Retinal vs. Retinol: Which Should You Choose (original) (raw)

Whether you're a skincare pro or just have a simple daily routine, chances are you've heard of retinol, the gold standard among cosmetic retinoids. "Its benefits include increasing collagen, which helps with slowing down the formation of wrinkles, as well as improving texture, the appearance of pores, acne, scars and even pigment," says Dhaval G. Bhanusali, M.D., a dermatologist and founder of Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery in New York City. You'll typically see retinol in a serum or cream and it's meant to be used at nighttime before bed.

News flash: Retinol is no longer the hottest vitamin A derivative in town. Meet retinal, another anti-aging ingredient that can pack even more line-smoothing, skin tone-evening punch than retinol. "Retinal generally refers to retinaldehyde — you could see either name on a product's packaging — and has many of the same effects as prescription-strength retinoic acid, just not as strong," says Dr. Bhanusali.

What is the difference between retinol and retinal — and which is better?

Retinal and retinol are part of a group of vitamin A derivatives called retinoids. Both are OTC versions — there are also prescription-strength options, like Tretinoin — that are available without a doctor's visit and at a much lower price than their Rx cousins. While one isn't better than the other, "retinal is faster-acting than retinol, so it can be more effective, but also more irritating,” says Danusia Wnek, a senior chemist at the Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty, Health & Sustainability Lab. “It’s great for those who are not ready for a prescription retinoid.”

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"Unlike retinol that requires two conversions from retinoic acid, retinal is closer to the active form, only requiring one conversion," she explains. "It is not as commonly used as a cosmetic retinoid because it is harder to stabilize than retinol." While retinal works a little quicker, both can take several weeks of consistent use to see these benefits.

What are the benefits of retinal?

"A stabilized formula containing retinal can improve the look of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation when used regularly," says Wnek. This study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology "found that retinaldehyde showed significant improvement in skin's texture, fine lines, hydration and transepidermal water loss when used twice daily over 12 weeks," she shares.

Dr. Bhanusali explains that while the length of time to see results varies from person to person, retinal has many of the same effects as retinoic acid. "I generally recommend it for evening out skin and helping to stimulate collagen, less so for acne," he adds.

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Which skin types and concerns is retinal best for?

"Retinal is great for those who would like something stronger than retinol but are not ready for a prescription retinoid," says Wnek. It works well on most skin types, but if your skin is on the more sensitive side, stick with retinol until your skin has fully adapted to its effects.

Does retinal have any side effects?

"Similar to retinol, retinal can cause redness, stinging, dryness and/or flaking," says Wnek. For these reasons, Dr. Bhanusali says it's important to start slow (a few times per week) and work your way up.

What should someone look for in an effective retinal product?

"Because retinal products are considered a cosmetic, the percentage does not need to be disclosed on the packaging," says Wnek. "It is typically found up to 0.1% in a serum or cream formula." As we mentioned above, retinaldehyde is less commonly used in cosmetics compared to retinol because it is harder to stabilize. Wnek suggests looking for the terms “stabilized” or “encapsulated” on the packaging or product description.

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Wnek also notes that you shouldn't compare the percentage of retinal (if listed) to other vitamin A derivates because the ingredients are not created equal. "These concentrations are different than prescription retinoids like Tretinoin, which is prescribed in percentages between 0.01-0.1%, and can be significantly stronger."

What’s the best way to use a retinal product?

We'll say it one more time so it really hits home: You should always start slow and let your skin adjust to this active ingredient. "Alternate nights of application and increase frequency to nightly once your skin adjusts," advises Wnek. "You can also try applying a moisturizer before your retinal to reduce irritation."

Dr. Bhanusali recommends using a simple retinal formula with minimal ingredients and advises patients to follow his two week rule: No other new products should be introduced during that time and avoid harsh exfoliating acids to allow you to see how you tolerate this new product. "If you have very sensitive skin, you may want to start with a retinol, then graduate to a retinal and eventually use a prescription retinoic acid to get the optimal benefits," he says.

Last, don't forget to use sunscreen daily when using any retinoid product, including retinal.

Retinal Treatments to Try

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Murad Retinal ReSculpt Eye Lift Treatment

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Dori Price is a New York City-based freelance writer and editor and beauty, style and wellness expert who was the Beauty & Fashion Director at Family Circle for 13 years before she joined Good Housekeeping, Prevention and Woman’s Day as a freelance beauty editor. She has also written for WomensHealthMag.com, Elle.com and HealthCentral.com.

Danusia (she/her) is a senior chemist in the Beauty, Health and Sustainability Lab at the Good Housekeeping Institute where she evaluates haircare, skincare, cosmetics and beauty tools. She holds a B.S. in chemistry from St. John’s University and a M.S. in pharmaceutical sciences with concentration in cosmetic science from the University of Cincinnati. Danusia has over 10 years of experience in the personal care industry including formulation, product development, claim evaluation and efficacy testing.