Bratislava bridges the gap between beautiful and barmy quite brilliantly (original) (raw)
Some people collect stamps or dolls, others go for foreign coins or football programmes. I bag bridges. Or at least I enjoy looking at and crossing them.
Big, small, stone, brick, concrete or metal, they can be things of beauty and engineering marvels.
The magnificent Forth Rail Bridge in Scotland is my favourite. I’ve a soft spot for the one across the River Mersey at Runcorn, Cheshire (childhood memories); the Iron Bridge in Shropshire is a photogenic showstopper; Sydney, Golden Gate and Panama’s Americas are stunners, and I really must drive across the amazing Millau in the south of France some time.
But there is a new span vying for my attention – the bridge across the River Danube in Bratislava, the delightful, neat capital of the little central European nation of Slovakia.
The Novy Most (literally “new bridge” but formally the Slovak National Uprising Bridge) itself is a fairly unremarkable 1972 concrete suspension job.
But what makes it fabulously special is the fact that the designers – it was a project by the communist rulers who flattened Bratislava’s old Jewish quarter to build the approach roads – decided to plonk a UFO on top of the main tower. As you do.
It’s gloriously nuts and worth every cent of the €6.50 to get in the lift, head up the main support tower and on up a flight of steep stairs to the viewing platform.
Snap happy: Nigel with the Paparazzo statue
The handsome vista to the north takes in the Danube, the beautiful historic centre and the stout castle of Bratislava, and out to the hilly suburbs. You’ll snap away. But to the south, it’s a grim collection of monumental apartment blocks, an oil refinery and, in the distance, the nondescript flatlands of Austria and Hungary. Some contrast.
Back inside the “UFO” there’s a fairly pricey restaurant - you’re paying for the views – and a cafe serving excellent coffee while offering interesting vibrations when the traffic thunders across.
Perhaps this explains why on my walk back across the bridge to the north shore I found several large lumps of concrete that had fallen off.
The cafe also has a very unusual gents’ loo with a view – the urinals are metal buckets!
You’ll also spot an unusual life-size statue of a paparazzo photographer leaning on the bar in the cafe as if focusing on the historic centre.
Like the UFO itself, it’s one of Bratislava’s quirky features.
River view: The city sits on the Danube
Originally peeping round the wall of a restaurant in the largely pedestrianised historic centre, it was moved to the UFO when the restaurant closed (the UFO owners had paid for the statue). But you don’t have to go to there to spot one of these artwork curiosities – there’s a soldier of Napoleon’s army leaning on a bench in the pleasant Hlavne namestie main square and a worker emerging from a sewer close by.
But is he sneakily looking up women’s skirts? He’s much-photographed and perfect for stubbing your toe on at night.
My home in the city for two days was the modern, well-run and comfortable Mercure Bratislava Centrum Hotel.
It’s about 15 minutes or so to walk to the old town but handy for the station, and there are trolleybuses and trams if you don’t fancy a stroll.
Near the station there’s a transport museum, which is fine fodder for all lovers of old central European trains, cars, bicycles and so forth (admission €3.30).
Central: The city's cathedral
It’s also handy for the Slavin memorial on a hill overlooking the city.
This is an imposing 1960 pillar built to commemorate the 6,000 Soviet soldiers killed liberating the Bratislava region. Quite a climb up – it was the snowy tail-end of winter when I visited, but worth the effort.
It’s a bit of a climb up to the castle too but it should certainly be on your must-see list. Entry to the grounds is free and there are a few nice old restaurants on the way up from the old town.
The castle was badly damaged by fire in the early 19th century and today’s structure is mostly a 1950s renovation.
It costs from €6 to get in, and in truth a lot of the museum aspect is a bit tedious apart from some interesting coins and medallions from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and a fine display of WW1 weapons and uniforms.
The best bit is undoubtedly the climb up the Crown Tower for great views (beware, the steps are steep).
That’s followed by your descent to the bottom to see the 1,000-year-old crown of the old Hungarian monarchy. At one point, curiously, this was placed in Fort Knox.
If you have time, the ruins of Devin Castle are five miles out of town and feature a turret perched precariously on a rock. Admission is €2 and it’s served by buses and a ferry.
Bratislava is a winning, friendly little city with a handsome cathedral and national theatre too.
On a short break you’re most likely to spend a fair bit of your time just wandering around the delightful old town and taking advantage of the shops, cafes, bars and restaurants.
And of course looking at the bonkers UFO bridge and asking, “why?”
Eating out in Bratislava
When it comes to food and drink, it’s pretty good and pretty cheap. A coffee in a cafe starts at €1, and local beer also costs from €1 for a draught half-pint. Just watch out, as some of the brews resemble rocket fuel.
One place I’d happily recommend is the touristy and Tardis-like Slovak pub on the popular Obchodna street just outside the old town. A tasty and filling traditional stew and bread with a soft drink costs €6, and there were plenty of locals there too.
Just down the road is the Soviet-themed KGB bar, which was friendly and diverting.
And for a great, good-value lunch, head to Bagel & Coffee Story in the Hlavne namestie main square. Around €4 gets you the delicious lunch special of soup of the day and a filled hot bagel.
Get there
Lowcostholidays has 3nts B&B at the 4* Mercure Bratislava Centrum Hotel in Bratislava in Jul from £148pp based on 2 sharing inc flights from Stansted; Birmingham departures from £182pp. lowcostholidays.com 0800 1116271
Tourist info: visit.bratislava.sk/en/ - slovakia.travel/en
Time zone: UK +1hr
Currency: Euro £1 = 1.38
Best time to go: Try a Brat package any time