History of Textiles Research Papers (original) (raw)

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- Textiles, Africa, History of Textiles, West Africa
- by Penny Dransart
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- Archaeology, Anthropology, Ethnography, Textiles
- by Anísio Miguel de Sousa SARAIVA and +1
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- Medieval Studies, History of Textiles, Medieval Church History, Art (Medieval Studies)

Analysing textiles from Hallstatt in Austria always involves studying the whole chaîne opératoire. Due to their excellent preservation in the salt mine it is worth considering how the items were produced as well as the end point of the chaîne opératoire, the use, recycling and discarding. Additionally, the fi ndspot, Hallstatt, off ers insights into an interesting period for the development of textile crafts in prehistoric Europe: in the second and fi rst millennium BC many inventions and innovations fl ourished across Europe and transformed the textile world.

- by Karina Grömer and +1
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- Textiles, Material Culture Studies, History of Textiles, Textile Archaeology

Viking Age textiles with interwoven gold threads are rare in Scandinavia. Two such textiles were found in a Viking ship grave at Gokstad in Norway. Apart from brief overviews, the materials, techniques and find context of these textiles have not been described in detail before. The silk and gold embroidery was made with stem-stitch and simple laid-work. A madderdyed silk thread was used to make the flower pattern, in combination with a thread consisting of 80% pure gold lamella
with a core of silk. A similar gold thread was used in a narrow band found with the embroidery. The 4 mm to 4.5 mm wide
band is probably a remnant of tablet weaving. Both embroidery and band were found hidden inside a hollow ridgepole holding up the roof of a grave chamber. The precious gold and silk materials and the time-consuming and specialised technology used to make the gold thread suggests that these textiles were very valuable.

Hallstatt offers a unique situation for textile research: a major collection of textile finds, representing the period from the 16th to the 4th centuries BC, can be used to reflect the development of Central European textile expertise. Excellent preservation allows for the Chaîne opératoire, complete with manufacturing processes and secondary uses, to be charted

- by Karina Grömer
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- Archaeology, Prehistoric Archaeology, Textiles, History of Textiles

Our analysis suggests that the box from Burial Ц-301 contained three garments made from Chinese brocades. Two of them were probably gowns of Chinese manufacture, though they could have been made from Chinese cloth in Iran or the Byzantine Empire, while the third, showing no traces of cutting and tailoring could be a scarf, shawl or veil. There was also a linen shirt-waister gown with a blue skirt in the box. The gown was probably worn beneath a kind of blouse so that only the skirt was visible. It is not clear whether a samite strip is a trim of this gown, but, judging from the treatment of selvedge, if it were so the trim would run along the hem. Since the complete articles were not worn by the deceased but found in the box, it is unknown whether they make up a set. The wool fabric could be a part of a cloak/veil, but this interpretation is not unambiguous as the shape of the article cannot be reconstructed. It is worth noting that the collar of the brocade Dress1 is divided by an inner fold into two parts in theratio 1:2. The same division is recorded for collars from burials in the Dmitrov kremlin dated to the 12-thcentury AD and for trimming of gown collars of the Golden Horde period. It may be due to the inﬂuence of Chinese tradition adopted in the north and manifested in the treatment of certain costume details. Griﬃns and dragons having come from the south could inﬂuence the depiction of local mythical beasts. This ﬁnd demonstrates the complexity of interaction of occidental and oriental, northern and southern cultures.

We investigate pattern and process in the transmission of traditional weaving cultures in East and Southeast Asia. Our investigation covers a range of scales, from the experiences of individual weavers ('micro') to the broad-scale patterns of loom technologies across the region ('macro'). Using published sources, we build an empirical model of cultural transmission (encompassing individual weavers, the household and the community), focussing on where cultural information resides and how it is replicated and how transmission errors are detected and eliminated. We compare this model with macro-level outcomes in the form of a new dataset of weaving loom technologies across a broad area of East and Southeast Asia. The lineages of technologies that we have uncovered display evidence for branching, hybridization (reticulation), stasis in some lineages, rapid change in others and the coexistence of both simple and complex forms. There are some striking parallels with biological evolution and information theory. There is sufficient detail and resolution in our findings to enable us to begin to critique theoretical models and assumptions that have been produced during the last few decades to describe the evolution of culture.

- by Christopher D Buckley and +1
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- Archaeology, Prehistoric Archaeology, Anthropology, Southeast Asian Studies

Textiles have always been among the most popular goods of mankind. Considering their significance in the ancient Mediterranean and the Ancient Near East alike as well as their value as key economic assets, textiles hold a significant potential for the understanding of the ancient economy. Making them the subject of more detailed economic analyses in their own right is a central objective of the present volume. As it is neither possible to analyze distributional patterns and distribution channels for ancient textile material on the basis of written sources nor on the basis of archaeological findings alone, this volume brings together different source material, disciplines and methodological approaches, including modern Economics, to analyze textile material traded, trade-routes, sales and buying markets, and the forming and operating of institutions that ensured a smooth running of textile exchange processes.

- by Kerstin Droß-Krüpe and +1
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- Roman History, History of Textiles, Ancient Near East, Ancient Greek History
- by Anthony Tuck
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- History of Textiles

Die Wirtschaft der antiken Welt steht zunehmend im Mittelpunkt des Interesses der althistorischen Forschung. Obwohl seit Jahrzehnten vor allem um die quantitative wie qualitative Beurteilung des Handels in der Antike erbittert gerungen wird, wird in der Forschungsliteratur häufig nicht scharf zwischen Handel und Distribution differenziert. Um die Auswertung des antiken Quellenmaterials aus dem Mittelmeerraum mit dem aus dem Vorderen Orient zu verbinden, fand im April 2013 in Marburg eine interdisziplinäre Tagung statt, die sich der Thematik am Beispiel des Handels und der Distribution von Textilien vom 2. Jahrtausend v.Chr. bis ins frühe 2. Jahrtausend n.Chr. widmete.
Textilien eignen sich in besonderer Weise dazu, Einblicke in die Funktionsweise des antiken Warenaustauschs zu erhalten. Zwar gibt es bereits in vielen Disziplinen Forschungen zu Handel und Distribution von Textilien, aber diese werden häufig über die jeweiligen Fächergrenzen hinaus nicht wahrgenommen. Der zur Tagung gehörige Sammelband vereint daher Analysen internationaler Expertinnen und Experten aus unterschiedlichen Fachdisziplinen: Alte Geschichte, Altorientalistik, Archäologie, Textilforschung und Naturwissenschaften bilden den analytisch-methodischen Rahmen. Gerade der neuere Ansatz, dokumentarische Quellen mit archäologischen Funden und naturwissenschaftlichen Analysemethoden zu verknüpfen, erlaubt einen tief greifenden Einblick in die Funktionsweise antiker Warendistribution, der Auskunft über das „Wer?“, das „Wie?“ und das „Warum?“ gleichermaßen gibt. Überlegungen zu Absatz- und Beschaffungsmärkten, Warenpreisen und involvierten Akteuren (Institutionen) geben zudem entscheidende Informationen über den Warenaustausch im engeren Sinne hinaus.

- by Kerstin Droß-Krüpe
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- Economic History, Roman History, Papyrology, History of Textiles
- by Kerstin Droß-Krüpe and +1
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- Archaeology, History of Textiles, Greek Papyrology, Roman Textile Production

Textiles produced by Tai-Kadai peoples are widely admired and much studied, but to date there has been no comparative survey of weaving techniques. Looms and techniques are transmitted between generations in a conservative manner, and have the potential to reveal deep connections between different groups. In this paper I present a survey of loom and patterning techniques, using a mapping approach, combined with comparative analysis similar to that used by linguists. The results trace Tai migration routes, and parallel the findings of linguists in many respects, with some significant differences. They also highlight the important contribution made by Tai-Kadai weavers to the development of the complex patterning systems (drawloom systems) that eventually found their way to the silk weaving industry in Europe.

Summary
Revised edition of an article originally published in 1986 in a journal for the history of textile industry. It deals with the policy of the Table of the Holy Spirit in 's-Hertogenbosch, the largest poor care board in this city, concerning the supply of woollen and linen cloths which the master of the Table distributed among the poor and gave to his permanent staff. Between 1435 and 1637 the supply of woollen and linen manufactures was developing from a mainly self support system to a market oriented system. Most cloths were bought from producers outside the city because the urban cloth manufacture was specializing into expensive, luxury cloths and finishing of raw cloths. The Table only needed cheap cloths.

- by Peter Scholliers
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- History, Gender Studies, Women's Studies, Women's History

The publication retains a catalogue-like structure already used for earlier books of “Lithuanian Religious Art” which is considered by the authors of this book to be the most consistent and convenient way to introduce the heritage of each church and chapel. The book includes all items of arts and crafts with artistic, historical, typological or other value that have been found during expeditions because the authors follow a modern approach to the research of religious art which states that the artistic value cannot be the only and determining criteria of the item`s value.
A comprehensive research of the history, architecture and artistic heritage of Joniškis Deanery published in the three books substantially adds to the history of this land and its culture – a catholic culture first of all. It allows discerning some general features of historic development and artistic expression typical for this Northern Lithuanian region in addition to the revelation of the unique destinies of each church and chapel, architectural peculiarities and properties of interior ensembles and individual art works. It is the local history and clergymen, parishioners, customers and masters who lived and worked here who essentially determined and formed the diversity of architectural and artistic heritage which has survived in the region.
All liturgical vestments founded in the churches and chapels of Joniškis Deanery are represented in the texts by Gabija Surdokaitė-Vitienė.

The main problem hindering proper analysis and documentation of archaeological and historical textiles is the lack of co-operation between scientists dealing with different aspects of these objects -archaeological, artistic, historical and technological. The last one includes the examining of manufacturing methods and analysis of the raw material and dyes used by chemical and physicochemical analysis methods, which is fundamental for proper identification of the object, as well as its origin and dating. The methods include: SEM, ICP, ATR/FTIR and AAS for determination of the raw material and other components of the object, the archaeological environment, analysis of the biodeterioration of archaeological textiles, as well as HPLC for analysis of the colour. This paper presents the methods and exemplary results of research conducted by the authors at the Technical University of Lodz, involving the analysing of archaeological textiles from the area of Poland and historical textiles from the collections of Polish museums.

- by Maria Cybulska
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- Archaeology, Analytical Chemistry, Art History, Textiles

At the turn of the twentieth century, the sampling market is moving from a trade-based industry to a service-oriented contemporary of the rise of the consulting and advertising businesses. The Parisian economy in the clothing industry is in accelerated motion and samplers belong to this core group of small apparel companies that ensure the complementarity between trade and technology.
As early as 1908-1910 the first fashion « défilés » are part of this growing segment of the the fashion industry which becomes more and more service-oriented In 1912 and 1914 the sampler Jean Claude Frères sends two letters to a silk fabric in the Lyon region. The samplers are no longer exclusively intermediaries that select, cut and serve. They gradually become mediators, observers or later prescribers to enhance the process of transmission of information.
This process of mediation will continue during the war to the measure of the availability of the raw material in Paris. The year 1915 will be complicated and samplers interrupt deliveries they will resume after 1916 smoothly. The war disrupted the process of mediation in the Paris fashion industries but it dot stop it. Samplers kept their relationships with their fabric suppliers established in the provinces or abroad.

- by Thierry Maillet
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- History of Textiles, Fashion History, WWI, Fashion and Design Trends

Catalogue co-authored in collaboration with Georgette Cornu (main author) and Alexandre Fiette.

- by Penny Dransart
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- Archaeology, Iconography, Textiles, History of Textiles

This article is concerned with patterns of meaning, created by the assemblage of component parts, as inscripting topographies of racialised literacy. It argues that surfaces, either raised or recessed, tenured understanding to the economies of print and textile within colonial perception. The industrialization of print and textile overlapped chronologically with the exploration, settlement and expansion of frontiers in Australia, from 1780-1840. These technologies created distinct impressions and provided various forms of coverage. Their facility for reproduction and reiteration entrenched the colonial social matrix from which racial identities and their divisions emerged.

- by Liz Conor
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- History of Textiles, Colonialism, Printing History, Australian History
- by Rodrigo Montani
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- Indigenous or Aboriginal Studies, Art, Textiles, History of Textiles
- by Elif KURTULDU DÖNMEZ and +1
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- History of Textiles, Turkish Culture, Knitting, Textile Design

Article in "Business History Review" 80 (autumn 2006): 486-538.

- by Regina Lee Blaszczyk
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- Business History, History of Textiles, Interior Design, Fashion History

Kyoto people have an expression, 'kidaore'. If you kidaore, you dress to destruction: you spend all of your money on clothing and fashion. How we dress and represent ourselves is integral to our cultural identity but dress is more than merely a visual representation of self. A sensory approach to dress and textiles reveals that not only do they embody memory and knowledge of cultural practices, but can also convey traditional morals, expectations and roles. The concept of kidaore highlights the importance of dress and textiles for Kyoto people; Kyoto is considered by Japanese to be the cultural heart of Japan, thereby illustrating the wider significance of the textile and fashion industry. Fashion throughout much of Japanese history has provided a codified communication of status, class and rank, but it has also been shown to mould and refine the body within. In the 21st century, Kyoto designers continue to link the present with the past by using traditional designs and manufacturing methods. By combining contemporary functionality with these long-established designs and technologies, they produce the latest cutting-edge fashions. This paper will examine three contemporary Kyoto fashion labels—Pagong, Sou Sou and Kyoto Denim—to consider how their designs, informed by the embodied practices of the past, act as a self-conscious vehicle for the expression of Japanese culture, communicating both traditional and renegotiated meanings.

- by Jenny Hall
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- Japanese Studies, Anthropology of Dress, Textiles, Japanese Language And Culture

This paper compares three textile companies, who take different approaches to industry network organisations and are positioned in more central or peripheral sites within the industry cluster/s. It considers the difference in their corporate strategy and actions resulting from their central and peripheral positions within the industry structure. The companies examined are British printed textile firms, working in the 1920s and 1930s. The printed textile sector is the focus of study as it was subject to major economic, market, technical and stylistic changes during this period and had a multiplicity of different network organisations active in the industry.

- by Emily Baines
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- Business History, Corporate Entrepreneurship, History of Textiles, Design Innovation

Between 1700 and 1830, men and women in the English-speaking territories framing the Atlantic gained unprecedented access to material things. The British Atlantic was an empire of goods, held together not just by political authority and a common language, but by a shared material culture nourished by constant flows of commodities. Diets expanded to include exotic luxuries such as tea and sugar, the fruits of mercantile and colonial expansion. Homes were furnished with novel goods, like clocks and earthenware teapots, the products of British industrial ingenuity. This groundbreaking book compares these developments in Britain and North America, bringing together a multi-disciplinary group of scholars to consider basic questions about women, men, and objects in these regions. In asking who did the shopping, how things were used, and why they became the subject of political dispute, the essays show the profound significance of everyday objects in the eighteenth-century Atlantic world.

- by John Styles and +1
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- Economic History, History of Dress, Consumers & Consumption, Design History

In the collection of Vatopediou Monastery (Mount Athos) there is a Late Byzantine vestment called by the monks the “Arabic stole” (arabikon ōmophorion). This quite unique vestment probably owes its name to two bands of embroidered Arabic inscriptions on the lower part of each end. It is one of the very few known Byzantine religious objects to feature legible Arabic inscriptions, a visible symbol of Islamic otherness juxtaposed with the standard Christian iconography. Apart from bringing into the spotlight a medieval vestment that has been overlooked by scholars, this article traces possible sources of artistic transfer through a discussion of texts and extant objects. Finally, it aims at expanding our understanding of the reception of Islamic art in Late Byzantium, a time of both political decline and cultural renewal.

- by Elena Tsareva
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- Textiles, History of Textiles, Northern Eurasia

"Le genêt d’Espagne n’est actuellement qu’une plante sauvage, omniprésente dans les friches de notre région. Pourtant - les plus anciens d’entre nous s’en souviennent - il y a un peu plus d’un demi-siècle, ce même genêt était récolté pour produire des fibres textiles.
Ce fut alors la dernière phase d’une vieille activité artisanale typique du Lodévois, pratiquée, avant le XIXe siècle, dans quelques localités centrées sur les vallées de la Lergue et du Salagou.
Dans ce livre, des spécialistes de diverses disciplines mettent en évidence l’histoire des usages et des techniques autour du genêt à différentes époques. Car en plus de la fabrication de fil et de linge, la plante servait aussi à nourrir le bétail et, plus généralement, à valoriser les terrains les plus médiocres."

- by Sylvain OLIVIER
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- History, Modern History, Economic History, Botany
- by Sílvia Carbonell Basté
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- History of Textiles, Museum Collection history
- by Barbara Wittmann
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- Art History, Textiles, History of Textiles, Cultural History Of Ghosts
- by Jessica Harpley
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- History of Dress, Gender History, Eighteenth Century History, History of Textiles

Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials. We used contemporary fabrics which are similar to historical prototypes by changing physical and mechanical properties. New method includes 3D-to-2D flattening; finding the air gaps in "avatar-skirt" system; choosing textile materials and number of underskirt garments; generating of digital replica. The adequacy of historical prototypes to its virtual replica is full due to CAD, new developed modules, and data base.

- by Aleksei Moskvin and +1
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- History of Dress, History of Textiles, Dress and the Body, History of clothing and fashion

O.V. Orfinskaia, Y.V. Stepanova. On the Issue of Origins of Russian Traditional Dress with Shoulder Straps
The article draws on a variety of archaeological, written, and ethnographic sources in an attempt to examine the issue of origins of the traditional Russian shirt with shoulder straps (polika). The pri-mary sources for the study are archaeological data from the 16th –17th -century burials at the Voznesen-skii monastery of the Moscow Kremlin. The authors analyze a variety of 12th–18th
-century images depicting the decoration and speciﬁc features of the Russian dress. They argue that the origins of the shirts with shoulder straps could therefore go back to the 11th –13th
-century period, and make conclu-sions about the further development of the style.

- by Yuliya Stepanova and +1
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- History of Costume, History of Textiles, Textile Archaeology, Archaeological textiles and clothing

Did the collapse of the male-dominated wool industry and emergence of the female-dominant silk industry change how Florentine textile workers lived in and moved through their city? One fifth of mid-sixteenth-century Florentine households were headed by a woman, in most cases a widow. Many were involved in the silk and wool industries, particularly the former which was built on the underpaid labor of semiskilled workers laboring either in domestic settings or enclosed institutions. Can digital humanities (DH) provide the tools by which we can trace the various effects of this profound economic shift in Florence's critical textile industries? At this stage of research, it is clear that the tools provided by one DH project, when combined with more traditional social historical research methods, can indeed help us measure and visualize some aspects of the change, even if limits in the original data prevent us from developing as full a picture as we might wish. 1 This chapter will briefly review the broad outlines of this economic and demographic shift before turning to consider what the key sources may tell us when we extract, tabulate, and geo-reference the data. Of course, those recording that data had other questions in mind, and we cannot assume that those offering it had any investment in its accuracy-indeed, very much to the contrary when it was a tax census that was being assembled. Yet by reading property, occupational, and demographic data in conjunction with other sources, we can gain more from both, and move further toward answering questions that those of the sixteenth or seventeenth-or twentieth-centuries might not have thought worth asking. Using digital tools together with other sources, makes it possible to chart how economic activity, social discipline, occupational regulation, and charity developed in Florence through a period of intense political and economic change. In particular, it is possible to trace how these factors, refracted through the lens of gender and poverty, shaped social networks, urban settlement, and mobility among distinct groups of marginal and enclosed females (orphans, prostitutes, nuns). This allows

Article in the "Journal of Design History" 21, no. 1 (2008): 75-99.

- by Regina Lee Blaszczyk
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- Design History, History of Textiles, Fashion History, Synthetic Fibers