European island with almost no adultery has its own beluga sanctuary (original) (raw)

Gazing in awe at Iceland’s 650ft high Elephant Rock, I idly wondered if it had a more personal name. Given its Land of Ice and Fire location and size, I mused about something Norse-y and mighty along the lines of Tuskk-Glaciersplitter or Trunkk-Lavaslayer.

Nope. Apparently the locals nicknamed this huge lump of basalt, which does look remarkably like a posing pachyderm, with something much more simple. So just Kevin it is, but he’s an internet sensation that draws visitors from around the world.

Certainly Kev is one of the star sights on a cruise-ship excursion from Holland America’s Nieuw Statendam, anchored off Heimaey island, part of the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago. Our boisterous boat trip guide is “B”– she tells us her full Icelandic name is unpronounceable for English speakers – and she is a somewhat amusingly sweary font of knowledge for all things Heimaey.

Iceland’s 650ft high Elephant Rock is a huge internet attraction (

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The striking Hallgrmskirkja cathedral in Reykjavik, Iceland, at sunset (

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As we circumnavigate the five sq/mile island, B bombards us with fascinating and fun facts about Kev, the community and its plentiful wildlife, which includes the world’s biggest puffin colony, when one million of the cute-but-clumsy little birds return for the summer from the UK and Norway. (Puffins are fine flyers once airborne, but their take-offs from the sea are a joy to watch as they run across the surface in a mesmerising frenzy of legs pumping and wings flapping away at 400 beats per minute.)

We also learn how guillemots poo on their eggs to form a layer that protects them from overheating on the rocky cliff face nests, why Heimaey is the third windiest place in Europe at a lively 134mph, and how infidelity and crime on the island are virtually non-existent because the islanders really do know everybody and everything and you just won’t get away with it!

The elegant lines of Holland America's Nieuw Statendam cruise ship (

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B also tells us about hunting lodges on smaller islets which host wild drinks parties and a man’s naked booze-fuelled Covid isolation. Less riotously, we learn how locals rescue baby puffins (aka pufflings) every August and September after they are attracted to the town-centre lights and become stranded.

We also spot Surtsey, an island which was created by an underwater volcano in 1963. Before heading back to ship there is time for a tour of the world’s only beluga whale sanctuary with its two residents (they also have a secure ocean bay home) and its puffin hospital, where injured birds are rehabilitated.

Then, oh so conveniently, I found the queue for the tenders back to the ship was so long I had no alternative but to sit it out at a sunny, if chilly, table with a couple of local beers and free popcorn at the nearby Brothers Brewery.

Reykjavik's legendary Bæjarins Beztu hotdog stand, where the likes of President Clinton have tucked in (

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I’d joined Nieuw Statendam in Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik, where there was time to see the distinctive Hallgrimskirkja cathedral and go for “one with everything” at the fabled Bæjarins Beztu hotdog stand, where the likes of President Clinton have tucked in.

Having been on Nieuw Statendam in 2019, it was great to be back on board a lovely ship with excellent cabins and, after meeting friendly stewards Tony and Dasani, there was a sailaway view of Reykjavik and the thin plume of ash from the gently erupting, more oozing really, Sundhnúkur volcano.

This voyage was in early June when sunset is just before midnight (very weird!) and it rises barely three hours later, so you might want to pack eyeshades.

The weather gods had evidently got out of bed on the wrong side the next day and our Captain said it was too windy for the ship’s tenders to safely access the next port, Djúpivogur, for excursions to Vatnajökull National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. At least we had seen Vatnajökull glacier en route.

Nigel meeting the locals in in Heimaey island, Iceland (

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Nessie made an appearance in Invergordon, Scotland

So, an unexpected sea day, and, like good sailors everywhere, we went drinking. Hitting the Ocean Bar at 11am for a Holland America mixologists’ cocktail demo and tasting (Ocean at 11, surely a crime to miss it!) took some Dutch courage.

Playing it safe with just a few sips of the concoctions created by Bart, Alfred and Rov, I found Copenhagen Drum was ferociously strong, Rotterdam Runner quite sweet and Amsterdam Ambrosia, with flaming orange garnish, perilously good.

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With the sun barely over the yardarm, recovery time was needed with plenty of fresh sea air on deck before a memorable pan-Asian meal at the superb Tamarind restaurant (extra fee $35).

New day, new country. After a night of frisky North Atlantic seas (NB: understatement), welcome to Bonnie Scotland and Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkney Isles, for a good excursion to the ancient sites of the Ring of Brodgar then Skara Brae, by a bracing Skaill Beach.

Skara Brae Neolithic village in the Orkney islands is older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids (

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Brodgar is an impressive henge and 340ft diameter stone circle – with several skylarks singing overhead – while Skara Brae is Europe’s most complete Neolithic village, featuring 10 wonderfully preserved flagstone homes dating back around 5,000 years, so even older than the Pyramids or Stonehenge. A memorable sight in a fine coastal setting.

Both are part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see. Your cruise excursion ticket for Skara Brae also includes entry to Skaill House, a nearby historic manor worth a quick wander round.

Back on board, it was a return to Tamarind to experience the Morimoto By Sea pop-up where Chef Masaharu Morimoto, Holland America’s Global Fresh Fish Ambassador, showcases anything from sushi to teriyaki and ramen via a truly memorable Angry Lobster Pad Thai. On the subject of marine life, an early start at the next port, Invergordon, near Inverness, found me on a coach trip through glorious Highland scenery to join a boat trip on Loch Ness.

Embracing Bonnie Scotland at Loch Ness (

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Yes, it was glorious with a latte and a legendary Tunnock’s caramel wafer from Glasgow on the sun-dappled water. No, Nessie did not show up. I have been to Loch Ness twice now and both times she’s stood me up. Was it something I said?

Another sea day beckoned as we sailed across a boisterous North Sea towards Copenhagen, and I enjoyed a shave and face massage at the spa, modest success in the daily trivia quiz and a splendid steak dinner at the Pinnacle Grill ($46).

It was only when I was heading down the gangway at Copenhagen’s port that I realised I had not watched the news for a week. Temporary blissful ignorance of the world’s angst and some downtime with puffins, Neolithic sights, varied scenery, fine food and Big Kev the Elephant Rock was the perfect Dutch treat.

Rock the boat

Holland America prides itself on live music on board and the resident bands at the Rolling Stone Rock Room and B.B. King’s Blues Club were hitting all the right notes.

They alternate their three sets so you can drift from one to the other along with many other passengers. Rock up early if you want a seat at the front.

Delicious sushi at Tamarind restaurant on Nieuw Statendam (

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Dining at sea

Dining on board is excellent and, while the stars of the show for me were Tamarind and the Pinnacle Grill, don’t miss the Grand Dutch Cafe’s Netherlands delights such as Edam and ham toasties with curry ketchup, fries with mayo and the Bossche bol, a huge profiterole.

You’ll also be more than happy in the main Dining Room and the Lido food market buffet, while poolside New York Deli & Pizza does a fine Big Apple-style Reuben sandwich, and Canaletto delivers inspired Italian. Head to the Crow’s Nest bar and cafe for bow-view drinks and especially good flat white barista coffee.

Book the holiday

Holland America offers a seven-day voyage on Rotterdam from Reykjavík to Rotterdam from £1,584pp, departing on June 14, 2026 and calling at Heimaey, Djupivogur, Aberdeen and South Queensferry (for Edinburgh). Flights extra. hollandamerica.com

More info at visiticeland.com visitscotland.com visitdenmark.com