Essen, Trinken und Kleidung am Hof Friedrich IV. von Tirol 1413–1436 (original) (raw)
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Die Versorgung des landesfürstlichen Hofs in Innsbruck unter Friedrich IV. von Tirol
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Waffen- und Kostümkunde. Zeitschrift für Waffen- und Kleidungsgeschichte 1, 2020
To learn more about princely fashion in the modern age the most important sources are portraits. But normally these paintings show us princes and princesses in their festive dress and not in daily life. So called „Trachtenbücher“ and written inventories include additional descriptions. In case of the Tyrolean sovereign Archduke Ferdinand II (1529-1595) no single piece of his wardrobe has survived. To get an impression how Ferdinand was dressed it needs an analysis of his portraits, the inventory of estate from 1596 and wardrobe inventories. The wardrobe included different kind of coats (with and without fur), gollars, doublets, leaves and pairs of trousers. The recorded „Tuson Röckhl“ might be a special outfit worn during celebrations of the Golden Fleece order. Furthermore special clothes for mourning (coats, garment, trousers), for sports (tournament and pallone) and for bathing were listed. Especially Ferdinand´s trousers were fashionable. He wore types in German style, the Spanish „Heerpauke“ and also so called „galeothisch“ ones, perhaps a kind of cullotes. A princely styling also included hats, accessory, tissues and gloves. All these things were kept at the Innsbruck court in different kind of small boxes, caskets and suits. The mentioned glass accessories might have been produced in the Innsbruck court glass factory, some of these items are still preserved in the Vienna Kunstkammer. The persons in charge with Ferdinand´s clothes were his chamberlain, his valets and his guardaroba. Responsable for the production however was his personal tailor and his personal shoemaker. Both worked exclusively for the sovereign but also supported the court craftsmen in times of pressure. Purchasing and storing of textiles and accessories were well organized at the Tyrolean court. Orders were made at the well known markets in Northern Italy (Milan, Venice, Bolzano) and Southern Germany (Augsburg and Nuremberg) and one worked together with trusting merchants and agents. From Milan came especially silk and velvet, Venice was well known for its high quality atlas, gold cloth, leather and exotic feathers. Also Jewish traders were asked for help and support. The storage for all these goods was located in the Ruhelust palace in Innsbruck where also the workshops of tailor and shoemaker must have been situated. The fabric´s colour scale range was dark, only a few pieces were lighter and in sum was dominated by black, in contrast to other princely wardrobes (Wittelsbach, Hohenzollern) of these times which were more colourful. In comparison to his royal fellows, Archduke Ferdinand II was dressed up in a typical princely way of his time. The characteristic fabrics atlas, silk, taffeta, velvet and precious fur were used to underline his status and royal rank. Moreover the geographical good situation of Tyrol and Ferdinand´s strong ties to merchants, agents and his royal relatives made it easy to approach luxury goods.
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Der Hof Friedrich Wilhelms III. von Preußen 1797 bis 1840
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Friedrich Wilhelm III. ist uns bekannt als ein Monarch, der sich ungern mit vielen Menschen traf, der die Etikette nicht liebte, sparsam war und am liebsten allein spazierenging. Auf ihn scheint überhaupt nicht zu passen, was Zedlers Universal-Lexikon noch 1735 für notwendig hielt: "Ein Fürst bleibet derselbe, er gehe alleine oder habe einen großen Comitat bei sich. Gleichwohl fehlet es nicht an Exempeln, da der Fürst, wenn er allein unter seinen Untertanen herum gegangen, wenig und gar kein Ansehen gehabt, da man ihm hingegen ganz anders begegnete, wenn er seinem Stande gemäß aufgezogen. Dieserhalben ist also nötig, daß der Fürst nicht nur Bediente habe, die dem Lande vorstehen, sondern auch, die ihm zum äußerlichen Staate und eigener Bedienung nötig sind. Diese letztern sind die eigentlichen sogenannten Hof-Ämter, und die, so selbige bedienen, heißen Hof-Leute, und machen zusammen des Fürsten Hof-Staat aus 1 ." Um zu verstehen, wie es möglich war, daß dieser König, der bis an sein Lebensende absolut regierte und versuchte, seine königliche Autorität ungeschmälert zu behaupten, derart prunklos leben konnte und doch seinen Thron nicht verlor, müssen wir uns die lange Entwicklung verdeutlichen, deren Erbe Friedrich Wilhelm III. war. Der erste König seines Namens, der Erbauer von Preußens innerer Verwaltung, hatte mit seinem calvinistischen Dienstethos ein Zeichen gesetzt. Friedrich II. hat dann den Satz vom "premier serviteur de l'état" geprägt. In seinem Testament von 1769 hieß es: "Ich habe die Einkünfte des Staats immer als die Bundeslade betrachtet, welche keine unheilige Hand berüh
Zusammenfassung Die Größe und die hellenistisch-römische Form seines Herrschaftstraktes machen das Atrium-haus von Aguntum zu einem im gesamten Alpenraum herausragenden innerstädtischen Wohn-und Repräsentationskomplex. Die archäologischen und archäozoologischen Untersuchungs-ergebnisse spiegeln nicht nur den hohen sozialen Status der Bewohner wider, sondern zeigen auch das sich im Laufe der Zeit verändernde Verhältnis zur römischen Kultur auf. Abstract The so-called " Atrium House " in Aguntum represents an outstanding intra-urban building. Because of its Hellenistic-Roman construction type this housing complex is unique within the alpine region during the Roman Period. The results of archaeological and archaeozoological analysesdonotonlyreflectthehighsocialstatusoftheinhabitantsofthisbuilding,butdoalso point to diachronic changes in their relationship to Roman Culture.