Текстильные технологии Египта: ткацкие станки. О. В. Орфинская (original) (raw)
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Орфинская О. В., Павлова Н. А. Текстильные технологии Египта: техника спрэнг
Orfinskaya O. V., Pavlova N. A. Textile technologies of Egypt: sprang, 2023
The article analyses 50 hairnets made in sprang technique. These hairnets were found in Deir el-Banat (Fayoum) during the archaeological excavations of the Centre for Egyptological Studies of the Russian Academy of Science (CES RAS). A comparative study of the hairnets was conducted following the scheme: material; shape and shape-related features of making the upper part (the way of narrowing at the top); stylistic and technical characteristics of the central part; the browband; additional decoration and its features; place in the burial; secondary use and repairs. A number of analogues from world’s museums made it possible to date some of the hairnets and thus identify two chronological groups of polychrome headdresses. The relationship between the age of buried women and the color of headdresses was also traced. Keywords: Ancient Egypt, hairnets, sprang, weaving, Deir el-Banat
Текстильные технологии Египта: плетение
Textile technologies of Egypt: weaving. O. Orfinskaya, D. Kliuchnikova, 2020
Weaving is the oldest technology having no territorial boundaries. Weaving techniques that originated in various ancient cultures remain almost unchanged even now. During numerous archaeological excavations in Egypt, various wicker products were found, namely baskets, mats, coffins, furniture elements, nets, vessel braids, saddle bags for donkeys, sieves, fans, clothing elements (hats and shoes) and decorations (braid, wreaths, jewelry made of beads). The techniques for making these products are skilful and diverse. During the work of the CES RAS expedition, fragments of baskets and mats were found in the TT 23 tomb (Luxor). On the necropolis of Deir El-Banat in Fayum the mission found wicker coffins, a net, and a number of linen and woolen hats. Keywords: Ancient Egypt, weaving, weaving in Egypt, weaving techniques, basket weaving, matting, tomb TT23, Deir El-Banat.
Текстильные технологии Египта: сырьевая база
Raw materials in Egyptian textile industry. O. V. Orfinskaya, 2020
Flax was the major raw material in the Egyptian textile industry since the earliest periods. Later other materials appeared; for instance, cotton, which was mainly imported from India and Nubia. Hemp was also probably used time to time. Scale of using this material is difficult to be determined since hemp fibers cannot be identified by visual examination. Modern methods of research will allow identifying this material in collected Egyptian fabrics in future. Registered wool is mainly sheep’s, but there are also finds of goats’ and camels’ wool. Possibly, this list will be enriched with new entries after further detailed examination. Woolen textiles became widespread in Egypt in the Roman period, and in Byzantium times they were as popular as linen ones. Appeared in the Late Antiquity, silk costed much and was used for weaving samits and small decorative elements. Weed, leaves and fibers of date palms and other plants served Egyptians in course of all their history. Keywords: Egypt, textile, paleolith, predynastic period, pharaonic period, Antiquity, raw material, flax, linen, hemp, wool, silk, cotton.
Текстильные технологии Египта: формирование нити
Forming threads in Egyptian textile industry O. V. Orfinskaya , 2020
Threads in archaeological textiles were made with usage of two techniques — splicing and spinning. These are completely separate methods requiring different instruments and production organization. In Predynastic and Dynastic Egypt the first one was used. Twist direction corresponded to the plant fibers’ natural twist direction. For the majority of plants it is Z twist, so the first threads were twisted in Z direction. But for the flax, fibers of which are S-twisted, it was more sensible to twist yarns in S direction. That is why after a while Egyptians began to twist flax threads in S direction only. This technical feature is a calling card of Egyptian archaeological textiles: all fibers including wool were twisted in S direction. Keywords: Egypt, flax, linen, textile techniques, splicing, spinning, twist direction.
Текстильные технологии Египта: пошив и ремонт текстильных изделий
Textile technologies of Egypt: sewing and repair. O. V. Orfinskaya, 2023
The article deals with the last stage of textile object production and its repairs. Samples of fabrics with seams dating back to the time from the New Kingdom to the end of the Byzantine period were selected among 3000 fragments of various textile objects acquainted during the excavations of the CES RAS in the TT-23 tomb (Luxor) and at the necropolis of Deir el-Banat (Fayoum). The analysis of these seams has showed gradual changes in sewing systems. When processing the edge, the whipped rolled hem was replaced with rolled hem, various variants of a simple seam — with a flat-fell seam, couching repair — with darning. When comparing the fragments from the tomb and from the graves of the necropolis, the difference in the quality of material as well as in sewing and repair is clearly seen, that indirectly indicates a lower social status of those who were buried in the necropolis. The objects made of linen fabrics and repaired with woolen threads suggest some changes in religious beliefs of the population.
Чтобы сгтттг» одежду, необходимо сначала соткан. ткань, но перед этим надо получить и обработать расштслыюс волокно. Для коптскою текстиля, представленною в описываемой коллекппи, использовались три вида волокон: лен, шерсть и шелк {таблица I на стр. 36). Лен it шерсть занимаю 1 ведущее место и присутствуют почт во всех фрагментах тканей (в 193 и 191 соответственно), а шелк -только в десяти. ЛЕН Кроме вида льна, на качество его волокон влияет почва, где он рос, и вода, в которой ею замачивали, а также время сбора растении. Для получения льняного волокна, пригодного для прядения, необходимо было вынолшиь целый ряд операций. Лен собирали, замачивали для отделения лубяных волокон от древесных частей стебля, сушили, мяли, трепали, чесали. 13 результате получали волокно, пригодное для прядения. Волокна неокрашенного льна имели несколько оттенков: белый, желтый, бежевый, светло-коричневый. Конечно, на цвет волокон, которым более 1000 лет, влияют условия, is которых хранились отит изделия, однако любопытной особенностью является сочетание волокон разного цвета в одной ткани или одной нити (кат. 69 и 97). Можно предположить, что волокна темного льна использовали для создания определенного декоративного аффекта.
Текстильные технологии Египта: грубые погребальные пелены
Orfinskaya O. V. Textile technologies of Egypt: coarse funeral shrouds [in Russian] // Egypt and neighbouring countries 2 (2022): 23–68. DOI: 10.24412/2686-9276-2022-00006., 2022
Fabrics found in burials are curious in context of studying both textile production and the lifestyle of inhabitants of the oasis and their social status. This article presents results of examining funeral shrouds dated back to the late antiquity and found in burials at the necropolis of Deir al-Banat (Fayum, Egypt). In this paper, a typological analysis of these shrouds has been carried out. However, this is only the first step in understanding a role of such shrouds in the funeral rite. As a result of the analysis, two groups of shrouds were revealed: home and interior textiles, which were reused for burials, and fabrics specially woven for this rite. Shrouds of the 2nd group are called coarse funeral shrouds for their poor quality. Keywords: funeral rite of late antiquity, Egyptian textiles, decorative textiles, decor classification.
Статья посвящена аспектам реконструкции ткацкого станка бронзового века Южного Зауралья и Северного Казахстана. Рассматриваются два возможных варианта его конструктивных особенностей: примитивный станок-рама и классический ткацкий станок с ремизкой. Технологические параметры ткани, изученные по ее отпечаткам на керамических сосудах синташтинской, петровской и алакульской культур, свидетельствуют об ее изготовлении на классическом ткацком станке. Археологические параллели указывают на западный импульс данной технологии производства текстиля.
Орфинская О. В. Текстильные технологии Египта: структура тканей // Египет и сопредельные страны 3 (2021)
This paper presents results of analysis of three groups of textiles discovered by CES RAS archaeological mission to two Egyptian sites — TT 23 in Luxor and Deir el-Banat necropolis in Fayoum. Investigation covered 500 fragments from the tomb (first group), 276 fabrics from burials with naked bodies wrapped in bandages and other funeral textiles (second group) and 194 fragments from burials with bodies dressed in tunics and wrapped in shrouds (third group). Analysis showed the textile industry in Egypt to be rather conservative and technological features of fabrics of two first groups to be nearly identical. The third group differs from others. It includes not only linen textiles, which are more balanced here, but also wool fabrics with various characteristics. In all groups tabby-weave dominates. Such a form of tabby as basket is registered in the first and second groups. The first and third groups include terry fabrics. The fact that there is none of them in the second group does not indicate that they were not used in domestic context since terries are mostly matts that were not torn into bandages. Textiles of the third group demonstrates one more weave — serge. Although a number of studied objects is impressive, one should realize that this selection contains textiles used in funeral context and thus it does not reflect all assortment of Egyptian fabrics of the New Kingdom — late Byzantian period.