Expansion of Natural Dye Colour Gamut for Use by the Local Textile and Craft Industry (original) (raw)

Rainbow of Natural Dyes on Textiles Using Plants Extracts: Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Processes

Green and Sustainable Chemistry, 2017

Indians have been considered as forerunners in the art of natural dyeing. Although indigenous knowledge system has been practiced over the years in the past, the use of natural dyes has diminished over generations due to lack of documentation and precise knowledge of the extracting and dyeing techniques. As a result, natural dyes are not commercially successful. Presently, all environmentally unfriendly synthetic compounds are used for dyeing textile materials. They are non-biodegradable, carcinogenic and generate water pollution as well as waste disposal problems. Natural dyes provide a reasonable solution to these problems. Thus, it is imperative to develop technology for extraction of natural dyes and for their application on textile materials. In this study, attempt has been made to extract natural dyes from a variety of plants sources (such as rhizomes of turmeric, Curcuma longa; fruits of harda, Terminalia chebula; petals of safflower, Carthamus tinctorius; roots of barberry, Berberis lycium etc.) using specific techniques. These dyes were tested for their dyeing potential on different textile materials (cotton, silk and wool). Dyeing was done using three different dyeing techniques (pre-, simultaneous-and post-mordanting) wherein different mordants such as alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate etc., were used to fix dye on to the textile material. A rainbow of natural dyes was obtained with varied shades of each colour. Shade cards were prepared for each dye and the colour obtained varied depending on the type of the mordant applied and the mordanting technique used.

A Practical Guideline of Few Standardized Ready Made Shades of Natural Dyed Textiles

Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments, 2020

Marigold flower Tagetes erecta L., Arjuna Bark Terminalia Arjuna, Eucalyptus leaves Eucalyptus Radiata, Peach/Jam Leaves Acacia acuminata, Pecker leaves Cinnamomum tamala, Guava leaves Psidium guajava, Basil leaves Ocimum basilicum, Jackfruit wood Artocarpus heterophyllus, Catachu fruit Senegalia Catechu, Bohera fruit Terminalia bellirica, Betel nut fruit Areca catechu, Haritaki fruit Terminalia chebula, Mahogany fruit peel, Mahogany seed peel, and Mahogany seed Swietenia macrophylla are the common natural sources in Bangladesh, an Asian country which were experimented in terms of mordanting free natural coloration on cotton fabric under conceptual confirmation of referred journal where author has been picked the idea from the generation of available shade in his research laboratory and tested from different laboratories and it may be establish as mordant free natural dyeing for specific colorant on the basis of color fastness and shading behaviors. Fifteen standardized Ready Made Shade (RMS) has been presented with CIE color parameters, color fastness, wash fastness, and light fastness grading. A reproducing guideline for every Ready Made Shade (RMS) has been mentioned in this chapter.

Colour and fastness of natural dyes: revival of traditional dyeing techniques

Coloration Technology, 2010

Cotton and wool fabrics were dyed with nine natural dyes obtained by aqueous extraction of the original plants ⁄ insect in an attempt to reconstruct traditional textile dyeing recipes, to optimise the methodology at all stages, i.e. extraction, mordanting and dyeing, and to standardise it. Cochineal, madder, alkanna, henna, brazilwood, red sandalwood, safflower, indigo and logwood were used for the dyeings, which were carried out directly and after mordanting of the textile material. A variety of mordants, namely, aluminium potassium sulphate, potassium dichromate, copper sulphate, zinc chloride, iron(III) chloride, iron(II) sulphate and tin chloride, is anticipated to meet both early and recent requirements and options. The dyeings were evaluated through colour measurements and standard wash, light and rub fastness tests. Generally, the mordanting process known for many centuries and connected with the textile dyeing resulted in an improvement in dye absorption and fastness properties mainly for the cotton samples, as is concluded from the tests and measurement assessments.

Dyeing Of Textiles With Natural Dyes - An Eco-Friendly Approach

Numerous plant species are found to have an important role in the day-to-day life of the ethnic and local people. However, it is a matter of concern that the indigenous knowledge of extraction, processing and practice of using of natural dyes has diminished to a great extent among the new generation of ethnic people due to easy availability of cheap synthetic dyes. Thus by keeping in view of above, the present study has been undertaken so as to revive the age-old are of dyeing with natural dyes. In the present work, the flowers of Clitoria ternatea (Clitoria flowers) and Targetes erecta Linn ( Marigold) and Punica granatum ( pomegranate) peel were used for the extraction of dye, dyeing of the selected fabrics at optimized conditions, using combination of mordants and evaluate the resultant colour fastness of the selected dyed samples to washing, rubbing, and light. Also the antimicrobial properties of the dyes were evaluated.

Assessing the efficacy of dyes extracted from some local plants for colouring cotton fabrics

Journal of Science and Technology (Ghana), 2014

Natural dyes from plant, animal and mineral sources have been used for centuries across the world. This study however, describes art studio quasi experiments conducted with the leaves, barks, seeds, roots, and fruit pods of 21 local plants to ascertain their potential for yielding dyes that would colour cotton fabrics and withstand frequent laundering. The methodology involved boiling the crushed leaf samples or chopped woody samples for between 15 and 30 minutes, draining the liquor into a plastic bowl, immersing the test cotton fabric and dyeing it hot or cold. With the exception of Adansonia digitata dye which was too weak to stain the fabric and Bixa orellana dye which was not colourfast and faded beyond recognition within six weeks, the other 19 plants yielded highly coloured, light-and wash-fast dyes of varying strengths, suggesting their feasibility for teaching basic skills in tie-dyeing, batik, watercolour painting and printmaking, which constitute integral aspects of the Visual Arts curriculum in Ghana. The study identified sodium carbonate as an effective mordant for improving the colour, strength and fastness of the brown Bridelia ferruginea dye which is the backbone of the indigenous textiles industry.

Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes

intechopen.com

Textile materials (natural and synthetic) used to be coloured for value addition, look and desire of the customers. Anciently, this purpose of colouring textile was initiated using colours of natural source, untill synthetic colours/dyes were invented and commercialized. For ready availability of pure synthetic dyes of different types/classes and its cost advantages, most of textile dyers/ manufacturers shifted towards use of synthetic colourant. Almost all the synthetic colourants being synthesized from petrochemical sources through hazardous chemical processes poses threat towards its eco-friendliness. Hence, worldwide, growing consciousness about organic value of eco-friendly products has generated renewed interest of consumers towards use of textiles (preferably natural fibre product) dyed with eco-friendly natural dyes. Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of food substrate, leather as well as natural fibres like wool, silk and cotton as major areas of application since prehistoric times. Although this ancient art of dyeing textiles with natural dyes withstood the ravages of time, but due to the wide availability of synthetic dyes at an economical price, a rapid decline in natural dyeing continued. However, even after a century, the uses of natural dyes never erode completely and they are being still used in different places of the world. Thus, natural dyeing of different textiles and leathers has been continued mainly in the decentralized sector for specialty products besides the use of synthetic dyes in the large scale sector for general textiles/apparels. Recently, most of the commercial dyers and textile export houses have started re-looking to the maximum possibilities of using natural dyes for dyeing and printing of different textiles for targeting niche market. Natural dyes produce very uncommon, soothing and soft shades as compared to synthetic dyes. On the other hand, synthetic dyes, which are widely available at an economical price and produce a wide variety of colours, sometimes causes skin allergy and other harmfulness to human body, produces toxicity/chemical hazards during its synthesis, releases undesirable/hazardous/toxic chemicals etc. For successful commercial use of natural dyes for any particular fibres, the appropriate and standardized techniques for dyeing for that particular fibre-natural dye system need to be adopted. Therefore to obtain newer shade with acceptable colour fastness behaviour and reproducible colour yield, appropriate scientific dyeing techniques/procedures are to be derived. Thus, relevant scientific studies and its output on standardization of dyeing www.intechopen.com Natural Dyes 30 methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing kinetics and test of compatibility of selective natural dyes have become very important, however the information on which is insufficient. That is why, this chapter is very much relevant to the current need of the textile dyers. An attempt has been made here to give scientific overview on dyeing of textiles with natural dyes and related issues. 2. Definition of natural dyes/colouants The word 'natural dye' covers all the dyes derived from the natural sources like plants, animal and minerals. Natural dyes are mostly non-substantive and must be applied on textiles by the help of mordants, usually a metallic salt, having an affinity for both the colouring matter and the fibre. Transition metal ions usually have strong coordinating power and/or capable of forming week to medium attraction/interaction forces and thus can act as bridging material to create substantivity of natural dyes/colourants when a textile material being impregnated with such metallic salt (i.e. mordanted) is subjected to dyeing with different natural dyes, usually having some mordantable groups facilitating fixation of such dye/colourant. These metallic mordants after combining with dye in the fibre, it forms an insoluble precipitate or lake and thus both the dye and mordant get fixed to become wash fast to a reasonable level. 3. Advantages and disadvantages of natural dyes/ colouants In the recent years, there has been a trend to revive the art of natural dyeing. This is mainly because in some aspects natural colourants are advantageous against synthetic dyes. Some of these advantages along with some limitations (disadvantages) are listed below: 3.1 Advantages of natural dyes/ colouants i. The shades produced by natural dyes/colourants are usually soft, lustrous and soothing to the human eye. ii. Natural dyestuff can produce a wide range of colours by mix and match system. A small variation in the dyeing technique or the use of different mordants with the same dye (polygenetic type natural dye) can shift the colours to a wide range or create totally new colours, which are not easily possible with synthetic dyestuffs. iii. Natural dyestuffs produce rare colour ideas and are automatically harmonizing. iv. Unlike non-renewable basic raw materials for synthetic dyes, the natural dyes are usually renewable, being agro-renewable/vegetable based and at the same time biodegradable. v. In some cases like harda, indigo etc., the waste in the process becomes an ideal fertilizer for use in agricultural fields. Therefore, no disposal problem of this natural waste. vi. Many plants thrive on wastelands. Thus, wasteland utilization is an added merit of the natural dyes. Dyes like madder grow as host in tea gardens. So there is no additional cost or effort required to grow it. vii. This is a labour intensive industry, thereby providing job opportunities for all those engaged in cultivation, extraction and application of these dyes on textile/food/leather etc. viii. Application of natural dyes has potential to earn carbon credit by reducing consumption of fossil fuel (petroleum) based synthetic dyes. www.intechopen.com Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes 31 ix. Some of its constituents are anti-allergens, hence prove safe for skin contact and are mostly non-hazardous to human health. x. Some of the natural dyes are enhanced with age, while synthetic dyes fade with time. xi. Natural dyes bleed but do not stain other fabrics, turmeric being an exception. xii. Natural dyes are usually moth proof and can replace synthetic dyes in kids garments and foodstuffs for safety. Despite these advantages, natural dyes do carry some inherent disadvantages, which are responsible for the decline of this ancient art of dyeing textiles. 3.2 Limitation/ disadvantages of natural dyes/ colouants i. It is difficult to reproduce shades by using natural dyes/colourants, as these agroproducts vary from one crop season to another crop season, place to place and species to species, maturity period etc. ii. It is difficult to standardize a recipe for the use of natural dyes, as the natural dyeing process and its colour development depends not only on colour component but also on materials. iii. Natural dyeing requires skilled workmanship and is therefore expensive. Low colour yield of source natural dyes thus necessitates the use of more dyestuffs, larger dyeing time and excess cost for mordants and mordanting. iv. Scientific backup of a large part of the science involved in natural dyeing is still need to be explored. v. Lack of availability of precise technical knowledge on extraction and dyeing techniques. vi. The dyed textile may change colour when exposed to the sun, sweat and air. vii. Nearly all-natural dyes with a few exceptions require the use of mordants to fix them on to the textile substrate. While dyeing, a substantial portion of the mordant remains unexhausted in the residual dye bath and may pose serious effluent disposal problem. viii. With a few exceptions, most of the natural dyes are fugitive even when applied in conjunction with a mordant. Therefore, sometimes their colour fastness performance ratings are inadequate for modern textile usage.

"EFFECT OF MORDANTING METHOD ON DYE ABSORPTION OF NATURAL DYES EXTRACTED FROM GULMOHAR LEAVES ON LINEN FABRIC"

BEST: International Journal of Humanities, Arts, Medicine and Sciences (BEST: IJHAMS), 2014

Nature is full of fascinating colours and people had been exploiting them for dyeing garments, Ausing them in food and many other items of the daily use. It has been reported by ancient writers that there were at on time nearly thousand natural sources of dyes. There is a consideration demand for eco-friendly products in the global market and it is possible to master the technology of dyeing with natural dyes. In the search for newer natural source for dyes, and attempt has been made to extract dyes from selected gulmohar leaves, and it is applied on linen with pomegranate mordant technique. Effect of dyeing, method of extraction and mordant has been visualized on the colour strength and fastness properties of the dyed samples. In linen, regarding general appearance, the sample dyed with tree leaves using pomegranate mordant with premordanting technique was rated as good. Texture and luster of sample was rated as medium and good respectively. The weight of the sample has maximum increased over the original. Gulmohar tree leaves, dyed with pomegranate as mordant by using pre-mordant technique are maintained the fabric thickness of linen. Linen sample dyed with gulmohar leaves increased the fabric strength. The colour fastness tests of Lenin sample proved that gulmohar leaves had very good light fastness with pre-mordant technique. In general, the sample had good to excellent colour fastness to dry and wet crocking and fair to good colour fastness to washing. Colour not only gives a pleasant look to the substrate, but also expresses emotion and ideas. The knowledge and use of colours began with the drawn of civilization perhaps, but the art of extraction and use of colour was discovered and perfected in India. India had the distinction of being the colour box of the ancient world. People demand coloured textiles for aesthetic appeal for decoration and for utilization purpose also. The colour is achieved through dyeing. In recent years there has been an interest manifested towards natural dyes. The reason being manifold including such as those of ecological movement, bio-degradability and higher compatibility of natural dyes with environment other advantages associated with natural dyes include lower toxity and allergic reactions in relations to synthetic dyes. So, in this study the natural colours are extracted from leaves of gulmohar tree and to apply on textile material with pomegranate mordant. These natural dyes also give some medicinal properties also.

Various Natural Dyes Using Plant Palette in Coloration of Natural Fabrics

2021

The use of natural dyes in textile coloring has shown a growing interest. Many countries have developed stringent environmental rules to respond to hazardous and allergic synthetic coloring reactions. Since there is a growing need for these ecologically friendly wool yarns, cotton, and silk, there are enormous regions for novel color sources. In the following content, several innovative natural dye sources are explored. New coloring features such as quickness and natural dyeing were also applied. Natural dyes form plants are become more popular in textile coloring. This is because the poisonous and allergic synthetic tinting responses have enforced strict environmental rules in many nations. During this review using of natural dyes extracted from plants and its application on textile materials were investigated.

Dye Yield, Color Strength and Dyeing Properties of Natural Dyes Extracted from Ethiopian Dye Plants

With the aim of scientific investigation on natural dye yielding plants of Ethiopia, few dye plants which are traditionally used for cotton dyeing in Ethiopia were selected. Crude dyes in powder form were isolated after evaporation of aqueous extracts. The color strength and color mass equivalences of the aqueous extracts compared to synthetic dye (commercial C I Reactive Red 4) were determined. Calculation of color equivalence gives an idea of the necessity of using large quantities of raw dye plant to get a particular depth of shade compared to synthetic dye. Cotton fabric was dyed without and with alum and iron (II) sulphate mordants. The dye uptake (K/S), CIE L*a*b*, wash and light fastness results indicated that dye plants traditionally used in Ethiopia for cotton dyeing have considerable potential for application as a source of natural dyes. Attempts were made to correlate crude dye yield and color strength of extracts. However, no relationship existed between these parameters. This is attributed to the absence of knowledge of exact coloring components and chemical structures of crude dye obtained after evaporation of dye extracts. The emphasis of the paper is on the color strength, color yield equivalence compared to commercial C I Reactive Red 4 and dyeing behavior without and with mordant. No attempt was made for dye chemical structure determination due to lack of purity of isolated dye from aqueous extracts. Use of aqueous extract without further purification is a common practice of dyeing with natural dyes.

Experimental Researches Regarding the Ecological Dyeing with Natural Extracts

Autex Research Journal, 2014

Until the development of artificial dyes, the textile dyeing process was done with the help of colorants and pigments extracted from natural sources, such as plants, roots, stems, bark, leaves, berries and flowers. After the discovery of synthetic colorants, the natural ones were forgotten for quite a while. They were dismissed as being obsolete. The raw materials used in the fabrication of natural dyes are mostly plant parts: leaves, roots, flowers, tree bark, and seeds [9, 13].