"PURPUREAE VESTES V": TEXTILES, BASKETRY AND DYES IN THE ANCIENT MEDITERRANEAN WORLD, by J. Ortiz, C. Alfaro L. Turell and Mª. J. Martínez (original) (raw)

PURPUREAE VESTES VI. TEXTILES AND DYES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN ECONOMY AND SOCIETY (2018)

2018

This volume gathers the contributions of the 6th Purpureae Vestes International Symposium, which took place in Padova-Este-Altino, Veneto, Italy in October 2016. The topic, Textiles and Dyes in the Mediterranean economy and society, focused on the role of textile production and dyeing as economic activities of the various ancient cultures of the Mediterranean area, highlighting conservatisms and innovations in the various Mediterranean textile traditions and customs. An important impetus for this has been provided by the recent advances in textile studies and the numerous scientific projects that are using textile evidence to understand wider economic developments of ancient Mediterranean societies. The 53 articles collected in this volume follow a chronological (from the Bronze Age to the High Middle Ages) and geographical (from East to West and from Italy to the provinces) order. The last section deals with broader aspects that transgress chronological or geographical boundaries.

Textiles, Basketry and Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean World. Textiles, Cestería y Tintes en el mundo mediterráneo antiguo.

PURPUREAE VESTES V, Textiles and Dyes in Antiquity

EL libro que presentamos forma parte de las publicaciones Purpureae Vestes, de las que es el quinto volumen. Tanto este como los anteriores volúmenes recogen, con una frecuencia bianual, los Simposia Inter- nacionales sobre Textiles y Tintes del Mediterráneo antiguo y su entorno cultural. Se trata, como probable- mente conoce el lector, de una serie de publicaciones que nacieron a partir de los primeros trabajos de inves- tigación sobre la producción de púrpura en la Isla de Ibiza,

VI PURPUREAE VESTES INTERNATIONAL SYMPOSIUM: TEXTILES AND DYES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN ECONOMY AND SOCIETY, Padova - Este - Altino, Italy 17th – 20th October 2016

PURPUREAE VESTES International Symposium was first held in 2002 in Ibiza, Spain, organised by Prof. Carmen Alfaro Giner. The idea was to create a Mediterranean, Southern, counterpart to the North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles, which takes place every three years since 1981. It has proven a much needed and ever-growing forum for everyone working on ancient Mediterranean textiles and dyes and has since travelled to Athens, Naples, Valencia and Montserrat. This year in Padua, the program features almost fifty papers and more than twenty posters. The VI PURPUREAE VESTES Symposium will focus on the role of textile production and dyeing in the economic activities of the various ancient cultures of the Mediterranean area. An important impetus for this has been provided by the recent advances in textile studies and the numerous scientific projects that are using textile evidence to understand wider economic developments of ancient Mediterranean societies. In addition to the better known sources of the Mediterranean textile production, such as the written evidence, iconography and tools, we particularly tried to prioritise archaeological evidence relating to textiles themselves, which for long has been largely neglected in many regions due to the perceived difficulty of preservation. In recent years, a significant progress has been made not only in the identification and study of archaeological textiles, but also in the methods of their investigation. In the program we tried, whenever possible, to follow chronology (from the Bronze Age to the High Middle Ages) and geography (from East to West and from Italy to the provinces), in hopes to grasp not only possible similarities and differences, but also conservatisms and innovations in the various Mediterranean textile traditions and customs. We have also included a session focusing specifically on the region of Veneto, in order to highlight the recent researches on the ancient textile heritage of this area. The symposium venues – Padua, Este and Altino – and the city of Venice (the location of the Tessitura Bevilacqua workshop) were at some point in history important textile production centres and we hope they will provide appropriate and inspiring settings for the symposium.

Colouring the Mediterranean: Production and Consumption of Purple-dyed Textiles in Pre-Roman Times

Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology, Vol 31, No 2 (2018), 2018

Purple textiles were highly valued in the ancient Mediterranean as a symbol of prestige, social status and power. Despite the numerous publications focused on the production and spread of purple dye technologies, the discussion regarding this particular dye has often been compartmentalised regionally (eastern or western Mediterranean) and chronologically (second or first millennium bc). The aim of this paper is threefold: (1) to propose a full chaîne opératoire for the production of shellfish-purple-dyed textiles; (2) to synthesise the archaeological evidence on production and consumption of such textiles in the entire Mediterranean before the Romans; and (3) to discuss the social implications of the production and consumption of these textiles, to gain a better understanding of their economic and social significance.

A. Ulanowska, K. Grömer, I. Vanden Berghe & M. Öhrman, Introduction, in: Ancient Textile Production from an Interdisciplinary Perspective, 2022, pp 3–17

2022

Following the growth in textile studies over the past decade, we aim to present a comprehensive update of the state-of-the-art summarised in the seminal 2010 paper “Old Textiles – New Possibilities” by E. Andersson Strand, K. M. Frei, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, M.-L. Nosch and I. Skals. The diverse developments of the last decade, along with the increased recognition of the importance of textile studies in adjacent fields, now merit a dedicated, full-length publication entitled “Ancient Textile Production from an Interdisciplinary Perspective: Humanities and Natural Sciences Interwoven for our Understanding of Textiles”. With this volume, we also wish to illustrate the current impact of textile archaeology on the scholarly perception of the past (not limited to archaeology alone). The volume presents new insights into the consumption, meaning, use and re-use of textiles and dyes, all of which are topics of growing importance in textile research. As indicated by the title, we demonstrate the continued importance of interdisciplinarity by showcasing several ‘interwoven’ approaches to environmental and archaeological remains, textual and iconographic sources, archaeological experiments and ethnographic data, from a large area covering Europe and the Mediterranean, Near East, Africa and Asia. The chronological span is deliberately wide, including materials dating from c. 6th millennium BCE to c. mid-14th century CE.

TEXTILES IN ANCIENT MEDITERRANEAN ICONOGRAPHY

2022

This volume provides an ambitious synopsis of the complex, colourful world of textiles in ancient Mediterranean iconography. A wealth of information on ancient textiles is available from depictions such as sculpture, vase painting, figurines, reliefs and mosaics. Commonly represented in clothing, textiles are also present in furnishings and through the processes of textile production. The challenge for anyone analysing ancient iconography is determining how we interpret what we see. As preserved textiles rarely survive in comparable forms, we must consider the extent to which representations of textiles reflect reality, and critically evaluate the sources. Images are not simple replicas or photographs of reality. Instead, iconography draws on select elements from the surrounding world that were recognisable to the ancient audience, and reveal the perceptions, ideologies, and ideas of the society in which they were produced. Through examining the durable evidence, this anthology reveals the ephemeral world of textiles and their integral role in the daily life, cult and economy of the ancient Mediterranea