Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost (original) (raw)
Overview
Innominata ( No name peak ) is a beautiful and elegant rock tower of the Jof Fuart/Jof di Montasio group and is located between Torre della Madre dei Camosci ( 2503 m ) and Cima di Riofreddo ( 2507 m ) in that eastern ridge that goes from Jof Fuart ( 2666 m ) to Forcella di Riofreddo ( 2240 m ). Its rock, like others of this group, is composed mainly by dolomia principale and Dachstein limestone originated in the lagoons of the Triassic age.
The famous pioneer of the Julian Alps, Julius Kugy, first named it Kleinspitz ( little peak ) but later changed his mind and gave it this beautiful name, Innominata, remembering a trip in the Monte Bianco group. The passage trough Innominata of the Via ferrata "Anita Goitan" ( for details see Cima di Riofreddo page ) it's one of the most spectacular of all the Julian Alps and is a perfect example of that poetry mixed with mountaineering that Kugy was looking for.
The climb trough the north-east gorge of Innominata was the first exploit of a very famous italian climber from Trieste, Emilio Comici. That climb, in 1927, was the first one in the steep north faces of the Jof Fuart group. Then he became famous in all the world for his incredible climb of the north face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in 1933. He was also the one who realized the dream of Kugy of a route all around the ledges of the Jof Fuart group, the "eternal way".
From the top of this sharp peak you can enjoy a wonderful view of Val Saisera, the Slovenian Julian Alps and of the whole Canin group.
First ascent: G.Leuchs and A.Schulze, august 10, 1906.
Getting There
South faces of Innominata and Cima di Riofreddo
For general orientation see Jof Fuart/Jof di Montasio group or Julian Alps
For the southern ascents the best way is to reach Rifugio Corsi from Sella Nevea ( marked path n°625 ) or from Val Rio del Lago ( with the marked path n°628 or with the beautiful " sentiero Re di Sassonia " n°650/629 ).
For northern ascents ( only for experts! ) you can reach Rifugio Pellarini from Malga Saisera ( Valbruna ) with marked path n°616.
There are several other options to reach Rifugio Corsi ( from the Montasio plateau, from Spragna, from Riobianco valley... ) but they are much longer and require a 2 day trip.
Red Tape
No limitations.
Routes overview
Ago dei Camosci and Innominata
Normal route: Once reached Rifugio Corsi from one of the paths explained above take the marked path n°627 to Forcella di Riofreddo and then follow the indications on the left for the via ferrata " Anita Goitan ". With the ferrata you can reach almost the top of the tower, then you have to climb 50 meters or so ( UIAA II+ ).
Climbing routes: from south-east: UIAA II with one passage of III
from south: 350 m of UIAA III and IV
from west: 350 m of UIAA III
from the north-east gorge ( Via Comici ): 400 m of IV+ and V
Accomodation
Innominata and Rifugio Corsi
Rifugio Corsi
Rifugio Pellarini
Bivacco Brunner ( Riobianco valley )
Bivacco Gorizia ( Riobianco valley )
Bivacco Mazzeni ( Alta Spragna )
Maps
Canin group
Tabacco n°019 Alpi Giulie Occidentali
1:25000
When to Climb
Best season is from late spring to early winter, dipending of the snow conditions.
For the wheather forecast see Meteo FVG