Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost (original) (raw)
Overview
This is a wonderful connection of two mountain huts in Triglav Group - Zasavska koča (hut) na Prehodavcih and Dolič hut. In contrast to the normal, quite long hike by the southern side, this route crosses the northern system of Kanjavec ledges. The NW and N face of Kanjavec is one of the highest walls in Julian Alps. Even if it's so mighty, on approximately 2/3 of its height a system of ledges crosses it horizontally. The route can be done in either direction.
Grading the Route (by Hiking Standards)
0. General. Marked ferrata, not hard, but exposed on many places. Take care in early summer, when in some ravines there can be snow. From 2071 m to 2152 m. Exposition of slopes is towards the NW and N.
1. Effort. 300 m, 2 h 30 min.
2. Power. 2 - easy.
3. Psyche. 3 - medium.
4. Orientation. 2 - easy.
Approach
Here I shall describe the route in the direction from Prehodavci to Dolič. See the parent page of Kanjavec how to get to Prehodavci and where to continu from Dolič (or vice cersa)!
The NW face of Kanjavec - on the right is the summit of Vrsac.
Route Description
Towards Vršac
From Prehodavci, we descend towards the E, cross the S slopes of Vršac and through the ravine between Vršac and Kanjavec ascend to the notch, E of Vršac's summit (it's only a short climb from here to its top, UIAA I.).
Beyond the notch we descend a little into a scree-filled basin, cross it and on the other side enter on a system of ledges which cut the whole N face of Kanjavec. Immediately we are above abysses, but the path is well marked and protected. From time to time we switch the ledge (up or down), cross some ravines and finally exit on a broad balcony and down into a scree-filled valley below the Dolič Pass. Then in a few turns up to the hut.