Dinas Mawddwy - Brithdir, an archaeological survey (original) (raw)
Abstract
The Dinas Mawddwy – Brithdir archaeological survey was undertaken in 2012 and was grant-aided by the RCAHM Wales Uplands Archaeology Initiative. It covers 31 square kilometres of enclosed moorland in Snowdonia National Park, in which 555 archaeological sites were recorded, 20 of which had been recorded previously in the National Monuments Record. The earliest sites to be discovered were Bronze Age cairns overlooking the Wnion valley, close to which are three circular enclosures of uncertain date, but probably prehistoric. Well-preserved tracks across moorland were once interpreted as Roman roads leading from the nearby fort at Brithdir, but only one section of track can be shown to be medieval or earlier. Other suggested Roman routes are now modern roads and no Roman features are visible. Evidence of medieval and post-medieval settlement, in the form of building platforms and stone long huts, was found in several of the lower-lying areas, including close to the pass of Bwlch Oerddrws. In some cases these former upland dwellings are demonstrably the hafotai of lowland farms; in others the proximity of old field boundaries suggests that they were permanent farmsteads. Peat was the main domestic fuel in Merioneth as late as the twentieth century and evidence of peat cutting was found concentrated in several areas. A distinguishing feature of the peat cuttings here is the proliferation of peat-drying stands, which are found in the form of sub-rectangular outlines of stones or rubble-stone platforms, often on sloping ground. They constitute one of the densest concentrations of such unusual features so far identified in Wales. A scatter of ironstone workings on Tyllau Mwn, on the southern flank of Aran Fawddwy, comprises a rare example of surviving eighteenth-century ironstone mines in Wales. They were begun in 1770. A small unsuccessful mid-nineteenth century gold mine known as Red Dragon is well preserved in the upper reaches of Nant Maesglase. Extensive remains of four slate quarries are within the survey area, which constitute an important group of quarries for slabs rather than roof slates. They were worked mainly from the 1840s to the 1920s. All are characterised by deep quarry pits, underground workings, and the survival of mills and other ancillary buildings. Inclined planes and tramways were used extensively, much evidence for which has survived. There has been little impact on the upland landscape in the twentieth century. At Bwlch Oerddrws anti-invasion defences were constructed in the 1940s in the form of large stone anti-tank blocks which form a striking addition to one of the highest passes in Wales. The report concludes with recommendations for future recording and research.
Figures (63)
Table 2: sites grouped by period. 612m, and is unusually high for an extensive slate quarry. The highest ground is occupied by cairns, but in all cases they are small and have been interpreted as modern features and are not the prehistoric cairns discussed below in section 3.1. The highest of them are on Glasgwm at 779m (nprn 527002) and Llyn y Fign at 784m (nprn 527018). Mining and quarrying sites are less affected by altitude than other classes of site, although high altitudes would have presented transportation problems. The highest mining site was a small adit on Craig y Ffynnon (nprn 527019) at 734m.
Very few prehistoric sites were identified. Bronze Age cairns in north-west Wales are usually found in prominent but inaccessible positions, or occur in accessible groups on slopes or near passes (Smith 2003, 114). The cairns discovered in the survey area belong to the latter category. As stated above, hilltops are devoid of prehistoric cairns. A Bronze Age round cairn (nprn 300458) and a ring cairn (nprn 300459) were discovered on Marchnad Mawr, the relatively flat moorland on the south-west flank of Aran Fawddwy (fig 3). This location overlooks the route from the Mawddach Estuary eastwards to Llyn Tegid and the Dee valley. These sites are perhaps associated with that important route, or simply overlook an area of rich pasture in the valley of the Wnion. Close to the cairns are the remains of two rour enclosures, which are probably also prehistoric (nprn 402330, 527227). Further we is another small cairn (nprn 527331) and nearby small enclosure (nprn 527330). It position on the south side of the hill known as Y Foel means that it not visible from the valley below, but may, nevertheless, have been close to a route from the Mawddach to Llyn Tegid.
Figure 4. Tracks across moorland north of Cae’r Tyddyn, as shown on the 1901 Ordnance Survey The existence of Roman roads across the survey area has been much debated (Rigg & Toller 1983; Browne 1986; Toller 1999). None of the roads are related to the recent discovery of a Roman camp nearby at Gwanas Fawr, however (Barker 2007). A road leading east from Dolgellau is presumed to lie on the exact line of the present A470 trunk road over Bwilch Oerddrws, but none of its Roman archaeology has been identified. A branch road (nprn 91903) leading northwards off this above Cae’r Tyddyn farm, which then turns north-east towards Pont Helygog where a branch road (nprn 309197) leads north-west to the fort at Brithdir, has also been claimed as a Roman road (Rigg & Toller 1983, 164-65) (fig 4). It was argued that the well-made track has changed little since its creation, but the possibility that it could be Roman was challenged by David Browne (1986). In places it is retained by drystone walls and there are numerous small quarry pits which seem to be associated with the road (nprn 527116, 527140, 527141, 527142, 527143, 527144), although only one of them (527116) is near the raised and retained sections. The ‘agger’ of the road surface is very similar to the stony subsoil beneath the peat in this vicinity, and is not necessarily an artificial road surface, let alone a Roman one.
Figure 5. Milestone on Mynydd y Waun (nprn 400835) However this road can now be interpreted as post-medieval because an earlier section of road (nprn 54525) lies to the west of it at a lower level, where it passes close to Cae’r Tyddyn. This latter road is now difficult to see on the ground, was disused by the time of the 1819 Ordnance Survey of Aran Fawddwy, but is visible clearly on an aerial photograph (Crew & Musson 1996, 31). The photograph shows that, at the south end, it originally joined the main road (A470) below Bwlch Oerddrws, whereas on later maps it looks misleadingly like a track leading from the farm on to the moors. It is therefore almost certainly the track marked on Ogilby’s map of 1671, rather than the higher track to the east (nprn 91903), and it almost certainly determined the site of the farmstead Cae’r Tyddyn, the earliest part of which was built in the late sixteenth or early seventeenth century beside this road. Its course further northward is uncertain, but it is possible that the later tracks (nprn 921903, 309197) overlie it. The proximity of small quarry pits by the latter suggests an early date. Having established that this is the only section of road across the moorland that can be dated earlier than 1671, there are nevertheless no diagnostic features that prove it to be of Roman origin.
On the flatter western flank of Aran Fawddwy, below the 300 metre contour, there is also evidence of settlement. Two sub-rectangular structures may have been the sills for timber-framed buildings (nprn 527239, 527240). Slightly further downhill is a dwelling, the gable ends of which have survived (nprn 527243) (fig 8). Slightly further uphill are two sub-rectangular structures in which the wall height has been reduced to below | metre (nprn 527235, 527237). They are divided into two and three units respectively, but it is not possible to give a definitive interpretation. The larger is 6 metres wide, probably beyond the maximum span that such a structure would have been roofed, and is more likely to have been a fold. The smaller is only 4 metres wide, although it has a (possibly later) guide wall attached, indicating that it was used to pen sheep at least for part of its period of use. Another single-unit structure on lower ground is reduced to stones and boulders at ground level (nprn 527244), which is 4 metres wide. Inside it is a later peat stand (nprn 527245).
As late as the eighteenth century farmers maintained both drystone walls and earthen banks as field boundaries. Drystone walls were the most common (Evans 1812, 892). However, in 1770 Joseph Cradock described field boundaries as ‘small banks of earth or turf mounds ... these continue but a very little time, as the cattle destroy them in winter, and the farmer is at considerable expence in repairing them every spring’ (Cradock 1770, 99). Both types of field boundary were discovered in the survey area. The earliest, and possibly medieval, evidence for field boundaries includes lines of stones that could be the remnants of stone walls, but are just as likely to have been earth and stone banks (nprn 527108, 527104, 527103, 527205, 527226). A stock enclosure on Marchnad Mawr (nprn 527191) may also have been formed by an earth and stone bank. Figure | 1. Relict field banks above Maes-y-gamfa farm (nprn 527443)
Figure | 2. Small sheepfold on Marchnad Mawr (nprn 527015) Many other sheepfolds are found close to streams and were used for gathering and washing sheep. This can be inferred not simply from their location, but because they have openings towards the stream itself. Good examples are beside Afon Cwm Ochi (nprn 527254) and Nant Helygog (nprn 527134). Other folds are found close to roads (nprn 527111, 527114, 527378), at the boundary of enclosed land and mountain pasture (nprn 527110, 527159), or in sheltered positions beneath natural outcrops (nprn 527015, 527133, 527136, 527233) (fig 12).
Figure | 7. Peat stand near Tyn-y-rhos (nprn 527353) A distinguishing feature of peat cuttings here is the proliferation of stands for peat drying. They are sub-rectangular, often placed on slopes above boggy ground (where peat was cut) and are defined by kerbs of stones (e.g. nprn 527127, 527172, 527180) narrows ditches (e.g. nprn 527256, 527157), or a combination of both (nprn 527130) (figs 15, 16). They vary between 3.5 by 2.5 metres in plan to 10 by 2.5 metres (nprn 527025). In a minority of examples the stand is a low stone mound (nprn 517155), including four peat stands close to Tyn-y-rhos farm (nprn 527346, 527351, 527352, 527353) (fig 17). These features form one of the densest clusters of peat stands found in north Wales (Crew and Owen 1986).
Figure 18. Boundary stone of Edmund Buckley’s estate on Craig Portas, with later graffito DM 188% (nprn 527043) neighbouring farms and built himself a country house at Plas yn Dinas (1864-7, but burned in 1917). He was bankrupt in 1876 (Haslam 2009, 582). The stones therefore belong to the period 1856-76 but on two of the stones later graffiti is inscribed, reading ‘DM 1889’ and ‘NM 1926’ (nprn 527043) and ‘JM 1901’ (nprn 527044). These probably refer to later landowners. The latter graffito is also found on the abandoned Hafoty Maes-y-gamfa (nprn 527445). Another boundary stone above Cloddfa Gwanas is dated 1861 and is inscribed ‘CCC’, the identity of whom is not known (nprn 527039). Intriguingly it is also inscribed ‘No 2’, suggesting a series of stones, but no others were found.
Figure 21. Blowing house at Red Dragon mine (nprn 527410)
The best example within the survey area is on Tyllau Mwn (nprn 527249), where trials for lead ore were made in 1770. The workings are described in the diary of Elizabeth Baker: “We have sunk a shaft five yards, the vein is about four feet wide ... I’ve drove a level that will be up to the shaft this week — when | hope to God it may prove a copper mine tho’ the magnet acts powerfully upon what is raisd ... if it proves iron, and silver, those are the metals which constitute what is called the Friars Coat’ (Bick 1978, 22-23). The workings are known alternatively as Friars Coat. The assayer had been hoping that it would be a lead mine, but the spoil contains a reddish deposit that, combined with evidence that it had a strong magnetic field, indicates that iron ore was yielded as opposed to lead ore. There was apparently further mining over a century later, as the Geological Survey recorded that iron ore was raised in 1878 and again in 1910. This may refer to some of the other small workings nearby. Another source has claimed that lead and copper trials were made cl851 (Foster-Smith 1977, 31-2). The shaft and adit of 1770 can be identified (nprn 527271, 527281) (fig 22). Other workings are small and were probably no more than trials, but there are two more adits (nprn 527282, 527296) that are probably later. There is a substantial embankment below the workings (nprn 527285), but it ends in boggy ground, suggesting that it was intended as a track to cart away ore from the mines, but the workings were abandoned before any significant commercial production occurred (fig 23).
Cae Abaty is a deep slate quarry that is shown on the 1836 Ordnance Survey (nprn 310051). By the time of the 1890 Ordnance Survey it appears to have been abandoned because the incline tramway that took material away from the site was described as disused, but a recent study has said that work there continued until 1911 (Richards 2007, 240-1). Phases of working the deep pit (nprn 527519) can be recognised in the ancillary features. The earliest phase is marked by the highest of the spoil tips (nprn 527512). A second phase is marked by the tunnel that leads out to a small dressing shed and a second tip (nprn 527513, 527514, 527516). In the third phase the rock was hauled up to the surface of the pit by means of a crane, the base of which has survived (nprn 527518). There is no evidence of a water-powered mill, only of open-sided dressing shelters (nprn 527523) (see fig 34). The site is ona steep west-facing hillside that suggests that slate was originally carried southwards down the valley to Aberangell. Later it was taken eastwards over the summit of Waun Fach to Minllyn Quarry and then down to the village to the railway in Dinas Mawddwy. There is an incline that transported material from the middle level of the quarry workings to the base of the main incline to Minllyn (nprn 527521). Its winding house has survived (nprn 527515), as has some of the winding drum, in the form of its axle-tree, three clasp-arm frames giving a diameter of approximately 1.9m, and iron bands (fig 25). The tramroad to Minllyn required climbing to the summit of Waun Fach and then travelling downhill to the east (nprn 527511). At the summit is not a building but the debris of the winding frame, in the form of axles with gear wheels, iron bands, and a cast-iron turntable with a gauge of 2 feet and 2 inches (nprn 527525).
Figure 28. Minllyn slate quarry, showing the main processing mill (nprn 527460), with adjoining engine and boiler house (nprn 527466) to its left and stack further left (nprn 527467) Minllyn is the largest of the quarry sites, only the upper part of which fell within the survey area (nprn 310049). The workings were concentrated on two deep pits (nprn 527472, 527485), with other smaller quarries close by (nprn 527458, 527463, 527506). Slate was also extracted from levels in the steep hillside below the main workings, much of which is now forested, while there was a large processing mill at the foot of the hill near the township of Minllyn on the edge of Dinas Mawddwy. The workings belong to the nineteenth century but clearly are of several phases. An upper processing mill close to the quarries is said to have been built in 1845 (Gwyn 2006, 59; nprn 527460) (fig 28). In 1856 the land was purchased by Edmund Buckley of Manchester, who gave it to his son, also Edmund. The younger Buckley invested in the Minllyn quarry and the local infrastructure. In 1867 he opened the railway from Dinas Mawddwy to Cemmaes Road, a seven-mile private railway that linked with the Cambrian Railway (Lindsay 1974, 135). It was built with the express purpose of serving local quarries. The Minllyn slate quarry business failed in 1871 (Haslam 2009, 582). However, output and investment increased after the formation in 1872 of the Carlyle Slate and Slab Company, when sixty men were employed, and which continued in production until 1925. It was visited in 1873 by the Carnarvon and Denbigh Herald, which provides a useful description of the working of the quarry at that time: ‘as a slab quarry it is one of the most important in the country. The blocks can be literally obtained in any required size. The plan of the quarry is the usual system of underground chambers — the uppermost chamber being uncovered. The blocks are conveyed down inclines to a large machine room at the foot of the hill, where there are over forty planning and sawing machines driven by water power’.
527508). Formerly underground workings were expanded into open deep pits. A processing mill was built immediately downhill of the pits in 1845, as mentioned above (nprn 527460) (fig 28). This was powered by a steam engine, evidence for which is a surviving boiler house and stack (nprn 527466, 527467). A pipe (nprn 527468) brought water down from a reservoir on the steep hill north of the works (nprn 527530), and which seems also to have been supplied by Llyn Foeldinas (nprn 527418) higher up the hill (fig 30). It has been said that the original mill was powered by waterwheel — although no wheelpit was identified by the survey — and then by Pelton wheel, supplemented by steam power (Richards 2007, 249-50). The pipe, however, looks to have been laid to feed an engine boiler. A line of pillars on the west side of the engine house was apparently to support compressed air pipes (Ibid; nprn 527464). Figure 29. Early slate mine at Minllyn (nprn 527492)
Figure 32. Maes-y-gamfa quarry (nprn 527434) The latest of the large slate quarries was begun at Maes-y-gamfa in 1889 (nprn 527383). It made slabs for, among other things, mantelpieces, billiard tables and urinals and employed up to twenty men (fig 32). Power was derived from turbines instead of waterwheels, but it still necessitated construction of reservoirs (nprn 527439, 527440, 527444) on the hillside and leats (nprn 527441, 527442, 527446) to feed them (fig 33). The topography required the use of an incline (nprn 527429) to transport materials from quarry to mill (nprn 527427). Other inclines were then needed to transport material southwards from the quarry to the Hendre Ddu tramroad, by which means slate was taken to the railway at Dinas Mawddwy (Richards 2007, 248-9).
Figure 34. Gwaliau at Cae Abaty quarry (nprn 527523)
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