How to Visit Val di Funes, Dolomites (+ Map & Secret Hikes) (original) (raw)

No trip to the Italian Dolomites is complete without visiting Val di Funes/Villnösstal. This beloved alpine valley is full of delightful contrasts and unbelievable allure. It’s from this vantage point that the Odle/Geisler peaks seem to have been shaped with a vengeance, destined to forever stab the sky.

Below these roaring peaks, elegant farmsteads, scenic churches, and alpine pastures beg to be photographed. Here, nature and civilization complement each other perfectly, creating a visual duet between tamed pastoral charm and unbridled beauty.

Visitors flock to Val di Funes to capture photographs of the Church of St. John of Nepomuk (St. Johann Kirche/Chiesetta di San Giovanni) in Ranui and the Santa Maddalena Church.

However, if you stay a little longer, you’ll discover some fabulous hikes in Puez-Odle/Geisler Nature Park and some of the loveliest alpine pastures in South Tyrol. Keep reading to find out how to get here, what to do, and where to stay.

Santa Maddalena, Val di Funes, Villnösstal Valley, Dolomites

Where is Val di Funes

Chiesetta di San Giovanni a Ranui / Church of St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui

Chiesetta di San Giovanni a Ranui / Church of St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui

Val di Funes/Villnösstal is located in South Tyrol in Northern Italy.

The 24-km-long valley runs from Valle Isarco/Eisacktal Valley, just north of Chiusa/Klausen and south of Bressanone/Brixen, to the Odle/Geisler mountain range.

Val di Funes enompasses the villages of Tiso/Teis, S. Pietro/St. Peter and S. Maddalena/St. Magdalena.

When to Visit Val di Funes, Italy

Summer Season: Early June until mid-October

The Val di Funes summer season kicks off as early as late May, depending on the snow conditions. And, it continues until the middle of October.

Given the valley’s popularity, we recommend visiting Villnösstal at the beginning, or end of the hiking season.

If you’re visiting Val di Funes in summer, you should also consider the pasture season, which roughly runs from mid/late June until mid-September). This is when all the animals (cows, donkeys, horses, etc…) are grazing around the huts.

If you’re visiting in mid-September, try not to miss the Almabtrieb, when the animals return to the valley in a celebratory cattle drive. We recommend contacting the tourist board directly to find out the exact dates for this event: info@villnoess.info.

Learn More: Best Time to Visit the Dolomites

Winter Season: Late December until Mid-March

The Val di Funes Alpine Pastures are also a winter destination, boasting well-tended winter hiking trails (snowshoeing) and groomed toboggan runs.

Several huts, including Kaserill Alm, open up their doors during the holidays (Christmas and Carnival) and on the weekends throughout the winter season.

Val di Funes Hotels and Apartments

Hotel Tyrol, Val di Funes, Dolomites

Hotel Tyrol, Val di Funes, Dolomites

Hotel Tyrol, Val di Funes, Dolomites

Hotel Tyrol

We recommend staying in Santa Maddalena, a small village in Val di Funes, which provides easy access to all the main destinations in the valley.

Budget | Appartements Pension Sonia is a no-frills, budget-friendly guesthouse in Santa Maddalena. Breakfast is included in the room rate.

Budget | Fallerhof is an active farm and a great-value apartment-style accommodation with stunning views of the Geisler Group. It’s a short walk to the Santa Maddalena Church (5 minutes) and the famous Chiesetta di San Giovanni in Ranui (15 minutes). Breakfast is available upon request.

Midrange | Hotel Fines is a welcoming, 3-star hotel in Santa Maddalena, owned by a young and enthusiastic team. Guests love the rich breakfast buffet, central location, and hotel restaurant. Definitely book half board (breakfast and dinner) here. The DolomitiMobil Card is free for all guests.

Midrange | Proihof is a happily-situated farm stay in Santa Maddalena offering charming alpine rooms and apartments as well as stellar views of the Odle/Geisler Group. Stay here for the dreaming surroundings, farm animals, and down-to-earth atmosphere.

Luxury | Hotel Tyrol Dolomites Slow Living is a 4-star hotel in Santa Maddalena in Val di Funes. Directly facing the Odle/Geisler Group, guests can enjoy the mountains from the hotel pool, garden lounge area, and bedroom balconies. If you stay here, make sure to book a room with a Dolomites view (“Geisler Blick”).

We loved the hotel’s location. From Hotel Tyrol, it’s a short walk to Santa Maddalena Church (10 minutes) and the Panorama Trail (20 minutes). It’s also a short walk to Ranui (Church of St. John) and a short drive to the Zannes/Zans Car Park.

After spending a long day hiking in the mountains, we were always excited to return to Hotel Tyrol for a delicious South Tyrolean dinner. Here, dishes are prepared using local and seasonal ingredients. Dinner begins with a salad buffet, followed by three courses. The dining staff is attentive and friendly, making the whole dining experience highly enjoyable.

We also loved the nutritious breakfast buffet and panoramic outdoor whirlpool (spa bag provided).

The DolomitiMobil Card is included in your stay. This gives you discounts on parking fees at Zannes/Zans and free transit on buses in South Tyrol.

Book your Stay at Hotel Tyrol.

Look for accommodation in Val di Funes.

More Places to Stay near Val di Funes

Luxury | Forestis Dolomites is an adults-only hotel near Bressanone/Brixen. This striking retreat overlooking the Geisler Peaks redefines the meaning of a 5-star hotel. Stay here for the alpine modern aesthetics, spa, slow food restaurant, and utter peace and relaxation. This hotel is not only one of the best hotels in Italy, it is one of the best hotels in the world.

Luxury | My Arbor – Plose Wellness Hotel is a 5-star hotel in S. Andrea near Bressanone/Brixen. Cloaked in woodland, this treehouse-like property offers a stunning modern spa, superb cuisine (book half board), and spacious rooms. Read our My Arbor Hotel Review.

Val di Funes Hiking Trails

Val di Funes harbors many fabulous hikes ranging from virtually unknown to extremely popular. Most hikes begin at the Zannes/Zans trailhead, which serves as a gateway to the Puez-Odle Nature Park.

1. Adolf Munkel Trail

Adolf Munkel Trail, Val di Funes, Dolomites

The Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle / Sentiero delle Odle) is a hiking path, which runs along the base of the Geisler/Odle Peaks. There are several ways to hike this trail, with the most popular variation starting in Zannes/Zans.

The highlight of this Val di Funes hike is the views of the Odle/Geisler Group from Malga Casanago/Gschnagenhardt Alm and Rifugio Odle/Geisler Alm. From these alpine pasture huts, the contrast between the velvet-like green meadows and the jagged limestone peaks is sublime.

For the best light, hike the Adolf Munkel Trail in the late afternoon.

Trail Stats

Trailhead | Zannes/Zans in Val di Funes, South Tyrol

Distance | 9.2 km circuit

Time Needed | 3 – 3:30 hours

Elevation Gain/Loss | 378 meters

Difficulty | Easy – Moderate

Learn More: Adolf Munkel Trail Hiking Guide

2. Rifugio Genova Circuit Hike

Rifugio Genova hike, Puez-Odle Nature Park, Dolomites

Rifugio Genova/Schlütterhütte is a mountain hut in Val di Funes dating back to 1898.

If you’re eager to explore Val di Funes’ lesser-known alpine pastures and trails, this loop trail is an absolute must.

You’ll be treated to thrilling viewpoints of the Odle/Geisler Group, Puez Peaks, Mount Fanes, Val Badia, Sass de Putia/Peitlerkofel, and Odle di Eores/Aferer Geisler.

Starting at the Zannes trailhead, the trail steadily rises to Kreuzjoch saddle (2 hours). The way continues east along the Alta Via 2, high above the upper reaches of Longiarú Valley, a side valley of Val Badia.

Following narrow paths, the trail angles down to Rifugio Genova and then across rolling pastures back down to Zannes.

Trail Stats

Trailhead | Zannes/Zans in Val di Funes, South Tyrol, Italy

Distance | 11 km circuit

Time Needed | 4:30 hours

Elevation Gain/Loss | 738 meters

Difficulty | Moderate

Learn More: Rifugio Genova Circuit Day Hike

3. Santa Maddalena Sunnseitnweg and Panoramaweg

Santa Maddalena, Val di Funes

The Panoramaweg (Panorama Trail) and Sunnseitnweg (Sunny-side Trail) are two pathways in Val di Funes, which when linked together creates a lovely circuit hike filled with romantic views of the valley. The trail starts in Santa Maddalena village and ascends to Santa Maddalena Church (10 minutes).

From the historic stone church, you’ll hike along roads and across meadows and forests. Throughout the circuit, there are fantastic views of the Santa Maddalena Church, Santa Maddalena Village, Val di Funes, and the Odle Peaks.

Trail Stats

Trailhead | Santa Maddalena Village, Val di Funes, South Tyrol

Distance | 9.5 km circuit

Time Needed | 3:30 hours

Elevation Gain/Loss | 380 meters

Difficulty | Easy

Learn more: Santa Maddalena Panorama Trail

4. Tullen Summit

Tullen hike, Val di Funes, Dolomites

Tullen (2653 m) is the highest summit in the Odle d’Eores/Aferer Geisler Group.

The best way to ascend to Tullen is from the Zannes/Zans car park. You’ll follow trail 25 and later the fantastic Oberer Herrensteig (“Upper Men’s Trail”) and eventually the Günther Messner Steig to Tullen peak.

WE LOVED THIS TRAIL! It offers peace and quiet along an interesting path, which delivers unforgettable views of the Odle Peaks, bizarre Odle d’Eores pinnacles, and Sass de Putia.

This trail is one of the best kept secrets in Val di Funes.

Trail Stats

Trailhead | Zannes/Zans Car Park in Val di Funes

Distance | 12.6 km out-and-back

Time Needed | 7 hours

Elevation Gain/Loss | 1095 meters

Difficulty | Moderately Difficult

Learn more: Tullen Summit Hike

5. Resciesa Plateau to Malga Brogles

Resciesa Plateau, Ortisei, Val Gardena

If you’re based in Val Gardena/Grödnertal, you can skip the drive to Val di Funes, and hike there instead. A really fun approach to Val di Funes is from the Resciesa Plateau.

From Ortisei/St. Ulrich, take the Resciesa funicular up to the plateau. You’ll cross Resciesa along a very easy trail and slowly descend to Malga Brogles, one of the alpine pasture huts in Val di Funes/Villnöss Valley.

From Rifugio Malga Brogles, you have several options.

The easiest option is to return along the same route and descend back to Ortisei via the Resciesa funicular. A more interesting option is to backtrack a few meters up to Passo di Brogles/Brogles Sattel (2219 m) and then descend along trail 5 down Val d’Anna all the way back to Ortisei.

The best, albeit the most difficult option, is to follow the Adolf Munkel Trail and then cross the Odle/Geisler Group via Furcela de Mesdi/Mittagsscharte (2597 m, difficult). After the crossing, you can continue to Seceda, and descend to Ortisei via the Seceda Cableways.

Learn More: Resciesa and Malga Brogles Day Hike

The Famous Churches of Val di Funes

Santa Maddalena, Val di Funes, Dolomites

Santa Maddalena Church

Church of St. Magdalena

Church of St. Magdalena (Kirche zur Heiligen Magdalena in German, La Chiesa di S. Maddalena in Italian) is located above the village of Santa Maddalena at an elevation of 1394 meters. This historic stone church dates back to the 14th century. However, its location has been a place of pagan worship and sacrifice since prehistoric times.

The church is only accessible by foot. Either park in the village, or at your hotel in Santa Maddalena.

After parking, head in the direction of Hotel Tyrol along the Kirchweg (“church path”) street. Hotel Tyrol has a striking, alpine modern facade – it’s easy to spot. Continue uphill to the Fallerhof Farm. As you ascend, the church is already visible ahead.

At Fallerhof Farm, turn left (trail 26/Kirchweg), passing in front of a large modern barn, home to dairy cows, and an enclosure of birds (chickens, ducks, and turkeys).

After a few meters, the trail veers right and uphill. This pathway leads directly to the Santa Maddalena Church. The church is open and free to enter.

After visiting the church, we recommend hiking to the famous viewpoint and following the Panoramaweg trail. Read our St. Maddalena Panorama Trail Guide for a trail description and map.

Church of St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui

Chiesetta di San Giovanni a Ranui / Church of St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui

Chiesetta di San Giovanni a Ranui / Kirchlein zum hl. Johannes Nepomuk in Ranui

The small church of St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui (Kirchlein St. Johann in Ranui in German, Chiesetta di San Giovanni a Ranui in Italian) is a small chapel set amidst a sea of meadows. With its copper-domed bell tower and frescoed facade, the tiny church of Ranui is instantly recognizable.

Due to disrespectful trespassing and bad behavior (e.g. trampling meadows/flying drones illegally), St. John is no longer freely accessible.

The church and surrounding meadows are enclosed by a large fence. There is a viewing platform along the St. Johann/San Giovanni road, where you can take a photo.

Exact Location: Google Maps

If you want to visit the chapel, head up the road to the Ranuihof Farm. There is a gated entry point, where you have to purchase a ticket in order to enter.

Villnöss Valley Alpine Pasture Huts

Hiking in Val di Funes, Dolomites, Italy

Geisleralm

During your visit to Val di Funes, we suggest carving out ample time to eat a traditional South Tyrolean lunch in an alpine pasture hut (“Alm” in German, “Malga” in Italian). Try the Schlutzkrapfen (similar to ravioli) and Knödel (dumplings).

The Villnöss Alpine Pastures delight with their scenic locations, heartwarming food, and hospitality.

Most huts are open from late May until mid-October. However, these times will vary each year, depending on the snow conditions.

You can learn more about alpine transhumance and alpine pasture huts in our guide to visiting the Alps in Summer.

Here’s an overview of all the Val di Funes alpine pasture huts.

Zanser Schwaige

Zanser Schwaige (1685 m) is located very close to the Zannes Car Park, just past the Sass Rigais Pension. No hiking required.

Summer Opening Times: Beginning of May until the end of October.

Winter Opening Times: Christmas until mid-March (closed Wednesdays and Thursdays after the first week of January).

Location: Google Maps

Dusler Alm

Dusler Alm (1782 m) is located close to the Puez-Odle Nature Park boundary. From the Zannes Car Park, hike along trail 36 for 40 minutes to get to the hut.

Summer Opening Times: Late May until mid-October.

Winter Opening Times: Closed

Recommended Hike: Adolf Munkel Trail

Location: Google Maps

Geisleralm

Geisleralm (1996 m, Rifugio Odle) is located just outside Puez-Odle Nature Park. From the Zannes Car Park, hike along trail 6 and 35, or trail 36 (via Dusler Alm) to get to Geisler Alm.

Summer Opening Times: Late May until early November.

Winter Opening Times: Late December until mid-March.

Recommended Hike: Adolf Munkel Trail

Insider Tip: There’s a 6-km-long sled track, starting at Geisleralm and ending in Ranui in Val di Funes. You can rent slays directly at the hut.

Location: Google Maps

Gschnagenhardt Alm

Gschnagenhardt Alm (Malga Casnago) is located a few meters from the Puez-Odle Nature Park boundary at an elevation of 2006 meters. Starting at the Zannes Car Park, hike along trail 6 and 35, or trail 36 (via Dusler Alm) to get to this Alm.

Summer Opening Times: End of May until the end of October.

Winter Opening Times: Closed

Recommended Hike: Adolf Munkel Trail

Insider Tip: Visit Gschnagenhardt Alm in the late afternoon for the best light and enjoy their outdoor lounge chairs.

Location: Google Maps

Gampen Alm

Gampen Alm (2062 m) is accessible by foot from the Zannes parking lot in 1:15 hours. You can hike here via trail 6 followed by trail 35, or via trail 33.

Summer Opening Times: End of May until beginning of November.

Winter Opening Times: Late December until mid-March (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays after the first week of January)

Recommended Hike: Rifugio Genova and Gampen Alm Circuit Hike

Location: Google Maps

Glatsch Alm

Glatsch Alm (1902 m) is located in Puez-Odle Nature Park. Starting at Zanser Alm, hike along trail 36 for 35 minutes to get to Glatsch Alm.

Summer Opening Times: Mid-May until mid-October, Wednesdays through Sundays.

Winter Opening Times: Closed

Location:Google Maps

Kaserill Alm

Kaserill Alm (1920 m) is a 45-minute walk along trail 33 and 32 from the Zannes Car Park.

Summer Opening Times: Early June until mid-October.

Winter Opening Times: Late December through the first week of January, Fasching (Carnival) week, and Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, until mid-March.

Fun Fact: Kaserill Alm produces their own cheese and dairy products in their on-site dairy.

Location: Google Maps

Rifugio Malga Brogles

Rifugio Malga Brogles (2045 m, German: Brogleshütte) is located along the Adolf Munkel Trail in Puez-Odle Nature Park. You can hike here from the Ranui car park along trail 28 (shortest way), or from the Zannes/Zans trailhead.

Summer Opening Times: Mid-June until Mid-October.

Winter Opening Times: Closed

Recommended Hike: Resciesa to Rifugio Brogles

Location: Google Maps

More Places to Visit around Val di Funes

Passo delle Erbe

Passo delle Erbe, Sass de Putia, Dolomites

Passo delle Erbe (Würzjoch in German) is a dramatic mountain pass that connects Valle di Eores/Aferer Tal with Val Badia.

The solitary, two-headed Sass de Putia/Peitlerkofel mountain stands just south of Passo delle Erbe.

While staying in Val di Funes, we highly recommend taking a half-day trip to Passo delle Erbe to hike the Sass de Putia circuit trail. This wonderful hike loops around Sass de Putia in 4 hours. You can also summit Sass de Putia. The final stretch is a Sentiero Attrezzato, a secured hiking trail.

From Santa Maddalena, it’s a 30 minute drive to Passo delle Erbe.

Insider Tip | You can stay directly at Passo delle Erbe is the upscale refuge Ütia de Börz.

How to Get to Val di Funes

– car, bus, foot –

Santa Maddalena, Val di Funes, Dolomites

Driving to Val di Funes

Val di Funes is a short drive away from Bolzano/Bozen (45 minutes), Ortisei/St. Ulrich (40-50 minutes), and Bressanone/Brixen (25 Minutes).

From Bolzano, the fastest approach is via the Autostrada A22. Motorway toll fees apply.

From Ortisei, you can drive to Val di Funes via the SS242d, avoiding toll fees. And from Brixen, you can also avoid the Autostrada, by driving along Via Statale 12 (SS12).

Parking in Val di Funes

There are several pay-and-display car parks in Val di Funes, including the Zannes Car Park, Ranui Car Park, Ranui Turning Point Car Park, and the Putzen Car Park. Leave the parking ticket on the dashboard of your vehicle. The parking fees are used exclusively for the maintenance of the Val di Funes hiking trails.

Camping and car camping are strictly prohibited in all of these car parks.

Bring cash.

Zannes Car Park | Google Maps

The Zans Car Park (1680 m) is the largest parking area in Val di Funes with a capacity of 400 cars. Though likely not a necessity, you can pre-book your parking on villnoess.com.

Ranui Car Park | Google Maps

Ranui Turning Point Car Park | Google Maps

Putzen Car Park | Google Maps

Berger Square, Santa Maddalena | Google Maps

Filler Car Park, Santa Maddalena | Google Maps

Public Transit to Val di Funes

Use the journey planner on Suedtirolmobil.info and villnoess.com to find the best transit connections to Val di Funes.

Bolzano to Val di Funes

Take a train from Bolzano/Bozen Train Station to Bressanone/Brixen (30 min). At the Bressanone/Brixen Train Station, hop on bus 330 to St. Magdalena (Bus stop: Vergin) in Val di Funes (30 minutes).

Total Transit Time | 1 – 1:40 hours

Cost | 9.50 EUR

Val Gardena to Val di Funes

In Ortisei/St. Ulrich (bus stop: Piazza S. Antonio), get on bus 360 (direction: Bressanone/Brixen). In Klamm, change to bus 330 (direction: Bressanone/Brixen) to St. Magdalena in Val di Funes (Bus stop: Vergin).

Total Transit Time | 1:40 hours

Cost | 6 EUR

Bressanone to Val di Funes

Take bus 330 from the Train Station in Bressanone to St. Magdalena in Val di Funes (Bus stop: Vergin).

Total Transit Time | 35 minutes

Cost | 3.50 EUR

Walking to Val di Funes from Val Gardena

Malga Brogles, Odle Mountains, Val di Funes, Puez-Odle Nature Park

Hiking to Malga Brogles from Resciesa Plateau

Another option for visiting Val di Funes is to arrive on foot.

If you’re staying in Val Gardena, head to the village of Ortisei and take the Resciesa funicular up to the Resciesa Plateau.

From the mountain station, it’s an easy 4.8 km walk to Malga Brogles in Val di Funes. Follow trails 31 and later 35 in the direction of Passo di Brogles/Brogles Sattel. The walk takes 1:25 hours one-way.

From Malga Brogles, you can continue along the Adolf Munkel Trail and detour to Geisler Alm, you can return to Passo di Brogles and descend Val d’Anna to Ortisei, or you can complete this Resciesa-Seceda hike.

GET YOUR FREE EBOOK

Signup for our newsletter to get our guide to “Secret Hiking Destinations in Europe.”

Dolomites Trip Planning Essentials

Use our Dolomites Travel Guide to plan an unforgettable trip to Northern Italy.

When to Visit the Dolomites

Winter Season. For skiing and winter activities, the best time to visit is between mid/late December and March. To find out what to see and do during the festive advent season, read Dolomites in December.

Summer and Fall Seasons. The best time to road trip and hike in the Dolomites is between mid-June and mid-September. If the weather is stable, the hiking season can easily continue until late October.

How to Get to the Dolomites

Read How to Get to the Dolomites to find out how to travel to the Dolomites from the closest airports, train stations, and bus terminals.

If you’re traveling without a car, also check out How to Visit the Dolomites Without a Car.

Car Rental

The easiest way to travel between hiking destinations in the Italian Dolomites is with your own car. Check out our itineraries for trip inspiration:

We recommend using the Discovercars.com car rental reservation platform to search for and book car rentals. This easy-to-use booking platform compares car rental deals from 500+ trusted providers, so that you can choose the best option for your trip.

Tip: If you can only drive automatic transmission cars, as opposed to manual transmission cars (stick shift), book your car rental as early as possible.

Check car rental rates here.

Best Places to Stay

Figuring out where to stay in the Dolomites is probably the biggest hurdle to planning a trip to the Dolomites. We’ve created three guides to help you decide where to stay:

We suggest choosing 2-4 bases for your Dolomites trip and spending 2-4 nights in each base.

What to See & Do

During your trip to the Dolomites, you can go via ferrata climbing, culinary hiking, hut to hut hiking, cycling, paragliding, and so much more. We’ve highlighted our favorite experiences in Best Things to Do in the Dolomites.

Wherever you decide to stay, you’ll be surrounded by glorious mountain scenery and incredible natural landmarks.

In Best Places to Visit in the Dolomites, we’ve outlined the most iconic attractions as well as lesser-known destinations across the Dolomites, including Alpe di Siusi, Lago di Braies, and Lago di Sorapis.

Dolomites Packing List

Hiking Gear

Outdoor Photography Gear

Dolomites Hiking Guides

Hiking in the Dolomites is our passion. Year after year, we love discovering new trails and expanding our knowledge of the area. For day hiking, check out Best Day Hikes in the Dolomites. For trekking, take a look at our guide to Hut to Hut Hiking in the Dolomites and Alta Via 1.

For region-specific hiking trails, check out:

Recommended Hiking Guidebook: Shorter Walks in the Dolomites (Cicerone Guide)

Val di Funes Travel Guide, Italian Dolomites

This post may contain affiliate links.