Comparison of two wave models for Gold Coast, Australia (original) (raw)
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A detailed understanding of spatial and temporal variability in oceanic and nearshore wave climates is essential to better assess the present and future risks of coastal hazards such as erosion and inundation. Previously, the Office of Environment and Heritage (OEH) have developed a NSW Coastal Ocean Wave Model System, comprising coupled WAVEWATCH-III and SWAN spectral wave models. That model system has been applied to develop long-term wave hindcast data sets, see [1] and [2], at offshore locations along the NSW coastline. However, due to the computational effort required to transfer the deep-water wave data sets to the shoreline, the process of dynamically simulating nearshore wave climates can only be carried out on a project-specific basis for selected locations at present. This paper presents three different methods for a Wave Transfer Function to transfer measured and hindcast (modelled) wave data from deep water across the continental shelf offshore of NSW to the nearshore. T...
Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 2016
Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High-resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and practices and provides with a wide array of data regarding nearshore wave dynamics and hydrodynamics. In the present work, the open-source TELEMAC suite and the commercial software MIKE21 are applied to selected coastal areas of South Italy. Applications follow a scenario-based approach in order to study representative wave conditions in the coastal field; the models' results are intercompared in order to test both their performance and capabilities and are further evaluated on the basis of their operational use for coastal planning and design. A multiparametric approach for the rapid assessment of wave conditions in coastal areas is also presented and implemented in areas of the same region. The overall approach is deemed to provide useful insights on the tested models and the use of numerical models – in general – in the above context, especially considering that the design of harbours, coastal protection works and management practices in the coastal zone is based on scenario-based approaches as well.
A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part I, Model description and validation
A third-generation spectral wave model (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) for small-scale, coastal regions with shallow water, (barrier) islands, tidal flats, local wind, and ambient currents is verified in stationary mode with measurements in five real field cases. These verification cases represent an increasing complexity in twodimensional bathymetry and added presence of currents. In the most complex of these cases, the waves propagate through a tidal gap between two barrier islands into a bathymetry of channels and shoals with tidal currents where the waves are regenerated by a local wind. The wave fields were highly variable with up to 3 orders of magnitude difference in energy scale in individual cases. The model accounts for shoaling, refraction, generation by wind, whitecapping, triad and quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom and depth-induced wave breaking. The effect of alternative formulations of these processes is shown. In all cases a relatively large number of wave observations is available, including observations of wave directions. The average rms error in the computed significant wave height and mean wave period is 0.30 m and 0.7 s, respectively, which is 10% of the incident values for both.
A numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations was developed to simulate wave transformation in the nearshore zone with emphasis on describing the effects of wave breaking. Two different formulations for estimating additional momentum due to depth-limited wave w breaking, namely one proposed by Watanabe and Dibajnia Watanabe, A., . A numerical model of wave deformation in the surf zone. Proceedings of the 21st Coastal x w Engineering Conference, ASCE, pp. 578-587 and another one by Schaffer et al. Schaffer, H.A.,M adsen, P.A., Deigaard, R., 1993. A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water.
A third-generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation
Journal of Geophysical Research, 1999
A third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated. The model is based on a Eulerian formulation of the discrete spectral balance of action density that accounts for refractive propagation over arbitrary bathymetry and current fields. It is driven by boundary conditions and local winds. As in other third-generation wave models, the processes of wind generation, whitecapping, quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom dissipation are represented explicitly. In SWAN, triad wave-wave interactions and depth-induced wave breaking are added. In contrast to other third-generation wave models, the numerical propagation scheme is implicit, which implies that the computations are more economic in shallow water. The model results agree well with analytical solutions, laboratory observations, and (generalized) field observations.
A third-generation wave model for coastal regions-1
1999
Abstract. A third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient,currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated. The model is based on a Eulerian formulation,of the discrete spectral balance of action density that accounts,for refractive propagation,over arbitrary bathymetry,and current fields. It is driven by boundary conditions and local
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Considerable coastal infrastructure has been developed in Chile over the last two decades, and the impetus for this study was based on concerns with the lack of consistency utilized in the coastal engineering design process, beginning with, but not limited to, the definition of the wave conditions. The available wave records in Chile are of very limited duration, thus many designers rely on a variety of wave data sources ranging from ship observations to hindcast wave data of various types and flavours. One of the major issues identified was that engineering structures have often been developed using data with relatively simplistic wave definitions, employing integrated wave parameters, such as the characteristic wave height (Hm0), peak wave period (Tp) and the mean wave direction (MWD). As will be shown in this paper, the wave climate in Chile is complex and it is important that appropriately complex wave analysis techniques be employed. It has also been long recognized in Chile th...
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation
Journal of Coastal Conservation, 2012
In the framework of a research project entitled "BRISA-BReaking waves and Induced SAnd transport", a methodology was devised to characterize the waves joining together in-situ measurements and numerical wave propagation models. With this goal in mind, a number of in-situ measurements were made, for selected positions in front of Praia de Faro (South Portugal), during four days (25th to 28th March, 2009) by using different types of equipments (e.g., resistive wave gauges, pressure sensors, currentmeters and a new prototype pore pressure sensor using optical fibre). Wave records were obtained simultaneously offshore (at a water depth of 11.7 m below mean sea level, MSL) and at the surf and swash zones. The data processing and analysis were made by applying classical time domain techniques. Numerical simulations of the wave propagation between offshore and inshore for the measurement period were performed with two numerical models, a 1D model based on linear theory and a nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, COULWAVE, both forced by the measured offshore wave conditions of 27th March 2009. Comparisons between numerical results and field data for the pressure sensors placed in the surf and swash zones were made and discussed. This approach enables to evaluate the performance of those models to simulate those specific conditions, but also to validate the models by gaining confidence on their use in other conditions.
Wave climate of the Sydney region, an energetic and highly variable ocean wave regime
Marine and Freshwater Research, 1992
JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact support@jstor.org. ABSTRACT SHORT, A. D. and AAGAARD, T., 1993. Single and multi-bar beach change models. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 15, 141-157. Fort Lauderdale (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.