. Free fatty acid analysis in relation to depth revealed a decrease in the amounts of C14:0, C16:0, C16:1, C18:0 and C18:1 between levels 1 and 5 and an increase in the C24:0. A decrease in the unsaturated/ saturated chain ratio with depth was also observed, reflecting a greater decrease in unsaturated than saturated free fatty acids. A decrease in the ratios of free fatty acids to cholesterol and free fatty acids to ceramides after three and five strippings, respectively, and previously reported results, confirm the importance of this level of stratum corneum lipids in skin barrier properties.
Molecular organization of the lipid matrix in intact Stratum corneum using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy
Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 2008
ATR-FTIR spectroscopy is useful in investigating the lateral organization of Stratum corneum (SC) lipids in full-thickness skin. Based on studies of the thermotropic phase transitions in n-tricosane and in excised human skin, the temperature dependence of the CH 2 scissoring bandwidth emerged as a measure of the extent of orthorhombic and hexagonal phases. This dependence provides a simpler measure of the lateral order in lipid assemblies than the common spectroscopic approaches based on difference spectra, curve fitting of the CH 2 scissoring region, and the position of the CH 2 stretching vibrations. It has the advantages of ease of determination, relatively low variability, and high discriminative power for the type of lateral intermolecular chain packing. A comparison of the lateral organization of the lipids at the SC surface of mammalian skin using the scissoring bandwidth revealed considerable differences between human abdominal skin (containing mostly orthorhombic phases), porcine ear skin (containing mostly hexagonal phases), and reconstructed human epidermis (containing mostly disordered phases). This parameter also correctly described the different effects of propylene glycol (minimally disturbing) and oleic acid (formation of a highly disordered phase) on the SC lipids in excised human skin. The procedure described here is applicable to in vivo studies in the areas of dermatology, transdermal drug delivery, and skin biophysics.
Human stratum corneum lipids: characterization and regional variations
The lipids of mammalian stratum corneum are known to be important regulators of skin permeability. Since the human stratum corneum displays remarkable regional variations in skin permeability, we assessed the total lipid con- centration, the distribution of all major lipid species, and the fatty acid composition in Bligh-Dyer extracts from four skin sites (abdomen, leg, face, and sole) that are known to display widely disparate permeability. Statistically significant differ- ences in lipid weight were found at the four sites that were inversely proportional to their known permeability. In all four sites, among the polar lipids, the stratum corneum contained negligible phospholipids, but substantially more cholesterol sulfate (1-7%) than previously appreciated. As in the stratum corneum from other mammals, the bulk of the lipids consisted of neutral (60-80%) and sphingolipids (1 5-35%). Of the neu- tral lipids, free sterols (4- to 5-times greater than esterified sterols), free fatty ...
Increased Presence of Monounsaturated Fatty Acids in the Stratum Corneum of Human Skin Equivalents
Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2013
Previous results showed that our in-house human skin equivalents (HSEs) differ in their stratum corneum (SC) lipid organization compared with human SC. To elucidate the cause of the altered SC lipid organization in the HSEs, a recently developed liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry method was used to study the free fatty acid (FFA) and ceramide composition in detail. In addition, the SC lipid composition of the HSEs and human skin was examined quantitatively with high-performance thin-layer chromatography. Our results reveal that all our HSEs have an increased presence of monounsaturated FFAs compared with human SC. Moreover, the HSEs display the presence of ceramide species with a monounsaturated acyl chain, which are not detected in human SC. All HSEs also exhibit an altered expression of stearoyl-CoA desaturase, the enzyme that converts saturated FFAs to monounsaturated FFAs. Furthermore, the HSEs show the presence of 12 ceramide subclasses, similar to native human SC. However, the HSEs have increased levels of ceramides EOS and EOH and ceramide species with short total carbon chains and a reduced FFA level compared with human SC. The presence of unsaturated lipid chains in HSE offers new opportunities to mimic the lipid properties of human SC more closely.
European Journal of Mass Spectrometry, 2018
The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, is the most important skin barrier against exogenous physical and chemical effects, in addition to protecting against dehydration. Ceramides are integral parts of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum and play an important role in the barrier function of mammalian skin. Ceramides are sphingolipids consisting of sphingoid bases linked to fatty acids by an amide bond. Typical sphingoid bases in the skin are composed of dihydrosphingosine, sphingosine, phytosphingosine, and 6-hydroxysphingosine, and the fatty acid acyl chains are composed of non-hydroxy fatty acid, α-hydroxy fatty acid, ω-hydroxy fatty acid, and esterified ω-hydroxy fatty acid. Analytical methods, such as gas chromatography/mass spectrometry, high performance thin layer chromatography with UV detection, and liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry, have been developed for the identification and quantification of ceramides in the stratum corneum...
Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 2007
The outermost layer of skin, stratum corneum (SC), functions as the major barrier to diffusion. SC has the architecture of dead keratin filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. This work presents a detailed study of the hydration process in extracted SC lipids, isolated corneocytes and intact SC. Using isothermal sorption microcalorimetry and relaxation and wideline 1 H NMR, we study these systems at varying degrees of hydration/relative humidities (RH) at 25°C. The basic findings are (i) there is a substantial swelling both of SC lipids, the corneocytes and the intact SC at high RH. At low RHs corneocytes take up more water than SC lipids do, while at high RHs swelling of SC lipids is more pronounced than that of corneocytes. (ii) Lipids in a fluid state are present in both extracted SC lipids and in the intact SC. (iii) The fraction of fluid lipids is lower at 1.4% water content than at 15% but remains virtually constant as the water content is further increased. (iv) Three exothermic phase transitions are detected in the SC lipids at RH = 91-94%, and we speculate that the lipid re-organization is responsible for the hydration-induced variations in SC permeability. (v) The hydration causes swelling in the corneocytes, while it does not affect the mobility of solid components (keratin filaments).
International journal of cosmetic science, 2012
The barrier function of skin is primarily provided by the lamellar lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which has been shown in previous infrared (IR) and related studies to consist predominantly of ordered lipids packed in orthorhombic and hexagonal domains. In the current work, we investigate the effects of the anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS), on SC lipid packing and phase behaviour, using FT-IR spectroscopy. The use of acyl chain perdeuterated SDS allows unequivocal spectroscopic detection of both endogenous lipid and exogenous material in intact tissue. IR spectra were acquired as a function of temperature from isolated human SC exposed to SDS for various incubation periods at 34°C. SDS is found to enter the SC and is observed to be in a more ordered state in the SC than in solution, indicating that the SDS interacts with the ordered SC lipids. The results reveal that SDS reduces the amount of orthorhombic phase in the SC and increases the amount of hexago...