History of Textiles Research Papers (original) (raw)

2025

Una explicación sobre cómo las artesanías pueden, desde un discurso de diseño, ser consideradas como Patrimonio Artesanal, una conjunción entre el Patrimonio Natural, Material e Inmaterial,

2025

Si presenta lo studio e l’edizione della più antica tariffa di tintura pubblicata dall’Arte della Lana fiorentina. Questo documento è interessante per diversi aspetti, a partire da quello tecnico-linguistico, in quanto permette di associare i nomi dei colori degli indumenti prodotti a Firenze con determinati materiali o procedimenti tintori. L’aspetto più rilevante è che la tariffa si colloca in pieno nella fase di miglioramento dei panni fiorentini, iniziata verso il 1320, e permette di comprendere meglio le modalità di questo sviluppo, in particolare dal punto di vista della tintura, che raramente viene considerata negli studi sull’argomento. Entrando più nel dettaglio, la tariffa permette di affrontare la questione del prezzo delle tinture: un problema difficile, sia per gli uomini dell’epoca sia per gli storici odierni, ma che aveva un’importanza peculiare nel sistema dei valori che la società medievale attribuiva ai colori dei capi di abbigliamento.

2025

Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.

2025, JOUNAL ON EUROPEAN HISTORY OF LAW

In the first half of the 13th century, Europe feared the conquering invasion of the Mongol Empire. The key to an empire's strength undoubtedly lies in its organized state and legal structure. The first remarkable stage of the development... more

2025, Espacio, Tiempo y Forma. Serie VII. Historia del Arte

In the 1880s, the rector of the Campo Santo Teutonico in the Vatican State, Monsignor Anton de Waal, commissioned the Villeroy & Boch company to provide antique-style floors for his archaeological museum. This was a typical small museum set up as a series of period rooms, who brought to the heart of Rome a very common practice in the panorama of historicism and the revival of early Christian archaeology in German art and industries. This essay analyses this story and presents many unpublished archive documents. The text contributes to the reconstruction of an artistic and industrial product intended for a museum that is now lost, and to its reading in an international context.

2025

Castilla que también se beneficiaron de esa transmisión de saberes técnicos, aunque con cifras de inmigrantes menores respecto a Valencia. Como resultado, las ordenanzas de algunas ciudades adoptaron la marca genovesa para tejer... more

2025, A Tale of Two Silk Brocades from Chios

The focus of this article is on two woven silks from Chios, one in a Polish collection, one in the Doris Duke collection at the Shangri La Museum in Honolulu. They bear remarkable similarities. But were they religious artefacts, designed... more

The focus of this article is on two woven silks from Chios, one in a Polish collection, one in the Doris
Duke collection at the Shangri La Museum in Honolulu. They bear remarkable similarities. But were they
religious artefacts, designed for use in the Ottoman court, or were they made for sale to overseas
customers?

2025, Islamic Azad University

Culture encompasses the values, norms, traditions, beliefs, and customs of a society, with clothing representing one of its most significant elements. In analyzing the traditional attire of an ethnic group, two key aspects are of importance: the cultural patterns influencing choices of material, color, design, and tailoring methods, and the symbolic and functional roles of clothing. Certain garments play vital roles across various social, cultural, occupational, and religious contexts. The Qashqai are one of the major nomadic tribes of Iran, primarily residing in the southern and southwestern regions of the country. The distinctive features of Qashqai clothing set it apart from that of other ethnic groups, despite notable similarities with the attire of the Lurs. Based on archival research and fieldwork, this study explores the historical evolution of Qashqai clothing. It aims to identify the earliest documented references to their attire through textual sources and visual representations, and to discuss the key factors contributing to its continuity. The findings reveal that although traditional Qashqai clothing has undergone changes over time, particularly among men, where modern styles are increasingly replacing it, it continues to be preserved among Qashqai women, especially during ceremonial events.

2025, The Common Thread. Essays in

Looking at
dress, however, ideally requires a knowledge of textiles and textile
production to fully understand the implications of visual and textual
manifestations of clothing. This brief chapter uses two togate
statues from the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek in Copenhagen as vehicles
to show how our ‘ways of seeing’ have been altered by a better
understanding of ancient textile production.

2025

A first attempt at a register of articles about Johan Ernst Jasper, next to Mas Pirngadie author of „De Weefkunst“ (1912). The articles mainly come from the magazine "Het nieuws van den dag voor Nederlandsch-Indië". The collection is not complete, but it already reflects the "controleur B.B., controleur van Politie" & Governor Jasper from another side and of course the history of colonisation on Java and entire „Nederlandsch-Indië“. It takes a long way to Indonesia!

2025

The Aspirant & his Critic - A Reader on Johan Ernst Jasper - A reading folder with 4 assorted articles from the beginning of the 20th century. Translated in English language, followed by the original text in Old Dutch language: The collection starts with the essay of an unknown critic, questioning „ Promotion of arts and crafts in the Dutch East Indies?“ (Bevordering der Kunstnijverheid in Ned.-Indië?) It was published in „Het nieuws van den dag voor Nederlandsch-Indië“ in 1902. Followed by the two essays of Johan Ernst Jasper, the critic talks about: „The Javanian Art of Weaving and Pottery“ (De Weef- en Pottenbakkerkunst der Javanen) and „Domestic Dyeing Methods“ (Inlandsche Kleur Methoden). They have been published in the „Tijdschrift voor het Binnenlandsch Bestuur“. Finally we shed light on whether Japser was blessing and/or curse of "Kunstnijverheid".

2025, Outward Appearance versus Inward Significance: Addressing Identities through Attire in the Ancient World, edited by A. Hallmann, ISAC Seminars 15, Chicago: Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures, 2025

2025

Stathogianni, S., & Orfanidis, G. (2025). Some Comments on the Female and Male Costumes of Kalavryta During the Greek Revolution. American Journal of Contemporary Hellenic Issues, 15, 124-129. The female and male traditional costumes of... more

2025, Over Ikat‘s, Tjinde‘s, Patola‘s en Chine‘s

A rough translation (draft) of Rouffaer’s lecture „Over Ikat‘s, Tjinde‘s, Patola‘s en Chine‘s“, hold on October 31st, 1901 at the finissage of the Oost en West-exhibition in 's-Gravenhage. The original script of the lecture is followed by... more

2025, Over Ikat‘s, Tjinde‘s, Patola‘s en Chine‘s

2025

The Jamaican Cockpit Country is one of the most spectacular karst landscapes in the World, and is the premier "type-example" of the cockpit style of polygonal karst. Despite this and the area's hydrological and biological significance, effective conservation of the Cockpit Country is minimal and laissez-faire. While much of the Cockpit Country was designated as a Forest Reserve in 1950, enforcement of this legislation has been erratic, and human encroachment has been limited only by the remoteness and the difficulty of access to the karst. Karst areas surrounding the Cockpit Country are exploited for bauxite mining, agriculture and other purposes; logging and agricultural activities have extended into the Forest Reserve. Although previous studies have stressed the importance of effective conservation in the Cockpit Country, and the area has long been mooted as a national park, government attitudes towards conservation have been inconsistent. Recently, it has been sugge...

2025, Archivio Storico Italiano

During the Middle Ages, industrial soap was an essential good used in textile industry processes. The wool industry represented its main user, although it was widely used at different stages of production in other textile markets as well. This article examines Siena's supply chain and market for soap during the 14th and 15th centuries, thanks to a thorough examination of contemporary documentation preserved in archives. It mainly focuses on policies enacted by wool cloth guild to face increasing olive oil demand - essential for producing soap - aiming to ensure fair supply prices for producers and reduce total production costs.

2025, Experimentelle Archäologie in Europa 17 - Jahrbuch 2018

Summary – A thread's hunt. From beads to baubles.
An archaeologist's nightmare: a burial site, stuffed up to the gills with beads ... beads ... lots of beads ... hundreds of beads ... Usually, they end up scattered in a cardbox. Or, if they are lucky, stringed on a plastic filament. Nicely arranged from tiny to big, or sorted by colour, type, or number.
Rarely there is someone to undertake the task to reconstructing the bauble they once adorned: the original threads, ribbons, cords they were threaded on are decayed and long gone. Necklaces and pendants, embroideries and bracelets, braids and belts – there are multifarious possibilities to adorn oneself and one's outfit with beads.
The presentation is about the threads. About where and how the beads were situated in the grave, how to interpret this, how to reconstruct (mentally or otherwise) the beaded fineries. And the textile components, both bead-bauble-tie-together and the accompanying clothes: colours, cuts, appearances, effects and bead-textile-interactions.

2025, CATALOGACIÓN DE LAS ETIQUETAS COMERCIALES DE GALICIA 1860-1950.

Subastas Europa
Historia postal.

2025, Zur Großen Mutter von Teglio

2025, Uit Noodzaak Geboren

This publication focuses on the history of the 'Acehcoat', arguably the first practical garment of the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army (KNIL). This jacket emerged as a direct result of the war against the Sultanate of Aceh and the story of its development is therefore closely linked to that subject. The author examines the origins of the Acehcoat in detail, drawing on primary sources, including testimonies from soldiers who personally wore and experienced the garment. Such sources provide unique insights into the personal experiences related to the Acehcoat. The author situates the development of this garment within the broader historical and military context of the period, thereby presenting a comprehensive account of its inception and eventual decline as a widely used and popular item of clothing. Currently, a full English language translation of this paper is not available.

2025, Esas cosas en mi vida - práticas, significados y representaciones en torno a los objetos cotidianos

Este libro forma parte de los resultados del proyecto: El asociacionismo de la emigración española en América a partir de la década de 1960: los casos de La Habana, Buenos Aires y Caracas. Proyecto PID2021-123160NB-I00 financiado por la... more

2025, I paramenti sacri

Il bene culturale come fattore di riscatto sociale: la Disciplina della Santa Croce a Forcella Restauri, implementazioni, approfondimenti e acquisizioni a cura di Fabio Mangone Comitato d'onore

2025

The Christian Archaeological Society, with deep concern and sadness, is closely monitoring the grave situation that the Holy Monastery of Mount Sinai is facing following recent reports of anguish, protest, and even despair that have come... more

2025

Mexico is a Latin American country whit the largest number of natives who live in a strong educational disadvantage. Whit regard to indigenous education, Ramirez (2006) indicates that this has always referred to what is considered the indigenes should know, and not to the instruction or teaching that the Indians teach or have taught among themselves. From his perspective, talking about Indigene education means taking an external assessment on their cultures. On this research we considered the Indigene "from" its own community; specifically we refer to the Otomi community of Puebla, Mexico, who live in Mexico City. We want to identify the uses of mathematics they have for their daily work, thus providing guidelines for educational interventions that are more in touch with their reality.

2025, SELLOS CORPORATIVOS ESPAÑOLES GIRONA/JAEN.

Subastas Europa
SELLOS CORPORATIVOS ESPAÑOLES GIRONA/JAEN.
ESCRIBANOS-NOTARIOS-ABOGADOS-PROCURADORES.

2025, Passepartout

The article investigates how Data Mirror, a large-scale participatory art project at Trapholt Museum brings the cultural ambiguities of textile crafts into play. Exploring the ambiguities of embroidery, the museum, the artist and 623 citizens unsettle dichotomies between tradition/renewal and individuality/collectivity, thereby uncovering textile crafts' potential for (re) connecting with the world. 1

2025

Modern military camouflage is based on wellfounded science. A deep understanding of the laws of physics and physiology enables a remarkable array of camouflage patterns and colours. Traditionally, camouflage formulations were intended to make soldiers and equipment less visible to enemy eyes in a range of wavelengths on the electromagnetic spectrum, especially the visible (400-800 nm), near-infrared region (NIR) (750-1200 nm), and thermal or far-infrared region (FIR) (3-5 and 8-14 μm). Camouflage must also meet military textile standard specifications and requirements such as colourfastness to light, washing, and perspiration to ensure changes to visible or infrared concealment are not compromised in use or as a result of cleaning.

2025

En este trabajo se estudian los temas y características formales de las imágenes figurativas producidas por la pintura andalusí a través de la cerámica, las artes del libro y la arquitectura, en sí mis- mas y en relación con otras... more

2025, Intorno a Van Dyck - Convegno internazionale di Studi 2019

Pdf before publication from
Antoon van Dyck tra Italia ed Europa. Quaderno di studi
Sagep Editori
A cura di Bava A. M., Failla M. B. e Spione G.
Genova, 2024; br., pp. 184, ill. col., cm 22x28.
(Sagep Arte).

2025, Pomorania Antiqua

The presented research concerns textiles from late medieval (ca. 14th century) graves Nos. 27 and 43, discovered in the cemetery as a result of research by Romuald Odoj in 1957. collected information, along with analysis of the grave goods, was to help to determine the social status of the buried people and to contribute to considerations on the interpretation of similar cemeteries in other parts of former east Prussia.
The HPLC-UV-Vis-MS/MS technique was used to analyse the dyes, which allows
for the detection of trace amounts of organic dyeing compounds in heavily degraded objects. The analysis showed that local plant and animal colourants were used to dye wool, covering colours from blue, through green, yellow, orange to red. The use of undyed wool was also confirmed. Another noteworthy find is the heraldic sign embossed on a leather fragment from grave 43. non-european dyes (indigo and shellac red) were identified on silk fragments, which corresponds to the Far eastern origin of the raw material. The studies carried out suggest that the people buried in the aforementioned graves belonged to the local elite, perhaps associated with the Teutonic stronghold of Wiesenburg. despite the presence of valuable fabrics, both the selection of some of the grave goods (amulets, a ‘Totenkrone’ type necklace) and the fact that they were buried in a cemetery outside the church boundaries indicate a strong connection between the deceased as well as their relatives and the local old Prussian ethnos. The presented results, apart from the partial reconstruction of the colours of the 14th-century Bartians' funeral attire, constitute a starting point for assessing the wealth, access to goods and susceptibility to the influence of christian culture among the old Prussian nobility.

2025, Velvets of the 15th century

2025, Studi Pesaresi

Le notizie biografiche su Giovanni Andrea Corsucci da Sassocorvaro sono veramente scarne e si ricavano quasi esclusivamente da un'attenta lettura della sua unica opera Il vermicello dalla seta pubblicato a Rimini per i tipi di Giovanni... more

2025

The article discusses the World Crafts Council (WCC), founded in 1964 during decolonisation, focusing on key organisers Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay from India and Marea Gazzard from Australia. The WCC expanded globally through the 1960s and 1970s, building a vast archive of letters that this article draws upon to argue that its policies encouraged the development of the category of the 'artist-craftsman', and was fundamentally different from Morris' Arts and Crafts Movement of the late nineteenth century. In Australia, crafts education and 'professional' craftsmanship were encouraged through numerous crafts institutions. In India, meanwhile, WCC correspondence with Chattopadhyay's Crafts Council of India, which she established in 1966, was dominated by debate over whether WCC was alienating itself from its core policies. Chattopadhyay felt the organisation was moving away from providing a platform to artisans from the newly decolonised countries to promote their skills and potential. She appears as the lone crusader for the decolonised countries, continuing to uphold the issues that were relevant to the initial phases of the WCC. The article concludes by highlighting Chattopadhyay's exasperations that culminated in her resignation, underscoring the WCC's evolution into an elite, bureaucratic body.

2025, Roma produttiva. Artigianato, manifattura e protoindustria nell’Urbe e in area laziale tra Medioevo e Rinascimento (XIII-XVI secolo)

ITA: Il contributo analizza le dinamiche produttive e commerciali tra Roma e la Tuscia tra il tardo Medioevo e la prima Età moderna, attraverso un confronto tra i dati archeologici ceramici e faunistici provenienti da Cencelle e da altri... more

2025

This letter was written from archaeologist William Meacham to historian Dr. Daniel C. Scavone on April 3, 1989, about six months after the C-14 results from the 1988 C-14 test were announced as AD 1260-1390. Both are still alive. I felt that the letter has value as a historic document, so I asked Meacham for and received his permission to reproduce it. That will be standard practice when I would like to reproduce letters from living individuals. Meacham mentioned to me that are some things in the letter he would change if he were writing it now.
The “Mineilli” mentioned, as Meacham recalls, was someone who had done a calculation about how much contamination would be required to shift the C14 from the first century to 1260-1390. “Vern Miller” was the scientific photographer for the 1978 team that studied the cloth; that group was known as The Shroud of Turin Research Project (STURP). “Stuart Fleming” was a textile expert. “Wolfli” was head of the Zurich lab, one of the three that dated the Shroud.

2025, Indumenta

El encaje se estudia en el contexto de las manufacturas textiles atendiendo a las formas organizativas de la producción y distribución, las condiciones de trabajo de las encajeras y la transmisión del oficio, uno de los pocos ejercidos en exclusiva por mujeres, a través de las escuelas de encaje, tomando en este caso el ejemplo de la ciudad de Madrid. Dada la escasez de estudios de amplio arco geográfico y cronológico, el presente trabajo se orienta a destacar la importancia que tuvo la industria del encaje en la economía del período y en la enseñanza de las niñas.

2025

What is meant by lace in the seventeenth century? The word had many different connotations in the seventeenth century from a lace to lace clothes together, through what today would be called braids, to needle laces and bobbin laces. This will examine how and where lace was made, who sold it, and who made it. Looking at images of surviving lace it will discuss how fashionable it was, who wore it and what garments they wore it on. What were the status implications of wearing lace. How much did people pay for lace, and could they afford it.

2025

In the captivating journey into the world of clothing and style, Tom Tierney is able to explore the culturally rich world of Renaissance fashion. Through a combination of research, and images he is able to bring to life the complex and intricate fashions of the time. The books' strength lies in its attention to detail. Through the use of images and captions he is able to bring the fabrics and embroidery to life. From the gowns worn by women of the court to the outfits

2025

Textilien im bergbaulichen Alltag. Erforschung, Erhaltung und Präsentation Tagung für Montanarchäologie, Restaurierung und museale Praxis 03.-04. Juli 2025 in Goslar Tagungsthema Arbeitskleidung, die möglichst gut vor Feuchtigkeit,... more

2025, Remigijus Venckus 2025. Paroda.LAISVĖ IR ATSITIKTINUMAS nuo grafikos iki tapybos

Venckus, R. (2025-05-17 – 2025-06-29). Laisvė ir atsitiktinumas: nuo grafikos iki tapybos. Kėdainių krašto muziejaus Janinos Monkutės-Marks muziejus-galerija: J. Basanavičiaus g. 45, Kėdainiai. Tapybos parodų portfolio:... more

2025, Karadeniz 15. uluslararası soyal Bilimler Kongresi

2025, Can studying Mao Zedong help explain Donald Trump?

From Yan'an to Mar-a-Lago Orville Schell on MAGA-Mao Echoes JORDAN SCHNEIDER AND LILY OTTINGER CHINA TALK, MAY 27 2025 Can studying Mao Zedong help explain Donald Trump? To find out, ChinaTalk interviewed the legendary sinologist... more