Arquestrato Teofrasto and David Downie review (original) (raw)
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8th International Conference on Food and Drink Studies, Tours, 2023
“Annona ou Mixto-Curioso” is the first known published culinary magazine in Portugal. Anonymous, it was published weekly in Lisbon between 1836 and 1837, with only 36 issues published. It was the first printed culinary title published between 1789 and 1841, period in which were only reedited previous printed titles: “Arte de Cozinha” (first edition in 1680) and “Cozinheiro Moderno” (first edition in 1780). The editorial in the first issue assures to the reader that the objective was to praise the “most necessary, and more convenient object, the taste recreation and the pleasant conservation of the existence”, inspired by the valorization of the social and cultural dimensions of the “good taste” as an element of “civilization” in the first quarter of the 19 th century, Focused in the publication of recipes and culinary techniques, each weekly issue was formed by an average of 20 entries, including recipes of soups, meat, fish and sweets which origins were omitted. The analysis of the recipes revealed that the major part were selected from the previous centuries’ printed Portuguese cookbooks but, in a considerable number of cases, there were no previous written record known, including some more humble and popular recipes, very different from the complex and international proposals selected from the previous cookbooks. The present study aims to describe what was selected to this publication and how these selection could help to understand the exposure of the Portuguese aristocratic and bourgeois classes to the international gastronomic revolution in the first half of the 19 th century.
“it’s good for the sick”. Medicine and Food in modern Portuguese cookbooks (16th to 18th centuries)
46th ISHM Congress , 2018
The umbilical connection between Food and Medicine, rooted in the classical Greco-Roman world, gained a wider expression and diffusion in the European cultural renewal of the Renaissance. Alongside the diffusion and translation of the major works of Dioscorides, Hippocrates, Galen and Avicena early in the 15 th century, several works dedicated to the art of cook emerge in the European space point out the beginning of the individualization of the cookery as an art, however with very close ties with Medicine until the middle of the 17 th century. In the Portuguese case, this connection between the two fields would last longer, being a daily-life reality until the end of the 18 th century. In this work, we intent to understand what is the place of the “food for the sick” in Portuguese cookbooks written between 16 th and th 18 th century. Eleven books (3 printed titles and 8 manuscripts) are known to had been produced in this period, in distinct contexts and for distinct purposes, and all of them comprises several recipes related to sickness and convalescent states along with more elaborated recipes with no medical purposes: ones specifically oriented to feed weak patients or convalescents; others, more complex, with adaptations/modifications to sick people and recipes with “medical” benefits for the cure of a specific disease. The analyses of this particular group of recipes will focus on finding what kind of culinary processes were associated to the “food for the sick”, which products were cooked and which ones were avoided in the adaptations of some of the recipes to make it suitable for the sick.
Recipes in Paulista Cuisine, Brazil (19th and 20th Centuries)
Dublin Gastronomy Symposium - 2022: Food and Movement, 2022
This study presents how transnational mobility contributed to the formation of many Brazilian cuisines, examining the contributions from Native Brazilian, enslaved Africans, European colonizers, and immigrants. The analysis comprised the culinary manuscripts of women resident of Campinas during the years 1835-1960, seeking to comprehend the choices and assimilations between different food cultures.
Maria João Neto (Coord.) Monserrate Revisited The Cook Collection in Portugal
2017
MONSERRATE REVISITED – AN EXHIBITION TO MARK THE BICENTENARY OF THE BIRTH OF SIR FRANCIS COOK 1817-2017 The significance and scale of the art collection assembled by Sir Francis Cook in the second half of the nineteenth century is undeniable. Although it has now been dispersed, many of the best museums in the world and an elite group of private individuals are proud to hold works acquired by this remarkable English collector within their collections. Francis Cook had a particular connection to Portugal from a very young age. He married in Lisbon and fell in love with Sintra, just like the young king Ferdinand II, and later bought Monserrate Estate, previously inhabited by the famous Englishman William Beckford. This illustrious occupancy by such a famous figure of the cultural landscape of the time was familiar to an entire Romantic generation, thanks to Lord Byron’s eloquent evocation in his work Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage (1812-1818). Determined to make the most of the spirit of the place, Francis Cook began an ambitious programme to renovate this historic estate, restoring the house and gardens, whilst always bearing in mind the allusion to Beckford. The great cultural importance of his initiative was recognised by King Luís I who, in 1870, honoured him with the title of Viscount. Monserrate thus became the wealthy English industrialist’s great work, and instilled in him a taste for art and an enthusiasm for collecting. In the best Victorian taste, he filled the house with fine antiques and contemporary pieces commissioned especially for this purpose, assembling a remarkable artistic collection. The ‘Englishman’s house’, as it was known, was appreciated by many notable visitors until the time the property and the palace’s valuable contents were sold, by Cook’s grandson, in 1946. An auction was held of the pieces, with no work directly bought by the Portuguese state, and the estate itself only became state property in 1949. Empty, closed and with no plans for use, the palace deteriorated severely over time until Parques de Sintra – Monte da Lua began a systematic programme to restore the historic building in 2007, at the same time as the gardens were also restored. When the work was finished in 2015, the Palace of Monserrate was returned to its former architectural splendour and was fully opened to the public. Since that time, plans have been in progress for a museum programme for the palace interior designed to convey to visitors how this space encapsulated a specific English Romantic taste, in a domestic context. This ongoing project has benefitted from constant historical and artistic research that has uncovered in detail how the various rooms of the palace would have been decorated during the time of the Cook family, the quality of the pieces exhibited, their number and origin. In doing this, the inventories of the contents of the Palace, as well as a collection of old photographs of the interiors, have been of invaluable assistance. The identification of the pieces sold at the 1946 auction and details of the collections in which they are currently held are also important aspects of this research. This identification of pieces has made it possible to contact current owners and propose acquisition, on behalf of Parques de Sintra, with the aim of returning key works to the Palace that were previously part of its valuable contents and which also illustrate English Romantic domestic culture. As part of this programme to reunite pieces from the Cook collection in Monserrate, Parques de Sintra recently acquired a Renaissance relief in marble, attributed to Gregorio di Lorenzo, with a sculptural representation of the Virgin and Child (77.5 cm x 58.5 cm). The results that have so far been achieved through this research led to the Monserrate Revisited exhibition, in which some of the most important pieces collected in the palace during the nineteenth century are once again displayed, in intimate dialogue with this architectural space. 2017 was the ideal moment for this exhibition to take place, since there was no better way to evoke the spirit of Monserrate and pay due tribute to its great founder than by bringing back to the palace a collection of remarkable works that were first assembled there by Sir Francis Cook, 200 years after his birth. To all the public institutions and individuals who have loaned pieces for this exhibition, we extend our warmest gratitude.
ANALELE UNIVERSITII DIN CRAIOVA, 2018
This paper will present my personal translation into Portuguese of the Italian book by Pellegrino Artusi entitled The Science of Cooking and the Art of eating Well, published in Brazil, last November 2009. This important book was written not only by a good author but also by a food critic, food guru and gourmet as Artusi was, and now we consider it a symbol of the linguistic unification of the Italian language in a region, Emilia-Romagna, where the dialect was the only way of communication known by everyone. The Science of Cooking became a true symbol all over the world across various areas of society, language and culture but also as a linguistic phenomenon.