Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost (original) (raw)
Approach
Get to the Stuedl hut (see Main Page) and sleep there if you are not a first class sportsman to do it in one day from the valley.
A small zig-zag path leads with 200 m ascent to the beginning of the Teischnitz Kees. Follow the glacier on the west side of the horizontal ridge of the "Luisengrat" that separates Teischnitzkees and Koednitz Kees. There are some crevasses so you should use the rope.
The Luisenscharte (3175 m) is the beginning of the Stuedlgrat, But it is easier to climb left of the ridge about 100 m before following the bolts to the top of the ridge.
Route Description
The route follows mainly the ridge and should be easy to find because there are bolts and sometimes iron stifts.
Important Sections are:
- the breakfast place
- a dihedral (german: Verschneidung)
- a short passage on the west side on the ridge
- the "Kanzel" (pulpit), the most exposed section
- the "Rote Fleck" (red spot), most dificult part (IV) but there is mostly a little cord and after the most difficult move a cable makes it easy
Descent:
on the normal Route to the Erzherzog Johann hut. Staying the night there would be a great experience, but perhaps it is a better idea to descend back to the Stuedl hut, so that you don't have to carry overnight equipment in your rucksack
Topo
here on the website www.bergsteigen.com you can find a topo of the climb
Essential Gear
Rope, helmet, a few quickdraws and loops of webbing
There are bolts for belay stations and at the most difficult parts two cables habe been installed.
For descent: ice axe, crampons, a ice screw
Best time
From July to September as long as there is no new snow on the rocks. The descent is more difficult then because of pure ice at the Glocknerleitl.
If you can cope with some snow in the route reports show that in autumn (up to the end of October) often there are good condition - and the mountain is less crowded then.
At such a popular route it is always advisable to avoid the weekends.
history
1st ascent by Josef Kehrer and Peter Groder (September 10th 1864) with help from Thomas and Michael Groder decending from the summit (so not an ascent "by fair means" in nowerdays attitude). Reason for exploring the route was the effort of the mountain guides from Kals to find an easy route direct from their village to the the summit so that tourists should not go to Heiligenblut but to Kals. So in these times there was really a match between the villages about the benefits from the tourists. Therefore in the following years cables were installed at the Stuedl ridge so it was almost a "via ferrata". But in the following years the cables went to ruin so the Stuedlgrat is again really a climbing route.
The name of the ridge and of the hut is a honor for Johann Stuedl, a buisiness man from Prague, who was a "sponsor" of the people of Kals and inventor of the mountain guides of Kals. He also was one of the founders of the german alpine club.
Books / Links
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.