Features of tactical and psychological training models in sports climbing at youth level (original) (raw)
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The state of preparation in performance climbing
2019
This research has been carried out among climbing performers in Romania (a group of 60 climbers), starting from the desire to induce a state of preparation by watching a motivational short movie before performing a high difficulty route. The concept of preparation was related to the emotional impact of tonic or sensitive type (depending on the content of the movie) and the personality structure of the athletes, the conclusions drawn being in the area of optimization of performance by inducing an optimal state of preparation. Performance climbers can have two main attitudes to impact with emotional stimuli in the competitive environment: tonic versus sensitivity. We propose the study of the correlations between the personality structure of the athletes, the emotional impact on stimulation, respectively the quality of the prepared state of state, as the active regulatory status. The methodology included a batch of 60 climbers divided into two equal subgroups, before making a difficult...
Identification of Parameters That Predict Sport Climbing Performance
Frontiers in Psychology, 2019
In recent years, extreme sport-related pursuits including climbing have emerged not only as recreational activities but as competitive sports. Today, sport climbing is a rapidly developing, competitive sport included in the 2020 Olympic Games official program. Given recent developments, the understanding of which factors may influence actual climbing performance becomes critical. The present study aimed at identifying key performance parameters as perceived by experts in predicting actual lead sport climbing performance. Ten male (M age = 28, SD = 6.6 years) expert climbers (7a+ to 8b on-sight French Rating Scale of Difficulty), who were also registered as climbing coaches, participated in semi-structured interviews. Participants' responses were subjected to inductive-deductive content analysis. Several performance parameters were identified: passing cruxes, strength and conditioning aspects, interaction with the environment, possessing a good climbing movement repertoire, risk management, route management, mental balance, peer communication, and route preview. Route previewing emerged as critical when it comes to preparing and planning ascents, both cognitively and physically. That is, when optimizing decision making in relation to progressing on the route (ascent strategy forecasting) and when enhancing strategic management in relation to the effort exerted on the route (ascent effort forecasting). Participants described how such planning for the ascent allows them to: select an accurate and comprehensive movement repertoire relative to the specific demands of the route and reject ineffective movements; optimize effective movements; and link different movements upward. As the sport of climbing continues to develop, our findings provide a basis for further research that shall examine further how, each of these performance parameters identified, can most effectively be enhanced and optimized to influence performance positively. In addition, the present study provides a comprehensive view of parameters to consider when planning, designing and delivering holistic and coherent training programs aimed at enhancing climbing performance.
The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber
Journal of Human Kinetics, 2013
This study is a contribution to the discussion about the structure of performance of sport rock climbers. Because of the complex and multifaceted nature of this sport, multivariate statistics were applied in the study. The subjects included thirty experienced sport climbers. Forty three variables were scrutinised, namely somatic characteristics, specific physical fitness, coordination abilities, aerobic and anaerobic power, technical and tactical skills, mental characteristics, as well as 2 variables describing the climber's performance in the OS (Max OS) and RP style (Max RP). The results show that for training effectiveness of advanced climbers to be thoroughly analysed and examined, tests assessing their physical, technical and mental characteristics are necessary. The three sets of variables used in this study explained the structure of performance similarly, but not identically (in 38, 33 and 25%, respectively). They were also complementary to around 30% of the variance. The overall performance capacity of a sport rock climber (Max OS and Max RP) was also evaluated in the study. The canonical weights of the dominant first canonical root were 0.554 and 0.512 for Max OS and Max RP, respectively. Despite the differences between the two styles of climbing, seven variables -the maximal relative strength of the fingers (canonical weight = 0.490), mental endurance (one of scales : The Formal Characteristics of Behaviour-Temperament Inventory (FCB-TI; Strelau and Zawadzki, 1995)) (-0.410), climbing technique (0.370), isometric endurance of the fingers (0.340), the number of errors in the complex reaction time test (-0.319), the ape index (-0.319) and oxygen uptake during arm work at the anaerobic threshold (0.254) were found to explain 77% of performance capacity common to the two styles.
Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance
British Journal of Sports Medicine, 2000
Objective-To identify the physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. Methods-Forty four climbers (24 men, 20 women) of various skill levels (self reported rating 5.6-5.13c on the Yosemite decimal scale) and years of experience (0.10-44 years) served as subjects. They climbed two routes on separate days to assess climbing performance. The routes (11 and 30 m in distance) were set on two artificial climbing walls and were designed to become progressively more diYcult from start to finish. Performance was scored according to the system used in sport climbing competitions where each successive handhold increases by one in point value. Results from each route were combined for a total climbing performance score. Measured variables for each subject included anthropometric (height, weight, leg length, arm span, % body fat), demographic (self reported climbing rating, years of climbing experience, weekly hours of training), and physiological (knee and shoulder extension, knee flexion, grip, and finger pincer strength, bent arm hang, grip endurance, hip and shoulder flexibility, and upper and lower body anaerobic power). These variables were combined into components using a principal components analysis procedure. These components were then used in a simultaneous multiple regression procedure to determine which components best explain the variance in sport rock climbing performance. Results-The principal components analysis procedure extracted three components. These were labelled training, anthropometric, and flexibility on the basis of the measured variables that were the most influential in forming each component. The results of the multiple regression procedure indicated that the training component uniquely explained 58.9% of the total variance in climbing performance. The anthropometric and flexibility components explained 0.3% and 1.8% of the total variance in climbing performance respectively. Conclusions-The variance in climbing performance can be explained by a component consisting of trainable variables. More importantly, the findings do not support the belief that a climber must necessarily possess specific anthropometric characteristics to excel in sport rock climbing. (Br J Sports Med 2000;34:359-366)
Cognitive factors that predict on-sight and red-point performance in sport climbing at youth level
Frontiers in Psychology, 2022
Introduction: The ascent of a route can be defined as being climbed on-sight or red-point. Climbing performance is measured by the grade of the personal best route that the athlete has ever climbed. Methodology: The study examined 17 youth climbers (10 male and 7 female). The inclusion criteria were age (less than 20 years), a minimum of three sessions per week, a minimum 7a climbing grade and participation in national or international competitions. We used the Cognitrom battery and applied tests measuring spatial orientation and reactivity. Results: Climbing experience explained 42.7% of the variance of on-sight performance, and 49.5% of the variance of red-point performance. Image generation has a negative on both on-sight and red-point performance, lowering the prediction with 0.5% for on-sight climbing and with 1.5% for redpoint climbing. Discussion: Experience can predict climbing performance with a better prediction for red-point performance than on-sight with almost 7%. A high level of image generation ability can lead to viewing more approaches for passing the crux, but in a moment of physical and mental breakdown, can lead to failure. Red-pointing is less demanding than on-sight from physiological and psychologycal points of view. On-sight climbing requires greater levels of cognitive skills, such as route intepretation strategies, spatial orientation, motric memory, problem-solving skills, but also greater levels of psychological skills such as stress management, risk management, coping anxiety.
Activity and Fitness in Recreational and Competitive Youth Rock Climbers
Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise, 2017
With the recent decision by the International Olympic Committee to include rock climbing in the 2020 Olympic Games, climbers and coaches are seeking information to enhance training methods and improve performance. The purpose of this study was twofold: (1) to evaluate climbing-specific fitness and establish percentile rankings among youth climbers; and (2) determine the relationship between fitness and climbing performance. Anthropometrics, fitness, and performance on three indoor bouldering problems ranging in difficulty from V0-V8 were assessed in 64 youth climbers (35 girls, 29 boys) aged 7-17 from the United States. Data are reported by age groups (7-11; 12-17 y) and gender. Percentile rankings of fitness scores were computed for girls and boys separately. Analysis of variance was used to compare fitness by age groups and by gender. Regression analysis evaluated the association between climbing performance and fitness. Fitness scores were generally higher among boys than girls, and older vs. younger climbers. Multivariable linear regression revealed that, after adjusting for age, gender, and anthropometrics, fitness variables explained 49% of the variance in performance. Climbing-specific fitness measures previously established on adults are associated with bouldering performance in youth climbers, and therefore may be useful for monitoring progress in training.
Towards New Heights: An Interview Study on Psychological Characteristics in Danish Elite Climbing
MCAST Journal of Applied Research & Practice
Psychological characteristics, alongside enviromnetal characteristics, have animportant influence on the developmental process of turning young talent into successfulelite athletes. The purpose of this study was to explore the psychological characteristicsand skills of elite Danish senior climbers that are important for achieving success in aniche sport in a small country such as Denmark. Additionally, the environmental factors(e.g. relations and facilities) which influence the development of these psychologicalcharacteristics in climbers were examined. Data collection included four semi-structuredinterviews with elite senior climbers. The empirical material was analyzed with anexplorative approach following the six stages of thematic analysis, and later discussedagainst former research on psychological and environmental factors. The study identifiedfive factors that the athletes used or possessed during their career to achieve success:(a) focus on progress, (b) self-reflexivity and...
Determinants Of Climbing Performance In High-level Sport Climbers
Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise, 2010
We studied which physiological and kinanthropometric characteristics determine climbing performance in 16 high-level sports climbers aged 29.9 ± 4.9 years. Body composition parameters were measured with dual energy X-ray absorptiometry scanner. We also measured kinanthropometric and physical fitness parameters. The sex-specific 75th percentile value of onsight climbing ability was used to divide the sample into expert (\75th) and elite (C75th) climbers. All the analyses were adjusted by sex. The 75th percentile value of onsight climbing ability was 7b in women and 8b in men. There were no differences between expert and elite climbers in the studied variables, except in climbing time to exhaustion and bone mineral density. Elite climbers had a significantly higher time to exhaustion than the expert group (770.2 ± 385 vs. 407.7 ± 150 s, respectively, P = 0.001). These results suggest that, among climbers with a high level of performance, as those analysed in this study, climbing time to exhaustion is a major determinant of climbing performance.
Sport Mont Journal, 2009
The objective of our research was to identify the impact of sport climbing on some morphologic characteristics and motor abilities in climbers. The sample group consisted of 19 climbers, who trained climbing for one year beside their regular physical education after the initially survey was made, and 72 nonclimbers, who's only sport activity was their regular physical education. At the time of the test, climbers as well as nonclimbers were 14 years of age. The measurement included all the variables from the Physical education chart. Data were processed with statistical programme package SPSS for Windows. The result of analysis of covariance show that after a year long period of sport climbing statistically significant differences were shown in the results of t he test Polygon backwards in favour of the experimental group. It is also possible to observe a trend towards better results of the experimental group in the tests Skin fold thickness of the upper arm and Bend and touch on...
The goal of this study was to (i) assess the physical and anthropometric differences between three levels of climbers and (ii) predict climbing ability by using a multiple regression model. The participants were divided into novice (n = 15), skilled (n = 16), and elite (n = 10) climbers. Anthropometric characteristics such as height, weight, percentage of body fat and muscle, bi-acromial breath, arm span, and ape index were measured. General and specific strength were assessed through an arm jump test, a bench press test, and a hand and finger grip strength test in maximal and endurance conditions. All variables were combined into components via a principal component analysis (PCA) and the components used in a multiple regression analysis. The major finding of this study is that climbing ability is more related to specific rather than general strength. Only finger grip strength shows a higher level of initial strength between all samples while the arm jump test discriminates between climbers and non-climbers. The PCA reveals three components , labeled as training, muscle, and anthropometry, which together explain 64.22% of the variance. The regression model indicates that trainable variables explained 46% of the total variance in climbing ability, whereas anthropometry and muscle characteristics explain fewer than 4%.