The Making of Taiwan Cuisine since 1980s: The Rise of Minnan and Hakka Food (original) (raw)
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Anthelme Brillat-Savarin proposed the idea: 'tell me what kind of food you eat and I will tell you what kind of man you are' in 1826. Since then, there has been an ample body of research undertaken examining the relationship between food and identity and there has been much debate about this issue. In Taiwan, since the transition of political power from external to internal rule in 1988, there has been an increased interest expressing Taiwanese identity, including food and identity. However, while there are plenty of popular publications on the subject, few academic works examine this based on serious in-depth research. This study takes a socio-historical perspective to examine the development of Taiwanese food and document its elevation to cuisine status, linking to a rise of Taiwanese identity and the way people express that consciousness. Taiwan was subject to different external powers after 1624: the Dutch colonizers, Han settlers, the Japanese and the Nationalist govern...
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This dissertation began from my passion to food and completed as a certain food for thought. This study would not have been completed without the generous help of many individuals and institutions. First of all, I would like to thank all informants who helped me with this research by generously sharing their thoughts, memories, and life stories with me, most of who are Taiwanese cooks, owners of restaurants or stalls, and consumers. I gratefully thank the Chiang Ching-kuo Foundation that provided me with writing grants (2008-2009) and the Institute of Taiwan History (ITH) of Academia Sinica that granted me the position of visiting associate (Jan.-July 2008, Sep. 2009-Aug. 2010) to carry out my research and complete this doctoral thesis. My deep gratitude particularly goes to my supervisor at Leiden University, Prof. Axel Schneider, who opened a door and actually started a new life for me. I also thank his sweet family who generously share a great time with me. All the academic input and warmth I received are indispensable. I am indebted to the ITH and the Institute of Sociology (IOS) of Academia Sinica, which provided me with generous academic resources, wonderful colleagues and working space during my fieldwork in Taiwan. My special gratitude goes to Prof. Chang Mau-kuei (IOS), who inspired me from the very beginning and gave me many insightful suggestions. I would also like express my thanks to Prof. Hsu Hsueh-chi (ITH), who encouraged me in many ways and provided me, a new face for Taiwanese historical research, with opportunities to explore the field. In addition, I appreciate many teachers and friends in Taiwan who gave me remarkable help and encouragement. I would specifically like to thank Prof. Lu Shao-li (Cheng-chi University), Prof. Chang Lung-chih (ITH), Prof. Yu Shuenn-der (Institute of Ethnology, Academia Sinica), Prof. Yang Zhao-jing (Kaohsiung Hospitality College), and the staff at the Foundation of Chinese Dietary Culture. The Leiden Institute for Area Studies, particularly the Sinological Institute, provided me with both material and emotional support during my study in the Netherlands. I appreciate very much the kindness of the teachers, staff and students there. I could not have a great time in Leiden without the kind help and warm friendship of Prof. Ngo Tak-win, Dr.
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