How to Visit Heuriger: Vienna’s Rustic Wine Taverns + Map (original) (raw)

Vienna is the only capital city in the world to produce significant quantities of wine within its city limits. The Austrian capital boasts a staggering 700 hectares of vineyards and 630 producers.

The most authentic way to experience Vienna’s wine culture is to visit a Heuriger.

A Heuriger is a rustic wine tavern where winemakers exclusively serve their own wine under a special license during the growing season. Viennese of all ages gather at these casual wine taverns to socialize in a down-to-earth setting, especially on weekends.

The German word “Heurige” means “this year,” so Heurige is a reference to both “this year’s wine” as well as the actual wine tavern.

A Heuriger is basically the public-facing branch of a winery. In Austria, wine tastings at wineries are not commonplace. So, this is how people acquaint themselves with Austrian winemakers and Austrian wines.

Kati has been visiting Heurigen her whole life. And, I quickly fell in love with Vienna’s wine taverns as soon as I moved to Austria. We hope our Heuriger guide motivates you to explore the picturesque outskirts of the city and embrace Vienna’s undeniably unique wine culture.

Buschenschank Windischbauer, Vienna Heuriger, Austria


Vienna Heurigen Map

Wine Regions

Places to Stay

Stammersdorf

Nussdorf

Grinzing

Neustift am Walde

Ottakring

Mauer


What is a Heuriger

Buschenschank Windischbauer, Vienna Heuriger, Austria

A Heuriger is a wine tavern.

In Vienna, some wine taverns are seasonal pop-ups, set directly in the vineyards. These self-service, open-air taverns serve white wine (Gruner Veltliner, Gemischter Satz, Riesling, Weißburgunder), sometimes red wine (Blauer Zweigelt, Blauer Burgunder), wine mixed with sparkling water (G’spritzter), fermented grape juice in autumn (Sturm), grape juice (Traubensaft), and water.

They usually offer a selection of cold snacks like bread layered with various spreads (e.g. Liptauer, Grammelschmalz), cold cuts, or cheese.

Other wine taverns in Vienna are permanent establishments with indoor as well as outdoor courtyard seating, which operate more like traditional restaurants. These taverns have large buffets, primarily filled with cold dishes. But, they may also serve some à la carte dishes as well.

The history of the Heuriger goes back to 1784, when Emperor Joseph II issued an ordinance that allowed everybody to sell homemade food, wine, and juice without having to apply for a permit.


Heuriger versus Buschenschank

Mayer am Pfarrplatz, Vienna, Austria

Heurigen and Buschenschänke are both wine taverns.

Buschenschänke are very similar to Heurigen, but they traditionally only serve cold foods and their opening times are far more limited.

The name “Buschenschank” refers to a “Buschen,” which is a bundle of twigs that are found at the entrance of the establishment. If the bundle is visible, it means that the Buschenschank is open and you are welcome to come in.

These wine taverns are not unique to Vienna. You’ll find them across the wine regions of Eastern Austria, especially in Lower Austria (e.g. Wachau Valley and Carnuntum), Burgenland, and Styria (e.g. South Styria).


How to Order Wine and Food at Heurigen

Sturm and Heurigen foods, Buschenschank Windischbauer, Vienna Heuriger, Austria

There’s a wide range of wine taverns in Vienna.

The taverns that are seasonally open in the vineyards are almost always self-service and cash only. You simply order your food and drinks at the stand, which might be a small hut, or a picnic table. The food and drink offerings are displayed on a chalkboard.

In a traditional Buschenschank with indoor and outdoor seating, wine is ordered at and served to the table, but food is usually self-service. Guests can select what they want to eat from a buffet, creating their own Brettljause (snack board).

There’s usually a selection of cold cuts, hard and soft cheeses, different spreads, olives and pickles, and various salads.

In a more “modern” Heuriger, a small selection of warm foods are offered.

In a restaurant-style Heuriger, there’s usually a buffet as well as a typical restaurant menu featuring Austrian specialties.


When to Visit Vienna Heurigen

Buschenschank Windischbauer, Vienna Heuriger, Austria

Heurigen are usually open between April and October during select months and select days.

Most al fresco vineyard taverns are only open on fair-weather weekends and holidays.

The best time to visit Heurigen in Vienna is in autumn (September – October) during the harvest season. This is when the colors begin to change, the daytime temperatures are most agreeable, and Sturm is available.

If you’re planning on visiting a specific Heuriger, make sure to check the establishment’s website for opening dates.

Related: Austria in Autumn


Where to Find Heurigen in Vienna: Vienna’s Wine-Growing Regions

Nussberg, Vienna Wine Region, Austria

Vienna’s wine taverns are concentrated in the outskirts of the city in the following Viennese neighborhoods (districts): Grinzing (19th District), Nussdorf (19th District), Kahlenbergerdorf (19th District), Neustift am Walde (19th District), Stammersdorf (21st District), Mauer (23th District), Oberlaa (10th District), Ottakring (16th District).

Good to Know | Many of Vienna’s official city walks lead to wine regions. For example, Stadtwanderweg 1 leads from Nussdorf to Nussberg, Stadtwanderweg 4a leads to several Ottakring wine taverns. And, Stadtwanderweg 5 leads from Stammersdorf to Bisamberg. So, it’s easy to go on culinary hikes in Vienna.


Nussdorf Heurigen

Buschenschank Windischbauer, Vienna Heuriger, Austria

We particularly like Nussdorf, because many of the seasonal taverns are located directly in the vineyards of Nussberg, the hill above Nussdorf. These charming wine stands have stellar views overlooking the city.

This Viennese wine area is easy to reach with public transit. Simply take tram line D to the end station: Beethovengang in Nussdorf.

The downside is that Nussdorf is the busiest wine region in Vienna, especially on a sunny weekend.

Keen walkers can follow the Vienna City Hiking Trail 1, which ultimately descends through the vineyards of Nussdorf (Nussberg). The route passes Buschenschank Feuerwehr Wagner (Google Maps), Mayer am Nussberg (Google Maps), and Wieninger am Nussberg (Google Maps).

On a sunny day, Mayer am Nussberg is the place to be. Overlooking rolling vineyards, this outdoor-only Heurigen feels like a classy day party. Located on the Vienna City Walk 1/Wiener Stadtwanderweg 1, you’ll see many locals stopping here to grab a bite to eat and drink before continuing their hike.

From the Nussdorf tram station, you can also walk directly to Wagnerei (Google Maps) and further up to Buschenschenkerei (Google Maps), Buschenschank Windischbauer (Google Maps), and Mischpoche im Weingarten (Google Maps).

For a more restaurant-style Heurigen, visit Mayer am Pfarrplatz (Google Maps), which has a lovely Weingarten (wine garden) draped in vines.


Stammersdorf Heurigen

Helmut Krenek, Vienna Tavern, Austria

Stammersdorf is located in the 21st district across the Danube, and it’s a great destination for exploring Vienna’s local Heuriger scene. Because this wine region is located quite far from the inner districts, the area remains largely tourist-free.

Weinhandwerk (Google Maps) is an enchanting Heuriger in Stammersdorf. With its fresh, bohemian-vibe and culinary emphasis on “wild,” it’s easy to fall in love with Weinhandwerk. Wild herbs are sourced from the winery’s organic vineyards and served in the Heuriger’s salads and small plates. The outdoor seating area, situated at the foot of their vineyard, feels more like your mom’s garden.

One of our favorite places to eat and drink in Stammersdorf is Heurigen Krenek (Google Maps), which we wrote about in our Vienna restaurant guide.


Neustift am Walde Heurigen

Neustift am Walde is located in the 19th District.

Here, you’ll find: Fuhrgassl-Huber (Google Maps), Schiefer Giebel (Google Maps), and Weingut & Heuriger Kroiss (Google Maps).

On a sunny day, Weinhof Zimmermann (Google Maps) is a lovely place to grab a bite to eat when hiking the Stadtwanderweg 2.


Ottakring Heurigen

Home to the Ottakringer Brauerei, the 16th district is mostly associated with beer. However, Ottakring also produces wine.

10er Marie (Google Maps), a Viennese institution dating back to 1740, is easy to reach with transit.

If you follow the Vienna City Walk 4a in the direction of Schloss Wilhelminenberg, it will lead to the charming Heuriger Leitner (Google Maps). Kati loved visiting this Heurigen when she was living in Hernals.


Where to Stay in Vienna

Budget | Vienna Hostel Ruthensteiner is a friendly accommodation near Vienna’s Westbahnhof train station. In addition to on-site bike rental and regular events such as barbecues and movie nights, the hostel offers a welcoming atmosphere for travelers from all over the world.

Midrange | Hotel Schani Salon is an excellent hotel located on Mariahilfer Straße, Vienna’s biggest shopping street, a few steps away from the Neubaugasse U-Bahn station (U3). We love this Vienna hotel, because of the bright, modern rooms, the friendly vibe, the communal lounge and bar, and the helpful staff. Breakfast is healthy and varied.

Luxury | Altstadt Vienna is a boutique 4-star hotel in the charming Spittelberg quarter, close to Kunsthistorisches Museum. This contemporary-art-filled hotel features uniquely designed interiors and a hidden rooftop terrace (open from March until October). A wonderful breakfast is served in the Red Salon daily. In the afternoon, complimentary tea and homemade cakes are served in front of the open fireplace.

Luxury | The Leo Grand is advantageously located in the inner district of Vienna, steps away from Peterskirche, Stephansdom, and the Graben. This top-rated hotel features luxurious rooms with romantic, pastel-colored furnishings and decor. Stay here for the unbeatable location, helpful personnel, and fairy tale vibes. Breakfast is available at an extra charge.

Luxury | The palatial Hotel Imperial harkens back to imperial times with its grand, antique-filled interiors and sumptuous rooms and suites (fit for royalty). This 5-star hotel is set on the Ringstrasse boulevard in the heart of Vienna, walking distance to the Vienna Opera House, the Kärntner Strasse shopping street, Karlskirche, and the Musikverein concert hall. This hotel features a cocktail bar in the historic Hallensalon, rooftop fitness center with a sauna, on-site restaurant (Opus) and café (Café Imperial). Breakfast available.

Look for accommodation in Vienna.


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Austria Trip Planning Essentials

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When to Visit Austria

We recommend visiting Austria between June and October for hiking and between December and March for skiing and winter adventuring.

Summer Travel | Summer in Austria

Autumn Travel | Autumn in Austria

Winter Travel | Winter in Austria, Salzburg in December, Skiing in Schladming


Getting around Austria

Austria has an excellent public transit system. We’ve used it extensively to travel throughout the country. We highly recommend using transit if you’re visiting cities (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck, Graz, etc…), and/or doing hut-to-hut hikes.

Some areas like Mayrhofen, Schladming and Lech am Arlberg have wonderful seasonal transit systems in place (e.g. summer hiking buses). However, if you’re not visiting during the high season, bus frequencies are significantly reduced and it’s far easier to get around with your own vehicle.

If you’re planning on visiting multiple destinations across Austria, we recommend renting a car.

Use these road trip itineraries for trip planning inspiration:

Start in Vienna | 2-Week Austria Road Trip

Start in Salzburg, or Munich | 1-Week Austria Road Trip

Start in Munich | 10-Day Bavarian Alps & Tyrolean Alps Road Trip

Car Rental

We recommend using the Discovercars.com car rental reservation platform to search for and book car rentals. This easy-to-use booking platform compares car rental deals from 500+ trusted providers, so that you can choose the best option for your trip.

Check car rental rates here.

If you’re driving into Austria from a neighboring country, don’t forget to purchase a vignette at/near the border.


Hiking in Austria

Where to Hike in Austria

Read Austrian Alps Hiking Destinations for an overview of where to hike in Austria, with tips on specific trails and where to stay. Also check out Best Day Hikes in Austria and these region-specific hiking guides:

Tyrol | Innsbruck Hikes and Lake Achensee Hikes

Salzburg | Salzburg Hikes and Filzmoos Hikes

Styria | Schladming Hikes

Vorarlberg | Vorarlberg Hikes and Lech am Arlberg Hikes

Lower Austria | Vienna Mountains Hikes

Hut to Hut Hiking in Austria

Austria is a premier hut-to-hut and long-distance hiking destination. The quality of the mountain huts are superb. We particularly love the high-alpine trails, which are called Höhenwege in German. We’ve summarized our favorite multi-day hikes in Trekking Austria. If you’re new to hut hiking, read this in-depth guide to Hut to Hut Hiking in Austria.


What to See & Do in Austria

1. Visit a gorge like the Liechtenstein Gorge in Salzburg, or Wolfsklamm Gorge in Tyrol.

2. Bathe in the thermal pools of an Austrian Therme like Aqua Dome in Tyrol.

3. Stay in a thermal spa hotel like Rogner Bad Blumau in Styria, EurothermenResort Bad Ischl in Upper Austria, or the Aqua Dome Hotel in Tyrol.

4. Hike to a mountain lake like Lake Lünersee in Vorarlberg, Lake Tappenkarsee in Salzburg, or Lake Drachensee in Tyrol.

5. Go Wine Tasting in South Styria.

6. Marvel at the culture, music, and architecture of Vienna.

7. Eat heartwarming mountain food in an Almhütte at Grosser Ahornboden in Tyrol, or Ursprungalm in Styria.

8. Drive the Grossglockner High Alpine Road in Hohe Tauern National Park.

9. Visit the castles, monasteries, and wine taverns of the Wachau Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

10. Watch a Krampus Run: Krampus Parade in December.


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How to Visit Heuriger: Vienna’s Rustic Wine Taverns, Austria

Moon & Honey Travel is an independent blog created by two passionate hikers. We are able to provide free content to you, because of ads and affiliate links. When you make a purchase using one of these links, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Happy travels and happy trails, Sabrina and Kati