Dermatologists Explain the Skincare Benefits of Glycolic Acid (original) (raw)

If you're looking to simplify your skincare routine with a product that provides all the benefits of minimized pores, younger-looking skin and a clear, radiant complexion, keep your eyes peeled (pun intended) for glycolic acid.

This beneficial ingredient is an all-in-one solution to your greatest skin troubles from aging to acne — glycolic acid takes care of it all. It’s one ingredient that you should definitely consider adding to your skincare playbook.

So, what is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), an organic, carbon-containing molecule. According to Jessica Krant, a board-certified dermatologist of the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York, this molecule naturally occurs in sugar cane and fruits. Some other AHAs you may be familiar with include lactic acid and citrus acid. Note that these should not be confused with beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid. While AHAs are water soluble and are mainly used to chemically exfoliate skin, BHAs are fat soluble and can penetrate into pores to unclog blackheads. AHAs are generally incorporated into peels and toners while BHAs are typically seen in acne control products, including cleansers and moisturizers.

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“Glycolic acid helps to separate the connections between keratinocytes [skin cells] in the outer layers of skin without rough, mechanical exfoliation techniques and promotes exfoliation,” Dr. Krant says. “In this way, it can artificially speed up cell turnover and bring fresher, younger cells to the surface.”

What are the benefits of glycolic acid?

“I think people underestimate how much glycolic acid does,” says Sapna Palep, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Spring Street Dermatology in NYC. “It works for anti-aging. It’s very good for acne. It stops acne from the get-go — from the comedone stage. [Patients] come to me like, ‘I hate these blackheads on my nose, and my pores feel so big.’ I put them on glycolic right away.”

As Dr. Palep says, this skincare superstar has a long list of benefits, including:

• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles. "Glycolic acid, at concentrations consistent to those found in skincare products, has been shown to minimize the appearance of photo-aged skin," says Danusia Wnek, Senior Chemist at the GH Beauty Lab. In a clinical study, an 8% glycolic acid formula showed significant improvement in overall photo-damaged skin, and the tester feedback echoed those results: according to a questionnaire completed after the study, testers noted that the formula significantly improved fine lines, amongst other skin attributes, after 22 weeks.
• **Minimizes the appearance of pores. "**This happens by removing dead skin cells that can get caught inside of them," says Corey L. Hartman, M.D., founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. "While nothing can actually change the size of your pores, when they are clean and not clogged with oil and dead skin they appear smaller."
• Removes dead skin cells. "Glycolic acid dissolves the bonds that hold the cells together," says Dr. Hartman.
• Helps fight acne. "By exfoliating the top layer of dead skin on the skin’s surface, you minimize the risk that the old, dead skin gets mixed with sebum, which creates acne," says Dr. Hartman.
• Evens out skin tone. "Glycolic acid has been shown to statistically improve discoloration and skin texture at a level of 5% when compared to a placebo in this study," shares Wnek.

Another bonus: glycolic acid is safe for new mothers to use, says Dr. Palep. Since certain beauty ingredients, such as BHAs and retinol, should be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding, “it’s a lifesaver for women during this period of time.”

The best way to use glycolic acid

“Glycolic acid can be found in all sorts of products, from washes to toners to medical grade chemical peels,” says Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist, and founder of Mudgil Dermatology in NYC. “The use really depends on the exact preparation.”

Regardless of whatever product you choose, you will see benefits from any concentration percentage, says Dr. Krant. “Glycolic acid works every time you use it, and it begins to work immediately.” Dr. Krant advises to only use products with a maximum concentration of 10% at home. “Stronger formulations can be applied by your board-certified dermatologist in-office, but should only be applied by people with extensive experience and training in chemical peels.”

Are there any side effects of glycolic acid?

People usually don’t experience side effects from using glycolic acid, but for “those with dry or sensitive skin, it can be irritating,” says Dr. Mudgil. “Low percentage washes can be used daily without issue in those with oily skin, whereas medical grade peels may only be tolerated once a month.”

Although it’s uncommon, the worst side effects that people can experience is due to uncareful use of higher percentage glycolic acid products. “Glycolic acid is an acid that can burn or scar skin,” warns Dr. Krant. “Excessive redness, a lingering burning sensation, skin turning grayish-white or — worst-case scenario — skin blistering and sloughing off immediately are all signs of possible danger and permanent scarring.”

Additionally, "people with darker skin should be aware that overuse of glycolic acid can lead to hyperpigmentation — the exact opposite of what most people are using glycolic acid for," says Dr. Hartman. "People with darker skin have a higher percentage of melanin in their skin and small irritations likes redness and peeling can trigger an inflammatory response, which can often lead to hyperpigmentation." If you are concerned about this, he recommends starting slow and using a glycolic acid product with a low percentage, once per week. If your body tolerates the product well, increase the usage to one to two times per week.

Can you use glycolic acid daily?

"As a leave-on treatment, I don't recommend using glycolic acid every day because it can cause excessive irritation," says Wnek. "Incorporate it slowly into your routine and work your way up to every other day or every two days, if tolerated."

Wnek notes that the one time it can be used daily is in cleansers at lower concentrations, "but again slowly incorporate it into your routine," she advises.

Is glycolic acid better than vitamin C and retinol?

"Glycolic acid is a great complement to a skincare routine that uses vitamin C and retinol, but I wouldn’t say it is better than either ingredient, or that should you replace using vitamin C and retinol with glycolic acid," says Dr. Hartman.

Which ingredients to avoid with glycolic acid

Dr. Hartman advises against using glycolic acid with salicylic acid, vitamin C, retinol or benzoyl peroxide to minimize the risk of irritation. "You can use those ingredients in other parts of your routine, but not at the same time, on the same day," he explains. "For example, if you regularly apply a retinol serum at night, but want to try glycolic acid, apply the glycolic acid product and skip your retinol for a couple of nights. If you have sensitive skin, skip using any other kind of exfoliating product on the day you use glycolic acid."

The difference between glycolic acid and salicylic acid

As we mentioned above, glycolic acid is an AHA and salicylic acid is a BHA. "Glycolic acid molecules are smaller and they work by exfoliating the top layers of the skin, helping skin shed old, dead skin cells and reveal newer skin underneath, which leads to a more even skin texture and tone," says Dr. Hartman.

Salicylic acid is the most common BHA and is typically used to treat and prevent breakouts. "It is found in all types of formulations for acne-prone skin including cleansers and moisturizers," says Wnek. "Salicylic acid also exfoliates, but it does it by removing excess oil, which helps clear congested skin, reducing clogged pores and minimizing blackheads."

Does glycolic acid have benefits for hair or body?

Yes, glycolic acid can work its magic on more than just the face. "Products with glycolic acid can be used successfully on the body, particularly underarms where the exfoliating properties of the molecules can help brighten skin," says Dr. Hartman. Many people who shave under their arms may find that the skin is darker there. "This is due to repeated 'injury' to the area through microscopic nicks from the razor blade to the skin’s surface," he explains. "The body’s natural immune response sends signals to the area to repair those tiny cuts, which can lead to an overproduction of melanin, darkening the skin." Glycolic acid helps to exfoliate, brighten and smooth this skin, which may ease shaving efforts.

How to choose the best glycolic acid products

Since the best products for you will depend on your skin type, you should always consult your dermatologist first. If your skin is more sensitive or dry, look for products that have a lower glycolic acid percentage (around 5%).

It’s also important to take extra measures to protect yourself from sun damage. Glycolic acid, along with other AHAs, increase your skin’s sensitivity to harmful UV rays. Be sure to generously apply sunscreen, wear hats and stay in the shade to reduce your sun exposure throughout the day.

Tatiana Velasco is a New York City-based beauty writer who joined Good Housekeeping in 2020 as a Beauty Intern and continues to produce stories for the brand as a freelancer. She received a Bachelor of Arts in journalism at New York University where she also worked as a writer and editor for the student newspaper, Washington Square News. She is passionate about skincare, hair care, health and fitness. When she’s not researching and sampling beauty products, you can find her working out at the gym, hiking on the Appalachian Trail or relaxing with a good book.

Dori Price is a New York City-based freelance writer and editor and beauty, style and wellness expert who was the Beauty & Fashion Director at Family Circle for 13 years before she joined Good Housekeeping, Prevention and Woman’s Day as a freelance beauty editor. She has also written for WomensHealthMag.com, Elle.com and HealthCentral.com.