Tapestry fragment, Peru, late 16th-17th century (original) (raw)
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This paper examines a 16th-17th century tapestry fragment from Peru, highlighting its intricate design features and cultural significance. The textile incorporates elements like imitation lace and Andean flora and fauna, reflective of the interplay between native traditions and European influences in viceregal Peru. Analysis of design motifs, such as the scalloped lace and quatrefoil patterns, reveals connections to Inca cosmology and the adaptation of imported styles, illustrating the resilience of Andean culture amid colonial pressures.
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2008
In 1998, the Metropolitan received the John B. Elliott Bequest that included, among other items, approximately 296 ethnographic textiles from Peru, Bolivia and Chile, as well as basketry, beadwork and shell ornaments from the Amazon, Indonesia and Africa. 6 The garment is fifty-five and one half inches in width at the top, across the shoulder-line, tapering to thirty-nine and one half inches at the lower edge. 7 Material and Technical information: Dimensions 35 ¼"H x 55 ½" W, Materials: Camelid hair, feathers, Furcroya. Weave: Warp-faced plain weave with discontinuous warp and warp-float patterning [in 3 span float alignment] Discontinuous warp yarns are dovetailed around a scaffolding weft, woven with two weft shuttles. Warp yarns: red, purple, green, white, blue, yellow camelid hair: 48-72 per inch. /\. Weft: dark brown camelid hair (vicuna or alpaca) /\ 16 per inch. Embroidery: brown camelid used single / and also /\. Four Feather clusters: One is tied with Camelid hair cord and three are Furcoya-type fiber cord.
Chasing the Eliusive Viscacha in Precolumbian Textiles: intersection of art and sicence
Journal of Archaeological Science , 2022
Precolumbian textiles from Peru played a central role in the development of Andean culture, and are primarily known to have been woven with a variety of native camelid hairs and cotton yarns. But close examination of some Andean textiles has revealed the presence of certain fibers, brown-grey or yellowish in their natural, undyed color, that are extremely fine and have special physical characteristics when observed under the microscope including pointed and elongated scale features, and a segmented medulla. The unusual fibers were postulated to come from the viscacha, a rodent from the Chinchillidae family that lives in the Western part of South America from Ecuador to Argentina. Indeed, the animal has been mentioned in sixteenth century historical chronicles and can be seen represented on Precolumbian and colonial-era tapestries. To identify these unusual fibers and trace their early use in Peruvian textile traditions, proteomics was used to characterize the hair proteome of viscacha and identify species markers in several selected textiles from museum collections. Reference samples of hairs were taken from known specimens for the most common species of viscacha (Lagidium sp. and Lagostomus sp.) and specific peptide markers of keratins were identified by denovo sequencing and by comparison with keratin sequences from Chinchilla lanigera, the closest relative for which the genome has been sequenced. Thirteen Chinchilla-only markers, six Lagidium-only markers and seven Lagostomus-only markers were identified. Subsequently, yarns were analyzed from seven different textiles selected on the basis of visual assessment of their physical characteristics. Of these seven textiles, five were indeed matched to a Chinchillidae species using public sequences and further confirmed as mountain viscacha from the Lagidium genus by using the specific markers determined in this study.
Woven Brilliance: Approaching Color in Andean Textile Traditions
Textile Museum Journal, 2020
Support for volume 47 of The Textile Museum Journal is generously provided by the Cotsen Textile Traces Study Collection Endowment, David W. and Barbara G. Fraser, and the Markarian Foundation. The museum is grafeful for their support and commitment to advancing textile scholarship.
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